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GooneyBird

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About GooneyBird

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  • Birthday 08/27/1987

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  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    Anything that goes vroom!

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  1. Those CMX and CMF chassis seem cool too, and I could mount the Pajero body to it as it's the same size as a CC01. (Just a boatload more capable) Interesting... I'e seen a couple of people go for 64dp gears, which I know from experience really cut down on the noise. (My TRF is eerily quiet as it thunders by) But then you'd need an enclosed drivetrain. The CC's drivetrain is supposed to be fairly closed-in, but I've found that small grains of sand can (and will) work their way in. Any experience with that on other cars?
  2. TBLE02S has been sold, the rest is sill available.
  3. Well, the ear plugs would work, but then I wouldn't hear anything anymore. xD Plus, I can tell my wife's a bit miffed at the sound of the CC01 too, and ear plugs for the both of us...well... no. I've played with foam insulation inside the body, but found it made little difference. The chassis plate itself seems to resonate the most with the drive train. The insulation did help with the motor sounds a bit, and I'll be repeating that on any other car I might (well...will) purchase for trail running. Nice, thx. Like I said, I've been hearing reports both ways. Some say the Gen8 is the quieter of the two, others say the TRX4. Did you get yours RTR or is it a kit?
  4. So I own a CC01. Love the thing, and I take it just about anywhere with me on walks. We have the fortune of living near a large forested national park, with many trails open to mountain bikers and hikers. My wife and me often go on 2+ hour walks through the woods and I, being me, bring the CC01 along for the ride. I have a 55t motor in there, and in those 2 hours I usually go through 1 complete 3300 mAh NiMH battery pack, and part of the second one I brought in my backpack (Read: we usually run out of juice before the RC car does ) However, there's two things that annoy me with the CC01. First, while it does fine on the walking trails it tends to get high-centered and/or stuck on the mountain bike paths quickly. It's a little low-slung for some areas, and lacks approach and departure angle for other situations. Also, it's a little on the loud side. When we're out hiking we're used to hearing nothing but our own footsteps and the birds around us, and the Pajero is definitely louder than that. I've changed out a gear set, which helps, but I can't seem to get the mesh of the pinion right. I've looked at a few Youtube clips of CC01s, and they all have that distinctive 'wiiiiwiiiiiwiiiiwiiiiwiiiii...'-sound to them. Almost as if the spur gear isn't completely round and pulls itself in and out of alignment. So I've been looking over the fence at other scalers/trailers/crawlers, and pretty much everything seems to be more capable than a mostly-stock CC01 it seems, so in that regard I can't really do wrong. But what I cannot find out is how loud some cars are. I've seen some clips of custom-built cars with belt drives instead of spur and pinion gears, along with different electronics to be as quiet as possible, but those are $1000+ projects and are more testbeds than functional vehicles. There are some people who rebuild their cars and shim the heck out of the transmissions, which seems to help with the sound a bit. I've been looking at the TRX4 (Specifically the Blazer because *drooling sounds*), but the Redcat Gen8 has caught my attention too. Looking at videos they seem like they're about as loud as the CC01, but I realize that a lot of it is down to how it's being shot. IE: in some videos they sound like drills and in others you can barely hear them. What are your experiences with really quiet RC cars? How loud are your crawlers/scalers? Also, the first one to suggest a nitro car will get a stern talking-to at the end of this session.
  5. Hi all, having a small clearout of my electronics bin. In it we have 3 ESCs, and the MSC I pulled from my Clod. Tamiya TEU104BK NIP - Untested, but obviously new in sealed plastic so I'm assuming it'll work (pic 1) €10 Tamiya TBLE02S - Tested, works on brushed motors and came out of a brushless car so works on brushless motors too. Deans plug. I think I've got the manual somewhere. If I find it I'll include it, otherwise it can be found all over the internet. (pic 2) €10 LRP Runner - Tested, works. Used with scratches here and there, but case is still fully intact. Could do with a good cleaning. (pic 3) €10 Tamiya MSC + Power/Economy-switch out of a ClodBuster - Untested (I'm not touching this thing!) and pulled from my Clod. Seems to be complete? (pic 4) €???? Make me an offer, trade me something cool, I dunno. Shipping is €9 to most countries from The Netherlands. If you're in NL (hallo mede-Nederlander!) then I'm sure I can work something out with padded envelopes and such. Also, my desk is WAY cleaner in real life. Somehow it just didn't translate well on the photos.
  6. I've found that on most cars, using a lighter battery than what the car was designed for will do screwy things with the weight balance and mess up handling. Case in point: an M04 I helped set up at the track. That thing had the battery ALLLLL the way to the back, to provide weight for the rear wheels. With a NiMH in there (what it was designed to do) it ran okay-ish, but was nearly undrivable with a Lipo in there. I added in a bunch of lead weight in a hollow section of the rear, and it would improve dramatically.
  7. Hi, I have two M03 C-parts spruces that are (nearly?) complete. Interested? I tried PMing you but for some reason you seem to be unable to receive them. Inbox full perhaps?
  8. No problem, but due to the whole Brexit kerfuffle that does mean shipping is €6. Despite it being an envelope I still need to send it as if it were a package. Is that okay with you?
  9. I recently converted my Clod to the Regulator BTA servo setup, and the kit came with a rear steering lockout kit. Specifically, THIS kit. Since I'm running dual steering, I now have two rear lockout kits and zero axles to put them on. They're unopened, unused (obviously) and come with all the hardware that came with it neatly labeled and in a bag. I'll do €10 a piece, or both for €17,50. This is excluding shipping, but they fit in a sturdy envelope so I'm sure that won't be too crazy. I accept Paypal.
  10. For sale, the two carbon shock towers for a TT01E. I ran these in a single race, and was then politely told they were all kinds of against the rules. Whoopsie! Ergo, my racer has been converted back, and these two beauties are for sale. They come complete with all the hardware I used to mount them on my car, as well as the plastic sprues with body posts and such. As far as I can recall none of the plastic parts have been cut off, but they've been in my pit bag for over a year so.. Ideally, I'd like €25 per tower, and I'll do €40 for the pair. This is excluding shipping which is obviously dependent on your location. They should fit a good sturdy envelope, so I don't think it'll be too expensive. I'll accept Paypal, obviously.
  11. As promised, a couple of vids. Note how the servos are able to throw the wheels from lock to lock at a standstill. Improvements! This is how the dual steering setup works. I've mixed the aux-channel/ch3 (rear servo) with ch1 (front servo). As soon as ch1 moves, ch3 moves. I've then programmed the switch to control dual rates for ch3. With the switch up, the servo goes from 0% to 100% (a bit less, actually, to account for the servo throw). With the switch down the servo goes from -100% to 0%, effectively reversing it. This means... ... it can crabwalk! I've seen a couple of real old-school monster trucks do it, and to have this ability in the Clod is just too cool. It takes a bit of getting used to while driving. I can throw the switch with my thumb, meaning I can go from normal to reverse steering while also giving steering inputs at the same time. Occasionally, you misjudge and you end up in the grass. I love this thing so much. Some people complain that it's too slow, but it's perfect for what it is. Especially now that I've improved the steering its so much fun to drive. In the spring I'll get some ramps up in the back yard, see how it flies (and lands) now. And yes, I'll get rid of those branches.....eventually. There's no need to ask me every 6 months.
  12. Look, my Clod is completely different now! You can't really tell, can you? And that's exactly my intention! There's less stuff here now! With the removal of the drag link and the steering link the front end has cleaned up a bit. Anyway, back to what I was doing... After building another axle exactly like the post above, I reattached them to the chassis, and set about giving the electronics a spot in the truck. With the servo gone from the main tub, and no mechanical bits down in the hole anymore, I had quite a big hole to fill. \ Not that I'm short on things to stuff in there! On the bottom is a TT02 receiver box holding my receiver (and a bunch of excess wiring). On top of that I've stuck the Hobbywing QR860 ESC. From the receiver box come four pairs of wires. One going to the ESC above it, two going to the servo, and the bind/aux-port has an extension wire on it should I ever need to re-pair (not repair) it. That fourth lead then goes into another extension wire and up toward the body to power the headlights. That thing on the left side you ask? That's my Lipo alarm. The ESC has one built-in, but with the distances the Clod is away from me at times (beach runner!) I'd rather have it beep its head off so I know something is up. The drop in speed as it goes into low-voltage cutoff is sometimes hardly noticable. (The Clod is...not fast). That Lipo buzzer is situated right where the old Power/Economy switch is, and the cutout in the tub is a neat window into the voltage display. Pretty neat, eh? It's attached using two halves of a tie-wrap, creating a double-headed tie-wrap that's pulled through the holes with a washer behind it. I couldn't find anything else to hold it, and the red plastic tie-wraps kinda tie in (no pun intended) with the iconic Clod-red. And yes, you can still totally see it with the body on. I used to have the receiver box right underneath the antenna mount under the bed of the truck, but with the relocation I didn't want to run the antenna all the way through the car. Solution, stick it on the little antenna holder of the receiver box! Somehow magically that ends up in the cab of the truck, and that's just the right height for it too. I love it when things work out like that. Ye Gods, it's big. Normally my green mat comfortably holds just about any car, with room to the sides for my tools. I really have to maneuver around the Clod when working on it. I've given up using the computer behind it at the same time to play music... And yes, the lights still work, and are still not actually this sickly shade of yellow in real life. Because the chassis is mostly symmetrical when its on your desk, I obviously: - Set the reversers wrong for both servos - Had both motors turn in reverse - Then reversed the wrong one so now I had one running correctly, and the other one opposite. - And to top it off I wrested with the body trying to put it on backwards. What have we learned? Don't do this after a long day at work.... It's weird how little play there is in the system now. There's a bit of a wobble to the tires, but that's it. It can steer at a standstill, and both axles pop to full lock with ease. It turns on a dime. Tomorrow I'll try to get some shots of it driving. I can crabwalk now! Stay tuned for that. This just about wraps up the build I guess. It was a fun couple of nights. I haven't heard from Jconcepts yet regarding the clearance issue between the servo and the motor, but when (if...) I do I'll update this topic.
  13. ... yeah, me neither. I've been running the Clod a fair amount recently, what with the whole 'rona going on outside, and while it's been a solid runner there's one thing that I just can't get over; the steering. It's vague, and the front axle is always the one steering the least. (And when driving in reverse, the roles are reversed.) I've made some improvements, though minor, but the bump steer, the slop in everything and the general vagueness remained. I've looked into axle-mounted servo solutions, but all of them required hacking the front bumper off, which is not something I'm prepared to do. That red underride-guard is just such an iconic look for the truck! I mean, that's just such a good look! However, recently, Jconcepts came up with a Behind-the-axle servo mount set, and from the looks of it, it seemed like I could retain the bumper and basically hide the servo completely. As a bonus, this also deletes the stock servo savers on top of the axle, so in theory I'd gain a little more suspension travel if I cut down on the bump stops. Step 1; tear down and 'chunkify' the Clod. I love how modular those things are. This is about to get seriously cleaned up! Wrapping the servo in CF-wrap proved to be a mistake later on. The intentions were good, trying to hide the things a bit more... Looks great though! Right, let's get cracking on the first axle! No wonder the steering felt gritty.... In with the new! The set comes with a rear lockout bar, but since I want to run dual steering I bought two sets and won't be needing the rear lockout. I'l put it up for sale at some point, someone else might get some use out of it. Since the Jconcepts kit came with no instructions, here's a brief recap should anyone else want to do this. 1. Build the servo holder. 2. Attach servo 3. Attach custom fancy-schmanzy servo arm to servo, making sure to center it. 4. And this is the genius part: Attach the servo holder to the upper arm (!) using the provided backplate as a stopper. 5. Marvel at how neatly tucked-in the servo sits there, almost as if it was meant to be there. 5.5. Scratch head as to why the servo is hitting the motor.... Remember the wrap I put on? Yeah, take that off again. It helps a bit, but there is still contact. I've contacted JConcepts about this, asking what size motor and servo they built this set for. I have a suspicion that either something changed in the long run of Clod axles (because I've seen reviews online of this set and they did not have this problem), or that a silver can is somehow thicker than most other motors... I decided to soldier on with the build as I wait on a response from Jconcepts. It's early January, so I suspect their offices are closed for the holidays. I can always easily remove and remedy whatever's needed. Step 6, insert screws through upside-down steering knuckles, adding the weird bearing hat-things while humming the Mexican hat-song. Step 7: Build a turnbuckle. [Imagine a picture of me swearing and hurting my fingers here...] Step 8: add a ball connector to both the C/F steering link and the servo arm, pop the bearings in the C/F link, and assemble. Step 9: Pop all the ball connectors in their sockets, hurting yourself in the process Step 10: Bumpers. Note how the bumper is on in the above picture. You need to remove a TINY amount from one lug to make it fit over the screws of the servo holder, and that's it. The whole assembly is scarily play-free, and aside from the issue with the servo hitting the motor, feels well-designed and engineered. As soon as I get an update from Jconcepts I'll update this post with what I did wrong. (or rather, if my servo's too fat or something).
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