gizard

Dt-03 and blitzer already have wheelie bars 😈😉

I've ordered a couple of these to try - https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-sport-track-4000mah-3s-11-1v-50c-lipo-battery-low-profile/rc-car-products/425407 Measuring up I think they will fit DT-03, Blitzer and TT-02, Top Force might be a small problem, but probably solvable. Need to turn down the punch and brakes I think otherwise gearbox destruction will ensue I think! Going to be using them through a 10BL120 with 13.5t Speed passion motors - and possibly a 10.5t Tamiya but I think that might be a stretch too far - so will probably use a 2S with 10.5t in the Egress which will probably not take the 3s battery....

Reviving the thread here - what 3s batteries do people use????? I know the core RC is the go to 2s - I have had 5 of them.... just wondering whether to try a 3s in the Top Force, DT-03, Blitzer Beetle, ( and possibly xv-01) with 10BL120 ESC....

this is the one I have: https://www.metabo-hpt.com/es/us/main-navigation/herramientas?category=/herramientas/cordless/3-6-volt&title=DB3DL2 3.6V Lithium Ion Screwdriver (1.5Ah) I think from recommendation from here (TC) - certainly ideal power / torque settings for RC looks like the core might well be the same as you suggest - just external moldings differ slightly...

This looks very like the Hitachi one I have

I am wondering if this body would work well as a basher on my Tundra. Can you advise what the centre wheel arch to centre wheel arch distance is please?

I also think the steering is not great so I might go 4 wheel steering..... as I do have an extra axle mount kit ….

I found the email on a different site - infact a googled @junfac.com and came up with this: http://www.gmade.net/where-to-buy/distributor/?ckattempt=3

I am pretty sure that I have not used the spacers in the places they might advise you to - because of my afore mentioned changes, the servo height over the axle because of the diff locker etc.

I should point out as above as well that the battery will not fit in the normal place - I am thinking right at the back parallel to the chassis - longitudinal

Hi I sent an email to sales at junfac but have had no response yet. I think I have pretty much figured it out although as I have Junfac/Gmade 93mm aero shocks the ride height is increased slightly this has the effect of angling the front shocks, the bottom of the shocks are further back so I have put some spacers at the bottom to make the shocks more vertical. This is a fairly fine adjustment as otherwise it will interfere with the on axle steering. Another problem i have is that because I have remote difflocks there is a bar / pin protruding from the diff housing (it is a lever that gets pulled to lock the diff via a cable) the on axle steering servo has to be mounted higher up which means the gear shift servo above has to be higher and as a consequence it does not seem to be shifting gear too well (the rod between the servo arm and the gearshift shaft is at an angle) I was wondering whether to put the gear shift servo behind the gearbox somehow. These problems are impacted either way by the fact that i increased the ride height further by moving the top suspension mount down to the lower holes, is obviously increases the on axle servo clearance as a plus but increases the suspension geometry angles etc as mentioned above..... I will try to remember to measure the spacers when I get home from memory the longest ones are twice the length of the medium ones and the shortest ones half the the length of the medium ones. - just re-read your post I would say the Junfac dimensions are correct - the long is probably 10mm (7.5mm in diameter) and the medium half at 5mm and the short 2.5mm and slightly less diameter than the other two.

https://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=88_119 This has to be the same lot......

My brother and I had these as kids too can't tell you anything about them though ! I will see if it is still in the box of old bits... I suspect not though...

My brother and I had these as kids too can't tell you anything about them though ! I will see if it is still in the box of old bits... I suspect not though...

my 2 boards came complete - but they were more expensive back when I got the them

It does require a 5 second don't touch anything (calibrates itself) at start-up otherwise it will not work. Works really well and it now seems cheaper - I am in the UK and had 2 of them - any questions ask the chap - he answered mine. I guess crab steer might not work too well with the middle wheel dragging around?

you need one of these - it worked really well with my 3ch radio and a CR-01 - the third channel on the radio was a 2 position switch - which enabled me to cycle through: front steer, rear steer, four steer and crab. https://bastens.com/products/bastens-quadsteer I know have a six channel radio so I can have lights as well but still use the above as I could never get the mixing to work in the same way as above.

Just started building my 3-speed tundra with Junfac 4 link - can anyone find the manual on Junfac's site - I can't????

Bizarre isn't it the other one is bent too but still firmly wedged into the nylon part - the front of the DT-03t they came off was reasonably heavy with lots of Alloy so I wonder it had an effect on hitting particularly sharp bumps etc.

Is this any good: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?search=1&search_string=Carson+Gear+Shift+Gate I have one that I intend to use on a transmitter for a 3speed

Cool thanks ordered some.

Hi Cy, Just doing some work to my similarly modified DT-03T (as previously inspired by this thread of yours). I am looking to get both 54395 & 53301 Tamiya suspension shafts. But I also have lost a GPM king pin from the C-Hub - what part numbers did you replace these with - mentioned on page 1?? cheers G.

well 4 & 6 yo playing as well! - got it all back together - it was going really well too.... but now I need at least one upright possibly 2 …. are any of the alloy ones better I appear to have bent the steel shaft but not broken the plastic part.....

Had new DT-03 Chassis delivered yesterday as the day before the first run of the season - the below occurred - although I suspect it might have been partially damaged last season ….

Just wondering if there are any suitable bodies out there in Polycarbonate to use instead of the Hard body Tundra as i'd like to have a basher body too.... plus it's going to take me a long time to paint the Hardbody...