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wtcc5

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Everything posted by wtcc5

  1. @Carmine A: Great! Looking forward to see your build. Still, I would go for a used chassis if possible and then spent all the money on upgrades if possible.
  2. In that case I would go for the plastic spacers.
  3. @Honza: Sorry for the late answer, but I was too busy the whole week. I just imported the file of the Xray hub to the KR-MF file that has the TRF420 suspension. The Xray hub is a direct fit with the same geometry. You will need to shim the drive shaft/axle and I cannot tell exactly if the cardan will collide with the c-hub. The last thing is the location of the steering arm: That is higher than the one of the TRF420 hub. Last Tuesday I was in Senden again to find a driveable setup: My first step was to remove the oil from the rear diff to calm the rear down. This advice came from one of our top drivers in the club. During the assembly I left the rear shocktower carbon brace off, also I allow more flex by removing the two screws that connect the upper plate with the droop plate. In the beginning the car was good as always, maybe a bit on the understeering side. The tension increased with every lap, but the car kept its good balance. After several minutes the balance got better with every lap. Only after 8-10 minutes it got slightly loose, but still easy to control. Like that I continued to work on the setup. The change from linear to progressive springs in front made it alive. The balance now got a lot better, the car became much better to control and I gained a lot of trust. I tried different hard progressive springs without improvement. Also different anti-roll-bars in the rear and in front were tried. The 1.3mm felt best in front. Like that I could finally run on the limit with a kind of comfort. This was my best run: Afterwards, I somehow lost a tenth and it didn't came back, even with unchanged setup. Maybe the tires were over the top or the track got warmer... I don't know. Overall I am very happy and relieved that the car functions fine again and is kind of fast. With such planted rear I am motivated to try thicker oil in the rear diff again. Tomorrow I need to paint a new body and bring the car up to the required 1320g minimum weight. On Saturday I will scrub in another set of tires and try the thicker diff oil.
  4. It is already pretty close to be. Kits are sold for double or triple the price, some of the essential Hop-Ups (FF03R gearbox for example) unavailable… Go for it now would be my recommendation.
  5. No problem! I replaced the plastic washers with aluminum ones for the look. Onroad on high grip carpet and with hard suspension parts, aluminum spacers are a plus. For Offroad and low grip the plastic spacers will do a better job.
  6. Here we go again! The parts arrived this morning: Great quality, very happy! Of course , I wasn't patient and as soon as I had a free minute I started to add them to the car. Topdeck meets rear shocktower: As I had to disassemble most of the car, the lower chassis plater came next: Then I attached the topdeck to the chassis: What do you think of my closed front design? Wing stay: This design features two positions for the wing. I will use the lowest for now.
  7. I had a hard time yesterday. The balance changed drastically throughout the run. After several minutes it became nearly impossible to drive. I am very happy to have replaced my wheelhubs with the sturdy Xray versions... As you can see, it all starts pretty neat. Yes, I don’t have the perfect rhythm for this track, but the car has a healthy balance for the first laps. It makes what I want for these laps. Then in the next lap suddenly the balance changes. In my case the rear just gets loose. This is very unwelcome on our track. It somehow is not getting worse for some more laps before increasing with every lap. Yes, the ETS carpet is brand new and that maybe causes these problems. In the pits then the tires have accumulated so much lint, that you why it was undriveable. I was not the only driver having these problems. We then decided to vacuum the track, which together with small setup changes allowed three batteries with a normal behaving car before it got worse again. I could add all the rear grip in the world, it still was twitchy. In conclusion: The body is ruined, the bumper saved a lot of money and the car is now successfully crash tested. With the race coming up next weekend, I will not focus on speed, just on drivability throughout 8 minute runs to make sure to have a nice time. I also hope that a lot of drivers will attend practice right before raceday to scrub in the carpet for when it counts.
  8. Right in time the parts arrived for the needed practice day tomorrow: I installed them right away. Everything went as expected: The look is pretty nice. I am extremely thankful towards Xray/Hudy. They still make the best tuning parts for my KR chassis Everything installed: The width is now very close to what I had before. It got approximately two tenth of a millimeter wider overall:
  9. New season, new racing series. Well not so far away off the RCKleinserie I raced up to now... What was once the LRP-HPI-Challenge is now (for several years already) the RCK-Challenge. From the GT-Sport class I switch to the GT-Challenge class. While mostly everything stays the same, in this class the tire brand is specified and not free of choice. Also the motor changes. Fdr and body stays the same, very comfortable This is the website: http://rck-solutions.de/index.php?id=63 Last saturday I was running the car again: Since I wasn't (Indoor) Onroad Racing for seven months, I had a rough first battery run. My eyes just couldn't follow this rocket and how it was turning so blistering fast. I had to reduce the steering to 80%. Something I never did before as I cannot drive understeer touring cars. But this time I needed this to turn laps without touching the boards. The track at my club was changed and my rhythm was way off. I got warm in the third run, but had a glitch in my brainware and crashed the car. As result the rear left hub broke. I tried a sloppy repair with cable ties which hold for 15 more laps, but then just collapsed like Magnussens rear suspension in Mexico. Luckily I could stop my car without touching the boards. The hubs are on my list for a long time now. I just never needed a replacement, because I knew the track so well. Still these are a risk meaning you need to end your day early, like it happened to me last sunday. A new clubmember sat across from me with his Xray X4. Xray designed new hubs for the X4 and I always wanted to analyze them in real life. This was my chance. I asked him and he even had a spare I could have to calmly check all specifications. It was a pleasure! The Tamiya axles will fit with a 1mm shim. The hub has two screwholes on both ends allowing my long arm concept to be carried on plug and play... I saw a problem with the steering arm geometry, but was overall happy with the hub design. The same day I ordered four hubs and two steering arms. As they arrived my enthusiasm to make this car better ignited again. The hub is nearly perfect suited for my v5. Installed the overall width increased by approximately 2mm each side, not good --> My suspension is already wide enough to perfectly fill modern 190mm body wheel arches, so this is a "problem". Two possibilities to solve that: The standard outer ball bearing stands out 1mm. Using a slimmer one (5x10x3mm) will be the first step. The second is the use of a narrow wheel hex. Right now, I have a standard 5mm thick one in use. Tamiya offers down to 3.5mm versions. I ordered a set of these. Regarding the steering-arm-problem: It was none. I had a fallacy . Initially, I planned to go driving today, but then got ill and cancelled. But before I installed the rear hubs and this is how it looks. The car is a bit wide, but would work like that. I don't like the active toe link setup, because the link is more angled and shorter than my design. Need to find a solution for that. I also installed the mandatory motor, made setup and gave the shocks a service: A customer from California bought my last v5 conversion I had in stock and I gave him my bumper. I had to replace it (thinking of driving today), so I made an Xray-v5 version for my carbon brace for now: With it the car looks a bit standard... I will asap print a new v5-bumper next week: Now, I am eagerly awaiting X4'24 steering arms for the front conversion and the narrow hexes (I am really inpatient) Also planning to drive this chassis on saturday
  10. As „racing per post“ is much more serious than standard racing and cannot be taken easily, my advice is to go „all-in“. For just 900$ more you can get a lightly hop-upped version like this: Another advantage would be that on your prepped high-grip parking lot asphalt this won’t grip roll as easily. … . … . Don‘t take it seriously
  11. @hamtaro: That is a cool part! Thanks for sharing. I continued with the "development". Hardware arrived and I could complete the front suspension on both sides: My Fox looks ridiculous wide from some perspectives, so I had to check with the Super Astute. Yes, my Fox is wider, but just by some millimeters. It is indeed the narrow slim chassis, that changes the impression. The BBX slipper was in stock for some weeks and yesterday I installed it: Another hot topic was (is?) the steering. I wanted to implement the BBX steering rack. The Fox is too slim in front to do that without having to hack the front of the chassis. Biggest problem is to have the right angled lever on the steering rack to make connection with the servo. I tried one of the FF-03, but got nothing but collisions. For now I let this topic rest. The longer servo arm of the high-torque-saver is my choice. As mentioned in the beginning here, I needed to shim the lower front plate downwards by 5mm. I removed the shims there and put them below the servo mounts. Like that I don't have collisions with the servo arm and more air between front and ground. For the connection between steering arms and servo arm I need ridiculous long turnbuckles. One side is one M-05 96mm turnbuckle Oh well, it is too long, but good enough for now. I found all I need in a DT-02 set. Then the look will be better too --> all silver. The rear shocktower also got an update: a bit wider and with two height options to mount the wing: New rear tires and inserts from the Egress replaced the originals. I just discovered the Manta Ray should fit too... Maybe an alternative for astro turf? The BBX has the slipper spring on the left side. Never saw this up to now. I finished the parts design and am now waiting for the invoice. Getting a bit impatient with the car now standing on all four just needing an rx & esc... ok, and a battery mount
  12. Hi Mike, I got a used 55T spur in the box. Let me know if you need it. I am located in Germany.
  13. Never heard something like this before. Maybe it caught the exact same signal from somewhere. Should never happen, but chances are never zero. Or it had a software glitch. Good, that nothing happened to you, others and the car!
  14. Thank you! I use standard PLA. The plates later will be make from carbon, but PLA is perfect to check for mistakes first.
  15. From my experience, if the gear cover is undamaged an installed properly it makes no difference if you use the supports or not. The standard spurs (speed gear set) died in around the same timeframe. It just can’t take the loads in touch down situations.
  16. I prepared and tested a TF on a modern astro turf track the whole summer and ironed out all problems. Most problems can be cured with max long screws and a support of the rear tower. Breaking spurs is still a major problem and can only be cured with a new rear housing design that has space for a slipper. I would be glad if a serious experienced company would go for that. On Fb there are groups, that would be more than happy to buy stuff like that. The sealed diff conversion was sold there also with a lot success. I know four or five guys who would buy a slipper without thinking in my circle.
  17. I printed the new parts and tried to make it a new front: New design, new challenges I forgot that the front hub upper ballstud has a 4mm thread. My 3mm ballstud won’t fit. Also my turnbuckles are too short. The damper and the extension fits without trouble. I ordered thread adapter and 52mm turnbuckles to complete the front. The heave damper needs thicker oil and a harder spring. I really like how it comes together.
  18. I have to admit, that I totally underestimated the complexity of this conversion. Maybe I was a bit arrogant, thinking with my experience this would be an easy thing to develop and do. It is the absolute opposite! All of my ideas and work arounds didn't work, collisions and problems everywhere. Having to use the original arms makes this an absolute challenge. Especially as I don't want to butcher them until something fits. This now brought me to a three-shock-concept in front. Today I tried to make something happen with two lay-down-shocks in front, again without success. My new idea has two very short upright shocks in front combined with the classic heave-damper. The attachment point on the arm is the mount, that carries the bend aluminium sheet, that protects the steering from flipping too far: As the short shocks only have 7mm of travel, they do the same movement as a lay-down-concept just in the middle of the arm. I think it will be a setup challenge, but the range of touring car springs is wide. And if these will be still too soft, I could use Xray NT springs, that come in twice and three times the hardness. I hope this case won't come and the heave damper can help here. So soft side dampers for cornering and the heave damper for touch-down after jumps. Probably this setup will be joined by a anti-roll-bar. Well, I still need to remove a bit of material on the arm to make it work...
  19. I haven't found a way to make independent-lay-down front dampers work, because of the arm inner joint location that needs the lever to be attached to. So to get somewhere here for the winter indoor season, I will try the standard layout first. It took two days to draw the complex front arm and the bulkhead. Another day to come up with an idea how to use the standard arm and extend it. At the moment I tend to use two more lower arms, cut off the outer part and connect it to the arm via a carbon plate. The lower shock mount then will be attached to the standard arm from below. That way I can keep the shocks low to keep the look sleek. The shocktower then will be attached to the upper arm mounts. My plan is to have a turnbuckle-triangle as camber link so I can use the stock hub with balls and still have full adjustability. But that will need to be drawn later: Edit: As I would like to have the dampers mounted central on the arm (like the BBX), I will maybe come up with an alternative design
  20. I am at the point where I don’t have real joy building new cars out of the box. Most fun are old run and tuned cars. Nothing beats the joy to discover a rare tuning part hidden under a casing.
  21. wtcc5

    My BBX Build

    If you visit Germany you can try to beat my upgraded Novafox with your tuned BBX If that is no reason to practice beforehand, then I don’t know
  22. A little comparison with my shelf Blaster: Then I fiddled with the TBG body a bit: While at it, I found the sleeved damper color to be wrong on this conversion. I also ran out of screws and now go for titanium screws everywhere. The high-torque servo saver had to move as well and the replacement was tuned with the aluminum cap: Blue stuff: Shock build: All new parts installed: Just a normal Dyna Blaster... ... or isn't it
  23. Just awesome! Thanks for posting, documenting and writing up all details! The path looks really nice with a lot of ground change. I wanted to do something similar with my friends this year, but it didn’t happen, because of the different time schedules everybody has… Maybe doing it alone, like you did, is the way to do. Thanks for this report! It was a good read
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