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About Fuijo

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    Uithoorn Netherlands

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  1. Mmmm! Nice 911. But I would say that wouldn't I? Heh heh. I hope it brings you luck in the race. It is a real shame about our indoor track. The end of an era. But looking at the size of that Mini-Z, maybe we could have our own indoor track on a small coffee table. Not quite the same of course, but racing is racing right? I do admire your determination to keep the number of cars you have to a sensible level. Unfortunately for me that kind of discipline is but a distant dream. I don't even know off the top of my head how many I have. And that's quite deliberate.
  2. I was confused by this too. It was @GooneyBirdwho figured it out. If you fit it on the rear it leaves very small gaps where dirt could enter the pinion/spur area. The standard plastic part is longer to block these gaps.
  3. Some here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-ALLOY-WHEEL-FOR-TAMIYA-FOX-WILD-ONE-SUPER-HORNET-GRASSHOPPER-II/132166411855?hash=item1ec5bb664f:g:IloAAOSw6wRXAmid
  4. Liquid Poly, or liquid polystyrene cement is as cheap as chips and more than sufficient. I've been using the same bottle now for almost 15 years and it still works great. It melts the surfaces together and forms a weld. This is not only as strong as the surrounding material, but because of capillary action, you can both position the parts before applying the cement, and keep appying it to melt the plastic even more. This is great because it's self-filling. If you hold the joint vertically, so any excess runs harmlessly away (rather than between the plastic and your fingers/a clamp) material is forced outwards to fill the seam when you apply some pressure to the joint. It can then be sanded off to give a flawless surface. In my opinion this is far superior to any filler, because all the material expands and contracts at the same rate, which avoids potential problems when a hairdryer is used to help fit stickers. Both Scorcher bodies below used this method - It also gives a flawless seam on driver helmets -
  5. Welcome! I have a re-re Scorcher, and I did enjoy building it and running it on the beach very much. I put an enormous amount of effort into painting it, and have thrown silly amounts of money at bumpers, wheels, lights, and what have you. For the most part it's great and I'm happy, but.... The shell is from the Monster Beetle, and the rear mudguards have been re-moulded in such a way that the wheelbase is now 4mm too long for the body shell. The more I look at it, the more it niggles me that they couldn't go the extra mile and get this right. I hate to put a dampener on your excitement, but please look at the side views of the re-re versus the original, and make sure you can live with it before you take the plunge. Sorry to be negative, but I personally wish I'd put my money and effort into an original just because of this. It may not bother you one jot, but forewarned is forearmed as they say.
  6. I can't help you a great deal without tearing open blister packs, and I'm not ready to do that just yet. The Fighting Buggy re-re has supesion-travel stops built into the machined aluminium damper arms. For these to work properly you would also need the re-re rear bumper mounts, for them to stop up against. The re-re front suspension arms are larger than the original ones, to accomodate the larger plastic ball-cups. So you'll probably need either all re-re parts, or all vintage-style parts for these.
  7. Finished my Hotshot. I couldn't help but modify it just a tiny little bit. Roll on summer and trips to the beach!
  8. Procrastinate and just generally dither at length about whether to build them or not.
  9. I wasn't talking about lexan paint. That would be Tamiya PS, not TS. Other posters were mentioning both types. For hard bodies, usually polystyrene, the thinner the paint is applied, the better. Surface tension makes liquids pool, which helps to give a smooth finish when applying a wet coat. Unfortunately, liquids wont pool round corners. So the more paint you apply, the more difference in thickness there will be between the paint on the edges, and the paint away from the edges. This means that as more paint is applied, the corners and edges will round off and begin to lose their definition. Taken to extremes with a clear coat, your polystyrene body will eventually start to look more like lexan. Somewhat defeating the object of the greater detail of the hard plastic body, and giving the appearance of a rather unrealistic thickness of clearcoat.
  10. Halford's paint isn't all that different to Tamiya TS paint. Both are laquer based, dry quickly and set fairly hard. The main difference is that Halfords paint comes out of the nozzle about 6 times faster than Tamiya paint, which can be both good and bad. It's cheaper by volume, and quicker to apply. It will work really well on bodies like the Fighting Buggy where there isn't that much detail. It will work rather less well on highly detailed bodies like the Lancia 037 for 2 reasons. The thickness will round off the sharp edges on grilles, vents, door handles, and actually end up hiding detail. Due to the volume of spray there will be that much more that dries before it hits the surface and so it will need wet sanding between coats, which is easy enough on flat panels, but almost impossible on some fine details.
  11. @GooneyBird, those pics look awesome. The third one is indeed more than suitable for a Tamiya RC Guidebook. Mrs GooneyBird definitely deserves a pat on the back for that one. I wondered if you might head out to the beach over the last couple of days. Carpe diem and all that. looks great, hope you had fun!
  12. The 302 works well with the BZ, but you have to religiously stick to the recommended FDR. If I remember correctly that means a 17t pinion gear, but I'm not 100% on that. I'm happy to look it all up and do the maths if you get stuck. I've run this combo in a Novafox on the beach; in the really soft sand, and it stormed along. If that doesn't cause overheating problems, then other less demanding terrain should be no worries. The only problem I've had with this ESC is the relatively low servo current of 1A. Too low for modern quick servos, it'll make them operate sluggishly. But fine for the more basic ones.
  13. Well there's ebay, and there's probably a more local auction/sales site depending on where you are. Try to avoid using paypal to sell it in case of any potential dispute or scam, and the buyer collecting and paying by bank transfer or cash would be preferable with something like this that isn't easy to repair or replace if something goes wrong.
  14. That looks really nice. It's tricky to tell from your photos, but it looks like the front suspension, front bumper and the front body mount are all intact. You have all the old radio gear, batteries and charger, and even the MSC looks unburnt. Does it all work? I would say this is fairly desirable. Value is tricky because different people are prerared to pay different amounts, depending on how much they want one at that time. So all I can tell you is that if I didn't have one already, I'd be prepared to pay something between 200-400 USD depending on how much of it still worked. Note that even if the batteries are dead, the casings can be opened up to hide a modern battery inside while preserving the vintage look. As restorations go, that looks like a fairly simple one.
  15. On the TB01 Enzo Ferrari, the front shocks mount directly to the gearbox where the shock tower would mount if it was used. This will lay them down a little. But depending on how/where you drive it, it may not matter very much.
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