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khyzersoze

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Everything posted by khyzersoze

  1. They're more solid I guess. Less chance for things warping out of shape should it become stressed through twisting. The stock plastic ones were 2 halves pieced together which I didn't care for.
  2. Excellent! Might convince me to pick up a second one now! So far the chassis is very capable!
  3. More stuff came in the mail. SSD Pro SCX10 II Aluminum Knuckles SSD00144 (eBay) SSD Brass Weights (Black version) SSD00140 (eBay) Ran into a snag with the hardware included with the brass weights.... 1 of the 4 screws was too long. Anyway, I used a dremel to cut it down as I did not happen to have that particular size screw in my parts boxes. I was reluctant to do this, because I was worried about a bad cutting job possibly ruining the threads of the knuckles. I guess it turned out ok though.
  4. Some parts came in the mail recently. GS02 aluminum shock brace GM30130 (ebay) (currently unused) GS02 stainless steel front under guard GM30150 (ebay) GS02 cantilever sway bar GM30143 (ebay) GMADE Aluminum 12mm Wheel Hub (4) (8mm Thick) GM30131 (ebay) Gmade - Rear Link Kit, 324mm Wheelbase GM30133, for GS02 BOM (ebay) (currently unused) Gmade - Rear Link Kit, 336mm Wheelbase GM30134, for GS02 BOM (ebay) (currently unused) Gmade Cantilever Arm Set, for GS02 BOM (Titanium Gray) GMA30139 (ebay) GMADE Komodo Roof Rack & Accessories (ebay) Stainless front guard went on first. I bought 3 generic silver ones made for the SCX10.2, but they were on the slow boat from China :roll:, so I went ahead and ordered the Black one from Junfac in Korea that came within a week. :shock: Next are the metal cantilever arms and the sway bar. I decided to go with the medium bar for now. Comparison. Metal on left, plastic on right Both installed Time for the sway bars. Soft (green), Medium (white), Hard (red) Sway bar on
  5. Some belated updates. Axial SCX10 Wheel Wells (AX31150) (ebay)
  6. A few from today's hill climb. Rig really surprised me with how well it did today. The Pro-Line BFG Krawlers have also become my favorite tire.
  7. TRX-4 Sport: Single speed transmission vs 2-speed transmission Full Time locked diffs vs Locking/unlocking diffs SCX10 Honcho: Plastic links vs Aluminum Links (rod-ends are still rubbish though, should replace them regardless) Plastic gears in the AX10 transmission vs Metal gears (not sure about this one) in the more expensive RTRs and Raw builder's kit. (Cherokee kit comes with 2-speed capable transmission - the only SCX10 II that does so) Plastic shock bodies vs aluminum shock bodies (really a non issue, they both not that great). The body. Single piece axle design vs Older multi-piece axle design in the Cherokee Kit. What you could do if you don't want RTR and know what you want (with Axial). 1. Buy Axial SCX10 II frame rails 2. Buy the plastic sprue parts for - chassis braces, battery tray/servo mount, body posts, mounts, shock hoops, wb8 drive shafts 3. Buy aftermarket Axles and associated parts 4. Buy Chinese all metal AX10 Transmission on ebay for $30. 5. Buy aftermarket suspension links 6. Buy aftermarket Shocks 7. Your choice of wheels, tires, bumpers and body That should give you the chance to scratch build from ground up with only the parts you want.
  8. Nice, I just need that HPI Venture to fill out my fleet. Otherwise, I also have all the major platforms. I love them all though as they've all got their own uniqueness. as far as MST sizes... MST 1/8 = Axial, Vaterra, HPI, Traxxas, GMADE, HoBao 1/10 MST 1/10 = Tamiya 1/10
  9. All of the RTRs will have weak servos, so you'll want to upgrade the servo regardless. Axial SCX10 II Raw Builder's Kit - Lowest cost, newer 1 piece axles so some of the 3rd party upgrades won't work on these. Old AX-10 Transmission. No Wheels, Tires, Body. Plastic not the greatest. Axial SCX10 II Cherokee Kit - Decent price, multi-piece axle design, 2-speed capable transmission (2-speed gear parts are optional purchases), plenty of aftermarket support. Plastic not the greatest Vaterra Ascender K10 RTR - Decent price, really capable out of the box, suffers from torque twist that can be modified to be better. moderate aftermarket support, weak stock servo. Good plastic HPI Venture FJ RTR - average price with the current discount, looks great, weak servo, not as much aftermarket support, but it's starting to get a little traction. HPI Venture Scale Builder's Kit - Not out yet, more expensive than the Axial Raw Builder's Kit, No body, wheels, tires. small aftermarket support. Traxxas TRX-4 Defender, Bronco, Tactical - More expensive, very Capable truck with portal axles, lots of gimmick features that may or may not be desirable. gimmick features reliant on servos. RTR servos fail easily. Aftermarket support is slowly growing Traxxas TRX-4 Sport - average price, locked differentials and single speed transmission so less prone to failing from electronics. really capable with portal axles. weak RTR servos. Aftermarket support is slowly growing Traxxas TRX-4 Kit - expensive for a kit, because it includes the electronics (esc, servos, transmitter, receiver). Not great if you don't desire to use their electronics. Aftermarket support is slowly growing GMADE BOM - Average cost, Shares so much with the Axial SCX10 II that it's almost like a SCX10 II version 2. It can use some SCX10 II aftermarket parts. Some people have experienced transmission issues, but GMADE is issuing updated housing. really capable crawler, aftermarket support is limited to in-house Junfac and SCX10 II compatible parts. Plastic is around same as Axial. GMADE Sawback 4LS/Komodo - Average cost, but it's an older platform. not as capable as some of the other trucks. AFtermarket is in-house Junfac,GMADE, and some smaller Asian companies. Plastic is good GMADE Sawback - AVerage cost, but it's an older platform and it's a leaf-spring suspension truck. It's great if you are looking for leaf-spring truck. Plastic is good. MST CFX-W - Lower cost because it comes without a body (for now...) Same size class as SCX10 II, Ascender, Venture, TRX-4. Plastic quality is great. Portal axles. very capable crawler, Aftermarket support is small and mostly in-house MST and a little Samix. MST CMX, CFX - lower cost, but they are smaller trucks. CC-01 bodies fit on the CMX and CFX. good plastic quality, very capable crawler for it's size (definitely out-crawl a CC-01). Aftermarket support is small and mostly in-house MST. Lots of scale body opportunities as far as looks though. HoBao DC-1 kit - Upper Average Cost. Includes a lot in the kit as far as scale details. decent crawler, but it comes with terrible tires. Body is heavy, so it'll take more skill to drive (like the TRX-4 Defender and tactical). AFtermarket is limited to in-house HoBao. Plastic quality is great! I maybe missing some off the top of my head, but that's the quick rundown.
  10. Took out the GOM for a run. I need to put a better motor in there and remember to put the extra batteries in my backpack next time.
  11. Upgraded the wheels and tires for the BOM. Crawler Innovations 1.9 XL Deuces Wild Single Stage foams (available on eBay) Pro-Line 1.9 Super Swamper TSL XL G8 Tires (available on eBay) Injora 1.9 Beadlock Wheels (available on eBay) Testing some image hosting out, so let me know if the pictures don't work. This is the BOM on stock tire/wheel setup. The Injora wheels Crawler Innovations 1.9 XL Deuces Wild foams Pro-Line Super Swamper TSL XL 1.9 G8 Tires These are a perfect match All foams inserted, ready for wheels All the wheels & tires mounted together How it sits now.
  12. Some cosmetic updates for the BOM. BOM exterior detail parts tree (Black) [GM60120] (ebay) BOM mirror L/R [GM30128] (ebay) BOM cage hinge (Titanium gray) [GM30137] (ebay) Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker Set - 1mm, 2mm and 4mm The parts I'll be adding Never really liked chrome. Just not a fan of it. Door handles and side mirrors added Used Molotow liquid chrome markers to properly chrome out the light buckets [/url] Prepping for mounting Here's how they look mounted Time to put on the hinge parts So the hinge parts for the most part is just a preference, and not really an upgrade. The stock plastic ones for all intents and purposes work just fine. The difference is that the option hinge lets you bolt down the hinge so that it stays on the chassis when lifted. On the other hand.. the stock plastic one allows you to easily completely remove the body from the chassis by just sliding it out of the notch, whereas the metal option hinge would require you to unscrew it from the chassis. It's really a preference, and I opted for the mounted to chassis option.
  13. Moving on to option parts and upgrades. First up.... Junfac Drive Shafts and Upgraded Diff Lockers. GS02 Hardened universal shaft set (J30035) (ebay) GA44 Heavy duty diff locker (GM30112) (ebay) Here are the goods Taking care of the drive shaft first. Drive shafts added. Stock diff locker about to come out What's about to go into the axles The indentation to properly assemble the diff locker Upgraded diff locker assembled Upgraded diff locker in the axle Repeated the same process for the other axle.
  14. I feel like the quality of the plastics is fine, but some people think it's soft? At the same time those same people feel like the Axial plastic is good, while I think it's rubbery/soft. I would say the plastic between Axial and GMADE is close. My top 2 picks for plastics quality in a crawler are MST and Vaterra. Those 2 have really high quality plastic. HoBao also has pretty nice quality plastic, but they've only got 1 crawler out.
  15. Steps 60-65: Body & Completion It's taken be quite a bit of time, and I'm finally done with the "stock" build. I won't be stopping here though. I wanted to build this truck completely stock first just to get that out of the way, but now it's time to start modding and running. Lexan cab ready for painting Cab painted and decals applied. My Plasti-dipped fender flares need some work that I'll revisit later. Here's the grille that I won't be permanently attaching, as I won't be using it. These are the parts you will need for the front grille This is how the front grille would look attached Parts needed for Side mirrors and door handles Mirrors and door handles attached Rear cage attached I love the rear cage hinge for this truck. Very convenient. Stock build complete
  16. Step 59: Rear Cage Here's one of the cooler parts of this truck. I really like this rear cage/hinge setup. Here are the parts needed Rear Cage put together Fuel cell painted up and attached to the cage
  17. Steps 56-58: Wheels and Tires This is going to be a short step... not much to see here, and I'm just putting these together for the sake of the stock build documentation. You're going to need these... All mounted (little secret.. I haven't glued them yet) Now you'll need these. Ok.. this part done. See told you it was a short step.
  18. Steps 49-55: Electronics boxes, Sliders, Bumper, Body Posts The BOM is really starting to come together now. Non kit parts used in these steps: 1. FlySky FS-R6B Receiver 2. Hobbywing 1080 Esc (available on eBay) My FlySky FS-R6B Receiver and where it's going... Some parts for the wiring entrance of the receiver box. This is where it goes on the truck Going to be using a Hobbywing 1080 Esc (available on eBay) Parts for the sliders Mounted the box without the electronics for the time being. Front bumper. Body posts
  19. Steps 36-48: Driveshafts, Suspension, Steering. Covered a bit of ground in this update. Getting on to the driveshafts. We'll need the F-Bag Parts needed for lower front shaft Lower front shaft attached to front axle Parts needed for lower rear shaft Lower rear shaft done The upper half of the driveshafts Parts for the cantilever suspension setup Putting the cantilever setup together Stock cantilever setup Hooking up the upper shafts to the transmission Front one going on... Front shocks mounted Time to get to the panhard rod. Now for the steering rods Was experiencing a bit of bump-steer with the combo of servo horn (Boom Racing low profile) and servo (Turnigy MG959 v2 30kg) that I was using, so I decided to add a 1mm spacer to correct that.
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