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gizard

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Posts posted by gizard

    Tamiya Chassis Lipo compatibility

    in All things electric...

    Posted

    I've ordered a couple of these to try - 

    https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-sport-track-4000mah-3s-11-1v-50c-lipo-battery-low-profile/rc-car-products/425407

    Measuring up I think they will fit DT-03, Blitzer and TT-02, Top Force might be a small problem, but probably solvable.

    Need to turn down the punch and brakes I think otherwise gearbox destruction will ensue I think! ;) 

    Going to be using them through a 10BL120 with 13.5t Speed passion motors - and possibly a 10.5t Tamiya but I think that might be a stretch too far - so will probably use a 2S with 10.5t in the Egress which will probably not take the 3s battery....

    • Like 1

    Powered Screw Drivers

    in General discussions

    Posted

    On 6/20/2019 at 5:22 PM, Mokei Kagaku said:

    By far the best electric screwdriver I've ever tried and excellent for working on Tamiya models. Not cheap, but in a direct comparison with the Bosch Ixo it wasn't difficult to understand why. If you can live without the Tamiya logo and get long JIS-bits separately, the screwdriver itself is a rebadged and recoloured Makita DF010D, which can be found for roughly 1/3 of the price.

    https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74089screwdriver/index.htm

     

    top.jpg 1.gif

    This looks very like the Hitachi one I have 

    Junfac 4 Link Conversion For Highlift F350/hilux

    in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers

    Posted

    Hi 

    I sent an email to sales at junfac but have had no response yet. 

    I think I have pretty much figured it out although as I have Junfac/Gmade 93mm aero shocks the ride height is increased slightly this has the effect of angling the front shocks, the bottom of the shocks are further back so I have put some spacers at the bottom to make the shocks more vertical. This is a fairly fine adjustment as otherwise it will interfere with the on axle steering. 

    Another problem i have is that because I have remote difflocks there is a bar / pin protruding from the diff housing (it is a lever that gets pulled to lock the diff via a cable) the on axle steering servo has to be mounted higher up which means the gear shift servo above has to be higher and as a consequence it does not seem to be shifting gear too well (the rod between the servo arm and the gearshift shaft is at an angle) I was wondering whether to put the gear shift servo behind the gearbox somehow.

    These problems are impacted either way by the fact that i increased the ride height further by moving the top suspension mount down to the lower holes, is obviously increases the on axle servo clearance as a plus but increases the suspension geometry angles etc as mentioned above.....

    I will try to remember to measure the spacers when I get home from memory the longest ones are twice the length of the medium ones and the shortest ones half the the length of the medium ones.

    - just re-read your post I would say the Junfac dimensions are correct - the long is probably 10mm (7.5mm in diameter) and the medium half at 5mm and the short 2.5mm and slightly less diameter than the other two.

    • Thanks 1

    4ws

    in General discussions

    Posted

    It does require a 5 second don't touch anything (calibrates itself) at start-up otherwise it will not work. Works really well and it now seems cheaper - I am in the UK and had 2 of them - any questions ask the chap - he answered mine. I guess crab steer might not work too well with the middle wheel dragging around?

     

     

    4ws

    in General discussions

    Posted

    you need one of these - it worked really well with my 3ch radio and a CR-01 - the third channel on the radio was a 2 position switch - which enabled me to cycle through: front steer, rear steer, four steer and crab.

    https://bastens.com/products/bastens-quadsteer

     

    I know have a six channel radio so I can have lights as well but still use the above as I could never get the mixing to work in the same way as above.

     

     

    The "Postman Brought Me" Thread

    in General discussions

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Juggular said:

    Just Wow....

    I knew nylon parts were strong, but that's unexpected.  

    I've seen an aluminum spur gear for Grasshopper/Lunchbox.  Didn't get it, because I suspected the original nylon gears were stronger.  Your picture confirms it.  

     

     

    Bizarre isn't it the other one is bent too but still firmly wedged into the nylon part - the front of the DT-03t they came off was reasonably heavy with lots of Alloy so I wonder it had an effect on hitting particularly sharp bumps etc. 

    • Like 1

    The "Postman Brought Me" Thread

    in General discussions

    Posted

    21 hours ago, Biz73 said:

    All that aluminum makes your chassis the weak point. Keep a close eye one the new one.

    well 4 & 6 yo playing as well! - got it all back together - it was going really well too.... but now I need at least one upright possibly 2 …. are any of the alloy ones better I appear to have bent 1701167405_dt-03tupright.jpg.89909872d855330078291f70bd5d8a33.jpgthe steel shaft but not broken the plastic part.....

    • Like 1
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