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About wtcc5

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  • Birthday 11/24/1978

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    Tamiya cars of my youth (the nineties) and overkill ultra performance conversions for 6€ chassis xD

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  1. @ThunderDragonCy: These are Awesomatix P02. You can also use Awesomatix SPR08 or BDL.
  2. @ruebiracer: Thank you! Regarding TOC: @Quincy will even attend the race in Potsdam (near Berlin). I haven't decided yet, but hope to have the car ready in July. Right now some things happen simultaneously. 1. I am working out more details: Especially the front extensions change a lot. One change was made to support the "soft" arm in stiffness, but recent changes happened regarding the length. The Tamiya 2wd Buggy front wheels come with different offset. I would like to stay in the 250mm width-window. The change of the wheels can increase the width by 10mm. Something I don't want, so more measuring and research needs to be done. I ordered a set of TRF201 wheels (24mm width) to see if these will fit within my parameters and/or have similarities with the 20mm wheels of the Fox. Then I drew the parts for the low-grip-version. Here the gearbox moves 16mm rearwards. Suddenly all the shaft and turnbuckle angles look so much better: I still have one collision with the rear arm extension... 2. OEM parts are ordered and arrive day for day. It is mostly simple hardware like turnbuckles, but also AE B4 spring sets to have enough freedom for the upcoming setups. Then I started to build the front suspension with the TRF201 hub and find it very elegant. Very hard to reduce weight and complexity any more with this design: 3. Before ordering the carbon plates, I want to make sure the design is flawless. At the moment the printer manufactures the custom suspension parts. Tomorrow it will make mock ups of the carbon plates to prove the gearbox section in particular.
  3. Thanks for the story! Always interesting how life changes and opens new "doors" after closing one. I for myself didn't have a dark phase. I forgot the hobby for about eight years while being in the army and then at the university. I remembered it during the economic crisis (2008-2010) when I was afraid to lose my job, the company barely survived these years. I revived my RC10T2 and did some parking lot racing with the interns at that time. That brought me back and after I changed jobs, it really started with regional touring car racing. I took that serious until 2015 when I bought a Superbike and suddenly lost all R/C motivation. Not for long though. It all came back slowly in the years after and got rampant during COVID lockdown with my FF-01 period. It was then when the collection grew from about five cars to +100 now...
  4. Great work so far! Love your „I find a way to make it happen.“ attitude!
  5. Thank you, guys! This time I put a lot of work into drawing the standard parts to make sure everything fits well into the limited space. @BuggyDad: I placed the whole unit 5mm lower and then rotated the gearbox nine degrees. The center of the rotation was the differential as it limits how deep I can put the front part of the gear housing. The motor sits 10mm lower than before. Yes, a low c.o.g. was my goal for the upcoming astro turf high grip tracks. This should increase the agility by a recognizeable amount. This design also allows me to place the gearbox were I want. I will make a design for low grip with the motor hanging out a further for increased traction.
  6. I pushed a lot of hours into CAD recently. After the Kinzigtal race I had some issues to address and creativity took over from that moment, which caused me overthinking the whole concept (instead of just solving the problems thanks brain). The result can be seen in the pictures... The front and rear changed a lot. With the first view maybe the top deck or the front arm extensions and/or hubs will be very recognizable. For me these are the minor (simple) changes. In front the new steering rack is very good hidden and in the rear the environment around the gearbox changed drastically. Let's start with the rear, as it was the reason I did all that . After the disassembly I found the high position of the motor unacceptable. Well, with the gearbox housing as it is, you can do nothing better right? I wished I could attach it angled, but found no Idea of how to do it properly on a flat surface. After a while playing with the housing, I thought: why not use the design/form of the housing to fasten it to the chassis? Especially the ribs around the outdrive were my target. I drew the gearbox and then sandwiched it between two carbon plates. With that "trick" I am now free to position the gearbox everywhere I want. I rotated it to have the motor low and overall moved it downward. The downside is, that the lower mounting points of the gearbox will need to be removed. The gearbox plates are multifunctional. They attach to the rotated Avante bulkheads to the tub chassis and topdeck, then on the other side key into the lower rear chassis plate and the rear arm mounts, creating a strong unit. They will mount the camber links and the upper shock mounts. Another extension of them above the motor will hold the rear wing. I returned to arm extensions to prevent a collision of the arm with the motor and to solve my lower shock mount problem from Kinzigtal. Another big problem has been the use of different wheels. Those touched the hub and I had to work with shims to find an intermediate solution. The new hubs are from Xtra Racing for the TA01. I already use them for the 4wd Stadium Truck based on the TopForce Evo. Another reason for these, is, that I can use DJC. A lot of bad track behavior came from binding cardans and then caused the outdrives to "wear" (getting destroyed). DJCs and blades should prevent binding and reduce wear. Here a overview of the custom part design only: Overview of the front: Good to see is how I placed the BBX steering inside the front cavity of the Fox chassis. The arms moved forward to increase the wheelbase to 273mm. New arm extensions on the outside (not inside like before) now sport the lower Awesomatix ball&cup which I will pair with the TRF201 steering arm. All pivot points and position of the damper was changed in that process. My front was just too stiff in Kinzigtal and lacked smoothness. Also all links are now longer and the steering links have the same length. This should make the car more superior to bumps and trustworthy regarding the behavior. The front is a bit busy with everything has to fit into that narrow chassis. Another key part with the rear gearbox plates, are the front suspension mounts. Again multifunctional, these hold the arms, anti-roll-bar, shock tower, bumper and act as stiffener for the fragile front chassis together with the bumper plate. The shock tower are keyed into the front suspension mounts and like that prevent the tower from moving. The tower plates have to be slid on and then get attached by one screw. The now long topdeck is closed in front. The servo moves down for the new steering. This removes a weakness. I broke the front of the topdeck in Kinzigtal... Why is it longer? The extension will give the front tub more stiffness and shall prevent the chassis from breaking in the tougher carpet high grip conditions. It uses the front tub design to slip over some forms sticking out and can be attached with a screw in front. The last picture gives a view on steering link and servo position:
  7. Good decision! Definitely a must for the FF03.
  8. @GermanTA03Guy: Yes to 54232. I use it with my Akkuschrauber on slow speed and grease to prevent heat build up. No pre drilling needed. The metric threads don’t last better, but you can feel when it is tight and putting in the screw is easier to do.
  9. I just saw a number greater than 5000 in a Fb post. So AE is having a high limit. Should give hope to everyone…
  10. @GermanTA03Guy: Very hard to say... From what I see having the car in front of my eyes, I would say it matches pretty much the Leyton House March car (I have only seen on pictures). I also think it has enough green. On the pictures it tends to be blueish depending on lighting and camera angle, but it is definitely on the green side. Here is the finished car: (the picture above comes closest to the real color on my screen) Now some of the outdoor pictures that were made with another camera in direct sunlight:
  11. @Superluminal: Thank you! This color is called „Urman Blue“ and is from Absimas line called „Spray Paintz“.
  12. I haven't found anything in Kyoto as well (but maybe missed it). In Tokyo I found Rajikon very good for all kinds of spare parts. Not sure though which transmitters they sell, but they should have enough. I found them also not too far away from the center (regarding traveling time).
  13. Pretty close to completion now. Last on the chassis build are the tires. I never build wheels consisting of so many separate parts: On the car: I definitely underestimated the expense finishing the body. My last competition buggy bodies were so easy to paint. But this thing additionally features a cockpit and lights: ... and my color reveal: In hindsight, I should've painted the rear "windows", too. Stickers attached: Later I found it necessary to paint the wheels too. @Quincy talked me out of the idea to paint them golden So silver it is. Making sunflowers first: Painted and assembled again: The wing is finished here and I added a slim white stripe on the rear and wing which isn't there stock. Work on the cockpit. Cut: ...and painted: I freely added some stickers to make it look like my driver "Roger Curtis" has sponsors And last, the light buckets. Two colors and a sticker: And I painted the rear windows black. I like it better that way. Now, it would be the perfect moment for a cliffhanger But you guys were so nice and generous with likes here, that you deserve a sneak peek:
  14. Installation of the shocks: Then the unique design support braces: More small pieces. Battery mount and antenna mount: Servo mounts and link: Now another tasty add: The motor. A tough choice and motors from that time are hard to come by. I decided to use Yokomos rerelease of their Offroad Esprit series. It has a fair price and a pink label: The gear cover comes already cut and with rubber cover for the diff adjustment:
  15. @Superluminal: Yes. The matte white plastic is softer and has the perfect bore holes for the tapping screws. It is really a pleasure to build. It would be the perfect experience if AE would’ve added ball bearings and used other plastic for the cups.
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