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Fuijo

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About Fuijo

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    Uithoorn Netherlands

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  1. I'll just leave this here. Silly? Slightly. But awesome fun, like real life Mario Kart. Ridiculous? If you like. I don't think so.
  2. I shortened the wheelbase by about 1.5mm by removing material from the leading edge of the inboard end of the lower rear arms. The upper arms needed spacing out to match. I rotated the mounts for the rear body-posts by 90 degrees to allow the body to sit a bit lower. Then fitted the body to lower holes on the body-posts. I also had to shave a few mm from the top edge of the rear bumper. Fitting shocks with threaded cylinders allowed for some fine adjustment. You are not wrong.
  3. You can remove the chrome and paint the wheels a less blingy colour if that helps. But if the problem is the wheels are too big and the sidewalls too small, then unfortunately I have no solution for that.
  4. I'm sorry that you have to go. Thanks for showing us stuff that we've never seen before, and so enriching our lives.
  5. There are still parts around, at least for 56018, but it depends what you need. I have quite a few parts, like a complete set of wheels, the standard tracks and quite a few of the plastic detail parts. Tamico.de have some parts, and modellbau-seidel.de have some too if you can persuade someone in Germany to ship them to you. Just put Königstiger in the search field. Is anything actually broken or does it just look scruffy? Turret rotation and gun elevation can be a bit dodgy from new, but there are work-arounds for that.
  6. Have you fitted the motor mount the correct way around? One of the posts is a little bit longer than the other. If you get it wrong, the spur and pinion will mesh at a slight angle and be prone to skipping teeth. It's certainly easy to do with the Tamiya metal mount, the difference between the posts is quite small. I don't have experience of the Yeah Racing one.
  7. I think part of the attraction of these, was that they lent themselves to being modified in the same way as static military vehicles that many people started their modelling hobby with. You know, painting in plain green, or almost endless different camo schemes, bullet holes and battle scars made by heating up a pin in a candle, that kind of thing. Also turning them into mobile dioramas with extra soldier figures, camo nets, fuel drums etc. Modelling textures like caked-on mud, sand, snow etc. Generally, rather more modelling possibilities than you get with other RC cars. But I didn't have too much in the way of those kind of skills, so I just modified the chassis instead to make it a much better runner, with the help of RC Channel parts. See thread here. -
  8. Another nobody here. Modified XR311s are up there with SRBs for me.
  9. I had to include a pic of my commander in the tank, and the reason I wanted him installed despite his summer uniform, is for the sheer sense of scale. Such a huge and imposing tank. Unfortunately I had to give the figure a coat of flat clear for durability. It's a shame Tamiya's flat clear isn't particularly flat. However, it is quite tough and protects the paint well.
  10. After owning my 1/16th Tamiya Tiger II for 19 years, I finally got around to painting the commander. He was very small and fiddly compared with a 1/10th car driver. Maybe pens would be easier than brushes, but I don't have any.
  11. I'm a bit confused as to why you have the Avante and Egress in one list, and the Sand Scorcher and Rough Rider in the other when all 4 have been re-released.
  12. Sorry OP, I forgot the on-topic bit to my post. I do, I think, have some unpopular opinions. So I had an ask-around. I asked my wife, I asked my mother, I asked my sister. And reading between the lines and the varying degrees of diplomacy, None of them give a stuff what I think. Yep, that's pretty much what I thought.
  13. Is that a passive aggressive dig? Heh! Just kidding. I used to ride motorcycles, and there was this weird thing where you were supposed to wave at other riders even though they were complete strangers. Okay, when in Rome and all that. But it wasn't that simple. Harley riders would only wave at Harley riders. Sports-bike riders would only wave at other sports-bike riders. No one waved at mopeds, Trail riders would....Okay, you get the idea. The proceedure seems to be to find yourself a niche hobby, and then fragment it further into little, even smaller tribes. Because humans. Yep, this. All day long. Underated, not always easy, but certainly something to strive for.
  14. It might not be that cheap to do if you don't have the materials already, but I'd use some brass rod inside a styrene tube. The rod will stop the tube collapsing when you bend it to make the rim, and also help hold the shape. Then glue it to the boss which you could cut to shape from styrene sheet.
  15. Hi, First you'll need two oil bottles with at least some oil in them. Fill the shock and cap as best you can in the fully compressed position. Then connect the tube to the bottle and squeeze the bottle until oil comes out the far end of the tube. Keeping the pressure on the bottle, fit the tube to the shock cap. Then squeeze the bottle more until the oil forces the shock into the fully extended position. Then remove the bottle from the tube. The only air remaining in the shock and tube will be the small amount from initially filling the shock cap. Fill the bottle you are going to fit to the car to about 3/4 full. The air gap combined with the flexible bottle will act a bit like a primitive diaphragm. Then hold the shock with the connected tube that is now full of oil in the vertical position and compress the shock until you see no more bubbles in the tube. Invert the oil bottle and squeeze verry gently until a bead of oil forms, then fit to the tube. Extend the shock again, drawing oil from the bottle. Then remove the bottle from the tube again to release the vacuum in the bottle. Compress the shock just enough to form a bead of oil at the top of the tube. Invert the bottle and squeeze just enough to form a bead of oil, then finally fit the bottle to the tube. It should now be completely free of bubbles. And any bubbles that form from by inverting the assembly, either on or off the car, will be cleared by compressing the shock a few times when everything is as it would be on an upright car. Phew!!! The front shocks need to be a mixture of air and oil or they will not function properly. If there is too much oil in them there is nowhere for the piston shaft to go, so they will lock up. If you fill them with the shock fully compressed, it will create a vacuum and not want to extend fully. This is okay. Just unscrew the cap enough to release the vacuum by drawing in some air as you extend them. Then tighten the cap. I replaced the kit o-rings in mine with TRF items. It made all the above easier, and stopped the 'grabbing' the kit items felt like they were doing when the shocks hadn't been compressed for a while.
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