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About NobbySideways

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  1. Funnily enough I did exactly this technique myself to rescue an old LiPo. Worked like a charm, but as mentioned I did it somewhere it could burn without causing damage to anything and I did have a twitchy ring througout.
  2. LOL my real road car is that blue. Do it!
  3. Why DO you need a fan? Chucking fans on stuff is relatively recent. With the GT12 racing we sit the cars on a fan after the race to cool down asap to prevent weakening of the motor magnets, I suspect its just more weight to lug around for most people, and a nice little profit for WISH or BANGGOOD
  4. Are you able to run in enough of a straight line to find out if its a problem? Because I sure can't...
  5. Ah, sorry, no, these are steam engines, powered by a boiler, I'm just using the motor as a generator.
  6. As an old man my other hobby is making large model steam engines from brass. I recently made a generator for a stationary engine to run from an old 540 motor but it barely generated anything. I figure I would be better off using a cheap brushless motor and rectifying the output. I've had a look myself but before I pounce (I've never got much cash) whats the cheapest brushless 540 motor on the market at the moment please? It doesn't have to be any good, just have no commutator and three wires hanging out the back of a 540 package.... Sorry to drag this forum into uncool territory...
  7. We do carpet racing and once you have got the kit, assuming the racing is clean and not too smashy (and you can avoid hitting too much yourself!) its all actually quite reasonable. We budget for new tyres on a regular basis, tyre conditioner, and a shell every now and then. On the whole its been quite reasonable once the kit is in your grubby mitts.
  8. I'd question your checkers way of working out percentages more than anything. Proper battery meters for (real) cars usually dump some current over a ballasted load to see how much the voltage drops and work out capacity from there. Your best bet for testing is to just use them. Capacities will change over time, different makers will be more or less economical with the truth, different tolerances on manufacturing may mean different cells may be marked the same but have a slightly different capacity. At the end of the day the only thing that makes any difference is how much play time you get per pack. Everything will turn out ok.
  9. My son uses a Timbertech, came with a compressor for under £100 and to be honest I'm blown away. Seems excellent.
  10. If it happens very regular you can swap channels on the receiver. If the fault moves to the throttle then the servo is fine. If the servo still glitches then the fault is there.
  11. During the lock out does it return to neutral (I see you mention that it locks in neutral but I don't know if thats where it was when it drops out) or does it stay wherever it was?
  12. You need Tamiya X20A thinner. It's not too pricey if you buy the 250ml plastic containers, my son uses it for his airbrushing. You can use water but the results may not be quite so predictable. Depends how much you want to spend I guess.
  13. It's an interesting little debate, as I suspected it would be. I agree handling and all out grip are not really the same thing, maybe I should have said "Which is the most agile chassis?" as that more clearly represents what I mean. As a side point, I am also aware that the best cars to drive are not always the most fun....
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