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Fuijo

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About Fuijo

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    Uithoorn Netherlands

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  1. If you hit something hard enough to break something, ideally you want that to be the cheapest and easiest to obtain part possible.
  2. I think the re-release market, and RC market in general, is starting to decline. I've just seen an Avante Black Special go on ebay for less than I paid for mine just after the second batch was available in the usual shops, and a Wild One go for only 8 Euros more than I paid for one of the last available shop stock ones. I put this down to people starting to lose interest as lockdown restrictions ease. Personally I don't think it's worth Tamiya, or anyone, putting money into new significant re-releases right now.
  3. There's this. Looks like shoe goo to me. https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=190241&lang=eng
  4. These are the wrong colour and slightly too long, but they will do the job to get you running again while you wait for the correct ones to become available. https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=445&lang=eng
  5. There's not really much I can get on with building so far this year. Because of various construction projects both at and near to where I live, there's just too much dust for painting. So I have to confine myself to fitting hop-ups to existing cars for now. My Lancia had previously been treated to a steel pinion, Tamiya alloy motor mount and some black TRF shocks, and today it was fitted with the thicker Tamiya prop shaft and the GPM alloy steering set (which I really quite like). It's not much, but it's an excuse to post some pics, which I haven't done in a while. P1010940 by James H, on Flickr P1010941 by James H, on Flickr P1010938 by James H, on Flickr P1010936 by James H, on Flickr I like this car so much that I've gone and bought another, Ooopsa!
  6. Another great read. Thanks for posting it. It's reassuring to hear that it's not a particularly fragile car. I haven't managed to pluck up the courage to run mine yet. It seems I'm missing out on a lot of fun.
  7. It sounds like we're doing the same thing. Tamiya cement is liquid poly by the look of it, and the clamp is because I'm too lazy to hold it together for 10-12 minutes.
  8. I use liquid polystyrene cement to glue the helmet together, and have never needed to use filler on them so far. Making sure to keep the joint vertical so that excess liquid glue runs down the seam rather than between my fingers and the part, I apply a fairly generous amount to the joint and clamp gently together. As the plastic melts and welds together, the pressure from the clamp pushes material outwards from the joint. Effectively self-filling. When sanded smooth it looks like the 2 halves of the helmet were moulded as a single part.
  9. Great write-up. It reads like a professionally written magazine article. Top stuff!
  10. Regarding the diff, it sounds like you just set it tight without breaking anything.Which is good. With the tools recommended in the manual you would have to be built like a brick outhouse to damage it. For maintenance, just take off the rear diff cover after first removing the rear bumper. That's it. You can then pull out the diff and dogbones. As for the suspension, I think in hindsight that it can be a rabbit-hole you may not want to go down. If you build it as per the manual, it will look and work like it does in Matteo's vid. If like me you decide that realistically, it is an on-road car and that a more realistic stance would go better with the fantastic body, then it's cutting bits out of lower suspension arms, threaded shock bodies, and before you know it, it has cost more then the kit. I have TRF shocks on mine. Yes, really! In my defence they were taken from a track-car that I passed on to someone else, and I had nothing else they would fit on. But it's still a bit like fitting Öhlins suspension to a wheelbarrow. I doubt it handles any better than Matteo's. It's a great looking car. Have fun with the build!
  11. @irocdave12 The length shouldn't be too much of a problem on the MB chassis. You know those bushings that everyone hates? The metal 850-sized ones can be used to extend the battery retaining plates to give more room.
  12. When riding a motorcycle it is perfectly possible (and very stupid, but I was young and therefore obviously immortal) to negotiate smooth B-road corners quite quickly, without touching the bars at all. Just by loading bodyweight through the footpegs. I think the T3-01's rather crude suspension is more of a limiting factor. Though the hop-ups do seem to help a bit, a perfectly smooth surface helps more. That sounds completely awesome! I hope you try to do it!
  13. As far as I remember, all the light buckets had holes for 3mm LED's. But I used 1.4mm micro LED's for mine, which i fitted to styrene tube and then inserted in the light buckets, so it's a bit difficult for me to measure them now without disassembling them. Sorry I didn't catch the other thread earlier. I didn't get an alert I think because of the lowercase f.
  14. I think you may be misunderstanding me. Conventional trikes are inherently unstable, like robin reliants and the majority of other 3-wheeled vehicles including motorcycles with sidecars. That's what the roll-over bar is trying to prevent around the front wheel of the flamingo. The carver leaning chassis design goes a long way to improve this by being more akin to a 2-wheeled vehicle. The Flamingo looks very nice and scale with lots of details, but its dynamics are inferior to the T3-01. I was a keen motorcyclist for many years and have ridden real motorcycle-trike conversions. I am not a fan.
  15. Each to their own of course, but for me the whole point of the Dancing/Dual Rider is the leaning chassis. It's what gives it its charm, like the full size Carver. The Flamingo is just a car with a missing wheel.
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