gizard
-
Posts
444 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by gizard
-
-
Full ball races will certainly help (required if you go for hotter motor - but really make a big difference anyway). My TT-02B is very blinged up with lots of aluminium bits - which are not really required - except perhaps the drive shaft if going over stock for the motor. - That said I have been running it with a 13.5 brushless and it's taken a fair amount of abuse it is generally fine. I have currently got metal diffs from another model - can't remember which one - but the recommendation came from here. I have tried ball diffs and front one ways - but in reality if you are going to go for more power the metal diffs are best. It is a good basher and there are lots of parts available but I have found myself planning with other 4wd buggies now which are older but better imo (they should be as they are more expensive) - Egress & Top Force.
-
1
-
-
I am going to run a 13.5 brushless sensored with a TBLE-02s - I haven't tried it yet as I am still building but being Tamiya I am sure it will all fit fine - I do run a 13.5 with a TBLE-02S in a TT-02B and also in a Blitzer Beetle and a DT-03T and they all work fine.
-
2 minutes ago, Rb4276 said:
Yea after i finished my egress and went to take it for a test run and break in the ball diffs i realized i needed to tighten the rear and it was a snap to do
Pun intended?!
-
Parts have not arrived yet due to Bank holiday here I expect.
-
I am guessing it will come out where the outdrives go in. (I am talking about the geared diffs.) I presume as the silicon oil gets warmed up with use it becomes more liquid ?
-
32 minutes ago, Juggular said:
Oh wow, that's interesting. That's not an ORV.
It's got a custom 4-link suspension. With a gearbox from Grasshopper? I wonder if it offered any advantage over the traditional ORV chassis.
Bombproof gearbox? That's got me intrigued as I have an old frog that's been rebuilt with all sorts of parts (re-re bits etc and a blue chassis) but I also have a gearbox from my old grasshopper - pretty much the only remaining part - grasshopper chassis is long gone
-
1
-
-
16 minutes ago, WillyChang said:
did that parts lot cost much?
Could've just made it an excuse to buy an AVante...
£51.98 From Tony's Tamiya parts. I already have a NIB Avante for a very rainy day..... Between the two the Egress is the runner!
-
The Ball diffs are fine in use - it just when I try and adjust them I seem to over tighten and snap the screw - seems very easy to do for me. It is possible that I am actually completely compressing the spring so there is no give and then snapping the screw by turning further - perhaps if I measure accurately what thread should be visible at the top once fully tightened.
Either way I have ordered some parts to construct gear diffs for front and rear to try them out - the only thing I don't have is the 2x6mm counter sunk screws to hold them together - should be able to get some from my LHS.
-
Sorry I have hijacked the thread a bit !
I already have an Egress and it is reasonably robust. Except I have broken a few ball diff bolts (as per another thread).
Is the DB01RR actually still being produced, ie is it possible a UK retailer might be able to get one for a reasonable price?
-
On page 5 it say: 'As this kit is for experienced users, design tolerances of parts are very tight. Files and drills will be used for fine adjustment. Make threads using M3x0.5mm Thread Forming Tap.'
I have a full set of metric taps and dies so used a tap, but only part way into the holes. - although I see that on the ones I have done it would be possible to put a longer bolt all the way through and put a nut on the other side if required...
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, WillyChang said:
AVante geared diff is enclosed but no rubber seals nor gaskets; it's also a planetary diff without bevel gears. I lube them with moly grease and none escape the case so any silicone goop >10,000 should stay in too IMHO.
Hmm yes been looking are the parts - thanks
just wonder if it's viable though - the actual diff case and cover appear to be separate parts so I would need:
1. diff cases (BG1x2) 19335053
2. diff case covers (H8 & H6) 19005277
3. planetary gears (PD1x8 & PD2x4)19405431
4. diff outdrives rear (PB10 & PB11) 19804449
5. diff outdrives front. (PB8 & PB9)19804450
6. Screws (BC4 2x6mm) x8 19608100
ahh at least 2. the diff case covers are included in the Egress kit - I will check when I get home that they are still there - should be.
-
Trouble with ordering a DB01RR from RCJAZ to the UK is that with shipping it's 257 then with VAT it's 309 + 6.5 duty and then probably the hold charge of 13 or what ever it is so it then becomes 330 ish…..
on the plus side seems there are plenty of spares available uk wise...
-
Hmm thinking more about it and doing more researching I guess ball diffs are an acquired taste for general bashing! I did have a ball diff in a TT02b for a while but ultimately it is running metal geared both front and rear with thick grease and is bomb proof (well the drive train is the lower arms etc are a different matter when I let the sons have a go!). I guess getting the avante gear diffs and putting them in the egress might be an option although can the avante geared diffs be sealed up to contain the fluid I need to look into this.
-
1
-
-
I looked at DB01RR a while back and then got a Top Force instead - currently building an XV-01 I suddenly find myself wanting a DB01RR - this forum is going to make me broke....! can you but normal Tamiya hex's on the DB01 so you can fit normal wheels?
-
1
-
-
any suggestions ? I have gone through about 4 of these now Part PB2 as per the manual or 9804470 is the parts number which contains 2 and the nuts and springs. diff feels loose so I tighten it - not by much and snap! This time I have put some Tamiya anti-wear grease to see if it stiffen's it up for a bit longer....
-
On 4/12/2019 at 11:07 PM, 73robb said:
Evening all,
I need some advice....
I currently have a LRP Ai runner v2 with a dirt tuned motor, but although I have steering working the motor is now doing nothing. I’ve reset the Tx & Rx (core cr152), checked motor wires & brushes but no joy, just a steady green light on the esc. So I’m thinking it may have developed a fault (or could it be an issue with battery voltage? Running 4500 nimh)??
Assuming I cannot resolve the issue, can anyone recommend a fairly cheap reliable esc to run brushed motors on Nimh? I’m want something that is plug & play, or at least is easy to setup.
Cheers
Rob
Have you got the Core Stick controller? might seem like a silly question but if you have - have you accidentally switched the throttle hold switch on the right hand side? as if set to 0% in the settings effectively will kill all throttle input? -
Plus if you play around with the settings on the Transmitter - ABS etc. If you have the Tamiya TBLE-02S then it can require that you - re-run the stick travel setup on the Tamiya ESC as per the instructions.
-
1
-
-
2 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:
Sorry, you would need someone with more experience of these than me to help you there.
No worries gone a bit crazy and ordered some from RCJAZ - this XV-01 build of mine is turning out rather expensive....
-
On 4/3/2019 at 9:00 PM, ThunderDragonCy said:
Long damper spec just uses the long damper shock towers 54581 and 54582. It uses the stock CVA mini shocks 50519 front and rear and TRF201 springs 54221, although the mini shocks come with a couple of spring options.
XV01 long damper manual is download able from this page
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4wd-rally-road-xv/rc-xv-01-chassis-kit-2/
Whoops sorry just re-read the thread are shock towers 54581 and 54582 any different in shape to the standard items ? or could I use the GF-01 shocks with the standard shock towers to get increased ground clearance?
-
19 hours ago, Juls1 said:
For the long damper kit the go to shock is the gf01 alloy damper set, the cc01 damper kit is identical but different color. It could also be used on the regular xv01 towers with short ends. But without modification, they have a bit too much travel for a stock kit.
Sway bars are mandatory if you increase the travel. Trf502x front springs are the best option for gf01 dampers on the xv01 but without sway bars they might be too soft for some users.
Juls
Right I am confused !!! I thought the Kit I ordered 58569 - being the rally version was 'Long damper spec' - but I guess it is not!
What do I need other than the GF-01 dampers 54670 and stabilizers 54514 - obviously springs but probably need something for dirt mainly but some tarmac so medium stiffness I guess. Do the shock towers need replacing?
-
I already have the TRF 42102 Dampers which I had on a TT-02.
For the XV-01 do you swap part v5 to v6 to give more ground clearance ?
Also what springs are recommended for the XV-01?
The 42102 kit comes with yellow. There is a kit 54465 with 2x Soft 2x Medium and 2x Hard - is it generally wise to have the same stiffness front and rear (therefore you need to spring kits) or stiffer on the front due to the motor being up there?
-
Mine arrived today too from Time Tunnel - good deal
got an XV-01 too now have 4 models awaiting build......
whoops actually make that 5 models awaiting build.....
-
Actually according to Overlander's site the sport track is 138mm long - so I guess more Core RC seems to the only option....
-
Mine arrived today too from Time Tunnel - good deal
got an XV-01 too now have 4 models awaiting build......
-
13 minutes ago, Big Jon said:
The differentials are identical front and rear. The TA06 rear diff is used in several models, while the TA06 front diff has a pulley on it and (I think) is only used on the TA06.
The rear separate suspension mount is the least likely to break, so you should be ok.
Cool thanks. Just need to select a servo now - as I believe none of the ones I have will work as they are too big!
Scipunk builds a XV-01 Lancia (and learns a lot)
in General discussions
Posted
Anyone know how to tension the drive belt - ie how to know what tension it should be??