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About Fuijo

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    Uithoorn Netherlands

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  1. Yep I'm with you on this. For me the best handling buggy is the Super Champ and its rere. Simply because the way it handles on sand gives me the most pleasure and biggest grins of all my buggies.
  2. https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=1043&lang=eng Not exactly cheap, but available.
  3. It's shocking isn't it? It looks terrible. Far, far worse than the jacked up rear and dodgy wheelbase of the Lancia 037. I don't see the point of bringing out a nostalgic release, then making sure no one wants it for nostalgic purposes by compromising its looks for handling. Rere's aren't supposed to handle like a modern Tamiya, Tamiya! That's not why we buy them. What's next? A rere of 58028 on a TT-01?
  4. modellbau seidel have them in stock if you can get someone local to get them for you.
  5. Mine's from the back of the manual. A massive wall of Japanese text, with the helpful words "For japanese use only" added at the bottom. Which was good, as I might have been tempted to use it otherwise. What perplexed me slightly more was that some manuals have "for use in Japan only" instead. So I like to imagine that they had an issue with a Japanese guy living say in Europe, who insisted "but I am Japanese". Why can't I use it?
  6. If I were you, I'd look out for a shell that's been painted to a high standard rather than an XB shell. Expert built is a bit of a misnomer. They don't even bother removing the mould lines on the wheel arches. Which looks a bit rubbish.
  7. At Tamico it isn't. It's the other way around. Personally I wouldn't read anything particularly meaningful into it. Might not have anything to do with Tamiya at all.
  8. An expertly built Tamiya body shell is a beautiful thing indeed. Stunning! I love the Guide Book style photo. You should do more, and then put together a Guide Book. I'd buy one.
  9. It depends on whether the motor was getting up to full rpm or not. If the acceleration to top speed is almost instant with all the pinion gears you tried, then the pinion is too small. But for this to be the case, the top speed would be different with each pinion. If the motor is quickly reaching sustained full rpm, but the car is slow to accelerate and has a low top speed, then either the pinion is slipping on the motor shaft, the power is overwhelming the diffs and they're slipping, or the wheels are spinning inside the tyres. If the motor is not reaching sustained full rpm, then either the pinion is too big, the battery can't handle the demand, the wheels are bigger than standard, or something is binding. Does the motor get hot? This is all assuming neither the motor or battery are faulty. It's probably worth inspecting the diffs anyway. Even if they were adjusted correctly to begin with, and the spring was compressed a few times before installing, there's probably going to be a bit of bedding-in required. They should probably be readjusted after the first battery pack. Signs of slipping or not will likely be visible when you strip them down.
  10. If there was no difference in acceleration between the 16t and 21 tooth pinions, I don't believe it's a gearing issue.
  11. The quoted FDR for the Egress 2013 seems a bit off. After pulling mine apart and counting the teeth on the gears, it seems the internal ratio is 2.778:1 ** The final drive ratio with the stock 22t pinion should be 8.3333:1, or just FDR 8.3333 21t pinion FDR 8.731 20t pinion FDR 9.167 19t pinion FDR 9.650 18t pinion FDR 10.186 17t pinion FDR 10.785 16t pinion FDR 11.459 Assuming the Superstock BZ motor pictured in the manual is what Tamiya intended to be fitted, it's a bit confusing that they included a 22 tooth pinion. The recommended ratios for the BZ are from 9.1 to 11.1. Probably the 9.1 would be for a light 2wd car, and the 11.1 for a heavy 4wd car. The Egress is fairly light, but 4wd. So somewhere in the middle, say around 10.1 might be a good place to start. So why didn't they go for an 18 tooth pinion? A 13.5 brushless motor gives approximately the same KV as a superstock BZ with no load, but should have quite a bit more torque and easily be able to turn a bigger pinion than the BZ. You say you've tried pinions from 16 to 21 teeth, and not noticed much of a difference? quite frankly it should absolutely fly on most of those ratios with a 10.5 turn brushless motor unless the battery can't supply the current (are you using LiPo?), or the diffs are slipping. **Internal gearing, going on front gearbox Spur gear 66 teeth Spur pinion 18 teeth Counter gear spur 20 teeth Counter gear pinion 12 teeth Diff gear 30 teeth 22 tooth Pinion to spur ratio 66/22 spur pinion to counter gear spur ratio 20/18 counter gear pinion to diff ratio 30/12 FDR with a 22 tooth pinion (66/22) x (20/18) x (30/12) = 3 x 1.1111 x 2.5 = 8.3333 (working to 4 significant figures)
  12. After priming with T's fine surface primer, I just wash it in lukewarm water with a bit of dishwashing liquid, and leave it to dry thoroughly underneath an upturned plastic crate to protect it from dust. Using tack cloths is risky because they can leave a stickyness on the surface that contaminants can stick to. The problem your pics show can also be caused by paint that isn't mixed very well. I always shake the cans for several minutes, up to 5 or so, particularly in less than searingly hot weather, and stand the can in the sink with bath-temperature water about half way up the can for another 5 minutes.
  13. A superb write-up, with some beautiful pics. That second video though, wow! How did you even manage to see where you were going? It sounds like a very exciting race. Was that enough to stop you from dropping into a little heap on the floor with the extreme fatigue? 1000 laps is hard to get my head around. I was pretty tired after a 20 minute stint at the old track, with sweaty and shaking hands. Amazing stuff! And congratulations on such a great result.
  14. Lower arm plate - https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=63247&lang=eng upper arms - https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=68384&lang=eng body set including wing - https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=68166&lang=eng
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