Jump to content

GooneyBird

Members
  • Content Count

    603
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

745 Excellent

About GooneyBird

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/27/1987

Profile Information

  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    Anything that goes vroom!

Recent Profile Visitors

1834 profile views
  1. Zoom would work. It has a bit of a spotty start, but it seems to get the job done. Alternative is Skype. I'm 100% game for this. I've got a few things lined up I'd love to take a crack at.
  2. ... I swear, this whole self-quarantine is doing a number on my brain. This is something I'd been wanting to do for a while; get all of my cars running and driving at the same time. Since thinking of that plan I sold two cars to make room for a yet-to-be-acquired new car (one out, one in, right gents?) so it was a little easier to manage. Still, it took a little work. I drove all of them around for another parade lap, just to make a point that they're all still functional models. 7 cars, 1 radio, 1 cat. - The Alpine needed a bit of love to get going again. That thing hadn't done anything in at least 7 years, so the steering servo needed a bit of persuasion to get going. - The TRF kept ruining the shot by getting hung up on absolutely EVERYTHING. - I had to reprogram the failsafe on the Street Scorcher because it would very slowly take off in reverse whenever I didn't have it selected in the radio. - ... and then there's the neighbor's cat.
  3. The Clod's battery compartiment is spacious, but I wouldn't know of any 3S batteries that fit without modifying the tray. Pretty much any 2S battery will fit though, square or round pack.
  4. https://www.prolineracing.com/traxxas-slash/ Proline makes a couple of not-Stadium truck bodies for the Slash. Yes, the Slash is not available as a kit, but nothing is stopping you from taking from the box, tearing it apart and putting it back together your way.
  5. Keep in mind that the ball diffs on an F103 can only take so much power (torque, not RPMs) before slipping. Tightening them up further will temporarily fix the issue but will only result in a lot of going backwards in corners and broken diff cups. Really with an F1-style car, a 21.5t on 2s is MORE than enough. Especially outdoors, where grip might be sub-optimale. I've run an F1 car on foam tires on carpet indoors on a 17.5t, and that's about as fast as I'm able to drive something.
  6. I have a bunch of TT01 parts, along with doubles of TT02 parts you already have. I have a set of wheels and tires for you if you want, along with 4 nylon lock nuts. I'm sure I can scrounge up a bunch of body clips and other generic parts...
  7. I weighed in all my cars sans body shell, as those change from run to run. So what we're looking at here are the bare minimum weights for each chassis. Chassis + wheels + electronics. Nothing more. Tamiya TT01EDR Cup Racer, 1076 gr Hop ups: Too many to name, but none of them should really affect weight. (Things like adjustable upper arms for caster, ball bearings, toe-in blocks in the rear). I threw in a seat of rear body posts in the battery box, as I've been experimenting with bodies and they're off. Only noteworthy hop-up is a titanium screw set. TRF419, 997 gr Mostly stock, with the exception of a Beserk RC battery holder and an embiggened front bumper to suit my current body shell. Not a Tamiya, but certainly one in spirit, my BSR Racing M.rage 4WD M-chassis, 907 gr. Hop-ups: Relevant? M-chassis body post set, custom front bumper, rear track wideners. M02 Short wheelbase, 854 gr. I'm surprised at how light this thing is. Hop-ups: Ball bearings and modern electronics. That's it. CC01, 1525 gr. Hop-ups: Junfac 4-link set. GPM steering set, TT02 radio box, ball bearings, HobbyKing RC switch for the light set, and a bunch of mud on the tires. Clod Buster, ~3600gr Yeah, I had to break out the person-scale for this. And that thing is difficult to photograph with the backlit LCD that turns off after a few seconds. But after about 8 attempts I managed to get it to settle at 3.6kg. Yeah. She's a hefty one.
  8. If that's the final list then.... meh... I like the CLK GTR. I think it's a beautiful car, and Tamiya have done a good and faithful rendering of it. Should be pretty slippery for racers, too! Good! Haters are going to hate the TT01E, but plonk that body set on a TRF and you'll have something that looks ánd handles great. Terra Scorcher, meh. Another re-re of a fragile 1990s buggy with limited functionality out of the box. A color variant of a TT02B buggy. Could be interesting for people not wanting to deal with painting body shells. They usually alter the decals for the color variants, so fingers crossed for a pretty livery. The MudMad. Sound.... interesting. No idea what to expect. Could be great, could be awful. Comical Avante. The whole Comical-range never did anything for me. Well, I'm sure it'll do great in Japan... The Swift Sport, now there's something! On an M05 I'm not too enthusiastic about it, but as a body set on an M07 it should prove a good alternative. From the wheelbase (L) I think it's the new 2019 Swift Sport, and not a re-re of the older body styles (those were M-wheelbase). Yay on that one. Usually Tamiya pulls out something unexpected at the show's start. I'm hoping for pictures of that Volvo dump truck thing, and of course I want to see what in tarnations a MudMad is supposed to be.
  9. Too old for serious racing, too young for that sweet, sweet nostalgia that's been going 'round here. I'd love to see a re-re of the old shape Mini Coopers. But seeing as how they lost the BMW licensing I can't see that happening any time soon.
  10. Not really. The issue is that most of the weight is in the gearboxes, which is unsprung (not counting the tires, which honestly are like 75% of the suspension of a Clod). So there's a lot of weight unsprung moving up and down, and the rest of the chassis (body shell and plastic bathtub, basically) is just sorta perched on top. But then, y'know, it's a Clod. That's just how it is. At low speed they're fine. When you go beyond stock, things get weird with them.
  11. Alright, here's the weirdest set of pics of my Clod I've ever taken. From top to bottom: A Clod, a standard Tamiya screwdriver (L), the TT01DRE, and a 7.2 NiMH stick pack. I figured those are probably the easiest things to convey scale. As you can see, the ground clearance under the gearboxes is about 1/2 that of the overall height of the TT. The tires, meanwhile, are taller than a stickpack, but slightly shorter than the screwdriver. Banana for scale. xD (To be fair, the banana is on the large-ish side of things) Great, now I'm hungry for a banana. The overall width of the Clod is a little less than the length of the TT. The trackwidth is about the same as the wheelbase of a touring car. You can just about squeeze a stick pack between the tires. A banana, meanwhile, can rest comfortably on top. Anything else you'd like to see posed on / near the Clod? I can probably mock up something with A4-paper, if you're European. I have some 12" records laying around, don't know if you have one of those to compare...?
  12. Alright, here's the weirdest set of pics of my Clod I've ever taken. From top to bottom: A Clod, a standard Tamiya screwdriver (L), the TT01DRE, and a 7.2 NiMH stick pack. I figured those are probably the easiest things to convey scale. As you can see, the ground clearance under the gearboxes is about 1/2 that of the overall height of the TT. The tires, meanwhile, are taller than a stickpack, but slightly shorter than the screwdriver. <a href="https://ibb.co/XD0tBxf"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/qCqpGYL/IMG-5772.jpg" alt="IMG-5772" border="0" /></a> Banana for scale. xD (To be fair, the banana is on the large-ish side of things) Great, now I'm hungry for a banana. <a href="https://ibb.co/cbZKSbZ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/z8BWT8B/IMG-5774.jpg" alt="IMG-5774" border="0" /></a> The overall width of the Clod is a little less than the length of the TT. The trackwidth is about the same as the wheelbase of a touring car. <a href="https://ibb.co/FgR1jnt"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cD497xd/IMG-5776.jpg" alt="IMG-5776" border="0" /></a> You can just about squeeze a stick pack between the tires. A banana, meanwhile, can rest comfortably on top. Anything else you'd like to see posed on / near the Clod? I can probably mock up something with A4-paper, if you're European. I have some 12" records laying around, don't know if you have one of those to compare...?
  13. There are a lot of amazing scale builds here, and on the internet. In static photos, sometimes these cannot be distinguished from the real thing with their amazing realism and attention to detail. But as soon as they start moving the illusion is broken. They're clearly too light for what they are, bouncing up and down far too eagerly with every tiny bump. In slow-motion video (Heyoo Mateo!) this isn't too bad, but once you start seeing them in real-life, the lack of body movement compared to the suspension travel is jarring and pulls you out of the illusion of looking at a real car. Even scale semi-trucks, which are fairly heavy for their size, have the issue of suspension that's too hard, and a little underdampened. Enter technology! With an Arduino, micro-servos and a LOT of 3D-printing, you can have a car that moves like the real thing. Especially if the 1:1 car weighs something like 2500kg. Also, I spy TT01 steering knuckles and DT02/03 front wheels with custom hubcaps. Tamiya pride!
  14. It's big, but actually smaller that you'd think. I can put one next to a touring car tomorrow if that helps.
×
×
  • Create New...