NobbySideways

Funnily enough I did exactly this technique myself to rescue an old LiPo. Worked like a charm, but as mentioned I did it somewhere it could burn without causing damage to anything and I did have a twitchy ring througout.

LOL my real road car is that blue. Do it!

Why DO you need a fan? Chucking fans on stuff is relatively recent. With the GT12 racing we sit the cars on a fan after the race to cool down asap to prevent weakening of the motor magnets, I suspect its just more weight to lug around for most people, and a nice little profit for WISH or BANGGOOD

Are you able to run in enough of a straight line to find out if its a problem? Because I sure can't...

LOL No way am I making myself even less cool!

Ah, sorry, no, these are steam engines, powered by a boiler, I'm just using the motor as a generator.

As an old man my other hobby is making large model steam engines from brass. I recently made a generator for a stationary engine to run from an old 540 motor but it barely generated anything. I figure I would be better off using a cheap brushless motor and rectifying the output. I've had a look myself but before I pounce (I've never got much cash) whats the cheapest brushless 540 motor on the market at the moment please? It doesn't have to be any good, just have no commutator and three wires hanging out the back of a 540 package.... Sorry to drag this forum into uncool territory...

We do carpet racing and once you have got the kit, assuming the racing is clean and not too smashy (and you can avoid hitting too much yourself!) its all actually quite reasonable. We budget for new tyres on a regular basis, tyre conditioner, and a shell every now and then. On the whole its been quite reasonable once the kit is in your grubby mitts.

I'd question your checkers way of working out percentages more than anything. Proper battery meters for (real) cars usually dump some current over a ballasted load to see how much the voltage drops and work out capacity from there. Your best bet for testing is to just use them. Capacities will change over time, different makers will be more or less economical with the truth, different tolerances on manufacturing may mean different cells may be marked the same but have a slightly different capacity. At the end of the day the only thing that makes any difference is how much play time you get per pack. Everything will turn out ok.

My son uses a Timbertech, came with a compressor for under £100 and to be honest I'm blown away. Seems excellent.

Would that not affect the throttle too?

If it happens very regular you can swap channels on the receiver. If the fault moves to the throttle then the servo is fine. If the servo still glitches then the fault is there.

During the lock out does it return to neutral (I see you mention that it locks in neutral but I don't know if thats where it was when it drops out) or does it stay wherever it was?

You need Tamiya X20A thinner. It's not too pricey if you buy the 250ml plastic containers, my son uses it for his airbrushing. You can use water but the results may not be quite so predictable. Depends how much you want to spend I guess.

It's an interesting little debate, as I suspected it would be. I agree handling and all out grip are not really the same thing, maybe I should have said "Which is the most agile chassis?" as that more clearly represents what I mean. As a side point, I am also aware that the best cars to drive are not always the most fun....

So this is aimed at the people who have a few Tamiya buggies and can do a direct comparison. Which of your buggies is the grippiest at speed? Which one do you think would be subjecting the "driver" to the most G force? I love watching the straight line speed trials people are doing but for my own fun you can't beat a buggy that can corner like a house fly whilst going at a rate of knots. For clarity I'm talking more at the hobby end of the market rather than the TRF racing kit etc. Any opinions?

Agree with all that Thunder Dragon has said, although if you are after a laugh don't put too much weight on the front, its a wheely machine, especially when you go brushless...

I'm only tamiya biased as I've never had any other brand (other than Mardave...) but I'm behind this. Only thing I would advise is using a glue to glue the two chassis halves together before screwing it together; before I did this I snapped a couple of chassis in the nose, since doing this it hasn't been a problem. A great choice other than that!

If you already have a balanced LiPo charger then yes, I totally agree LiPo is the way to go. If the car you wish to buy doesn't come with an ESC then a good generic ESC for brushed motors is the Hobbywing 1060. It's compatible with LiPo and will work with your 540 brushed motor. Your most important factor here is to make sure you get the same connector for the ESC and the Battery. My personal preference is XT60 connector as the Tamiya connector doesn't cope well with high current, and the Deans connectors I don't feel are very robust (we use them in racing but they never feel like they are connecting well. I'm sure they are fine, its just my preference). Also you will need to make sure you have a charging cable that suits too. Maybe its best to start with the standard motor, again, just my opinion. This is all just my opinion, there are many available, this is just mine.

For a possible transmitter/receiver combo look at the Flysky gt2e. Very reasonably priced and my son even uses his for his racing. He keeps thinking of upgrading but it does almost everything the expensive transmitters do.

Slow down mate, in your excitement some of your post is a bit unreadable! Before you choose, think about what space you have available for running it. If its mainly grass or mud you may find a buggy (DT-02, DT-03) would be more useable. TT-02s struggle a bit when the going is lumpy. 1) You don't need a tamiya brand battery. Your battery is dictated by your speed controller and the space to fit it. Remember that you will need a suitable charger for whatever battery you buy. NiMH is a good starting point in my opinion. Decide what speed controller and battery you will be using, then we can look at what battery will be used. 2) You don't need a Tamiya brand transmitter; there are many brands available. You can buy bundles from people like Flysky, which will have a transmitter and receiver included. 3) I don't know. Are you in germany? 4) As with anything you pay your money and you take your chance. Futaba S3003 is a good one for example, but there are plenty of entry level servos that will do the job well. Have a read of the rest of the site, I think you just need to get your head round a few basics before clicking Buy-it-Now. It's a great hobby and I hope you enjoy it, welcome.

In the german military technology museum in Koln (I think) I saw a Cayenne that the german army had trialed; it was made up to military spec right from the factory. First time I've ever wanted one.

Give the surfaces a wipe with some Isopropyl alcohol or similar before sticking them down, it does help, even a new chassis has probably got traces of mould release agent on.

Customs are a lot more savvy these days, loads more stuff gets caught

I don't see any pictures, but it could be blocked by my work.