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BeetleLover

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Everything posted by BeetleLover

  1. Hmmm 1) Paint and Decal Celica Grb 2) Decal Pajero 58044 3) Strip Tornado shell, repaint in white 4) Sell Blue painted Booma body and paint new Booma shell boxart 5) Paint Boxart Hornet bodyshell 6) Find early Lancia 037 chassis 7) Paint and fix multiple drivers into cars 8) Paint and decal Mudblaster shell 9) Restore Terra Scorcher 10) Paint and decal Thundershot 11) Drive Herbie Sand Scorcher up the isle for our wedding 12) Restore Thunder Dragon 13) Restore Super Dragon 14) Acquire Fire Dragon 15) Restore Grasshopper Super G, decal shell 16) Restore Super Sabre project 17) Restore Booma project 1 18) Restore Booma project 2 19) Restore Wild One project 20) trade Mountaineer chassis for Hilux 21) Build NIB XR311 22) Build NIB Top Force 23) Decal Sand Scorcher 24) Sell NIB Sand Scorcher rere 25) Restore early Williams F1 26) Finish 2 Seater Buggy Champ project 27) Start shortee Pumpkin project on WW1 M38 chassis 28) Sell Optima Mid 29) Buy Avante rere or 2 30) Finish Holiday Buggy Restoration 31) Sell half a dozen cars or so 32) Paint and Decal BMW March F2 33) Paint and Decal Porsche 58001 Bodyset Probably a few more things I'd like to accomplish, the list is already long as I've been away from my collection for 8 months so far, might be sometime yet before we are re-acquainted. Have my work cut out for me! James
  2. Could you imagine the website setup for everyone to log onto the "Cool Wall" and then move pics of the various cars around to rate them and then the site would amalgamate everyones rankings to make an official "Cool Wall" James
  3. I would imagine the shorter guards are on the earlier shell, I think they changed to the longer ones to avoid rubbing... JAmes
  4. I've always liked the idea of putting all my restored cars to use round my own personal track on my 75th birthday and inviting Tamiyaclub mates over from wherever for the most amazing series of vintage racing ever! James
  5. Must be nearly time to announce the winner!? Keen to see the top 20! Probably one of the biggest turnouts in the competitions?! Anxiously waiting, don't make us wait till Santa's official night!!!! James
  6. I would use wet and dry sand paper to sand the rust of metal parts, I'm assuming you're talking about the aluminium brackets and such. With re-re parts a plenty you could pick up the chassis parts fairly cheaply so wouldn't bother repainting plastic especially if you are considering running it. People paint plastic generally if they are doing a custom build and want to color code the chassis to match other features etc. Good luck with your resto! James
  7. Have finally finished the main painting stages of my original Sand Scorcher shell, I stripped the original paint from the shell and painted it about a year ago. I was never satisfied with the few paint bleeds I had. (that bonnet is shockingly difficult to mask ) So a couple months ago I stripped it a second time, time on this one is well up there and of course I have now invested maybe 6 cans of TS and maybe 3 cans of oven cleaner now Anyways this time it came out pretty tidy, couple of minor bleeds but I used a creme cleanser and cut and polished out some imperfections. I then remasked and repainted the roof blue section. Looks great now, and very shiny, will post in the main showroom in the next couple of days A couple of little touch ups worked well decanting some TS and brushing on James
  8. I really couldn't imagine it to be a problem, with the gear ratio of the clodbuster the load is probably a lot less than a 4WD buggy and like you say the task is shared. Go for it! I want to see video!!! James
  9. It sound like is might have been one of those leave in brake fluid for 6 months and forget about it kind of jobs. I feel your pain, have been absolutely paranoid working on my shell, have just stripped it a second time as I wasn't happy with my last attempt to paint it, has now been light sanded twice now any more and I'll start to loose detail. I'd be curious to see your shell posted to see if it could be recoverable. Make sure you do take some pics, if there ever is a photo comp theme "painful experience" or "misadventures" you will definately have a picture worthy of winning. I hope some nice soul offers you up a good deal on another tidy Scorcher shell, or alternatively if the guards are intact how about grafting them onto a rere shell, I'm sure it could be done James
  10. Well it's that time of the year and I'm scraping some money together to buy Xmas presents so thought I'd push my heads a little over the rest of December. If you haven't seen or heard of my Hyper Detailed Heads over the last couple of years you've been under a rock! These heads are quite simply the best available and were sculpted by the world class Daniel Cockersell of Weta and Games Workshop fame. See my trades: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades.asp?id=3092 Ok so the special is: All four heads and busts are now $9 US each, just state you want the special from the Forums! Postage and bubble bag is $10 US for up to 8 heads. Due to the low number of Albert Heads I'm afraid I have to limit them to 2 per person Go to my Page and make an order! http://www.tamiyaclub.com/member.asp?id=3092 If you want a guide to paint them, they're $20 US but I'll need 10 days to get them made up prior to sending out. cheers, Merry Xmas everyone!!! James BeetleLover
  11. I can't remember where I read it, could have been here even a few years back but I seem to recall it said that 700,000 of the original Hornet had been produced, I think this may have been one of the biggest number of any RC model produced. James
  12. Certainly can be done but with re-re Sand Scorcher shells around for not a great deal of money you will save a lot of sweat and elbow grease. You will get a much superior finish and stronger shell if you just purchase a new one. This one is past the quick fix scenario cheers James
  13. My recommendation would be to buy the Hotshot, your next step should be 4WD and offroad! It will look great next to your other cars Great performance, interesting construction, vintage and absolutely stunning to watch and run, all that suspension movement Lunchbox can be fun to run but it's construction could possibly bore and again the build time is too fast/simple after your previous cars, I reckon a HS could go anywhere a lunch box could go, possible more Go on you know you want a Hotshot! James
  14. For Crack welding I use Plastruct Bondene or MEK and works well, also back cracks with very thin styrene which is plyable even around sharp corners once the solvent softened it. I feel strongly the other way that the authentic scorcher shell can be identified from the rere, makes fixing and restoring original shells all the more worthwhile and rewarding. James
  15. JAnderson I think did an article for a Tamiya site showing the best method for filling these holes and the product used, send him a pm to track down it's whereabouts James
  16. I'd have thought the original early Pajero would go for a lot more than 70 - 80 GBP's. I see them very rarely and even then I've seen quite rough examples go for much more. Post a picture of your here to give someone a better idea for a possible price that is realistic. cheers James
  17. I remember seeing a tutorial or maybe a forum entry here which explained exactly how to replace the battery. Try doing some searches, here and in the showrooms for the adspec gear, I'm sure you will find it! James
  18. Can you get some kind of schematic or council plan which might show utilities etc to the property? I want you to get digging but make sure you're safe! Really curious I'll be following this thread with interest! cheers James
  19. Ok this is getting ridiculous! Please lock and close this thread before heaven forbid the "silent majority" start siding with Tamiya 1/10th. Please add me to the 6 who think this fight is futile and not even worth getting up in arms about. Start your own humor thread in the "Anything but RC related" and if someone tries to sell their car in your thread perhaps you should complain about them hijacking your thread. Easy as James
  20. To those who keep throwing in the comment about Tamiya having destroyed molds etc it really is a non argument. The cost of tooling new molds nowadays would be less than a 1/10 of what it used to be. Tamiya will have already invested heavily in 3D scanning, rapid prototyping, multiaxis cnc machining etc. To develop molds to create identical components to the originals and new and improved ones is truly a piece of cake and done in record time. I know this as I worked for a company that had this kind of equipment/machinery. James
  21. I would say it would have to be a fairly accurate renditioning/rerelease of the original otherwise it would have to be renamed Avante MK3... Tamiya knew their DF03 chassis would cause outrage if they called it just Avante. There was talk on the forums here that Mr Tamiya would announce something special as perhaps the last of the re-releases, an accurate rerelease of the Avante would fully qualify as something special. I'm in 2 minds about the rereleases, I really don't want them to rerelease everything but this one would be great and save me an arm and a leg as I try to piece together an Avante and an Egress from expensive parts... looking forward to seeing it and hoping it is very close to the original James
  22. Is the Axle component damaged? Why not consider leaving the part attached and clean around it as best you can? You may not gain a whole lot extra by removing the part... James
  23. I remember a Falcon arriving from a trading site win. It was a great car but I was disappointed the battery bar part was missing, seems they are missing frequently. I must have had the car several months before one day I was packaging up a car I'd sold on, turns out it was the same box the Falcon had arrived in. There under the flap of cardboard in the bottom of the box was the battery bar component Hooray! James
  24. I've been logging all my purchases over the last 5 years in excel, it's a bit scary really. It's interesting to look at as it shows items and bits and pieces I've traded on to reduce my overall expense of each model. Although my accounting is fairly accurate sometimes I've missed some of the expendable items such as Tamiya spray paints etc, they do add up somewhat! Without putting an exact dollar figure up here instead I can tell you I've spent enough to buy a '98 Porsche Boxster 1:1 Makes you think huh?! Just told Kelly and she said "Sell them" What's more important! Maybe I can sell half of them and buy a rough 924? nah! Maybe I'll keep going till I've spent enough to buy a 911 Turbo and then consider doing the conversion! James
  25. Those 2 part epoxy glues usually have an enemy... it's heat. My recommendation would be to submerse the area affected by the glue into a tray just filled with boiling water from a kettle. Have it submersed for a minute or 2 and then put light pressure on the indicator from the front OR use a small screw driver or similar to scrape or peal the glue up off the back. I have known Epoxy to do one of too things either, become a little jelly like or go extremely brittle and crack and break off. If this doesn't work it's probably a different form of glue... James
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