wtcc5

@Chris.B: I don't know a source, but you can look at the numbers on the belts and search for (Bando) 3m plus the number of teeth for the belt length (for example 239 for the R belt). If you are lucky, you find a seller that sells low numbers, too. Don't forget the width of the belt; it should be 4mm. You can also use 3mm width. Check in shops that sell "timing" belts for robots, small machines, 3d-printers. In other news: @GermanTA03Guy provided more aluminum hop-ups for me This time the lucky chassis is my TA-03R with Mercedes body. It was overall a very lucky day for this chassis. Today it got: 53238 M-Chassis Quick Release Battery Holder 53263 Dyna-Run Super Touring Motor 53288 TA03 Aluminum Rear Upright 53325 TA03 Aluminum Knuckle Arm I started with the quick release holder: My own design holder for modern square LiPos had to leave: This R had a red Super Stock motor before. I stole it for another project or my FF-01 runner one or two years ago. From my favorite hobby shop I bought all spares needed to build a full Dyna-Run motor months ago. It then was stored. Today I remembered it and it found a place in this R: Last week Simon provided me with the beautiful front and rear hubs for the TA-03. I cleaned them and replaced the brass ballstuds with new shiny golden ones. Then it was time for the installation: Even more than the TA-02 or even the TT-02, the TA-03 transforms to something extremely beautiful with its hop-ups

That is a question I cannot answer at the moment. I have only driven my TopForce Evo mix (with plastic chassis) so far. I was/am not happy with its weaknesses. So at the moment I can imagine the Egress being tougher regarding gears.

I know I could tell by its availability… But I would have bought the other parts anyway, just to have the full effect As it is a chinese company, this part will be in stock again soon.

Perfect detailed build!

The Xtra Speed parts arrived. Unfortunately I missed out on the front hubs…

FF-01 is back on my R/C menu I am working on the Idemitsu Civic body and have another project in the pipeline: A Peugeot 406ST body with wheels and tires arrived together with another Tom‘s Exiv body set. The Former was released 1998 on the TL-01 chassis. I never understood why Tamiya chose the TL-01 over the FF-01 for this fwd car. To right this wrong, I will add this body on a FF-01 chassis to my fwd collection. As there is no yellow body color in the FF-01 collection so far, this will be a beautiful addition

@TamiyaD: These are PS-30 Brilliant Blue, PS-27 Fluorescent Yellow and PS-31 Smoke for the windows.

Yes, home printed. I have a Ultimaker. I don’t go with fancy materials, mostly stick with PLA, because it makes no fuss. Regarding the strength, there are better materials, but I design them tough (more material) and they will only fail in bad collisions or wall hits. And that is what I want, because it saves the expensive and/or vintage original parts that way. The direction of the print is important. Like for example the rear arm mounts were printed standing (like a tower). This way the part is stronger. Another design principle of mine is, that I try to draw a geometry that is somehow supported by the stronger parts (like carbon plates) around it, or that it can guide the forces into those strong parts without having to take all the load. I am using those parts for years on my TT-02 conversions. Last year I ran my Dyna Blaster with lots of 3d printed parts. All fine, no problem. 3d print is perfect for 1:10 scale R/C cars.

Just build it today. Plan is to run it on saturday on an offroad astro turf indoor track. I will let you know how much parts I destroyed

@BuggyDad: The front is extended too. The inner arm mounts stand out further on every side. Overall this Fox is now as wide (front and rear) as the Super Astute.

Got disturbed Here the completed Fox:

I made a print of the previous shown parts. The print had a mishap in the middle with the printer somehow slipping the plane by 2mm. So these parts were just used as a proof of concept. Later I optimized the geometry and worked on smoother solutions. The new print yesterday was a success: The front mounts got tougher overall. The upper rear screwhole vanished. The new shocktower now is designed to keep the mounts in place up there: The new design also needs no shims for the rear upper camberlink ballstud. On the car: For the rear I designed a new lower chassis plate. As it will be available in some weeks, I printed extended arm mounts to get to the width I need. The long 78mm double joint cardans returned to my 4wd stadium truck and 70mm cardans went in. To prevent race dnf's I upgraded the axles to 54623 with axle ring: The rear hubs now also sports titanium suspension shafts: Front completed: Rear completed: View from below:

@ruebiracer Thanks! That is a nice tip!

@BuggyDad: I am not sure how far I will go this time. I start slowly with some Xtra Speed parts @canyoncarver: Ah, ok! Now I know. I had two colors in mind as favorite choice in the end: Teal as contrast to the orange sticker. That would have made the look more toyish. And the gold, which fits to the anodized front hubs and overall has an elegant serious look. I didn’t want to make something with three or four colors as I am a bit unmotivated with making bodies in the last months.

@canyoncarver: I watched the build timelapse, but don't know what I can take for the Egress here? The great final awaits with the body work. Tamiya wants to have stickers for windows. Something that makes body work easy, but I don't like painted windows on my cars. I made masking stickers: And now the surprise... my color of choice: Without protective layer: In between the sticker job: All finished: Phew! What a beauty!

@canyoncarver: I would for sure. There are only a few models from Kyosho, that have my attention, though. The Outrage ST and for example their large F1 cars they had ('92 Jordan Sasol). And both didn't cross my path in the last years. I reached the final phase of this build. To complete the suspension the dampers were up next. I spare you the micro build steps for the Hi-Caps: Installation rear and front: Regarding the shock body color, I am fighting with my choice. I would love to use the golden variant, but then it would have a taste of being the "black special"... and I don't like the black special version... I thought about a mix: Golden cap with silver body or silver cap with golden body... One of the seldom tuning options for this car could be added here: The plastic servo mounts somehow don't fit this chassis. I ordered a set of 53596. Also a black High Torque Servo Saver would make sense. Or better should be part of the kit. The wheels are one of the most popular designs Tamiya offers. For me it is a first with these. And they look awesome on this car: Chassis completed:

More hot stuff arrived from @GermanTA03Guy: In hindsight I recognized that I cannot install the Quick Release Battery Holder, because none of my cars have the necessary parts installed for it So I have to console myself with the precious steering hop-up The bushings were asap replaced with bearings. Full hopped up steering in aluminum and carbon. As always it is hardly visible This car looks so good! Love it…

@ThunderDragonCy: Finding bodies for the F103GT is easier. It has the standard 190/257mm size. You could drive a lot of actual LM super car bodies from Montech (Porsche/Ferrari/Lamborghini) and what Tamiya offers (Toyota/Nissan). Also the GT body world and their performance shells like the ZooRacing BWOAH!. Of course all the TC 190mm shells, too.

@Room335: I think it is also about width not only wheelbase (of 280mm). RM01 are about 170mm compared to the 206mm width of the C11 body. @ThunderDragonCy: Finding Pro10 bodies is already a challenge. Tamiyas 280mm wheelbase is not the „industrial standard“ for Pan cars or Onroad cars. I couldn’t find anything that is not a Crawler…

These are from the DTM C-Class of (roughly) the same time: https://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=9005434#bild

I love the L&L shop especially for that. I could buy the Nissan body in a german shop before the C11 was released, but would be too afraid now to run it. That is were L&L comes to play. Unfortunately their location makes it an expensive experience.

… yes, and I got this: And the concept of 30-60 minutes sounds fun for a day of parking lot racing.

wtcc5 entered the chat

@BuggyDad I never used 6mm for my competitive conversions. Since Tamiya came out with the 54869 adjusters, I saw no reason for more precision or durability. Also the weight penalty of a 6mm ballstud (steel or brass) is not welcome. I understand why they were popular up to the nineties. One huge advantage though, is their freedom of movement compared to a 5mm version. That is why I used them for my Tamico Cup Top Force. The steep angle needed for a strengthening brace could only be mastered by the 6mm ballstud and ballcup combination.

No stress guys. I enjoy your discussions/exchange @canyoncarver: Unfortunately, I only see one solution for your question: A new stiff lower deck. I see no elegant design to effectively stiffen the car other than replace the plastic "tub" with a stronger lower deck/chassis plate made from a harder material... This is (in my opinion) one of the cars, that needs a nice detailed scale body. You meet with your fun friends on a warm summer day, all brought their scale bodies and TA-0X's and enjoy a reenactment of their favorite racing series (Super GT, DTM, all kind of Touring Car championships, ...). Parking lot racing, a chalk track, no serious setup work, just battery after battery