gizard
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Posts posted by gizard
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Hi Thunder
It looks as if your running 8.4v on a TBLE-02s I did think it would handle it - (I was concerned for my own TBLE-02s's when I started using 7.4 LIPO)
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2 hours ago, jomotion said:
Apparently you are supposed to use grub screws that tighten into the M8 part - in which will tighten that rear stabilizer down. It wasn't clear in the instructions - but you can see where on this pic (the red areas).
Hmm very observant of you - I just dug out the instructions and indeed there are 5 grub screws - 2 for each bar / one on each of the ball joints - so I had 1 spare in the packet, I have screwed it in now - will have to see what happens - note there are 2 holes but only 1 grub screw.
on another note as I had to remove the gearbox from the chassis I noticed that a fair amount of the 500k diff oil has leaked out - might have to get a ball diff instead...
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haha I have been meaning to investigate this, mine even with a bit of aerial tube around the middle to thicken it up still flaps about in the breeze not really doing anything...
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Hmm presumably one could use these:
https://tamico.de/GPM-Stahl-CVDs-Antriebswellen-38mm-2-fuer-Tamiya-GF-01-TL-01
combined with these:
https://tamico.de/GPM-Stahl-CVDs-Antriebswellen-2-Stk-fuer-Tamiya-DT-02-DT-03-TT-02B
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I think I got my last lot from modellbau-seidel which isn't much help.
Wheelspin list them but no stock. Fusion also list - not sure whether they have stock.
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hmm looking at the Egress Manual - they only supply them for the front - and they are not in the 2011 manual for the Avante at all - I've yet to build my Avante to see if the Kit I have is any different to the Online Manual I have found.
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22 minutes ago, Peter_B said:
Interesting. Not seen those before.
Do they just sit in the drive cups in the same way as o-rings?
Yes - I discovered them as a set came with the Egress I built - they are softer than an o-ring of course so will compress better, however if you need them to be thinner you can just slice them in half. - I took some out recently when cleaning or something - and other than being no longer white they where pretty much still the same - ie had not been crushed and therefore ineffective. Before finding that you could buy them on there own I tried to use some bits of cut to shape blue packing foam in another model but these remained compressed permanently after a while.
I too hate the slope in the drive shafts / dog bones as I'm sure it increases the rate of wear, I try and use as little grease on exposed parts as possible as it attracts girt and dust too much.
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On 23/07/2017 at 9:05 PM, Nitomor said:
Assuming you're running Tamiya's being on TC forum, I'd recommend you get this battery, it fits every Tamiya chassis that a normal nimh battery would, I have a few of these and they work on everything in my fleet including the notoriously tight Hornet and lunchbox;
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-4000mahr-7-4v-30-60c-2s-lipo/rc-car-products/388538
Wow - bought a couple of these the other day along with the HK lipo alarms - using them on various cars and wow what a difference they make - maybe my nimh packs are just tired. - My Blitzer with it's 13.5t MMM motor really needs a wheelie bar now! FYI I am using TBLE-02s across the board. as a negative it really shows that steering and camber etc. needs to be setup even better!
cheers
G
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11 minutes ago, Peter_B said:
Thanks, I remember reading your build thread in the past. Nice looking Aqroshot there, and very handy that you've listed the parts used.
I don't think I'd want to be getting all the alloy parts though.
Are any of the upgrades necessary, or just nice to have?
The front and rear lower wishbone arms are probably not worth bothering.
The GPM steering arms (DT3160ST) are nice and chunky (they use the std. kit ball ends.)
Also the suspension mounts(GPM DT3027, DT3030,DT3028) and the chassis braces front (GPM DT3008) and rear (Tamiya 54566) beef it up a worth while amount. Along with the Tamiya Metal axle parts (9804237,9805551 & 50823) Also the servo mount DT3024.
Also the C-hubs (GPM DT3019) are probably a good idea.
The anti roll bars seem to make little difference (i'm only bashing)
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I have both a DT03T and a Blitzer Beetle. The Blitzer Beetle with a 13.5t brushless and a lexan Parma body wheelies easily. Both cars have the same wheels and tyres. The DT03T doesn't wheelie as much as it's a longer chassis and has more weight with the alu parts etc. and as a consequence handles much better than the blitzer - see build thread here:
cheers
G.
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Has anyone used one of these switches instead of doing the above - might be a little easier?
http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=168
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I have bought these:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/matek-micro-bec-5v-12v-adj.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-led-light-bar-set-black.html
my school boy electronics and lack of LED specifications have confused me will I need some resistors between the BEC and LEDs or not?
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3 hours ago, gizard said:
I think the only option to sort the 4WS is one of these:
http://www.bastens.com/bastens-quadsteer.html
But does anyone know how where to get them in the UK - or at least EU?
Ahh - Just ordered 2 from the States so I will report back once I have got them and tried it out.
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I think the only option to sort the 4WS is one of these:
http://www.bastens.com/bastens-quadsteer.html
But does anyone know how where to get them in the UK - or at least EU?
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2 hours ago, bjorklo said:
Looks great, not to bad a price. But i don't want each stick to be 2 ch, not front and backwards and sideways on each stick . I would rather have it like a regular 2ch controller and the rest of the channels on different 2 and 3 way switches (for lights, horn and the gears)
Wow, this one would take me ages to learn all the functionality on
It's probably to good for me.
The Aquila 6 can have other channels mapped to the switches I believe (although I am trying to findout without much luck the detail) - so you could use the supplied plates to lock out the directions on the sticks you do not want to use and then configure the remaining switches for the other channels - I would like to know other than the included plates what else the 'Surface' edition of this controller does but it's every difficult getting any information from the website....
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I'm guessing this might be an option but more expensive
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On 10/07/2017 at 9:16 AM, TWINSET said:
You're unlikely to find a multi-channel radio with only 2 channels on the sticks but take a look at this one, it's got a fair few extra channels on switches;
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/i6s-afhds-2a-white-mode2-6ch-radio-with-colour-box.html
This bit especially;
2 and 3 position switches, momentary switches and self-centering proportional wheel switches (2 of each)Manual; https://hobbyking.com/media/file/198592089X4640085X50.pdf
This looks fantastic value - anyone know more about it?
I am toying with the idea of a 3 speed highlift with:
- 4 wheel steering - like to be able to mix both axles on the same stick, then using a 3 position switch: reverse rear axle for crab or turn it off.
- then use the other a 3 position switch for gear selection (instead of using a stick with a gate although this of course could be used)
- then 2 position for diff lock on/off (tempted by the German remote diff lock hop up)
- 2 position for lights on off
with throttle that makes 6 channels! at my count - am I up a gum tree or does anyone think this is achievable?
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49 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:
Interesting choice of colours. Personally I'd fit the rear wing as I think it finishes off the rear end nicely - you don't need to paint it, just apply the chrome sticker.
Also, I like your inclusion of a full parts list. Very useful if someone else wants to perform similar mods to their rig.
I must confess I used ThunderDragonCy's build thread as a basis for mine - I like his use of the Grasshopper 2 shell:
However as I mentioned in that thread I wanted to try the Blitzer Beetle shell on the DT-03 chassis - I have balanced my Parma Bug shell on top and although the front wheels are forward of the bonnet it might look alright!
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16. I painted the body with Parma Faschrome Silver and backed it with faswhite then Fascoat clear.
17. Applied Stickers as per manual but yet to paint or fit rear wing – not sure it needs it.
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15. I had already built the yellow Stadium Blitzer wheels with Schumacher tyres and inserts earlier, I also balanced them – as I have observed with my recent Blitzer Beetle build not only are the wheels them selves rather unbalanced but these Schumacher truck tyres have a fair amount of side ways wobble too – but much the wheels are balanced the sideways wobble appears reduced and shaking of the whole car is very much reduced under full throttle. Also Fitted TBLE-02S Speed controller and Tamco receiver.
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13. Fitted the front Stabilizer – noted that it seems to have little effect, but read else where someone fitted a piece of kit aerial tube on the section that is clamped in the chassis either side of the center collar – will have to try this.
14. Fitted rear Stabilizer again noted that it appears to have little effect will have to try something similar to above. I should mention that I had to completely remove the gearbox from the Chassis in order to fit it!
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10. Built the included extra DT-03 CVA Dampers, as others have mentioned the black coating on the rear shafts seems to hinder smoothness – plus I have subsequently changed the rear springs for some spare TT-02B CVA rear springs I had spare as the supplied ones are too soft and the car droops about 50% of the travel! – probably all the bling I have fitted does not help!
11. Fitted the shocks all round and changed the GPM supplied brass spacers for the rear shocks at each end of the shock for shorter ones I had spare as I didn’t like the amount of fore and aft movement the longer ones allow. At the front shocks, I also did similar for the top of the shocks, on the bottom end however because of the shock end fitting in-between the lower arm the brass spacer needs padding out – I currently have a bunch of shims of 5mm internal diameter padding it out – but this is not suitable enough IMO so have ordered some smaller internal diameter shims and rubber o-rings to try (the outside diameter of the brass spacer is slightly less than 4mm).
12. Attached the body mount posts front and rear – tapped the holes again and used machine screws.
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8. Attached gearbox to main chassis - again tapped the holes and used machine screws and fitted the Tamiya gearbox bridge.
9. Fitted GPM Rear Shock tower – interestingly the rear one only has two bolts whereas the front has 4 – this seems a bit wrong in my opinion seeing as the rear is bound to take more abuse – so I also used nyloc nuts with washers on the rear. Fitted the Front shock tower too.
It's probably to good for me.
Transmitter with lots of model memory and cheap receivers
in All things electric...
Posted
I have 2 TAC330's as well I'd like t get a third as my 2.5 yr old now want to play - no one seems to have any Tamco gear anymore what's happened to them I got mine from modelsport have about 8 or 9 of the receivers.
I use the TAC330 with a CR01 with 4ws and have recently fitted a Bastens quad steer module which works well with the 3rd ch switch and allows cycling through Front/Rear/4WS/Crab modes.
(yes you read that right he is not bad at driving the cars) I do turn the EPA right down to about 35% others wise he tends to ram into is elder brother rather too easily!