gizard

Hmm thanks all for the ideas, I think I will take a trip to the LHS and see what parts on the shelf I can muster - they usually have huge amounts of wheels tires - can't decide whether or not to go single or twin axle - as i might make the trailer capable of carrying not only the 12" boat but with adjustment something like the XV-01 or TT-02 types......

Try as I might I cannot find a reasonably priced basic trailer so my two boys can tow their 12" jet boats to the water behind CR-01s or any other RC cars from my fleet. Most trailers seem to be a ludicrous price at £100 plus. so i was wondering whether to fabricate something with some bits of aluminium and spare Tamiya wheels and tyres (front axles from 2wd models?) that i have kicking about - any suggestions?

Makes me want to buy another one! (Bought my first about 3 years ago)

I am on the fence on this one! When a rollover occurs the body gets less damage. That said I used magnets on my CR-01 Land cruiser and when it rolled over the body just fell off pulling the LEDs out of the light buckets!

Ahh thanks - missed out Step 22 by mistake - which are already proper bearings so not required to be upgraded from bushings 850x6: Step 1 BA17 1280x8 Metal - Suspension link mounts external Step 6 BA19 1050x6 Metal - Axle (2 are external facing) Step 6 BA18 1050x2 Ball Bearing - Axle interior Step 7 BA18 1050x2 Ball Bearing - Axle input shaft interior Step 7 BA19 1050x2 Metal - Axle input shaft external Step 10 BA19 1050x2 Metal - Outdrive inner Step 11 BA19 1050x2 Metal - Outdrive inner Step 22 BD9 850x6 Ball Bearing - planetary gear Step 23 BD8 1510x1 Ball Bearing - planetary gear Step 24 BD7 2415x2 Ball Bearing - gearbox Step 24 BA18 1050x2 Ball Bearing - gearbox Step 24 BD9 850x1 Ball Bearing - gearbox Step 32 BA19 1050x4 Metal - Outdrive outer So my purchase list still stands 8x 1280 rubber shielded 2+2+2+2+4 = 12x1050 Rubber Shielded 4x 1050 Metal Shielded

So from the Manual I deduce the following: Step 1 BA17 1280x8 Metal - Suspension link mounts external Step 6 BA19 1050x6 Metal - Axle (2 are external facing) Step 6 BA18 1050x2 Ball Bearing - Axle interior Step 7 BA18 1050x2 Ball Bearing - Axle input shaft interior Step 7 BA19 1050x2 Metal - Axle input shaft external Step 10 BA19 1050x2 Metal - Outdrive inner Step 11 BA19 1050x2 Metal - Outdrive inner Step 23 BD8 1510x1 Ball Bearing - plantery gear Step 24 BD7 2415x2 Ball Bearing - gearbox Step 24 BA18 1050x2 Ball Bearing - gearbox Step 24 BD9 850x1 Ball Bearing - gearbox Step 32 BA19 1050x4 Metal - Outdrive outer So therefore need to order (to replace the metal bushings): 8x 1280 rubber shielded 2+2+2+2+4x 1050 Rubber Shielded 4x 1050 Metal Shielded Am I correct ??? -( I have not yet received the kit to double check).

I notice that the site is back up does this mean that we might see orders from UK Stores appearing soon???

I have a set of these, they are a bit cumbersome and very light which in my very limited experience of crawling is not what you need!

It has arrived ! The instructions don't appear to be very clear on the paint front - I guess it is a case of painting it completely white and then adding the stickers to the outside if you are doing box art? I do have an airbrush but find it a bit of a hassle these days - so I might just get a rattle can of white as it's is only one colour.... Also wondering what motor esc combo to use - again the instructions state a fairly slow motor both in brushed or brushless guise - I think I will go brushed 17-23t as I have a Quickrun 1060 which is nice and compact without a fan. edified to add: just looked at the price of the Kyosho Brushless motor and ESC - wow - they are quite pricey!

-Follow the instructions and re-do the throlle end point setup -also ensure that the esc is brushed mode not brushless mode -if check the motor by directly connecting the battery on the motor terminals (watch out as this will give full throttle straight away if functioning correctly

Pretty much finished the DT-02 Sand Viper. Has 10BL120 with 13.5t Speed passion. Goes quite nicely. I have ordered some extra rear dishwheels along with Proline Holeshots for the rear.

yes it was interesting when i needed a front gearbox casing for an Egress i enquired as it wasn't listed on his shop but he had it in stock and sent it to me - perhaps i should ask if he has what i want - but i have literally just joined the dark side so to speak (in regards to this site) and ordered a Kyosho Turbo Scorpion! so perhaps my need for a second CR-01 can wait a little!

Thanks for the really helpful info - I have one and it's on the way! from a model shop in the UK!

Ahh looks like yet another delay - stock for UK for the item has jumped again from today to end of the month again - it's getting little frustrating now as I have all the extra bits to do the build i want to do bar the actual kit itself......

cool thanks for the response very useful. Sorry one more question if i may - What is the Turbo Scorpion like compared to the Ultima - keeping in mind the trailing arm suspension?

I find myself suddenly attracted to one of these. Never had a Kyosho before - always Tamiya. (something at the back of my head says parts can be used on more than one model - but that is not always true). I like the look more than anything - was looking at the Ultima because of the A arm suspension - but this has a better battery location (tidied away imo). What is the parts availability (pandemic aside) usually in the UK also does the kit come with the lights etc.? cheers G.

I have a Mountain Rider to build too! - but it will be stock with the leafs etc.

it is the Tamiya Tundra 3speed with Gmade / Junfac 4link suspension kit which replaces the leaf springs and friction dampers, with the plates on the side of the chassis rails (for the 4 link attachment points) there is no space for the transverse battery mount so it goes longitudinally between the chassis rails under rear bed.

Here are some more pictures:

Lockers pretty much internal only other than the brass pin that pokes out of the top of the diff casing which gets pulled over to lock the diffs by a wire inside a sheath attached to a servo mounted where the steering servo would sit in standard spec. I will try and remember to post more pics of the bare chassis tomorrow (have to take them first!)

Finally got the Tundra 3speed running with it's remote controlled lockable diffs, which annoyingly don't always lock... but it has been such a long time building and taking the diffs off is quite a process. It has: -Junfac / Gmade 4-link suspension -Junfac Dampers and springs -Junfac on axle steering (did the rear axle initially as well but decided to make it less complex in the end) - Junfac extended hexs with barrel nuts. - Gmade GT 2.2 bead lock wheels - Proline 2.2 Dirt Hawg tyres. - ketrieber doctor front and rear lockable differentials

Apparently we are getting a new wild one? - General discussions - Tamiyaclub.com

Nuts - there was a CR-01 available and I waited too long to pull the trigger and someone else has bought it..... and I have all these extra parts turning up for it too!

That sounds duff to me try a discharge from full to see how much capacity it has from full. Is it puffed at all. (Keep an eye on it).

Well heard that Tamiya UK website is down which is causing issues apparently? That said one UK site is showing what I want but is it really?