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JNSD1

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About JNSD1

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  • Birthday 03/08/1976

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    https://www.instagram.com/tamiya1976/

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    Melbourne, Australia

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  1. I got 3mm chrome led holders. They work perfect if you need. Just drill the front bumper.
  2. I can tell you my re-re Kyosho Javelin is incredible. The build quality is better than Tamiya and it's bulletproof. Can't recommend highly enough.
  3. Hey Ray, welcome to one of the better RC forums in the world. You'll get a lot of VERY experienced guys and gals around here, many of us much like you have been into this stuff on and off for 30+ years (I've been in the hobby since the golden 80's as well). Well I can say that firstly the Grand Hauler is an absolute beaut. I just built one (still going) as you can see in my detailed thread on here. I used the MFC-03 as I got this just as we went into COVID lockdown and stock of everything was sold out. To be honest I can't tell any difference at all, no comparison of course but meh... From what I gather in lots of reading the MFC-03 is a new model as well and has better functionality. But in reality they're both amazing, the issue of course is the programming! If you go down the path of the TGY-06 my thread will help and also there is a YouTube on how to program it.
  4. No a silly question at all. I did just wire the LED's into the existing MFC-03 unit without any thought to drivers or amp draw. Now that you've mentioned it you may well be right! I was actually pretty disappointed and also surprised that they wern't far better, but this may be the reason. I think I want to have them on a separate power supplly and switch them from the transmitter with a manual switch, that would fix it. Just got to find the motivation to finish it all off now, got all the bits basically, just lacking the inspiration!
  5. UPDATES! Dual tanks are IN!!!! They make a MASSIVE difference to the look of the rig. I also worked out more and more details. It's a classic case of "until you actually do it, you don't know". So, for those who are coming here from the future to do this and can use my pain and frustration to their advantage: 20x20x1.6mm aluminium channel is "basically" perfect. By basically I mean that the actual frame of the truck is a little bit bigger, like maybe 1mm. So while that's close enough, what I learnt the hard way was that if you screw down the fuel tanks from the bottom first, leaving the small 1mm gap at the top then screw the top down, it snaps that plastic!!!! Yep, boy I was not happy. Mine just cracked but I caught it before it was totally written off. Screw down from the top first then the bottom snug it up. Don't go too hard. OR do what I should have done and shim it. Use an M3 tap to make the holes. It's perfect for the Tamiya screws. The channel runs the whole length from the front wheel to the back fender. I used primer then Tamiya Matt Black. It's marginally off, to the anal retentive should have used semi-gloss probably. It's a little light the matt... The photos make it look worse than IRL. Hard to pick IRL. Now the interesting part - You can't keep the exhaust stacks the way they come stock. You have to cut the plastic housing at the part at the bottom where the stainless pipe hits and "flip" that bit around. I've tried to glue them twice now with 2 part epoxy but both times haven't gotten it right as you have to have them aligned perfectly so that when the pipe is in place it's seamless. I have to work out a method to get it correct. I'll update when I nail that! I messed up the holes a few times. Also, every time I take a photo of this truck outside in good light I cringe about the orange peel. I'm so *******ed off about it.
  6. Yeah I know, digging up a DECADE old thread. Just can't seem to get the answer anywhere - SO, did anyone ever find a simple CVD for Hotshot re-re? I have lost a front dogbone and want to upgrade (well, I want to upgrade the whole terrible steering, but one thing at a time). Out of all the threads with so much ambiguity and no solid answers, this seemed like the most detailed. So here we are. Anyone can share with me what they have put in their Hotshot as far as upgrade CVD's go?
  7. Bunnings actually has an awesome selection, can't believe it! The measurments of the frame channel is 20x7mm - my thinking is that would be about right, however Bunnings was out of the 20x20mm aluminium channel so got the 16x16x1.6 - will see how it looks.
  8. Thanks for the advice Mad Ax, will have a hunt. I now have the second fuel tanks on order so want to progress it all. Just received my package from Model Lighting Co in the UK and I've had a total brain fart and ordered 2xCB radios and left the fibre optic dash lights out of the order. badword. Had to order them and will have to wait another 4-weeks. GOD DAM.
  9. Ok - I'M BACK! Have been again SLOWLY progressing, but it's a balancing act of when I get parts, motivation and time! (As we ALL know in this hobby). Anyhow, the main thing I got was the tyre stickers from my mate who used the thinnest vinyl he had, I'm really happy with them. I made them in Adobe Illustrator myself and then got them done. Adds a LOT to the overall look. You can REALLY see the orange peel in the sun in this pic Onto the 3mm Chrome LED Bezels that came from eBay. (also got 5mm and they're way too big FYI). Had to do some modding, used the Dremel (carefully). Had to mod the housing and the truck frame. And FINALLY I've actually worked out how Yamato did the double fuel tanks! Can not BELIEVE it took me this long to work it out, I guess these things sometimes just take time and getting used to the truck. So when I looked at the photos I can see now that it looks like he's used either metal or plastic channel to attach the tanks to the frame. I never realised until yesterday that one of the reason that the truck looks so badass is because it looks lowered! This process lowers the tanks and allows the extra tank to mount right up to the step so you can fit two in there. It ALSO moves the tanks out wider so it looks tougher! Now, question is, what do you think he used? If it is metal channel where would I get some!!!???
  10. I've never seen that truck from them! Totally different version to the exhausts I have pictured. You can fit two of the actual kit fuel tanks, but that's why you have to move the vertical exhaust stacks up and the first tank forward.
  11. Yep they all flicker and then get solid like full size LED's. It's been interesting to see the differences int he lights. I think the Japanese Nichia would. be the best if the beam width wasn't 70 degrees. I might get some more, but I'm definitely running out of steam for it all. I need to get to the big jobs first. On the main list is: Scale chequer plate or stainless plate with small holes in it for the rear of the truck. Critical for the look of it. Front hood ornament. While it's going to cost an arm and a leg I feel like it's important for the overall effect. Tyre stickers Second fuel tank - this one might never happen as I don't know how Yamato changed the exhaust stacks to not go down so low... If I can pull it off though it looks sooooo good. Mirror antennas Extra LED's in the headlights and possibly the front bumper bar Fibre optics in the interior dash (they're on their way but it will take a lot of work to make the interior look awesome)
  12. Well more has been done, but I'm at the stage where it all feels very slow and tedious. Always the way when you get to the interior and the finer things like wiring. The big test today was seeing if the Cree 5mm LED's or the Nichia NSDW570GS-K1-B-P9-P11 5mm as I was convinced that you would be able to get far better and brighter LED's for the headlights. The Nichia were supposed to pump out 28 lumens! Anyhow, lots of soldering and testing and I tried to capture it on video and photo for all to see and learn. Summary? Tamiya LED's are very good! Good for all of you who would never bother to try anything else, bad for me as it was a huge waste of time! I should however state for the record that the Cree LED's are far better and brighter as headlights/spotlights and you can clearly see that in the video. The colour is a bit more yellow than the Tamiya and Nichia, but when you mount them back into the headlight casings the Tamiya almost look better... Almost. After all this messing around I've decided to keep the Tamiya as the main headlights and put the crees as Fog Lamps when I mount the extra lights (when I hunt down 5mm chrome housings). THe Nichia are nice, but I think it's because they're wide not focused (hence the 70 deg on the packaging). Below is them out o the housings. Nichia on the left and the wide beam. Cree on the right and the clear spotlight winner. Below I have the Cree 5mm LED ont he left hand side Vs the stock Tamiya MFU-03 5mm LED on the right. Depends on what look you want. The more yellow is the Cree. It's more of a beam and brighter. Finally I tried the Nichia on the left and the Tamiya on the right. Pretty close you wouldn't bother. Cree on left, Tamiya on right. Nichia on left, Tamiya on right. Decided to go a deep red interior. Primed them, hit them with matt black then Italian Red (all Tamiya rattle cans). Pretty happy with the colour. Then decided that I have to do a roof and have interior lighting (dome light) so made some styrene inserts and sprayed red as well. Will have to get a 5mm or 3mm LED and dip it in either multiple translucent red paint or something else to dim it. If I had it as a straight 5mm white LED in the roof it would make the interior far to bright. It almost got me thinking to make the roof red felt and really take it up a notch. Just can't justify any more right now. You never know though. This is the issue/joy of trucks I am learning, they are SO MUCH more ready to modify than anything else.
  13. Found that trailer on like Aliexpress for about $3,500AUD!!!!!!
  14. That’s the next thing I have to work out, what trailer! Man they’re expensive. I feel like a low boy looks probably best. Finding a reasonably priced one though!
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