Rb4276

From just the photos is def does look great. I think I saw the reel actually. Are you going to run it? I run all my stuff.

Don’t know why I am starting this while my optima mid still sits for a year to build lol. Probably the nostalgia of 87’ since that was when I was deep in rc as a kid and the Ultima was everywhere in RC Action. I got a few upgrades to use tungsten balls, grooved o rings, stabilizer, motor mount, ball bearings for steering, aluminum servo mounts & hard slipper pads. Glad I had 2 spare brushless spurs from my optima because they are no where to be found again. Also got all the gear diff parts if i switch over since a few have complained about melting. I had ordered a hobbywing bandit 10.5t but hobbywing sent me the wrong turn. So waiting on them to rectify that hopefully. Got a cheap servo from amazon

I probably posted it because tearing the optima down is terrible lol

Got one of my jj ultima packages from plaza today. Gear diff is backup if the ball diff fails. I also got the clear o rings for the shocks which kyosho recommended.

As long as you have the covers on and sealed properly you will be fine. A few years ago i took my optima to a baseball field and park and i had to do a complete tear down because the lower cover wasn’t on. The gearboxes were almost locked up. There was so much sand and dirt in them. Ever since then no issues at all.

Right before covid hit I ordered a clodbuster black. Everything from the build to performance was absolute garbage. Probably didn’t help that I had a TXT 2 already. I literally sold it 2 days later. I have to admit I was upset when literally a day or 2 after selling it that jconcepts released the monster truck kit for the clod. I would of definitely kept to convert.

So Associated is releasing the clear RC10, i am sure it will sell well but I have no interest. Maybe they will do something else too. MAP price of $319.99

I so regret not buying the rc10 worlds at my local track or Amain for $175 years ago. I was hesitant to buy cause so many reviews said the gearbox was messed up. I also wasnt back into rc when they released the original rc10, by the time I got back into rc they were well over $500. I hope they release something, i only ever owned the original rc10t as a kid. I wouldnt be interested in this clear car though.

Jj is here..

I always used tower or my local store but after all this talk recently I just cancelled my Ultima JJ preorder from Tower and ordered it from Amain. Ultima will be here tomorrow. Tower still hasnt contacted me about cancelling 3 days ago from their automated service. I honestly dont care either way because the credit card I preordered with actually expired in September so it is worthless. Also my birthday code and points were MIA. Only negative was Amain was like $50 more.

I don’t have any photos but I used duratrax purple on my losi mini t a few years ago that worked well and was definitely purple.

I store my cars in Ikea Kallax shelves, since I already have them for my 4000 records. Cars fit perfect inside and look good. My trucks go on top of the shelves. I also have a few cars on floating shelves.

I have tons of spares for both my avante and egress. I would say two of the most important are the front gearbox case and the ball ends for the suspension. I cracked my gearbox case once and bent 3 or 4 of the ball ends. The ball ends are pricey ever since covid. I bought a set of 16 from a breaker off of ebay for like $20 years ago.

Looks great, but I still have ‘t built my mid with pretty much every kyosho option. The only ones I don’t have are the carbon chassis, and I don’t have the titanium rods. The rods I actually forgot about and will order when I build mine. Also is that paint Tamiya Cobalt Green? It looks a little different.

Good luck with that. I stripped mine after just testing the car on my bench. I then ordered a new set and glued it as many have said to do, seemed to work for a battery or two only to fail again. Schumacher should be ashamed to release this car with this issue. So many people all over the internet have had the same problems. I finally installed the pro trans and it has been fine. Granted I had the pro trans in hand all along but only wanted to use it if I went brushless. Luckily i bought it for $60 US last December. I see it is up to $80 or so US now.

Hopefully Hobbywing responds, I placed an email “ticket” for a response when an 10BL120 esc fried as soon as I turned it on 2 yrs ago and i am still waiting for a response lol. I went to my local shop and they exchanged it for me after proving I hooked it up correctly. Support is pretty ******* poor.

Egress is a great build & probably my all time fave classic Tamiya. The motor at an angle is correct.

No water, was driving on the street only.

Not offended at all, i purchased from hobbywing usa on amazon. I just ordered another today. If this one fails im done.

The radio & receiver is all good. It is a futaba 3 prka. If I cant get this figured out this will be the 3rd 1060 over the yrs that I had to toss that basically has the same issue. I wanted to keep this cougar brushed.

So I have a hobbywing 1060 in my cougar classic, it was working fine up until yesterday. I somehow lost all power and is blinking red. I’ve had this happen with a 1060 years ago and could not get it to recalibrate so I tossed it. I have tried to recalibrate or reset but i get no beeps on set up. Once in a while the throttle will work but cut out within a second. Does anyone know how to get it to calibrate it to factory settings or is it even possible?

I keep seeing people build these and not once has anyone mentioned the main issue with the gearbox stripping under any kind of bigger power of the original tt02b if tamiya fixed this or is it still an issue. Just curious cause i had a fully modded tt02b ms edition that i sold during covid. I did the mod to fix it by filing the bevel pinion gear from another car years ago which i then ran a castle 4600kv brushless with no issues.

Thanks, just preordered

The stock one has clearance issues. I had to use a aluminum arm that was extra long to allow the steering arms to clear with different ball ends.

There is a fitment issue with the original steering arms too, if they havent fixed that in 30+ years why bother with this either lol.