kanerdog1x1

Sorry if Iv got you all excited, but it’s me who wants to buy them. I am looking for both top and bottom plates from the top force evolution kit, the carbon ones that have the ‘top force evolution’ detail printed onto the top plate. Preferably after new items, but perfect could also work. What have you got?

+1 on any fwd small car, mk1/2 xr2, nova, rs turbo, clio, not fussy. Just not some half attempt like kamtec do. Their 1/10th scale golf and corrado look ok but the 1/12th scale bodies leave a lot to be desired.

Apparently, it allows the shock mounts to move ever so slightly, independently from one another. I have always used the carbon F&R damper mounts which negate the setting.

Photo isn't loading, but I think it's the one at the very front of the chassis holding the two halves together? It's a machine screw as it can be used to affect chassis flex. Initial setting is to tighten it fully, but you can back it off a quarter of a turn to add a touch of steering.

Perhaps your pinion set screw is too long and is catching either on the spur or the gear case?

Schumacher make narrow scale saloon wheels and tyres. They are 20mm wide. You could use the tyres they offer and just cut the inner lip away from your chosen 24/26mm rim?

Last night, I tried the ff03 in anger. Theres a sport tuned motor fitted in the pic, and this was punchy enough to show the diff up as the weak link in this model. It's not a particularly friendly car to work on, but I managed to strip, clean and re glue the plates onto the outdrives in the 10-12 min gap between rounds. I'm considering getting the replacement gear cases that allow you to fit an xv01 diff, that should prove much more reliable. Soft roll bar fitted to the rear, stops the rear end suddenly unloading mid corner. And here you can clearly see the 'irace' lap counting transmitter as supplied by kamtec. They work really well, and are so much cheaper than the mylaps/amb system. The tyres are 28 sweeps, and worked perfectly even in the fresh temperature of the hall. Good fun.

There's a 20t Saturn/HW1060 rule at this particular club too. We've been accused of cheating in the past, even when we've been using this specified kit, just driving tidy makes the cars appear so much faster. Half the fun is beating the modern cars with these old things v

I agree. I've just bought a shelf queen ff03 from eBay, and will race it at some point next week. I hope the original owner gets to see his/her car being used.

I try to race at one of the local clubs at least once a week, we don't have a club in the town where I live, but there are three or four within 30 miles radius. There's a bunch of four or five of us that usually descend on the chosen club of the evening, and we try not to cause too much trouble. However sometimes its just just much more fun to take something to race that's a little bit less serious than the latest 1/10 competition touring car, so we've started racing our older cars. It came about as we were reminiscing about the old cars that were still hanging around in the lofts and sheds. My first proper car was a TA01 tiger strip Escort Cosworth, and I still have it, sort of. It's a bit like triggers broom and only a handful of parts are original. It's still great fun to drive tho, and very forgiving. Thats mine on the left wearing the Cavalier body, and my mates TA02 wearing a Carson Astra body. They looks really good as they tussle, pitching violently into each corner. They are nowhere near as composed as a modern chassis, but much more forgiving. We are using old 27t stock motors as the track is quite small and has a ban on brushless to keep the speeds down. This isn't a bad thing per se, as it means the cars are having a relatively gentle time. More recently, I tried one of my FF01s there, it was great but the old plastic seems to be very brittle and I broke the front gearbox. It was good while I lasted tho. Ill get more pics when we try to take things less seriously. But we still end up having good racing.

Search for 'midlands raceway' on facebook, it's a very active group.

Cradley Heath have a great indoor club, Saturday afternoon for buggies and touring cars/gt12 in the evening.

Hey. And max, I don't agree. The adjustable upper arms allow too much flex in the suspension that allows lots of axle tramp, this is true especially on a FWD car. I had the adjustable arms fitted on my original car, and the handling was far more consistent with the fixed upper arms. This is also true with m chassis cars. No one in their right mind would put adjustable arms on the front of an m05, it ruins the consistency.

Finally got around to spinning up some posts for the steering arms, and fitted them up this evening. The shorter tie rods are made from TA04 upper arms I think, I had these in the spares box. The longer one to join the two bell cranks is from an Avante I think. I have a bit of a thing for Kyosho perfex radio equipment at the moment, this was a new servo I fitted. I have the receiver and an esc to go with, but I need to work out a way to fit them tidy, as there's not much room in front of the battery. Getting close to being somewhere near finished now.

The quicrun switches are designed to fit into the side of the esc body, it's a really neat solution. However, I feel your pain. In the Olden days I had a kopropo ksc1200f speedo in my ff01, and the switch was tiny. I cut the little tab off of the battery retainer in the chassis, and I regret doing that now. If if you search for 'BEC switch' on eBay, a load will come up that can be adapted to your needs.