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About GooneyBird

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  • Birthday 08/27/1987

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  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    Anything that goes vroom!

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  1. @ThunderDragonCy, you're correct in thinking that they won't fit with the stock outdrives. What I did is switch to the 'smaller' style outdrives, in combination with TG10 axles in the rear, and 'normal' universals in the front. If the arms are worth it, that's entirely up to you. They give a couple more options for mounting the lower shock (yay!) and provide the means to install an anti-roll bar (does exactly diddly-squat on a TT IMHO). The real gain lies in the adjustable upper arms, and I'd focus on those over the lower arms. I don't know if aftermarket alu-outdrives will fit. The plastic ones foul quite badly, so they'd have to be a LOT smaller.
  2. I do believe I've pretty much hit peak Clod with this thing. Ever since I installed the JConcepts steering lockout set it's been a completely different truck. It's responsive, doesn't flop all over the place when landing a jump or wheelie, and is just generally a far nicer rig to run. Plus, the crab-walk steering is SO MUCH FUN to play with. Having it on a switch means you can throw it around on the fly. Recent observations: Made a lead to put direct battery voltage on the lights. They ran through the BEC previously, but I noticed with the dual servos the BEC was struggling to keep the lights lit. Will running 6V LEDs on 8.4V explode them? Probably. But I have plently, and I'll get a bigger resistor behind them when they do. For now though, nice and bright. The mirrors look AWESOME. It wheelies on a fresh battery! (Once you get about 10 minutes in it'll only barely pick up the front axle. But on a fresh lipo it'll run the rear bumper into the lawn!) .... but the body is cracking from old age... ...and the wheels are getting more and more yellow. I should probably paint the wheels at some point. The tires glued to them are still good, but the wheels are getting bad. There's a hairline crack developing in one of them. And the body is starting to split right down the middle where the bed meets the body. I've glued it shut again, but at some point this does need attention. Maybe tilt bed, staying in theme with the 1980s Monster Truck-vibe?
  3. It's only been like a month. That's not a bad price, honestly. Is it a Revo 1 or 2(.0)? If an all-out stunt truck is something you desire, I'm sure you can do a whole lot worse than a Revo. Parts supply from Traxxas seems to be spot-on (and you're American so it's probably even better for you!) and they are more than capable enough. They're pure, unashamed bashers. Made to wheelie, jump over improbably large items, and come back asking for more. What they aren't, are racers, anything remotely resembling a scale model of a real thing, or nice tinker objects. You buy them, pull them out of the box, smash some batteries in them, and go. Whereas a solid axle monster truck is way more 'tinkerable'. So what I'm saying is; it's up to you. If I had access to a place to run a Revo (like a skate park, or dirt playground or something), I'd do it. If all you have is your lawn and the beautifully manicured rose garden next to it, maybe not.
  4. Nice to hear you’re dialing in the car! Those TTS are lovely to drive once you’ve got them working right. I miss the track. Everything here is still closed. Seeing your pics makes me hope they’ll allow us in soon. (Also, should I ever make it to the UK I need to grab a race or two of that series. Sounds like fun!)
  5. Well, white doesn’t become anything, it just happens to work as a ground in this situation. Maybe that’s just how your receiver works, maybe it’s common. Never tried it actually. :p The slightly longer version of how a radio works is that it gives pulses of a certain duration, and that tells the servo to move to a certain position. the fact that an LED will light up on the white wire is because inbetween the pulses the white wire is at 0V (neutral), working as a ground to the +5V the receiver sees. The pulses themselves are +5V, and the only reason you’re not shorting stuff out is because the LED itself works as a diode, only letting current pass in one direction but blocking it in the other. I’m not sure what would happen if you plug in an incandescent light bulb the wrong way around, but I can imagine you’d short out your receiver and severely upset your BEC in the ESC. Don’t try that at home I’d say.
  6. A normal servo plug has 3 wires, white for signal, red for 5V, and black for negative. Signal is a pulse, so nothing 'useful', leaving 5V + and -. When you plug in your LEDs, they get 5V through the red and black wire, and thus, will turn on. When you plug them in backwards, they still get 5V through the center red wire, and ground to the signal part of the receiver, which works because that uses 5V as a reference and thus, can act as ground for 'simple' stuff. (That's about the really really short version of it). If you want to turn lights on and off remotely you'll need a separate switch. Our friends in the far east sell one (I have one on the Pajero, which is currently for sale, hint hint wink wink), and I'm sure that you can buy many of those unbranded switches on eBay.
  7. My workhorse of a TT, after surviving 8 hours of gruelling enduro racing.
  8. It's in the diffs. Tight diffs will keep the power going once a wheel lifts. A loose diff will spin away excess power to the airborne wheel, slowing the car down and planting it back on all fours.
  9. Nice! Aren't TTs great fun when raced? Everyone's always so dismissive of them, but they're stupid-reliable, and with proper setup can be great track-day cars. I love mine, and as soon as this stupid lockdown lifts, will absolutely shred some more tires with it.
  10. @Effigy3: the YR set feels solid enough, and from the stock setup pretty much anything is an improvement. The GPM set was fine, right up until the point where it snapped because I kinda overstressed it. I'm willing to bet the stock setup would have failed under the same conditions. Speaking of selling stuff, it's now FOR SALE. Should anyone like this to the point of wanting to own it, now's your chance!
  11. For sale, my CC01 Pajero And she’s off to a new owner! II've owned this thing for 5 years now, and have used it quite a lot on walks all over the local forests. But, it's time to move on, and free up space and money for other things. (RC things, don't worry!) It's in good shape, and the box is sharp with the original shrink wrap protecting the art work. It comes ARTR, all you need to do is add your own 3ch receiver + NiMH pack with Tamiya plug. I'm including the ESC, servo, and LED controller in the sale. Price? I'm thinking €250/ 220 UK Pounds / $300. Or best offer, obviously. I'm open to offers, so shoot me a message. Shipping to most European countries (+UK) is around €30. Contact me for exact shipping rates. The build thread can be found HERE, but it's a little out of date. 49490 Mitsubishi Pajero Metaltop wide Full ball bearings, obviously Steel pinion. Junfac 4-link rear suspension (makes ALL the difference to the handling!) Junfac steel skid plate Yeah Racing steering set (brand new!) Amazon-special 25KG Waterproof steering servo. Works well! Yeah Racing universals, and I removed the steering stops so you get a nice tight turning radius. 55t RC4WD Crawler motor. Epic run times and more than enough torque! Tamiya TT02 receiver box in the rear Hobbywing QR1060WP ESC with custom power lead to the.... ...Tamiya TLU01 LED controller with full lights, yes that includes... ... Loops Model complete light bucket set front and rear. See pictures. Off-brand crawler tires on Tamiya Land Cruiser wheels painted black. Original wheels and tires are included. Custom license plate light. Again, see pictures. Custom 3rd channel switch to turn the lights off and on remotely from a free channel on your radio Custom brass tow hitch receiver. Meant to build a trailer for it, but it never happened so it's never seen any load behind it. Custom license plates. Are glued on with school glue, so should pull right off without damage. Orginal license plates are still on the decal sheet, obviously. Original box with inserts, all the leftover plastic bits, unused decal sheet, and all the header cards of the included hopups A bit of sound deadening on the roof. Is stuck in with dual sided sticky tape, and will easily pull out. (I walk in quiet areas and wanted to muffle the sound a bit) So what are the flaws? Well, the chassis has some usage marks here and there, and the body has a few nicks and scratches from usage. No splits, no cracks, just paint missing here and there. The worst one is on the door. See pictures below.
  12. *Blows the dust off of this thread* *cough cough* Not Corona, don't worry. I still have the Clod. And I still use it somewhat frequently. But lately I've been noticing a distinct lack of something on the truck. Yeah. Mirrors. With all the Chrome doo-dads Tamiya bestowed on it, they somehow forgot mirrors. Now, the Tamiya Hilux actually has decently accurate mirrors for a K10-truck... .. but they require three separate parts trees AND a metal parts bag. Ugh. Now, I don't mind going to the period-correct aftermarket for mirrors. It is, after all, a monster truck from the '80s, and Lords know they ran those things through the Sears catalog and had all the aftermarket parts stick to it on its way out. I mean, bug shields, roll bars, blackout headlights... so why not aftermarket mirrors? But where do you get mirrors....? Oh wait, I have a Blazer that just donated its (too-tiny for its scale) mirrors to the good cause! Fortunately, the Blazer's mirrors came with a template (actually, the OTHER mirrors did, but this can be used for the stock mirrors too), so marking the correct location was easier than I thought. Just use the top holes for the mirrors on the Clod, and done! Bam. I snugged them down a bit further after this photo was taken. I've had to modify the window slightly, making a hole for the mounts. However, the extra width meant I couldn't get a body clip through. I've secured them with hot glue. Time will tell if they'll hold or not. I've used hot glue to stick the wires from the front lights down, and that hasn't come off yet, so I have good hopes for the mirrors staying on. if not we'll see about a different solution.
  13. Well, as we all know, Traxxas kinda plays it fast and loose with their scaling. The Blazer's supposed to be 1/10th scale, but it...well... kinda isn't. It's more 1/9th or even 1/8th. Not a problem, as all crawlers in that class are roughly the same size, and so it still kinda works. However, the longer I looked at the body, the more I noticed that the mirrors are really kinda ridiculously small. I guess they tried to go for the Sport Mirror-look on the K5 Blazer, but then kinda didn't really pull it off as the shape is just off. (and I'm pretty sure the Sport mirrors weren't available on the '79, but my research is a bit spotty when it comes to '70s GM stuff.) Most Blazers (and K10/20s) had the larger, swingout mirrors with the Chrome base. As seen on this pretty-much-dead-on-replica of my TRX4. Fortunately, Traxxas, in a rare move, actually makes the correct mirrors, AND they fold in and out. Which on a wide truck, can be quite handy. (Also, topheavy rollovers and such) They even come with this handy stencil, indicating where you are to poke the holes. Traxxas doesn't pre-dimple like Tamiya, but this works. Plus, for another project it actually worked out pretty well to have the stencils. Place the stencil over the existing holes, take a deep breath (ignore the broken chrome trim sticker...) and.... ...briefly switch to the other side of the truck. No going back now! It looks pretty good! Much better than these too-tiny mirrors. The way they work is actually pretty clever. There's no spring or anything, the mirror is free to rotate from the base. However, there's a lug on it, and when the mirror is upright, is flush with the base... ... but when the mirror rotates, the lug pushes out against the body, and that being lexan, will push back and plop the mirror back into place. Pretty clever if you ask me! These mirrors mount with three screws (included!) and a base. Different system than the bodyclip'd other mirrors, but seeing as how these fold I don't think I ever need to take them off. Mah tool is too big. Write your own jokes. Not bad, right? Looks a little more in scale with the rest of the truck now, and won't snap off on the first rollover. But what are we going to do with the old mirrors? I mean, they're too small for the Blazer, but otherwise a decent replica of Generic Sears-branded 1970s/1980s Sport Mirrors I suppose. But what other, actually 1/10th scale GM/Chevy truck do I own....?
  14. In my experience NONE of the above-mentioned ESCs have reverse-polarity protection. I've personally exploded a TEU105BK by plugging in a LiPo backwards. (Yeah, I know...) I wouldn't know of any that have, even top-spec racing ESCs like my Muchmore Fleta doesn't have any protection.
  15. Just the tub? I'm considering selling my whole CC01 to make room in the RC parking lot for new stuff.
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