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About Fuijo

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    Uithoorn Netherlands

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  1. An expertly built Tamiya body shell is a beautiful thing indeed. Stunning! I love the Guide Book style photo. You should do more, and then put together a Guide Book. I'd buy one.
  2. It depends on whether the motor was getting up to full rpm or not. If the acceleration to top speed is almost instant with all the pinion gears you tried, then the pinion is too small. But for this to be the case, the top speed would be different with each pinion. If the motor is quickly reaching sustained full rpm, but the car is slow to accelerate and has a low top speed, then either the pinion is slipping on the motor shaft, the power is overwhelming the diffs and they're slipping, or the wheels are spinning inside the tyres. If the motor is not reaching sustained full rpm, then either the pinion is too big, the battery can't handle the demand, the wheels are bigger than standard, or something is binding. Does the motor get hot? This is all assuming neither the motor or battery are faulty. It's probably worth inspecting the diffs anyway. Even if they were adjusted correctly to begin with, and the spring was compressed a few times before installing, there's probably going to be a bit of bedding-in required. They should probably be readjusted after the first battery pack. Signs of slipping or not will likely be visible when you strip them down.
  3. If there was no difference in acceleration between the 16t and 21 tooth pinions, I don't believe it's a gearing issue.
  4. The quoted FDR for the Egress 2013 seems a bit off. After pulling mine apart and counting the teeth on the gears, it seems the internal ratio is 2.778:1 ** The final drive ratio with the stock 22t pinion should be 8.3333:1, or just FDR 8.3333 21t pinion FDR 8.731 20t pinion FDR 9.167 19t pinion FDR 9.650 18t pinion FDR 10.186 17t pinion FDR 10.785 16t pinion FDR 11.459 Assuming the Superstock BZ motor pictured in the manual is what Tamiya intended to be fitted, it's a bit confusing that they included a 22 tooth pinion. The recommended ratios for the BZ are from 9.1 to 11.1. Probably the 9.1 would be for a light 2wd car, and the 11.1 for a heavy 4wd car. The Egress is fairly light, but 4wd. So somewhere in the middle, say around 10.1 might be a good place to start. So why didn't they go for an 18 tooth pinion? A 13.5 brushless motor gives approximately the same KV as a superstock BZ with no load, but should have quite a bit more torque and easily be able to turn a bigger pinion than the BZ. You say you've tried pinions from 16 to 21 teeth, and not noticed much of a difference? quite frankly it should absolutely fly on most of those ratios with a 10.5 turn brushless motor unless the battery can't supply the current (are you using LiPo?), or the diffs are slipping. **Internal gearing, going on front gearbox Spur gear 66 teeth Spur pinion 18 teeth Counter gear spur 20 teeth Counter gear pinion 12 teeth Diff gear 30 teeth 22 tooth Pinion to spur ratio 66/22 spur pinion to counter gear spur ratio 20/18 counter gear pinion to diff ratio 30/12 FDR with a 22 tooth pinion (66/22) x (20/18) x (30/12) = 3 x 1.1111 x 2.5 = 8.3333 (working to 4 significant figures)
  5. After priming with T's fine surface primer, I just wash it in lukewarm water with a bit of dishwashing liquid, and leave it to dry thoroughly underneath an upturned plastic crate to protect it from dust. Using tack cloths is risky because they can leave a stickyness on the surface that contaminants can stick to. The problem your pics show can also be caused by paint that isn't mixed very well. I always shake the cans for several minutes, up to 5 or so, particularly in less than searingly hot weather, and stand the can in the sink with bath-temperature water about half way up the can for another 5 minutes.
  6. A superb write-up, with some beautiful pics. That second video though, wow! How did you even manage to see where you were going? It sounds like a very exciting race. Was that enough to stop you from dropping into a little heap on the floor with the extreme fatigue? 1000 laps is hard to get my head around. I was pretty tired after a 20 minute stint at the old track, with sweaty and shaking hands. Amazing stuff! And congratulations on such a great result.
  7. Lower arm plate - https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=63247&lang=eng upper arms - https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=68384&lang=eng body set including wing - https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=68166&lang=eng
  8. These fit - https://tamico.de/Tamiya-KingPin-4x10mm-5-Stk-50585
  9. Mmmm! Nice 911. But I would say that wouldn't I? Heh heh. I hope it brings you luck in the race. It is a real shame about our indoor track. The end of an era. But looking at the size of that Mini-Z, maybe we could have our own indoor track on a small coffee table. Not quite the same of course, but racing is racing right? I do admire your determination to keep the number of cars you have to a sensible level. Unfortunately for me that kind of discipline is but a distant dream. I don't even know off the top of my head how many I have. And that's quite deliberate.
  10. I was confused by this too. It was @GooneyBirdwho figured it out. If you fit it on the rear it leaves very small gaps where dirt could enter the pinion/spur area. The standard plastic part is longer to block these gaps.
  11. Some here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-ALLOY-WHEEL-FOR-TAMIYA-FOX-WILD-ONE-SUPER-HORNET-GRASSHOPPER-II/132166411855?hash=item1ec5bb664f:g:IloAAOSw6wRXAmid
  12. Liquid Poly, or liquid polystyrene cement is as cheap as chips and more than sufficient. I've been using the same bottle now for almost 15 years and it still works great. It melts the surfaces together and forms a weld. This is not only as strong as the surrounding material, but because of capillary action, you can both position the parts before applying the cement, and keep appying it to melt the plastic even more. This is great because it's self-filling. If you hold the joint vertically, so any excess runs harmlessly away (rather than between the plastic and your fingers/a clamp) material is forced outwards to fill the seam when you apply some pressure to the joint. It can then be sanded off to give a flawless surface. In my opinion this is far superior to any filler, because all the material expands and contracts at the same rate, which avoids potential problems when a hairdryer is used to help fit stickers. Both Scorcher bodies below used this method - It also gives a flawless seam on driver helmets -
  13. Welcome! I have a re-re Scorcher, and I did enjoy building it and running it on the beach very much. I put an enormous amount of effort into painting it, and have thrown silly amounts of money at bumpers, wheels, lights, and what have you. For the most part it's great and I'm happy, but.... The shell is from the Monster Beetle, and the rear mudguards have been re-moulded in such a way that the wheelbase is now 4mm too long for the body shell. The more I look at it, the more it niggles me that they couldn't go the extra mile and get this right. I hate to put a dampener on your excitement, but please look at the side views of the re-re versus the original, and make sure you can live with it before you take the plunge. Sorry to be negative, but I personally wish I'd put my money and effort into an original just because of this. It may not bother you one jot, but forewarned is forearmed as they say.
  14. I can't help you a great deal without tearing open blister packs, and I'm not ready to do that just yet. The Fighting Buggy re-re has supesion-travel stops built into the machined aluminium damper arms. For these to work properly you would also need the re-re rear bumper mounts, for them to stop up against. The re-re front suspension arms are larger than the original ones, to accomodate the larger plastic ball-cups. So you'll probably need either all re-re parts, or all vintage-style parts for these.
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