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wtcc5

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About wtcc5

  • Rank
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  • Birthday 11/24/1978

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  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Tamiya cars of my youth (the nineties) and overkill ultra performance conversions for 6€ chassis xD

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  1. Awesome result! The effects of paintkillers is always so different. Glad to see your body came out very good!
  2. I don’t want to kill ThunderDragons business here, just having a suggestion after I recently bought the carbon bridge HopUp: The FF03 carbon steering bridge is very much like the plastic bridge, but with bearings. Buy the bearing, widen the holes and install with 0.4mm shims and you are good to go (without the long link conversion and Ackermann adjustment like Thunderdragons part offers, of course). Or look for the carbon bridge part. It mostly goes for 30€ in Europe, but the shop I bought it (even was a shop on Amazon), sold it new for 15€. Maybe you find a similar deal.
  3. @Collin I think it might work with the steering arm, by just changing left to right. The ff03 bridge seems to stand out to the front too much and will maybe collide with the Dyna Blaster front bulkhead. It also looks like you will maybe need low ballstuds to make it work with the oem chassis. If you don't want to waste money you could try it with the stock plastic steering arms first... It definitely needs some creativity on some point in the process.
  4. It took a long time for the HopUp part to arrive. It came some days ago and today I found the time to install and give an answer to your question: I have no slop in the steering assembly shown below. So it could be a good alternative for your Dyna Blaster project. The set comes with a lot of shims and double the amount of needed screws. One set for hex drivers and one for JIS Phillips screwdriver. The situation before: The assembled steering rack with all-blue-screws: How it looks in the car (awesome ): How you see it after the car is assembled again :
  5. @Carmine A Did you maybe ask for my Shapeways Shop? The FF01 story has to continue My Civic project got more precise. I decided for the Castrol design after the Jaccs purchase didn't have a happy end. It also seems to make more sense to go for a budget build after the chassis basically cost 25€ and is in a shelfqueen condition. The bodyset came for 33€ and the cockpit was 18€. I did a full manual 58127 Castrol Civic VTi build. I didn't make any pictures of the body build as it is always the same procedure, but the cockpit build was a first for me. Working with a brush is not my strength, but somehow it looks ok. The helmet-face came out pretty good. Jason is not cross-eyed In the end I must say I like the cockpit very much... maybe I make one for my runner... Here now the pictures of the mighty Civic:
  6. Of course it makes often no sense to buy HopUp parts for plastic tub chassis. But it is your money, your choice and a lot of fun. So no need to say sorry. Have your fun and share it here with us if you want. I for myself am looking forward to your build as I just recently bought my first TT-01 and don’t know the details to look at at the build.
  7. Wow! lets deal some arms and chubs for gearcover and tails
  8. R/C cars is on all levels beyond "basic need" or "reason". I mean, why do I need nine FF01? And why do I have the urge to build a new one every week? This is stupid, but fun. It calms me down everytime I complete one. It would be even more fun to drive them with people who share the "sickness". Until then I have fun building them. I tinkered around with three on my cars in the last days. 1. The 3d-printed parts arrived and I added them to my Runner chassis: The quality is very nice. I chose the Multi Jet Fusion method with Nylon12 glassbeads. The surface looks smoother and it seems to be more rigid. It also is good to grind (the seat of the ballbearings). 2. Out of all the parts that arrived (see last post), I rebuild one chassis that will become a Civic (I have not decided which one... for two hours it would have been a Jaccs, but then destiny turned that around and now I will probably stay with a budget Castrol... which is still cool!). The some more of the parts will become another FF01 This time not one you could buy in a box, but a custom design. This design drove in the german touring cars series called STW and it was in 1998, the year Audi was forbidden to use 4wd (after sweeping the championships before). Team Abt then used the fwd converted cars this season. I somehow was motivated to do a decalset and make one. I am in contact with Mark Parnell of rcdecals.co.uk and he will print the set. Awesome! 3. The latter will be a kind of ugly duckling chassis as some parts are heavily used and lost its fresh look. Also I have no bumper, no tail end and no gearcover... So I played a bit with cad : The bumper will be milled from 8mm carbon and is deeper to protect the lower motor case. The motor cover part is unavailable and if it would be more expensive than one whole chassis. So why not make a Shapeways print... I am not sure if I should draw a tail end or just buy the original or maybe ask @Quincy
  9. @Nicadraus I am sorry!!! You are right! I checked again. It will work. I must’ve mixed it up. It is not much space, but should be fine. Again sorry for the misinformation
  10. In that case go for 42mm dcj to prevent binding or buy wider blocks. Look for A size. They also come as plastic set so no need to buy the blue gold aluminum blocks.
  11. You decide. If you want a blog form where you post your R/C life, then one thread it is. If you work on your cars installing hop ups and driving and making them faster/awesome, then make threads in the vintage/builds/etc. sections. This way they are better to find for guys who seek info or inspiration.
  12. This thread is useless without pictures Great to have you here!
  13. @Sweatpants Yeah, that is a real pain! The same part with a larger bore is available for the TT02 and Tb03. If you buy a tube with an inner diameter of 4mm and outer diameter 5mm, you can use 54094. That is all I know to this topic. @Carmine A Congrats man! Looking forward to your builds! Just stay calm enough to read the manual xD
  14. I don’t know. With 44mm shafts and geardiff you need at least 1XA blocks.
  15. If you build it with wide armmounts, then it should be possible to fit 45mm driveshafts.
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