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Fuijo

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Everything posted by Fuijo

  1. The fine surface primer does not need wet sanding as I wrote above. Not sure about the normal stuff. If it does, wet sanding flat panels is straightforward. Fine intricate detail, not so much. Try a bit on scrap plastic and see.
  2. I agree with TwistedxSlayer. Also the gearing for the BZ takes into account the larger size of off-road wheels. You need to go with the recommended ratio for the RZ/TZ that are intended for touring car use. Something like 6.5ish?
  3. @Mechanic AHYou're welcome. There can be some good painting days in winter. Sunny, dry and crisp. It's moisture you need to be careful of. If the air is anywhere close to reaching its dewpoint, then it's best to skip it that day. Paint does take longer to dry, but if you wait until it no longer smells of paint then you'll know for sure that it's cured.
  4. In theory that should be impossible. The tyre is locked around the bead between the centre of the wheel and the two outer covers. See manual steps 20 and 21 - https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/hornet.pdf I've never heard of them coming off before. Are you using a hugely powerful brushless motor in an attempt to send it into orbit?
  5. All the TS range have the same laquer base. So in theory, say you have a 2 colour paint scheme like a box art Sand Scorcher for example. If you apply a thick coat of TS13 it can soften the paint below it. In extreme cases this could cause the colours beneath to run into each other. On a hot sunny day the TS13 will dry so fast that you can get away with a fairly thick coat. On a cold day it will take much longer to dry. What you want to avoid is a wet coat on top of other similar paint, that stays wet for a while. The longer it stays wet, the more chance it will soften the paint underneath. You want the thinner, or solvent part of the paint, to "gas off" before this happens. The same can happen to stickers if you are painting clear coat on top of them. With very light dust coats, the solvent wont stay liquid long enough to attack them. I've had thick coats of Halfords paint take several weeks to cure hard enough to be immune to fingerprints in winter. Even when sprayed indoors. But one wet coat of Halfords paint is like 6 or more wet coats of TS paint all at once. I don't like to use filler on RC car bodies because I like to use heat from a hairdryer to shrink the stickers to any compound curves and to seal the edges. If the styrene body material and the filler expand and contract at different temperatures, the filler could become visible where it wasn't before. Instead I make a powder out of the sprue or unused parts, melt it into a paste with liquid polystyrene cement, and use that instead. The cement melts and welds the plastic together and will sand at the same rate, and have the same properties, as the body material around it. EDIT: A few more tips. When using TS or PS spray, always shake it for 2 minutes like the instuctions on the can say. And then do it for another 2 minutes. You don't know how long the can has been sitting around. Could be a couple of days, could be a couple of years. Then run some water in the sink at hot bath water temperature and stand the can in it so that the water comes about 2/3 of the way up the can. Leave it there for 5 minutes, dry it off, and then shake it a bit more. Spray the first bit away into the air to check it sprays the way you expect it to. I highly recommend using Tamiya fine surface primer as a base. It gives a lovely uniform porcelain-like finish that doesn't require wet-sanding. Just wait for it to dry and then using a large soft paintbrush wash it all over with warm water and a little dishwashing liquid. Let it dry and then apply colour. Note that this primer cannot handle water at the temperature I desribed above (for warming the can). Use lukewarm water for this.
  6. TS13 is just paint like any of the TS range. It just doesn't have any pigment in it. I think it's always good to apply it over your paintwork because it provides a surface that can be polished; at first to give a nice shiny finish, and later to remove light scratches, without removing any of the colour coat. High gloss wet coats that require little to no polishing are difficult to acheive unless you do a lot of spray painting. The smallest error will result in runs in the paint. So it is much safer to paint in lighter coats with lots of room for error and then polish them when they're dry. The danger of polishing the colour coat directly, is that you could end up polishing through to the primer and having to paint all over again. Better to have a few layers of clear on top. That way you can keep on polishing it while the polishing cloth shows no trace of the colour coat on it. If, and as soon as it does, stop polishing, degrease the surface, add more clear, and then polish that. I just use automotive (Autoglym resin) polish. Here's a link to my showroom - https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=46480 The Buggy Champ uses TS13 with stickers on top. The Orange/Cream/Black Sand Scorcher body uses automotive (Halfords) clear laquer with stickers on top. The box art Scorcher body uses TS13 with stickers on top. The Fighting Buggy uses automotive (Halfords) clear laquer with stickers on top. The Lancia 037 uses TS13 both under and over the stickers. The driver's crash helmets on all cars except the XR311, Hornet and Frog use TS13.
  7. It isn't. But the gearing may well be, at least as a starting point. If the motor/ESC gets hot then fit a larger spur or smaller pinion until it doesn't. If it reaches top speed too quickly, fit a smaller spur or larger pinion.
  8. The internal gear ratio is 2.6. So to get your FDR (spur teeth divided by pinion teeth) x 2.6. What FDR you need will depend on whether you are running the plastic drivetrain, the metal drivetrain, or a combination of both. I would gear a 10t brushless motor about the same as a Superstock RZ/TZ, but if you are using the metal diff crown gears you may have to go lower still.
  9. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=98259 Yeah, you can glue them to the body with a tiny bit of liquid polystyrene cement. It welds the plastic parts together, but needs to be done before painting.
  10. You've made a lovely job of that. It looks fantastic. I can't wait to see you on a real one. Your knees will be up around your ears. Heh heh!
  11. @GooneyBird Sand Scorcher? Beach? Wheelies? I'm in!
  12. Thanks! I'm not mad keen on the body; the driver is too far forward for my tastes. But I love the look of the chassis, which looks more suited to beach running than the Egress or Avante. Does anyone know if those body shells will fit?
  13. The gear ratios for the DF03ra are in the manual step 5. https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/df03ra.pdf You have both standard pinions, and both standard spurs. The ratios with these go from 7.161 to 8.218. I can't see the kit motor particularly struggling whatever you choose from these. As far as I can tell from the DF03 manual the internal ratio looks the same as the DF03ra, but with a different pinion/spur ratio of 26/78 which is probably to allow for the larger wheels. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use either of your motors with the stock gearing. EDIT: The internal gear ratio for both cars is 3.055**. So for the DF03, (78/26) x 3.055 = a final drive ratio of 9.165. ** (55/22) x (22/18) = 2.5 x 1.222 = 3.055
  14. You need to fit the tyre to the wheel before you paint the lettering, because the force required to get the wheel into the tyre will damage the paint. You might get away with it on that front tyre, but you are unlikely to with the rears. A cotton bud dipped in Tamiya thinners will allow you to quickly clean off the paint from a letter if you aren't happy with it, likewise a cocktail stick dipped in same thinners can be used to clean up the edge of a letter. (Assuming you are using PS1)
  15. Modellbau-Seidel have them in stock. https://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=9115022 They wont ship outside Germany, but you could maybe ask a TC member who lives there if they are willing to send them on to you.
  16. Actually, I might have goofed a bit there. It was my TA that I changed to imperial gears, I used mod .04 gears on my TB. I don't know if there are any imperial spur gears that will mount to the propshaft. My bad. Looks like Tamico at least still have quite a few mod .04 TB01 spurs in stock if you need some. https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=2454&lang=eng https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=2954&lang=eng
  17. My first port of call would be an alloy motor mount. I think you'll need the strength and the gearing options. You can then use imperial spur and pinion gears which are cheap and on the shelf in every model shop. I would also go with the steel propshaft. If you use the alloy one you'll eat through lots of rear pinion gears, and if you use the carbon one it'll split where the carbon bit meets the metal bit, and leave you with 2WD. Watching with interest!
  18. Did you change the gear ratio to suit the 17t motor? If not then I would think that would cause a problem like you describe.
  19. Be aware that the car is already set up to drive like a RWD car. See matteo's video. Converting it to RWD will probably make it undriveable.
  20. If all they are willing to do is reimburse the difference, then effectively they've sold you a product you didn't want or ask for. Which isn't reasonable. It might be worth, again politely, pointing this out.
  21. I've done it both ways, and continue to do so. I have no real preference for either and am happy with both.
  22. I didn't make a reflector. The light from the bulbs is very diffuse, so with a reflector the headlights work very well and look realistic. At the rear they were far too bright for 1970's single-candle-power rear lights, so without a reflector and covered in red paint they lose the diffuse effect and are more just pinpoints of red light. Because thay are so small they fit directly behind the red part of the lens and not the white or orange part. The effect is good enough to be convincing.
  23. I used Alclad chrome through a rubbish airbrush. Tamiya fine surface primer - Alclad gloss black - Alclad chrome - leave for 1 day then Alclad aqua clear. Yeah I don't know. I ran it for about 5 minutes, put it back on the charger for storage voltage and it was already there. But we'll see. I have one already just in case, but thanks for the tip. I have. These, as they are up front, and painted red at the rear to dull them slightly - https://www.componentshop.co.uk/12-v-warm-white-micro-led.html They are about the same size as scale bulbs would be.
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