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About Tamiyastef

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  • Birthday 10/08/1970

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    Antwerp - Belgium

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  1. Not today but yesterday actually I took a look at my Sand Viper to see what it would need to get ready for the Tamico offroad cup. I found out these were the only spare hexes I owned... Not even 4 the same and not even 4 in good condition... So a trip today to my LHS got me these: but I came across these and 2 of these and couldn't resist. A couple of weeks ago I got the last steel idler from this same LHS for my XV-01 so I was pleased to see another one in stock today and grabbed that as wel. And then I came across this: knowing I already own item 53927... and allthough already owning and and this being not cheap I couldn't leave without
  2. Well the low rider CC-01 Pajero is IMO an excellent example of another "Typical Tamiya". It's a car that has no place. It's not a true scaler, not a touring car, not an off roader, not an outback truck although it shares the same bulbar like front bumper monstrosity. It is however a re-used decades old design with a little twist (read other wheels and "street" tires) and the same flaws it had when the first batch of the same chassis design left the factory many many many moons ago. And yet my first reaction when I see one is: "I want one, how on earth did I choose to buy something else when these were still readily available". And that's what makes it a Typical Tamiya to me Building a trailer for one of my crawlers to pull a tarmac racer or off road buggy has been on my project list ever since I saw Matteo's TRX4 Blazer pulling a jet boat to the river on YouTube so I'll follow this with much interest.
  3. When one of your cars has this kind of problem it's really frustrating but also intriguing at the same time. Do you have a silver can and basic esc lying around? Just to try and see if you get the same problem with the basic setup as with the more powerful combo. Do you have a spare belt or even the original from the kit? Just so you can compare to make sure they have exactly the same width and length.
  4. Forecast says now a dry period for Sunday so I may have a go. If the forecast is correct and nothing else comes up before Sunday that is
  5. First step into "C Bag" involves the electronics and servo saver. Basic set up is this: Dumbo RC 6 channel transmitter, 6 channel non gyro receiver, Amewi digital servo, Carson 70A ESC. Not this but this The ESC should be waterproof... but I've heard rumours some got damaged (went up in smoke) after some wet outings so I carefully opened the plastic casing to check if any plastidip was needed. The whole electronicsboard had a firm coating so no need for additional plastidipping . Hope i'm not proven wong on the first wet encounter. Step 33 gets the chassis involved. First mounting the servo in place I did some filing As I want these to fit Receiver is just sitting loose in the chassis for now. I will see with the prop shaft and driver figure in place how to position it and the ESC best, to get the most unobtructive and easiest to work on wiring. Next is a typical Tamiya take on a body post and installing the battery holders. Then it's turnbuckle time again. Steering assembly. In the next step the previously constructed rear gearbox is joined to the chassis. And yes I did tighten up the screws, this was just to position it correctly on both sides before doing up the screws completely. And then the front gearbox and propeller shaft are put on "simultaneously" Looking like this from the underside and like this from the top No coathanger propeller shaft but a TT-02 blue alu somewhat beafier one so again a bit of filing was needed to avoid rubbing on the chassis where the green dots are. Plastic fantastic also known as the front bumper For now I skipped steps 40, 41 (except the the G3 part) and 42 I did do step 43 but tire lettering still needs to be done later. And step 44 make it look like this (with the ESC thrown in ) I like it more than I assumed I would. It feels smooth and it hasn't been driven in yet. Next will be cutting the chassis cover/driver, wing and main body. After that I can mount them provisional to see where exactly I want my receiver/ESC/on-off switch to sit eventually and to check the spring stiffness with a buggy that's ready to race. When the springs feel right I'll turn my attention to the damping. By the time I get to that weather will hopefully improve enough to get some paint on as well. Only two months left before the first event and two other cars left to get ready, I'll have to increase my pace .
  6. As it is 2024 now and I'd like to use the same transmitter for different cars during the Tamico offroad Cup I have one of these ddf350's incoming
  7. For me in Belgium it's 275 euros VAT (German taxes) included, around 290 euros delivered.
  8. Welcome! February 2024 I count 4 cars, let's count again in February 2025. I guess at least 6
  9. Dirtmaster gets my vote as well. Since you have a DT-02 that's prepped for this track you can compare them directly to see if the Dirtmaster is indeed so much better/faster more consistent or easier to drive fast than the DT-02?
  10. Step 28 is similar to step 24 but it's the front shocks this time. Getting the parts. No shims needed on the front piston rods. They are a bit different from the rears (just O-rings and no spacers + no nut at the bottom) and more like regular CVA's Also mounting them to the chassis goes very similar as in the rear. Only black spacers an no blue ones... So front end done s well. Apart for the wheels this is like the drawing on the side of the box. I'm a bit surprised Tamiya uses 3x27mm screws to mount the shocks to the shock towers and to the suspension arms. They could use 3x23mm screws and don't have the screws sticking out like they do now. It would look better and would be cheaper. It's 32mm of 3mm threaded metal rod per kit, not being used, serving no purpose whatsoever; a 1000 kits means 32 meters of wasted material! No idea what the reason could be. Nevertheless, believe it or not, this was the end of screw bag B! Next step requires screw bag C.
  11. Step 24 building up the rear dampers. First step is collecting all the parts. As there was a lot of play I shimmed the piston on the piston rod, that's a first for me, never done that before, let alone with a 0,5mm shim! Ever since using the e-clip tool and green slime building shocks no pita anymore IMO Normally next step is putting the oil in but I build them dry first. Using shock pliers makes life easier as well and is better anyway than the pliers shown in the manual... Ready to be mounted on the chassis. Done! For now that is. Will check the springs when the car is fully build and ready to run. Only when I'm satisfied with the spring tension I'll try to get the damping correct. I'm really enjoying this build. It reminds me a lot of my Falcon build from BITD. In comparison with my Grasshopper the Falcon felt much more as a serious buggy, the trailing arm independent rear suspension with dogbones, the double whisbone front set up, and the massive (compared to the ones on the Grasshopper) oil filled shocks all around. The ones on the Terra Scorcher now seems another kind of plastic than the CVA's on my Falcon IIRC. The ones on the Terra seems to be a bit harder plastic. The Falcon ones felt as they were made from the same material as the rear bumper/cage/skid, a somewhat tougher material. It's been a while so I may remeber this completely wrong . Maybe the square foot of plastic they call the front bumper also reminds me of the one on the Falcon.
  12. Such a good looking buggy this.
  13. With the rear gearbox assembly completed we shift our attention to the front. Still Bag B . It is not really mentioned in the manual but the F1 and F2 parts (steering knuckles) are threaded for the BB5 kingpins. That's metal to plastic so one must take care not to damage the plastic threads. When they're in the correct position they go together really smoothly. I used some shims on the screw pin between C3 and D1. Not using the plastic A5 part. but the aluminum Xtra Speed part And again not using the screw pins to attach the lower suspension arms to the gearbox but shafts and e-clips, brass braces and shimming to take the slop out as much as possible. The front stabilizer has some weird construction with small rubber tubing to keep the BB15 3mm balls where they need to be on the stabilizer bar. Why this and not the more common ball end with grub screw combination? You do get a body post, damper stay, stabilizer bar holder in one step... and that's what it looks like assembled. Next time we'll build up the dampers.
  14. Making the parts for the rear stabilizer. And installing the rear stabilizer. Probably will have that removed after the first test drive but installed it anyway for the time being. Final part of the rear gearbox assembly is the rear "bumper". That's really small, especially compared to the square foot of plastic also known as the front bumper .
  15. Next step is building the rear arms. My first encounter with the unique to Tamiya screw pins was building my Falcon BITD. I had no problem with them back then, I thought they were genius and I even replaced the king pin/grub screw assembly on my Grasshoppers steering knuckles with a screw pin. On my DT-02 I noticed the ones on the left side of the car had a tendency to work themselves loose under use but that's easily solved by mounting them the other way around. (i.e. from back to front instead of from front to back as per manual) Never had a problem stripping/splitting/breaking parts due to the use of screw pins. So to the horror of some of you I'm using the screw pins except for mounting the under suspension arms to the gearboxes where the e-clips and shafts will be used. Next is putting the gearbox joints in and assembling the parts made in step 14 to the gearbox. Ends up looking somewhat like this. Step 16 is joining the results of step 14 and 15. Using these as mentioned before You can see I shimmed the shaft and made a brass brace to prevent the suspension arm to split. A bit fiddly to make it fit as tight as possible but remain smooth and supple arm movement.
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