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GooneyBird

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About GooneyBird

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  • Birthday 08/27/1987

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  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    Anything that goes vroom!

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  1. Remember the last time I'd done something like this? Well, today I needed to clean the hobby room out a bit, and never one to miss an opportunity to procrastinate I instead made sure all the RC cars were photo-ready, and took another family photo. As one does. A while ago I did the same thing, and quite a lot has changed since. Let's start out with the way it was about 2 years ago: From left to right there's my Froggy (DT03), the TRF(419), the Pajero (CC01), the Alpine (M02), Basher (M.Rage), the Street Scorcher (TT01ish), and finally the Cup Racer (TT01E) However, now we've got: Again from left to right there's: Basher (M.Rage), the Street Scorcher (TT01ish), the drifter (TA03F), the Pajero (CC01), the Clod(buster), the Alpine (M02), the Cup Racer (TT01E), in the center there's the Mini-Z, and last but (certainly!) not least the TRF(419). So what has changed? I've sold the DT03. Tough call, but I just wasn't using it quite enough to justify keeping around. Someone bought to go cup racing, and I hear he's having a blast. Good. Froggy deserves to be leaped around. There's a new body shell on Basher, as the old one was sort of falling apart. Same with the TRF and the TT01. And of course the Monster Truck in the room; I have a Clod now. The TRF and Basher have hardly moved since our indoor track closed last year. (Boohoo!) There's a nearby outdoor track, but the unpredictable weather and the fact that it's kinda run-down limit the amount of times I've been there. Regardless I've prepared the TT01E for a new adventure; endurance racing! There's an 8+ hour endurance coming up at the end of the summer, and @Fuijo has prepared a gorgeous replica of the Flying Lizard 911GT2. More on that thing later. The Street Scorcher and Clod have been steadily doing rounds in the local RC show car circuit. The Clod is a lot of fun, and the Street Scorcher never fails to amuse. For being really old (Clod) or based off of a touring car (Street Scorcher) both perform surprisingly well as long as you respect them and keep within their limits. But isn't that true for most things? The Alpine and the Mini-Z have slowly been gathering dust. Achoo. The TA03F as well, as no indoor track = no drifting action. Poor cars. The Pajero has been my walking buddy. Every time we go out hiking I bring the thing along, and it's been 100% bulletproof. I've probably ran 20+ batteries through it, and aside from cleaning nothing has broken or even shows signs of wearing. I've just finished wiring up a set of taillights using RCMojo's excellent light bucket set. A LOT of work (I hate hard bodies...), but the results look amazing. Anyway, on to the 911. Since part of the endurance race will be in the dark, I've added lights to it. Also, I've made a styrene box to act as a lightbox to light up the starting number. Not necessary, but it seemed cool. I just can't get over how awesome that thing looks. Too bad I can't run it out on track on these wheels. So there you have it. A quick update on all of my cars. How is your fleet doing?
  2. Well, that project was on the table for at least 6 months... Pro-tip for anyone doing this at home; do NOT do this after you've completely finished the body. There's nothing more nerve-wrecking than drilling a bunch of holes, then Dremel'ing them out, followed by a bunch of filing to get the lenses to fit on an already painted body shell. And a shot of the front, to prove it's actually completely lit up:
  3. Have a look at my Clod-thread. You can definitely get some improvement over the stock steering by swapping some things around and/or going to a bigger servo horn.
  4. Power oversteer can be a factor of many things. What are your spring rates? Generally a softer spring will take away traction from the other end. So if you go softer on the rear or harder on the front that could balance the car. Then there's the matter of droop. Droop is how far the arms fall when you lift the car. The best way to visualize droop is to think of the car as teeter-tottering back when you accelerate. The car pivots around the exact center as the front springs decompress and the rears compress. However, as soon as the front springs hit their max decompression weight will shift to the rear, loading the rear tires. (the pivot point moves back) Or you could simply be overpowering the rear tires. What kind of power are you running in the car?
  5. That sounds like it's a REALLY OLD version. The current version can be downloaded free-of-charge from http://www.vrcworld.com/. After that I'd highly recommend getting the USB adapter for your radio, and then go and have fun.
  6. I've tried it, and it's pretty good! I find the 'free' cars to be a bit lacking in setup options, and so replicating my track car is difficult, but if you use it purely to get track time in and train that all-important hand-eye coordination it's unbeatable. Especially with the USB adapter hooked up to a spare receiver (what I did).
  7. Most modern cars shouldn't be an issue, but keep in mind some cars have a laydown motor mount that relies on two side-by-side holes instead of the 6-and-12 setup that a silver can has. My TRF419 for instance, is setup like that. They do make adapters that bolt to the motor to circumvent that though. Just something to keep in mind.
  8. And after all that on-road action for the big Clod, it was time to do some proper 1980s style car crushing with it! I've mowed the lawn (sorta...), the yard is still in its proper state of disarray, but since I've got a few days off from work I still grabbed a moment to do some RC'ing! .... Also, the wife is out of the house for a few hours, and those moments are precious and few.
  9. The shocks are 101.4mm, so taking into account the fact that I really should be in bed by now and call it an even 100mm. Also, I wouldn't put any actual oil in them if you're going to mount 2 per corner. Else they probably won't do anything at all.
  10. Alrighty, minor info dump from someone whose been in your shoes. FWIW, I eventually bought a second-hand OG Clod and resto-modded that. Included electronics: The Super Clod comes with a TEU103BK, the Bullhead comes with an TEU106BK. The TEU106BK is the superior of the two, but both ESCs get blown away by the Hobbywing Quicrun 860. Oil shocks, I don't know if I would spend money on that. The Clod's suspension is 90% its tires, 10% everything else. There is so much unsprung weight in the gearboxes that I don't think that on a stock(ish) Clod the shocks really do much. The weight on the shocks consists of the body shell and the main chassis plate. That's about it. The rest is carried by the wheels. I'd heartily recommend at the minimum getting metal anti-rotation brackets. The plastic brackets are a bit iffy, and break easily. CPE makes metal parts for the servo savers, but the stock ones work well enough with stock power. If you need more speed you can quite easily run 3S batteries in a Clod (assuming your ESC can handle it. The Hobbywing can, not sure about the Tamiya ESCs). Keep in mind both trucks are models of 1980s Monster Trucks. That do 1980s Monster Truck things in a surprisingly scale manner. Rolling over old body shells or making short hops over scale-sized ramps. They (in stock form) DON'T do 2010s Monster Truck things. If you want triple backflips while on fire buy something like a Traxxas X-maxx. Or get a Clod, throw away everything but the gearboxes, spend about $750 and up building an insane Mod Clod, and thén do 2010s Monster Truck things with your "Clod Buster". I personally really like my Clod. It's not fast (silver cans on 2S), but quick enough considering its size and weight. It rolls over old body shells, does short jumps over improvised ramps, and the bounciness is actually pretty scale for those old-school leaf-sprung monster trucks. And it just looks toooo dammmmn coooool if you ask me.
  11. Not much, honestly. I've been out driving the thing a couple of times, but other than that it's been sitting on a shelf mostly. The rear bumper fell off on the last drive, the mounting points just sort of shattered. Old brittle plastic will do that I suppose. I've ordered a new set online, and I hope it gets here soon so it'll look vaguely normal again. Honestly, who takes a Clod to an onroad track? I do!
  12. If scale looks aren't important, and you want halfway-decent performance on a track, try looking at something like an E-Revo. Their lower CoG really help handling (and the walk of shame when you inevitably flip it onto its lid).
  13. It looks really good! I've always had a soft spot for those old-school semi trucks. The only thing I would have done differently are the front lights. They're a blue-ish white now, but those old trucks have halogen bulbs so I would have probably liked a bit warmer white for them.
  14. So, my indoor track folded (Boo!) and I had to go and find another club to race at. There's an outdoor track about 20 km from my house, but I never gave it much thought as I simply don't really like running outdoors. However, with the weather improving and..well.. you get the key to the gate so you can run whenever you please, I figured I'd sign up there and give their club comp a try. Note the red RX7 in the background. I was the only 01E there, the rest being either 02R or 02RRs, so I figured I didn't really stand a chance. What I didn't take into account is how well set-up my car is, and years of indoor racing have made me a rather precise driver. I'm not fast, I just don't crash. Slow and steady wins the race.... ...literally. I showed up, and during Q1 I just sorta followed other people around, trying to work out the racing line. Once I got a bit of track knowledge going I upped the speed and started getting into it. This lead to me being second in Q2 and first in Q3. Having set the overall fastest 3 consecutive laps (again, I am really consistent) I got TQ for the first final. The first final was shaping up to be a close battle between me and another member from my old indoor track, but a backmarker took him out in the latter part of the race and..well, I had another backmarker on my 6 so I couldn't hang back and wait for him. The second (of 2) finals went a lot smoother, and after helping another member set-up his (brand spanking new) TT02RR I got a bit of a fair fight going with all 3 of us changing 1-2-3 out for the most part of the race. Eventually I ended up in first after a tangle with a backmarker that involved all 3 of us, and took the win. The tape on the nose is the result of 6 months of racing, a few indoor scrapes and bruises, and one head-on collision with a Traxxas. Don't ask. Things got weird during an open track day. Other than that the RX7 held up nicely. I completely expected the headlights to fall off all the time, but they've been surprisingly durable. The light set, however, did take a bit of a beating with one of the front wheels rubbing through a wire, and another wire getting snagged and broken when I removed the body shell. As a precaution I've removed it. The first time in years (?) that I've had the TT running without low beams. My car with aformentioned brand-new TT02RR. Oh Gods that is such a nice machine. If I ever manage to wear out my 01E I am SO getting one of those. So don't hold your breath, as TTs seem to be at least as durable as old Nokias.
  15. Pulley size does not affect top speed, as long as they're both the same size it shouldn't matter. The pulleys start playing a part when they're of different sizes. You're either under- or overdriving one side of the car, making it either a FWD or RWD-biased car. This is relevant for drifting or when you have the one-way pulley set, on track.
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