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GooneyBird

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About GooneyBird

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  • Birthday 08/27/1987

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    The Netherlands
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    Anything that goes vroom!

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  1. TT03. I can just about taste it. xD In terms of re-re, I'd like to see some sort of riff on the OG red-and-white Clod. Perhaps a color-edition? The Wrangler on the CC02 would be amazing, and really scale-correct.
  2. For the tight track I'd go with the 58t spur. That'll give you the widest range of FDRs to play with. Find one that keeps the motor temps under control. Alternatively, gear it so that it reaches peak RPM just before you start braking on the long straight. Outdoor just go as big as you dare. I'm running a 25/55 outdoors.
  3. I'm currently running a 25/55 ratio. This works for most outdoor tracks with a 25t Carson Cup Machine. I can imagine with a 17t you'd want to gear it a little lighter. What size tracks are you guys running?
  4. Cool! That's the first time I've seen those universal-style body posts above the wheels. Those are usually specific to the chassis and not those universal screw-in-from-below types.
  5. And after a week of being sick as a dog (I dunno, I felt a bit ruff!) I'm back at building stuff again. Progress has been slow as on the one hand I've fallen ill with a man-flu (Oh the horrors!) and on the other hand my job completely drains me of any energy to to anything at the end of the day. Long story and not for this thread. Anyway, I've gotten all the suspension arms on and shimmed out. As anticipated I'd put on one backwards. Because that's how amazing I am. With all those on the car is starting to look more and more car-ish. I've also assembled the front knuckles with the universals, shimmed them out, and popped them in. I'm running the Massive front bumper (as opposed to the Small-ish, Kinda-normal, Big-but-still-okay, and Really-Big ones) as it seems to fit the body I have in mind for it best. As this is going to be a racing car I'm going to run a PF LTCR2.0 on it, that it shares with the TRF. See how much handling I can get out of this beastie. Time to assemble the steering! I've bought a set of Low-Friction step screws for the crosslink arm, and that really tightens up the whole assembly. It felt a bit sloppy, but that 99% due to the worn-out step screws in the arms. Good stuff! Underneath the step screws I'm running a small washer to prevent the plastics from eating into each-other. It's saved the arms so far, and there's no need to change something that just works. For a servo saver I've decided to go with the good ol' 51000 High Torque servo saver. Up until now I've been running the stock TT01 plastic servo saver, but after disassembly I've found hairline fractures in the plastic ring that acts as a spring. I could have probably dug up a new one of those, but I figured in the name of reliability I'd best go with a self-resetting servo saver and Tamiya's is one of the best. Much to my surprise the draglink is pretty much straight. As if this was meant to be! The geometry seems to work just fine, after a bit of careful trimming of the arm (a small bit off the back as it fouled on the tub) to allow for full lock. And with the servo installed you're halfway to installing all of the electronics, so that was a small step in further completing the car. I'd trimmed the excess wire off at some point and installed a Tamiya switch to the ESC when I first installed it in the previous incarnation of the car, so installation was nice and neat. I've deliberately left the wires of the motor long, as this thing changes motors frequently as required by various rulebooks. In fact, next summer I might run a brushless motor in it (Gasp!) to comply with 2020 club rules.
  6. Don't forget primer. This etches the surface and makes the paint stick way better. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is what I use, though any reasonably fine primer should work. (So not the stuff you'd use to paint a shed. )
  7. No worries, ask away! I currently run a fully locked spool in the front. HERE are my musings on diffs for a TT. Indoors this helped a great deal with traction coming out of a corner. You could be on the throttle earlier and harder, and the nose would pull in instead of washing out. A bit weird at first, but once you get used to it you can actually use the throttle to get the car to rotate a lot sooner and quicker. There is a downside though, everything in the front drivetrain wears a LOT quicker with a spool versus a diff. Outdoors I've found a spool to have less benefits. I ran one in the enduro, but I feel that if I'd run a 'heavy' diff, such as an oil-filled diff or a putty'd diff I'd have less tire wear for the same lap times. I'm currently debating putting the spool back in versus running a diff. I've found that the AW grease method works for maybe 10 packs, and then the grease simply flings out of the diff. Putty sounds like something I'd like to try, though the TT02RR oil filled diff is a rather appetizing hop-up. (If a bit expensive for what it is). Oh, and the rear is 100% open all the time. TTs can be a bit tail-happy at the best of times, so anything to help that rear stay planted is welcome. My rear diff just as a small (SMALL!) dot of grease in there to keep the gears happy, but is otherwise completely dry. I'm just helping her be all she can be. There are enough Cup Racer parts in there to carry the spirit forward into the TT01DRE. Anyway, onto the things I did today. As I said before I couldn't run the standard 'fat' dogbones as they fouled on the lower arms. Too bad, as I'd finally manage to bag a set of wide axles extra so the car could be 190mm all around. Too bad. Today I bought a set of TG10 wide arms, along with diff outdrives to match. (And a set of low-friction step screws. @qatmix had great things to say about those in a TT02 build on his website so I got a set. Also, I'm trying to have the whole car be hex hardware, but that already failed. More on that later. And here's the drivetrain in all its glory. Fronts are universals from the parts bin, and the rears are 39mm steel dogbones combined with TG10 wide axles. On the rear I'm running 2 degree toe-in blocks. I really really wanted to use e-clips and hinge pins on the rear, Tamiya makes a 3x22 hinge pin set for the DF02 that should fit, but I could not find 3x32 hinge pins to use in the lower holes. So alas, I had to break out the Tamiya screw driver, polish up the screw pins, and use those.... Yeah.... Here are the front suspension arms laid out in bits. I'm using the TT02 steel low friction suspension balls, as the plastic ones tend to come apart if you look at them wrong. These are great little things, and I've yet to see any wear on them. The way these arms work is simple but ingenious. The turnbuckle goes in one hole to pull the halves apart or push them together, and a dowel pin goes in the other hole to prevent the whole thing from rotating itself out of alignment. Tamiya, anticipating numbnutses like me, helpfully placed an arrow on the hole where the pin goes. When doing anything turnbuckle-related on a car it's always a good idea to have all four of them face the same way. That way, when you put a wrench on them when setting up camber it's the same direction on all four ends. In this case, forward (in travel direction) is longer, and backwards is shorter. However, this makes building a bit more involved, as you constantly check and double-check to make sure you've got everything the right way around, and that includes the rears already on the car. With the TRF this was way easier, as all you needed to make were 4 turnbuckles with ball connectors, and that's it. If you have one the wrong way around on that car, you pop it off, flip it around and put it back on. Not so much with the TT and its intricately molded suspension arms. Remind me that this up is front, and down is back. So I don't go and install one backwards, because I totally see that happening.
  8. I so want to high-five you right now. I've been wanting to do this for the longest while. My wife is an avid JP fan, and short of us owning a real-life Wrangler this is the closest we can get. I've been on the lookout for a good secondhand CC01 Wranger, but every car I come across is either wrecked to the hilt, unbelievably overpriced, cut up and modded beyond redemption, or any number of combinations of that. I'm kinda hoping Tamiya re-re's the body on a CC02 (two solid axles!), in which case I'll buy it and stash it somewhere out of sight to be made for our tenth anniversary. (We've only been married for 3.5 years, but I'm playing the long game here). Anyway, back on topic. If you need props, I've found that the '90s JP raptor toys are actually pretty much 1:10th scale when compared to actual Velociraptor remains. They're a little on the small side when you compare them to the movie raptors, but then those were actually too large. *Immediately fires up the Googles to look for 1:10th scale 1st gen Ford Explorer body sets*
  9. Alright, I should have listened to you. The plastic drive cups are fouling on the lower arms at anything more than arms level. So I DO need the smaller TB/TA-style drive cups, axle shafts and 39mm dogbones. However, since I would like to retain the extra width given by the longer axle shafts, this means I have to go find a set of Tamiya 50808, the wider axles on the rear of a TB01/TG10, and for the fronts either the universal versions of those or a second set of 50808. And of course a set of drive cups that fit the TT-style diffs, but seeing as how Yeah Racing makes a decent set of hardened steel ones for not too much money I'll go for those. That's the easy part. Aww shucks. That means I got a set of longer TT-style wheel axles for nothing.
  10. Yes, actually. During the enduro we found out that those are far more reliable than the universals, and with steering angles being not all that high at most outdoor tracks I think they'll be fine. Also, I now have a set of long axles all-around, so the car is actually ~190mm wide instead of the ~182ish on a stretch like most TTs. And until I can find a set of longer axles for universals I'll keep running this. Which reminds me, I may need to replace the plastic wheel hexes with alu ones too at some point.
  11. (Yeah, I said it. This is a TT01DRE. Kinda sounds like a dirt bike, doesn't it?) As some of you might know, the Club Racer is no more. She gave her everything in an 8 hour endurance race at a local outdoor track. She made it home, but not necessarily in one piece. She was hurtin', and needed help. The more I dug in the more it became evident that this was no longer repairable. It was after I took her apart fully I decided it would be best to take her good bits, and discard the rest. She'd be giving her life for her younger sister. You can read the whole story HERE. Enter, a large stack of parts. Soon to become the best TT01E I can build. Since I had to replace many plastics it would make the most sense to replace them with the hop-up parts from a TT01D, or even an R. I have a couple of spares, but nowhere near enough to do a full rebuild. Assume 90% is new, and various bits and pieces come from either the spare parts bin or the Club Racer 1.0. Things I've bought: Tamiya Bathtub Chassis For TT01 #51001 Tamiya Spur Gear Set (55T/58T) For TT01 #53665 Tamiya TT01D B Parts (Suspension Arms) #51217 Tamiya Adjustable Upper Arm Set For TT01 & TGS #53674 Tamiya G Part (Gear) For TT01 #51004 Yeah Racing RC PTFE Bearing (5x11x4mm) 10pcs #YB6014B/S10 Tamiya Metal Motor Mount For TT01/DF02 #53666 Yeah Racing Titanium Screw Set w/FREE Mini Box for Tamiya TT-01E TS-TT01E (Totally useless, but it'd be nice to be able to use the same toolset for the TT as I do for the TRF and the M.Rage.) Tamiya Drive Shaft Set (TT01) #51006 Tamiya TG10 long wheel shafts #50808 Tamiya Low Friction step screws #54409 Yeah Racing Diff Joint. (times 2, as it's a 4WD car) And from the spare parts bin and taken off of the donor car there's: Tamiya TT01 Aluminium Motor Heat Sink #53664 Tamiya Toe-in Rear upright (TT-01, TGS) #53673 Tamiya TT-01 Alu.Prop.Joint Shaft #54026 Tamiya TT02 Low Friction Suspension balls #54559 YEAH RACING Alum. Solid Axle For Tamiya TT02 TT02-069BU (in a TT02 diff housing. Long story...) Various bits and pieces here and there. First up, sorting screws. The Yeah Racing-set comes with a nifty little box for all the hardware. I likey! Followed by the butchering of the chassis. I run square packs, but in order to make them fit in a TT01, some creativity (and a Dremel) is required. I cut out all the little triangle-pieces, and shaved the nubs flat.. ... this allows for a battery to fit, but it's not really in tight... ... because you need foam tape for that. And lots of it. When applied correctly the battery will be so snug the holddown strap becomes superfluous. So snug! Anyway, onto the actual build. The first step is to assemble the rear drive shaft and spur gear. I took a bit of time to remove all of the flashing from every part, making sure that they all rotated smoothly. The next step is installing the propshaft and front drive shaft. Not very exciting, and I totally forgot to take pictures along the way. I skipped ahead a few steps and installed all of the bearings, just so I could check that the whole thing rotated smoothly. It was a bit rattly, so I added two miniscule pieces of foam in the cups to isolate the center shaft from vibrations. It sounded way better after that. Next up, motor! Here we have our first hop-up, the metal motor mount. It feels substantial! I hope it does something for the cooling of the motor, but at the minimum it won't deform under heat like the plastic one did. (This caused excessive wear on the spur gear). I've also reshaped the heat sink as it was a bit wobbly. Right now it's going to run a Carson Cup Machine, as that's the standard for most races around here. Maybe at some point I'll go with a mild brushless setup (like a 17.5t or the 'other' racing motor, a Carson Dragster 16t) 4 more screws attach the motor cover. Since all the screws (technically bolts) are M3 and not self-tapping I ran a tap through all the holes. It feels like I'm turning the bolts into a nut, and not tapped plastic. I likey! That's how she sits right now. The new plastics combined with the titanium hex head hardware make it feel like a far more expensive and fancy car than it really is. Stay tuned for more updates!
  12. Hi Simon, fellow Dutchie here! If your intention is to go racing in the Top Stock class of the Tamiya Cup, I'd definitely recommend going with the TT02RR. That things seems to just 'have it all' when it comes to a race-ready machine. If it weren't for the fact that I have an overwhelmingly large amount of 01-parts I'd totally be rocking one too. With that said, an 01E is certainly not a bad car. In terms of performance when spec'ed similarly there's not much between them. I've beat 02RRs with my Cup Racer (see above thread) and I've been handed my butt by people with 01s. The driver, along with proper tires, is 90% of your performance. If you buy an 01E you can go completely berserk with hop-ups, both Tamiya and the far-east are more than happy to oblige your every whim. Is that needed? Certainly not. In terms of Hop-ups you 'need' to have a decent car-park basher we're talking about (and in order of importance): Proper tires. If you're going bashing in car parks it kinda depends on the surface you'll be running on what to use. I've found HPI X-patterns to work well, but they seem to be getting rare. On track, just ask the fast guys what they use and buy that. This will absolutely save you a lot of money compared to experimenting yourself. If you're running indoor, don't forget traction compound fluid. Not 100% needed, but oh-so-nice to have. (And if you're going to run indoors, hit me up! I'm looking for a good indoor track ever since my local track (RC-Paradise) closed.) Ball bearings. Certainly. If you go with plastic bushings from the kit, thinking you can upgrade later, no. You'll be putting a lot of grease, crap, and wear and tear on every shaft. Ball bearings can be assembled dry, meaning your car is easier to clean. Steel pinion. Corally makes a good one. I've had the 'soft' alloy pinions on my cars for years, but then I mostly did indoor racing so stuff would last a little longer. Outdoors I'd 100% go with a steel pinion. We've done an 8-hour endurance with a TT01E, and while half the car was completely toast after the race, the pinion was fine and will be reused on the next car. Oil shocks. Note how these aren't on the top of the list. For general bashing the pogo sticks (included plastic friction dampers) work fine. They can be used for racing, but they wear out quickly with all the grime that collects on them. Use them to get a feel for the car, and once they're worn out (and really, that's about after 10 packs...) replace them with a decent set of CVA's. They don't have to be the all-out fancy-schmanzy TRF dampers, the plastic ones work just fine, especially if you're just starting out. Let's see, what am I forgetting.... Ah, yeah, decent electronics. I swear by Savöx servos, but I do realize they're not the cheapest around. (About €60 for a good one). Nothing is more frustrating than trying to get a car around a track with a half-busted or REALLY SLOW and glitchy steering servo. Don't cheap out, keep in mind you can always carry that thing to whatever car you're buying next. Also, decent radio and receiver. See above. ESC and motor shouldn't be an issue, you can run a Carson Cup Machine with the stock included ESC (which, admittedly, won't be included with the 02RR) or the old standby favorite in all of my brushed cars; the Hobbywing Quickrun 1060. They're splashproof, have LiPo LV cutoff, and cannot be killed with conventional weapons. I've never had one fail, and I've run them for many years in all of my brushed cars. (Which is all of them, with the exception of the TRF) Even the Clod has the dual-motor variant of the 1060. ^ My thread about the aftermath of running a TT01E for 8+ hours outdoor. Yeah, I'd say they're durable.
  13. Yeah, we just used one motor, and it wasn't even a brand-new motor. It was an ex-Tamiya Cup motor. Interesting, other people said they needed like, 3 motors just to do the race. We were fine, and I'm totally confident re-using this motor for something else.
  14. Preach on man! Most of my racing is done in spec TT-classes, be it the Dutch Tamiya Cup, or local events. In fact, I recently did an enduro with a TT01E, which saw this car running 275 km (170 miles) in 8 hours, and coming out third overall and first in class. And that was against M-chassis, 'actual' Touring cars and TT-Trucks. The Type S usually isn't elligable for spec TT, as the suspension gives the car such an advantage. However, I've seem them being put to good use against TA07s and even Xrays and the like. Once you engineer around the limited gearing options they're great (if a bit heavy) touring cars. TT01E, actually. And thank you!
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