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Everything posted by wtcc5

  1. Totally forgot there is one
  2. A Fb friend contacted me when he heard about my evo 5 MS. As he is a die hard fan of this chassis including Exotek conversions, he gave me some setup advise and we also talked about the drivetrain of this chassis. The latter topic was not so pleasant. In his experience you shouldn’t go stronger than 17.5t. The wear of the drivecups and the special spur gear mount will be high. So I had no choice, but to make sure that if I will someday drive this chassis a lot, I have enough spares. Except for the spur gear mount, I ordered all parts of the middle drive train twice Just to make sure… With these some more minor Hop-Up parts arrived: I put in the 44mm djc in front and thought I have the c-hubs with larger opening at home… but didn’t. So these were added as well as the titanium coated suspension shafts. Until now, the motor had no pinion. This has 39 theeth for a gearing of 6.0: Esc and rx are still missing. I am thinking of putting in an LRP Nexxt 4x, but the color is a thorn in my eye, so the housing needs a color change.
  3. As my hub design is nice, but a little on the weak side regarding hard impacts, I spoke to a friend who knows how to design aluminium and has people who know their job very well regarding manufacturing aluminium parts. After simplifying the design he made sure the right tolerances were used to make the bearings sit just perfect. The parts arrived some days ago and I couldn’t wait to add them to the car: I installed them front and rear. With that the car should be „bulletproof“
  4. Finished the body for this beautiful chassis: The wheels have three stickers each: The camera cannot show the real color: Today another Hop-Up arrived: These should have been in the box from the beginning…
  5. That was a nice build. Now I want a second one
  6. Finished the build video
  7. No, the black Dyna Run. Not even on the pictures of Modellbau-Seidel these are shown, but they resemble the silver ones a little bit. But it doesn’t matter, if the SuperStock endbell is attached with two screws and then falls off, it is perfect to work with
  8. And that is the problem. Removing these screws didn’t open my Dyna Run at all. These screws aren’t holding the back of the can. The back is squeezed by two bended „noses“ on the can. But it is impossible to bend these. That is why I was asking. But if the design was changed and these screws actually hold the rear part, then that would make it much easier.
  9. Body and wheel preparation: Adding two hop-ups: Especially the air-duct had my admiration for a long time. Even though its functionality is limited, I think it is a very cool design:
  10. @Sgt.Speirs: Can you open the can by removing two screws? How hard is it to remove the bearings? I build the chassis already and had a lot of fun completing the puzzle of very nice engineered parts. Here some pictures of the build:
  11. @Sgt.Speirs: I haven’t thought about that until now... Have you done it?
  12. The track looks incredible low grip. Even more than Quincy and my sandpit. Exactly what a rear motor buggy was made for (Duck und weg )…
  13. Another chassis series I wanted for a long time, but the right moment never came… After getting back into the hobby in 2009, I was a die hard Team Associated fanboy. It was no question that my touring car would have to be a TC5 (still regret that I sold it). Around that time Tamiya TRFs were the hot stuff with Marc Reinhard winning everything. At the track the TRF416 seemed to be a handfull to drive. At least that was what I saw with a lot of clubmembers. That somehow wasn’t the case with the TB evo 5. So the car stayed positive in my memory. In the RC threads and catalogue pictures it looked awesome. Years later when I rediscovered Tamiya for me, I stumbled over all kinds of TB evo versions. Especially versions III to V look really good. I often looked for chassis to buy. Seldom they were offered and if, then very expensive. Until now I have never owned one and even considered a TB-04 to reduce the pain. Then some days ago I found a NIB evo III for a fair price … but no, the seller is not in Germany for another month and I couldn’t buy it I still hope I can later this year. Again in pain I visited Ebay in hope for something nice TB evo related… And found it What a surprise! A NIB TB evo 5 MS for 335€, unopened box Was this real? I read the offer several times, rechecked item number, name, seller, location. Everything seemed to be ok. I bought it and rechecked again. A swiss seller making what a german considers a good offer. That is not common in my experience. I haven’t found a wrong, so it must be real The fitting bodyset arrived too: Together with red stuff for the evo III (if it will be mine someday): Before that I will celebrate the unboxing and build of the evo V MS here soon!
  14. With @Quincy buying the carbon chassis, I couldn’t resist of getting one too for my well used Super Astute with its hard scratched one. The price is so attractive in HongKong In Germany the original parts are available in the shops, but cost 97 Euro, the cfk set just 50 Dollar in HK…
  15. I only had three to four cars for the first 10 years after getting back into the hobby. Then Corona came and and I found love for FF-01 chassis… Now I have over 40 cars … What about the fun? Well I have only 3-5 chassis that are runners at a time. Together with friends (Quincy and Sgt. Speirs) I chose a new runner several times a year. After some runs with the Boomerang , I switched to the Dyna Blaster, next is the Super Astute… Having only a few cars makes the experience more intense, getting to know the car better, setup, driving style, competitiveness… I had that and it is nice also. Right now I have my fun cars (all vintage) and my race cars (TT-02 KR conversion and my fwd FF-03 conversion). The latter is the more intense setup and racing experience, the former pure relaxing fun, being a child again.
  16. It was time for a regular service and check of my runner. Especially the shocks needed a service. Fine dust got into the oil and the lower seal accumulated a lot of dirt. In front I also wanted more ride height and used a thinner shim under the piston. The present damper setup: - TRF damper (42102) - three-hole piston - front: 500 cst, rear: 400 cst - shim under piston front: 1.5mm, rear: 2.5mm - shortened lower ballcup neck in the rear - ride height shim front: 5mm, rear: 1mm - x-ring front and rear (42214) Then I removed the geardiff. Cleaning it was very unpleasant. I should never use putty again. It also got deep into the bearings... On the staircase then I dropped one part and it fell down to the cellar, where I couldn't find it. I really had to hold myself together, not to throw the whole thing in the bin. The standard diff went in the car again. Neither the TT-01 outdrives, nor the TA-02 ones seem to be strong enough to withstand the brutal forces of the FF-01 drivetrain... even though I use the dcj (42372) and the shattering vanished. Also my printed bumper was damaged a lot by the "one" bump we have on the schoolyard track. The new bumper has a champfered front edge and more material to be stronger there. I cleaned the dust off the car and the new gearcover got a sticker. The old one broke through the sheer forces of the RZ motor and because it had a crack already (the motor was very fast and made a lot of fun to drive, its speed suited the car very well). Now the black Sports Tuned is back. The chassis got a new setup with less camber and toe-out in front. With new tires:
  17. Ummm, are you telling us, that you are a little slower than a TT-01e with an FF-01 and not happy A TT-01 should normally gain two tenth out of a corner alone. Sounds pretty normal for me The problem with the c-hubs is strange. Could you analyze the problem, already? My design worked flawless on @Quincy and my car last weekend and I cannot think of what could be wrong (as the geometry looks pretty straight forward).
  18. @Nicadraus: While we were discussing oil thickness, my friends in the Awe FX Whatsapp group had this topic going on, too. One of them now builds a 70k diff. I worked a bit on the KR-MF. Last time out, the diff teeth caught a stone. It managed to damage around 20% of the theeth. So it was no question to replace it. And while at it, I added the aluminium cover and 100k oil. The old oil looked like 300k: Blue always looks good: The gear „box“: For the weight distribution and to react to the 6 degree caster (shim added under front suspension mount) I put all shims behind the front arms: Black and blue The last step was to copy the setup of one of Germanys fastest fwd drivers. He has a weight distribution of 66/34 on his Awe. My KR-MF is now at 65.25/34.75. Now I am curious how it works on my chassis. Especially the small camber angles (-1 in front and -0.5 at the rear) are interesting. With body:
  19. Feels too much. The car won’t turn in that nice and has no advantage on accelerating.
  20. @Nicadraus: I don’t know what Oil is in my diff I think it is 300k... But for the rebuild I will put in 100k for outdoor asphalt.
  21. @Nicadraus: It was for moving weight rearwards to reduce the load for the front tires. Even though the chassis has a middle motor, the f/r bias is that of a FF-03. Some spareparts arrived:
  22. @jonboy1: Are you a fellow german countryman? Today I played around with my Super Astute and rebuild the front Hi-Caps. Building the rere Hi-Caps is not difficult, but building them air free and with little rebound is. So I made a little video of how I assemble and optimize them:
  23. I finally made a video to how I build the Hi-Cap dampers:
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