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korreka

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About korreka

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  1. First, check the connections of the white, yellow and green wires of the servo. http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2017/11/sustituir-un-servo-nikko-por-otro-servo.html Also, the received signal may be incorrect. To test if the steering signal is received, you must have an oscilloscope. Is the original transmitter the Nikko Bison car?
  2. The Nikko Thunderbolt was sold with 380 and 540 motors. The 540 motor version was a 35T or 45T motor: 12600 rpm at 7.4V and 1.3A no load current y the car has full proportional control electronics. I have tried to put a 27T motor (Johnson "silvercan" motor of Tamiya) of 18,000 rpm and 1.6A no load current. The original electronics do not overheat. The original electronics have a "H-bridge" of bipolar transistors: 2SA1129 (pnp) and 2SC2654 (npn). These transistors have a maximum current Ic = 7A and drive a peak of 15A. The collector-emitter saturation voltage of these transistors is Vce-sat = 0.3V at Ic = 3A or Vce-sat = 0.6V at Ic = 5A, so the motor is powered between 0.6 or 1.2V less than the battery voltage. The motor speed is lower than the same car with ESC (electronic speed controller) of Mosfet transistors. In spanish lang. in http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2020/01/cambio-de-motor-nikko-thunderbolt.html
  3. (In spanish lang. in http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2020/01/cambio-de-motor-nikko-thunderbolt.html) There is also the option to change the wheel. The Nikko car wheel adapter copied from Tamiya. The Tamiya rear wheel (Hornet, Frog) can be attached to the Nikko adapter and also, the Nikko Thunderbolt wheel fits well to the Tamiya adapter. The Traxxas (The Cat) adapter is similar but I don't know how it fits well on Nikko or Tamiya wheels. If we want to use a wheel with a 12 mm hexagon, we have to use a long adapter that has a inner screw to fix the 5mm shaft of Nikko car. The picture shows the adaptor fixed to the shaft and a wheel with 0mm offset.
  4. Tires for Nikko Thunderbolt / Bison / Rhino: http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2016/11/neumaticos-de-nikko-thunderbolt-bison.html The rim is 50mm in diameter (1.9 "); the original tire is hard to get. One option is to put a crawler tire with foam insert. The tire is bonded with contact adhesive. The tire diameter is 100mm. Another option is to put the Tamiya Hornet rear tire. This has an internal hole of 36mm (1.5 "). If you cut with a cutter the inner edge of the tire (very careful !!), the operation of mounting it on the rim is easier:
  5. Rims and complete wheels of Tamiya Hornet are compatible.
  6. I have put a car on sale on Ebay - only shipping on the EU https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184146976191
  7. The chassis is an aluminum-polyethylene panel and is very rigid. The buggy weighs about 1.5 kg with the battery. I do not think the chassis will break. Maybe, the holes threaded in the aluminum give me problems in the future but I can always put screws and nuts. The wheelbase is 260mm (same as the original Raider); the wheels are bigger and it seems that the wheelbase is smaller.
  8. I had many spare parts from Kyosho Raider and I thought I could build a new buggy: ... I needed many essential parts (shocks, bearings, shafts, suspension and steering arms,..) I started by checking and lubricating the transmission: "homemade" suspension arms in aluminium The shafts were obtained from a DVD-CD rom: the chassis diagram Building the chassis with a polyethylene-aluminum composite sheet: Building the front shock absorbers with aluminum tubes: Building the steering arms with two long screws I have put ball bearings and a 380 motor to test the transmission: I start to assemble the parts of the transmission and steering in the chassis: Servo and steering are assembled and adjusted: It starts to look like a car... The first test with a 540 motor, receiver, ESC and battery: Building a custom bumper. The curve is obtained with heat from a soldering iron Bumpers and body supports are already in place: Receiver and ESC has been mounted with Velcro: The lexan body is obtained from a toy-grade car: It's done !!!! the bumper is behind the body With its "brother", the original Kyosho Raider: (In Spanish here: http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2019/01/fabricar-un-buggy-partir-de-piezas.html )
  9. With time, also the dogbones have been broken. Solution: Aluminum or bronze hollow spacers (the dogbones have been glued with epoxy-glue). Also the HPI 06006 dogbones (70mm) can be compatible.
  10. I have not thrown them away. !! I use these shock absorbers in a TL-01 chassis intended for a rally car.
  11. I also restored and repaired a Kyosho Raider. I translated from my blog: http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2018/02/restauracion-reparacion-de-kyosho-raider.html. Sorry for my bad translation. The car was like the picture: dirty, without motor, the speed controller did not work, tires that are loose from the rims, .. I should clean and change the shock absorbers: The car needs a motor. Before I must clean and grease: Cleaning and whitening the wheels with hydrogen peroxide: In the end, I paint the wheels with the white paint. I also placed a sponge inside the tires: I paint the letters of the tire with the white paint: I lubricate the transmission and the gears: I place ball bearings instead of plastic bushes: The motor is type 555 rewound by me so that it is faster: I adjust the 15 teeth pinion: Replacing front shock absorbers with other oil shock absorbers: The rear shocks work well (they were previously replaced by the previous owner): The receiver is Sanwa brand with the old standard; it is valid for an old Sanwa servo but is not compatible for a modern ESC: I made an adapter for ESC (reversing + and - wires): The car is already working well: I will paint the body another day:
  12. I also broke part A5 in my Terra Scorcher; in this way, solve it: I put a bushing through which the screw enters (shaft). To do this, we clean and shape the size of the bushing with the Dremel drill machine and the sanding tip: I put and paste the bush with cyanoacrylate to hold momentarily: Then, fill with ABS plastic dissolved in acetone and let it harden. I made this piece with a metal sheet The piece provides a reinforcement and this works! See the complete repair at: http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2018/06/soporte-de-suspension-de-tamiya-terra.html
  13. Here is my Radcon Wildfox Review (Radioshack-Tandy Red Arrow review): https://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com.es/2018/02/revision-de-radconm-wildfox-radio-shack.html Radcon was the manufacturer of many Radio Shack RC cars. This buggy was sold in the late 80's and early 90's as Radcon WildFox and as Radio Shack - Tandy as Red Arrow (60-4077) with different stickers. Radio Shack Red Arrow The front suspension is similar to Nikko Thuderbolt / Rhino and the front and rear wheels are the same as these Nikko cars. The transmission and chassis is the same as the Yonezawa Land Dash Buggy (Monogram Lightning). Yonezawa Land Dash This car has proportional steering and non-proportional speed controller (2 forward speeds and one reverse speed) although the signal encoded by the transmitter is digital proportional type. . This buggy has two rather curious things: - To remove the bodyshell, there is only a lever to slide from the cockpit. - The access to the 7.2V battery and the 4x AA batteries, it is done with a lever that, according to the position, lifts a panel or another. To remove the motor, 2 screws of the motor cover are removed on the side of the wires and two other screws that hold it on the opposite side. Before, we have removed the wheel. The motor is 540 Mabuchi type with 10T pinion and 0.8 module . At a voltage of 7.7 volts, the speed 18000 rpm (no load); it must be a RS-540 with 27 winding turns or similar. To disassemble the transmission (gears and differential), in addition to the two screws of the motor, you must remove the opposite wheel and another 4 screws. From here, you can lubricate the gears: The transmission ratio, (I think it has counted the teeth well), would be: 10/24 * 13/50 -----> 1: 9.2 With a tire diameter of 82mm and a motor speed of about 15,000 rpm it reaches about 25 km / h The wheel hub is similar to the Nikko Thunderbolt: To access the car's electronics, remove the top cover fixed with 6 screws. The board has the Oki L9367 integrated circuit (msl9367). It has three relays (one for the two forward speeds and two relays for the forward-backward switching): The diagram of the final stage is this: On pin 16 of the i.c. decoder, the PPM signal of the transmitter enters with these values for steering and throttle neutral point (the seen in the oscilloscope). It has inverted channels with respect to a Futaba standart: Ch1: throttle and Ch2: steering
  14. You can place a Tamiya Frog / Hornet tire with a 38mm rim. The rim of Red Arrow or Nikko Thunderbolt (is the same) is 50mm. The tire is flexible and can be placed
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