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About Fuijo

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  1. If anyone is confused by the apparent contradiction, you can see on the photo a few posts above of, erm, my Fighting Buggy, that the only place the oil hose sticks out from the body is by the left rear wheel. I believe that it's not really practical to make this loop any smaller without making the bend too tight. The Super Champ used a different routing. A direct route between the bottle and the shock. But the hose is only supported at the points where it makes a connection to bottle and shock. Every time the shock moves so does the hose, and at right angles to the bottle connection. So it was no great surprise that leaks were very common at this point. At least where it connects to the shock the movement is in line with the way the pipe fits to it, not pulling it side to side. The Fighting Buggy routing is much better. The bottle joint doesn't move at all with suspension movement because the hose is fixed up until a point much further away from the shock, and so the loop sticking out of the side of the car can be smaller. One can of course revert back to the Super Champ routing for looks or whatever, but it leaked. Once the Fighting Buggy o-rings have been replaced for decent ones, it doesn't leak.
  2. No that's right. I don't have this buggy. Lol.
  3. Not really, no. At least not by very much. The rear shock has a large range of movement, not only as it compresses, but as the suspension articulates the entire shock moves side to side by quite a bit. If you don't allow enough length of hose for this movement it will just get ripped off and dump the oil everywhere. It is not possible to keep the hose inside the confines of the body because of the large range of movement the shock travels through. You could change it to a black hose like on the original Super Champ so that it doesn't stand out as much, but that would make getting all the air bubbles out more difficult.
  4. Thanks! They are yes. 1mm for the driver, 2mm for the trike body. The Avante Black Special makes me think of Tron for some reason too. I did like that film.
  5. Finished all the mechanical work on my T3-01 Dual Rider driver. I just need to paint him now. Inspiration from PDC Designworks website. P1010864 by James H, on Flickr P1010857 by James H, on Flickr P1010856 by James H, on Flickr P1010840 by James H, on Flickr
  6. They are all 3 much of a muchness. The gear ratios are taking into account that off-road wheels are significantly larger than touring car wheels, which is why the BZ recommends around FDR 10 and the other two around FDR 7. All three will work fine in the Egress with the BZ's recommended ratio, you just wont get the little sock thingy unless you buy the BZ.
  7. The rear spool is actually something of a good thing on high-grip surfaces. Under power the understeer is so bad that it almost wont turn at all. Which is good because a roll at full speed could completely destroy the body. If you want to turn, you have to slow down and slow down a lot to avoid rolling it. Fitting a diff will just make it turn better and make a roll at high speed more likely. Like the full size vehicle, the on-road handling is dreadful. A combination of high ground clearance, very basic suspension and an engine fairly high up behind the rear axle do not make for a good handling car. But these same characteristics made it surprisingly competent off-road, or at least on farm tracks and rural unpaved roads. Which was a good thing like it was for the Citroen 2CV. So when these cars were changing hands for a few pints of beer, they made a great starting base for a inexpensive dune buggy. Some of the off-road ability was already there. Making one into a good road car is rather more difficult. It would be better and cheaper to use something else. Same for the 1/10th version really. £100 seems too cheap to me for an XB body. It cost me more than that to buy and paint my spare body in box-art colours. I think I've spent around £900 or so on my rere Scorcher to date. So if I wanted a box-art body and couldn't or didn't want to paint my own I wouldn't even blink at £300 for a rare XB one, unless Tamiya started selling them again.
  8. Any excuse to post some pics of my favourite RC car will do. It's looking a bit less shiny than it was 4 years ago. Trips to the beach will do that I guess. Hopefully it will whet a few appetites for the upcoming re-release. P1010847 by James H, on Flickr P1010848 by James H, on Flickr P1010849 by James H, on Flickr P1010850 by James H, on Flickr P1010851 by James H, on Flickr P1010852 by James H, on Flickr P1010853 by James H, on Flickr P1010854 by James H, on Flickr P1010855 by James H, on Flickr
  9. You may consider it profiteering in the context of the situation you find yourself in. But Tamiya have no clue about your situation and obviously wont be taking it into account in any way when they set their prices. Why on earth should they? It isn't profiteering when you don't have to buy it. And you don't. You have other cars. You could wait until this situation you find yourself in comes to an end. Or you can wait until the price gets reduced because everyone who wants one already has one. So please, enough with the profiteering! Did you get that from a reliable source, or did you read it in the entrails of a chicken?
  10. Don't whatever you do! They're like little, tiny, relatively affordable**, Tamiya jewelry. Particularly when you get carried away with the hop-ups https://d7z22c0gz59ng.cloudfront.net/cms/img/usr/inst/parts/T301_PARTS_CATALOG.pdf They're just so stupidly funny to drive. Oh please do that. And have the rat holding a Go-Pro and post the vid. That would be awesome. **This might not necessarily be true. It's possible to buy far too many hop-ups. Even useless ones. Apparently.
  11. Getting there with my Dual Rider. I haven't been this impatient with a build since my first RC kit when I was a kid. Painted in between rain showers for that professional look. The driver will have to wait though. Went a bit mad with installing the rear lights. Probably not road legal. P1010844 by James H, on Flickr P1010843 by James H, on Flickr P1010842 by James H, on Flickr P1010841 by James H, on Flickr
  12. No, this is what you are doing. With this, and this. Nobody knows whether they are overpriced or not unless they work for Tamiya. The Chinese Bruiser is not in any way comparable to the Tamiya one. Tamiya use their own R&D, they don't steal other peoples. Tamiya have ethical working practices. But you know that, which is why you posted and legged it.
  13. Well, I'm someone who knows that model car kits are a necessity for no one.
  14. This is simply not true though is it? Another completely baseless accusation. The Cambridge dictionary defines profiteering as "the act of taking advantage of a situation in order to make a profit, usually by charging high prices for things people need". I could understand the accusation for items on your weekly food and essential supplies shopping list where you feel you don't have any choice whether to buy it or not, but a toy car? Come off it. You don't need a toy car, you just want one. People in genuinely miserable situations aren't going to be thinking about buying toy cars at all. If you don't like the price, just don't buy it. If enough people agree and also don't buy it, the price will come down. If they don't it wont.
  15. I agree with GTodd. I don't really understand the point of complaining about the prices, much less throwing the occasional insult like "greedy" around. Tamiya are in business to make money. As much money as they can. As long as they aren't doing anything illegal or unethical, I don't see any problem with that. There are large numbers of people who have returned to the hobby because of the re-releases. Either because they were one of the lucky few who had one as a kid and want to relive those happy memories, or perhaps more commonly, because they simply couldn't afford one back in the day. I don't remember anyone I knew complaining about it back then. If you couldn't afford one, then that was that. You just accepted it, or you took every newspaper round, Saturday job or just any odd job you could get, until after usually a very long time you had enough to buy one. Complaining about the price was pointless and got you nowhere. Everyone knew that, so no one did. Tamiya charge what the market will bear. In fact, as has been proven several times, they often charge below what the market will bear. The Avante Black special was over 400USD when it was first released, then by the end of the first batch changed hands on ebay for 1000USD, then dropped to below 400USD by the tail end of the second batch. There was a similar pattern with the Fighting Buggy, and now again with the Wild One to name but a few. If people can and do pay prices way in excess of the official release price, how are Tamiya charging too much? The price is the price. It will fluctuate massively over several years. So you do your research, find out when it's likely to be as cheap as it's going to get, and then you either decide if you can afford it and whether it's worth that much to you. If you can and it is then you buy it. If you can't or it's not then you don't.
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