sellig

Hi every body! Here is a small craft that I carry with me when I travel by motorhome... Cheap, fun and strong. Hope you'll enjoy!

Thanks LeftyAl

Hmmmm! Front wheels are useless!

1st acceleration test burn out on kitchen floor... You know what? My wife loves !

Final result: Gas tank, no apparent wire. Wonderful wheels made of solid aluminum alloy! That's all folks!Thanks for reading, hope you'll enjoy!

Shock absorber.This little FAV was equipped with Tamiya hop up shock absorber. I found these ones much to stiff. So I ordered 4 from Ebay.At rear I changed the springs and I installed 2 springs tared at 2 Kg, without preload.At front, the springs are original, but I reduced the length. (no preload). Note that front and rear are the same (72mm). Now the damping is soft as I like...

Hi everybody!So we were in July of 2016... And the project is stopped until September, when i found on a flea market a box full of RC parts, i bought it.(10€ after negociation).Inside: A brand new body for WO and some other useful parts. (like screws, pins, body mount , scale crawler lights... ) Unfortunately I will have to change the chassis because the ABS has been weakened by the previous painting ... (It is the only piece except the bearings that I will buy for this restoration and obviously theses awesome aluminium wheels)However motivation is back! Painting and re-assembly as programm. But a probleme remains : important play between arms and shafts.What could i done? Here is my solution:I needed: pipe cutter, 6X5 mm & 4X3 mm brass tubing, column drill, furnace , freezer, maybe a beer too! 1) Cut 4 parts from 6x5mm tubing (1 for each arm) with the pipe cutter.2) Drill each arm to 5.9 mm; Use the column drill for an accurate result.3) Place the 4 brass parts in the freezer for a night.4) Place the 4 arm in the furnace (15 min at 40°C or 104°F).5) Insert brass parts in each arm ( be fast) let it cool.6) Take your beer. Front: Apply the same technic for kingpin but drill ONLY the plastic part and insert 4X3 mm tubing section (two for each). Rear: But only one problem for the rear is fixed, you must block the shaft to fixation.Drill support & shaft together at 2.5mm and thread the shaft to M3. Use a M3X8 screw. (the column drill is more than useful). Grind a little bit the reinforcement (each side). That's all folks! See you next time...

Hi boyz! Sellig is back and presents his new restauration... Here is the base... In poor condition. But I always loved this buggy. So let's go! First of all, see what can be kept, at this step I don't now what will happen with this frame.But i sanded it with a sandblasting gun & baking soda, polished the roll cage with... Shoe shine, refilled the right gap with plasticard.Last but not least : I built a wonderful roof (isn't it?) from aluminium sheet. However the drive train isn't so bad (but no bearings).All the suspension arms show an important slack, the shocks (What shocks !?) are worn to die, all wheels & tyres too.The hood is out of order... That's all for tonight, see you later!

The 1st version was blocked in USA because of the soundtrack, so my us friends, here is a new edit with a new sound only for you (but others countries can watch too). It 's a small nursery rhyme, slightly twisted... Hope that you'll enjoy it.

I will edit this video for you American friends...😉

Hi boyz! Holiday (buggy) memories... 🤙

I forgot : If you want to use it as a rock crawler (that's what i do) One useful thing that you can do cheaply is to remove foam from tires ,and to ballast your rims with some lead wire (fishing shop) 😉

I own one since 3 years, It's an amazing "little crawling machine". He has no particular point of weakness, the gears are strong, including plastic gears, differentials make the job too, if correctly lubricated (I filled them with 1 million Cst silicone oil to improve traction). The only three points to improve are : Electronics, in particular the ESC (and then the 390 becomes smooth . I use the smallest gearing), the shock absorbers, And I changed the shafts for steel ones (the only parts worn to death :D). In short : Bravo it's a great deal. 👍

What a funny thing... I Love It! Well done!

Hi Granddad, I'm not sure about understanding everything, but why not use CVD? I encounter the same problems on my DT-02/03. Apart from the fact that these shafts are stronger they also have a better efficiency. Before: After: Obviously, you must change cups too. EG : https://www.gpmracing-parts.com/tamiya-dt02dt03tt02b-alloy-steel-45-rear-cvd-drive-shaft-pr-gpm-dt3264sc-p-90068345.html

WP 1060 was my first choice... Thanks for the link!

Thanks for your answer Blacklash. I misspoke. What I research is max intensity absorbed to choose the good ESC.

Hi buddies, I need help: I bought for my next buggy a brushed "Team O'donnell Checkpoint 12X1 motor" (used but like new & for an indecent price. :D) I tried it on my DT-02 and hummm... It's much more powerfull than my 3300 kV brushless! So the question is: Is anyone knows electrical specs of this engine? I dont find anything about it. Thanks for all!

Fantastic! Thanks.

Hi pininfarina, can you tell me the bearing size for the Sakura's FGX front knuckles? Thanks by advance. ;)

This is my scientific side. ( I learned everything by watching "The X Files"). But, in this case, it's simply " pre-GPS female guidance". 🤣

If you scrupulously fold the map... It's not that far!

Hmmmm, It reminds me something... I used a similar liquid almost 40 years ago. It was a Mercedes-Benz approved product that we used as a sealant for metal / metal assemblies. It smelled like wet earth.

Hi Granddad. I'm 100% in agreement with Greg. Here's the trick I use to keep the bearings in place safely. (And remains removable without problem). You need : A polyethylene sheet. (plastic bag) A pair of scissors A sharp scalpel

What a Nice job... And résult. I'm on a similar philosophy for my next project. I will use this topic as a guide...