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About Fuijo

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  1. Make sure part BD3 is fitted in step 1. It's easy to overlook.
  2. It's laquer-based paint, just without any pigment. It sets as hard as the other TS paints. Applying it over the top of your colour coats will protect them against light scratches which can then be polished out. I don't see any reason why you couldn't keep applying it to keep up that protection. The more coats, the more protection, which will need to be balanced against the level of detail you wish to preserve and the appearance of a scale thickness of clearcoat. Obviously if the scratches are deep enough to penetrate through to the primer or plastic, then the area will need repainting. No idea about polyurethane.
  3. You can definitely fit F1 wheels. I ran my Nissan R91CP at our local track with them. Off the top of my head I think you just remove the hubs for the GroupC wheels and they go straight on. It doesn't look as good as the kit wheels, but it works. EDIT: Just checked the manual. Yep, you remove the A2 parts, and replace them with the F1 wheels. It's a bit fiddly on the diff side. EDIT2: I've just checked my order history at Tamico.de. On 30/10/2016 I paid 9.99 Euros for a set of R91CP wheels. Today, this guy on ebay wants 75.00 GBP for them. Insane! https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TAMIYA-1-10-NISSAN-R91CP-GROUP-C-RC-CAR-SPARE-WHEELS-4430F-4445R-C11-XJR-12/233623054304?hash=item366504e7e0:g:bQcAAOSw0eRe64Ze
  4. No idea where you are, but here's some - https://tamico.de/Tamiya-Hauptwellengelenke-2-Stk-HotShot-9808130
  5. I would disagree with mongoose1983 and Jonathon. 4WD buggies leave me cold driving them in isolation. Not enough drama for me. I find the Scorcher's handling entertaining on a beach, and the weight helps it ride the sand in a pleasing and realistic way. It's also a far more beautiful object than the Boomerang in my opinion.
  6. I did exactly the same thing with a Fighting Buggy recently. I was sorting through my spares and realised I had slightly over half the parts already. I decided that unless they re-release it for a 3rd time it might be my last chance. Then it started to get expensive, so I bought fewer parts at once leaving big enough gaps to forget the previous deliveries (about 3 days, age is taking its toll), which worked. Sort of. Well, no it didn't, but I have them all now so it's done.
  7. It's the highly sophisticated damping system for the front shocks. D1 takes a single O-ring, D7 takes 2 O-rings. So you might have to swap D1 for D7 depending on which you fitted. So it might completely ruin the handling. EDIT: Changed incorrect part no. D2 to D7. Sometimes I see twos where there are only sevens, which is why they wont let me be an airline pilot.
  8. ..... without cutting the body. Here's my Hornet, still in fairly good condition. It must be getting on for 18 years old now. I do prefer the look of the Grasshopper body, and wanted to get one before everything Tamiya sold out everywhere in something-to-do-during-lockdown fever. So seeking to become part of the problem, I headed to Tamico's website for some retail therapy. Well, they were all sold out, except for a couple of XB ones. I don't really like XB hard-plastic bodies because they don't remove the mould lines and are a bit tight with the clear laquer, but it was pretty cheap, cheaper than buying all the seperate parts and the paint and materials, so I bought one anyway and crossed my fingers that it would look ok. It does I guess. I must say it is quite remarkable how well they get the stickers to go over the mould lines with no air bubbles or wrinkles. I thought I was pretty good with stickers, but this is like witchcraft. I hunted around a bit online to see about how it fits, and most solutions seemed to involve cutting the body to clear the rear shock mounts. There was no way I was going to cut bits off an XB body. Aside from any aesthetic considerations, I'd have to repaint the edges of the bits I'd cut out, and I wouldn't be able to easily sell it on if I changed my mind and didn't like it. So I decided to fiddle about and see if there was any other way. First step, remove the shock top mounts and the front body post. Then test fit the body. Wow! That sits much lower than I thought it would. In fact the entire mount is visible I think. Yep! I can even put the screw in without touching the body. Ok, so it's not only the screws for the shock mounts that are in the way, the body of the actual shock fouls the body too. However, the screws are the immediate problem, so I wanted to see if anything could be done with them first, then worry about the shock body later. The tube BD2 seemed quite a bit longer than it needed to be. The manual states 4x6mm, but mine were 4x6.5mm for some reason. I found some 4mm tube in my spares box and cut 2 lengths of 4.3mm which I felt was as small as I could go while still having a little bit of play at full articulation/compression so that I didn't risk bending the shock or chassis. I also changed the 3x12mm screws for countersunk ones. Close, but no cigar. They are much narrower than they were, but they are still wider than the body allows. But because the screw isn't parallel to the ground but tilted up slightly the body will clear part of the screw which gains me a couple of mm from where I was before I started. Hmph! Big deal. If I want the Hornet rear suspension and I don't want to cut the body or change the shocks, then as far as I can see the only remaining option is to raise the body. So after a rummage in the spare parts box I found the parts D1 that I had left over from the build. They fit neatly over the body mount on the chassis like so. And very coveniently indeed, into the body too. So everything back together again...... ........and that's how it fits. Am I lucky, or am I lucky? The body is a few mm higher than standard, but personally I'm very pleased with it. Particularly as it uses parts that already come with the kit. All that's needed to swap back to the Hornet body is to remove the spacers D1 and refit the front body post.
  9. A bit cheaper at Tamico - https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=243820&lang=eng
  10. The rere doesn't need them. The suspension arms are bigger to allow for larger balljoints.
  11. They are in the Super Champ manual, step 16. It doesn't explain why, but they're to stop the upright/suspension arm balljoints from coming apart. There's several cable tie solutions on the Super Champ, sorry, hop-ups.
  12. Tamico has them, and for the time being there's no import charges from Germany. https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=6471&lang=eng The Mountain Rider too, which is a lot cheaper for some reason. https://tamico.de/Tamiya-47394-Mountain-Rider-2014-Kit
  13. For me it's anything with a hard plastic body that I spend a lot of time and effort on and get a good result. Add that to the improvements, and I'd go with the Fighting Buggy - much better finish on the metal parts, proper suspension travel limiters rather than cable ties, and a TRF rear shock.
  14. I'm looking forward to seeing this. I hugely enjoyed building mine, and now I can watch you building yours which is almost as good, and much cheaper, than me buying another one to build. I hope you have loads of fun with it. Following.
  15. I would think there's a fair chance any of your motors would be ok in that on 6-7.2v. If you're going for higher volts for more rpm then you may need water cooling. I would go with what you have and check how hot the motor gets after a few minutes.
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