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NobbySideways

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About NobbySideways

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  1. Yeah I agree, keep a cheap weak link, its easier than repairing the main chassis tub!
  2. I bet those tyres are sketchy on the road....
  3. Are you not going to kick yourself for the sake for not just waiting a few months?
  4. Not crashing isn't something I can work on from the comfort of home (it's carpet racing). Good upkeep of the car I can at least attempt. I forgot to reply earlier to the question of what car it is, sorry, not Tamiya this time, its a Mardave VRX oe. Our club rules state Mardave G2 motor, but we couldn't get hold of those (nil stock) so they relaxed the rules for generic silvercan. The battery is restricted to NIMH up to 5000mah, 4 cells. I only really started doing it as my son races the Schumacher GT12 in a different class and the Mardave Hot Hatches looked like a bit of fun without all the faff of the GT12. Although they do get brushless and lipo in their class!
  5. Thanks, that's good stuff right there. I've only done one race, but no point giving myself a disadvantage with substandard maintenance. Smoothness will come I guess, the racing lines are coming more naturally now. Strange, it comes a lot more naturally at 1:1 scale!
  6. Brilliant, thank you. I had seen the water technique but another source (there seems to be a lot of conflicting info!) said that running in the motors is something that doesn't need to be done any more as its done from the factory. I suppose I could peer in and see how well they fit the commutator. I don't really have the budget to buy a lot of them, but I will see if I can get the best out of this one. As mentioned, I'm not allowed to open it. Some good advice and thinking points, thanks.
  7. I'm in a championship that uses stock 540 silvercan motors, no mods allowed. I want to stress at this point that I wish to stick entirely to the rules; nothing outside the spirit of the competition (I can't stand cheating). Has anyone got any tips for getting the best out of the silvercan? Gear ratios are not allowed to be changed, the can must not be opened. I figured keeping it clean (cleaning out with Isopropyl alcohol for example, and re-oiling any bearings I can get to), I heard something a few years ago about Commutator drops, is that snake oil or actually worth doing? Thanks for any help you can give, Jon.
  8. Have you fitted all the bearings in the prop shafts? (I think there are two at each end). If you spin it by hand does it do it then? Faults inside the diff will only be apparent if the diff is actually operating; i.e. the two wheels on that axle are operating at different speeds.
  9. Another one for eBay?
  10. It sounds daft, but working somewhere that isn't dusty helps.... when I painted my (real) car I damped down the garage with a fine spray to damp the dust down. That seemed to help. Maybe if the lint free cloth is causing the issue, don't use that.
  11. I've bought all mine over ebay, shipping was never really an issue. Hard case is the way to go, you don't want to be damaging one.
  12. I'm in the rubber-bands-and-old-phone camp too. Spend the £50 on beer.
  13. It was a good tip earlier about making sure it is plugged in to something when you solder it. They do get a bit loose and melty otherwise.
  14. Deans just look a bit.... shonky. The XT series work very well for me and look a bit more professional. The sprung tongue in the deans connector looks like it could cause issues.
  15. So my lad has got into RC Carpet racing, and it turns out he is quite good (as in, first day he went he borrowed the club car and won his race, is now second in the club championship). He is racing a Schumacher Atom, and although its been interesting helping him tune and learn the car it's a bit serious for me. The Hot Hatch championship (no diff, brushed motors, NIMH batteries) looked simpler and a bit more of a laugh, so I toyed with the idea of doing that. My bank balance said otherwise so I put it on the back burner. Unluckily for my bank balance, I make stupid purchases whilst drunk. I now own a second hand Mardave VRX, which I am trying to get ready for my first race. It came with the settings all over the place and needing a fair bit of work just to set it to stock. Does anyone have any tips or guidance for a complete novice? Both setup and racing. I've been asking some of the guys my son races with but I don't want to pester them too much. On a forum you get to pick and choose what you bother replying to! Thanks, Jon.
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