• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

564 Excellent

About GooneyBird

  • Rank
  • Birthday 08/27/1987

Profile Information

  • Location The Netherlands
  • Interests Anything that goes vroom!

Recent Profile Visitors

1559 profile views
  1. GooneyBird

    Traxxas Xmaxx

    If scale looks aren't important, and you want halfway-decent performance on a track, try looking at something like an E-Revo. Their lower CoG really help handling (and the walk of shame when you inevitably flip it onto its lid).
  2. GooneyBird

    Globe Liner

    It looks really good! I've always had a soft spot for those old-school semi trucks. The only thing I would have done differently are the front lights. They're a blue-ish white now, but those old trucks have halogen bulbs so I would have probably liked a bit warmer white for them.
  3. So, my indoor track folded (Boo!) and I had to go and find another club to race at. There's an outdoor track about 20 km from my house, but I never gave it much thought as I simply don't really like running outdoors. However, with the weather improving and..well.. you get the key to the gate so you can run whenever you please, I figured I'd sign up there and give their club comp a try. Note the red RX7 in the background. I was the only 01E there, the rest being either 02R or 02RRs, so I figured I didn't really stand a chance. What I didn't take into account is how well set-up my car is, and years of indoor racing have made me a rather precise driver. I'm not fast, I just don't crash. Slow and steady wins the race.... ...literally. I showed up, and during Q1 I just sorta followed other people around, trying to work out the racing line. Once I got a bit of track knowledge going I upped the speed and started getting into it. This lead to me being second in Q2 and first in Q3. Having set the overall fastest 3 consecutive laps (again, I am really consistent) I got TQ for the first final. The first final was shaping up to be a close battle between me and another member from my old indoor track, but a backmarker took him out in the latter part of the race and..well, I had another backmarker on my 6 so I couldn't hang back and wait for him. The second (of 2) finals went a lot smoother, and after helping another member set-up his (brand spanking new) TT02RR I got a bit of a fair fight going with all 3 of us changing 1-2-3 out for the most part of the race. Eventually I ended up in first after a tangle with a backmarker that involved all 3 of us, and took the win. The tape on the nose is the result of 6 months of racing, a few indoor scrapes and bruises, and one head-on collision with a Traxxas. Don't ask. Things got weird during an open track day. Other than that the RX7 held up nicely. I completely expected the headlights to fall off all the time, but they've been surprisingly durable. The light set, however, did take a bit of a beating with one of the front wheels rubbing through a wire, and another wire getting snagged and broken when I removed the body shell. As a precaution I've removed it. The first time in years (?) that I've had the TT running without low beams. My car with aformentioned brand-new TT02RR. Oh Gods that is such a nice machine. If I ever manage to wear out my 01E I am SO getting one of those. So don't hold your breath, as TTs seem to be at least as durable as old Nokias.
  4. GooneyBird

    Show us your TA03!

    Pulley size does not affect top speed, as long as they're both the same size it shouldn't matter. The pulleys start playing a part when they're of different sizes. You're either under- or overdriving one side of the car, making it either a FWD or RWD-biased car. This is relevant for drifting or when you have the one-way pulley set, on track.
  5. GooneyBird

    Tempted by Tamico again! Oooh CC01!

    I've actually thought about building one up as a touring car. Because that's exactly how mad I am. The whole project kinda hinges on me finding either an F150 Lightning or Mustang body shell, because I'd like it to at least have a solid axle in real life as well. The limited gearing options do pose a challenge though... But that's not what you're asking. Like @Mad Ax said, in stock trim they're suprisingly good approximations of real off-roaders/SUVs. They'll do speed in the same way that a Wrangler does highway speeds, but isn't exactly made to do so. They're quite capable on dirt trails and such, but would you take a completely stock Pajero rock crawing? Or would you build a 6 foot ramp and launch your Honda CR-V off of it? Exactly. On a reasonably scale surface though, they're amazing good fun. I have a basically stock Pajero and use it as my walking buddy. I live near some woods, and there's miles and miles of trails in there used by walkers and mountain bikers. I've fitted a 55t brushed motor, and an old 3000 mAh NiMH lasts me about 90 minutes (or 5 km of trekking through the woods). I usually bring two charged NiMH and have a great afternoon out.
  6. GooneyBird

    Why bevel the teeth?

    I found that most spur gears are actually quite a bit more narrow than the pinion gear. EG. the beveled edge might reduce some stress on the part, make it lighter (by a very slight amount), and not have an impact on contact area.
  7. GooneyBird

    Tempted by Tamico again! Oooh CC01!

    The CC01 is... ehh.. for bashing. It's top heavy with the ABS shell on there, and it has a 4-linked rear axle so axle tuck becomes an issue at higher speeds. They jump fairly flat though, as their weight is nicely 50-50 distributed. Also, it's an ABS body shell, so they're WAY more fragile than a lexan one. If you're looking at trucks to bash, try going to stadium trucks or buggies. Your DT02 should have no issues keeping up with his DT03.
  8. GooneyBird

    Help choosing a new, larger build.

    I've owned a High Lift Hilux, and replaced it with a CC01. The HL is a mechanical marvel. The 3-speed is a lot of fun to build and adjust to work correctly (hint, the manual is correct, but you do need a LOT MORE spacers and patience than the manual indicates.). Once the truck was all together and lit up like a Christmas tree with the optional MFC02 sound module I found that actually running it was a bit...underwhelming. It's a heavy truck, and all the weight is up high. This means it'll tip over easily. Also, the silver can kinda struggles to get it moving in third, so you do need to shift in order to get it working well. It's leaf-sprung so it's never going to have amazing flex. About the height of the lid on a Tamiya rattle can is the best it could muster up, and that was after a few years of running to break in the leafs. Then there's the looks. Yes, the hard bodies are really nice and scale-looking. However, they sit perched up high on a chassis that sticks out from all sides. The axles are too wide for the wheel wells (at least on the Hilux) and the whole thing looks a bit kit-bashed. It's too high and tall for a stock-truck look, but it's too low for a monster/mud bog look. Also, the transmission hangs down VERY low in the chassis. In fact, my stock CC01 Pajero has more ground clearance than the High Lift. All those factors combined made my HL more of a shelfer than anything else. Whereas my CC01 logs up a LOT of miles. (It's my walking buddy. Like a dog, but RC )
  9. Good one! I have a few spare bits now, but the next time something breaks I'll look into those. ... Remember when I said I'd be keeping this one mostly stock? Yeah, me neither.
  10. That's how it started for me as well. This forum, I swear, is not good for one's wallet and/or sanity.
  11. GooneyBird

    How does electronic braking work?

    Akshually! More expensive ESCs can do regenerative braking with brushed motors. They still don't know in which direction the motor is spinning (since it's not sensored) but it does know what + and - is, and it can 'softly' reverse the polarity of the motor (as if you'd be putting it in reverse) and measure the current flowing from the motor to the ESCs. Once that current approaches 0 it will stop braking to prevent rolling the car backwards. You can tell what the ESC is doing by throwing the brakes on and pushing the car by hand. If the ESC 'beeps' (like it does when you're slowly rolling forward) it's actually applying reverse to the motor. If you don't hear anything it's shorting out the motor.
  12. GooneyBird

    Bigfoot Body?

    Traxxas do a polycarbornate version for the Stampede that also seems to fit Clods (and this by proxy also Juggs)
  13. GooneyBird

    Bullhead / Clodbuster alternative bodies

    Jconcepts also do an '82 GMC K2500 (Or Silverado or C/K2500 or however you decide to decal it up), and since the OG Clod body is based on an '80s Chevy K30 (with the same cab, hood line, and bed) I should think this ought to drop straight on the original Clod body posts. In theory at least. The promo photos even show the body on a Clod chassis with the stock chrome bumper sticking out. That's how close the two bodies are in terms of size and dimensions.
  14. GooneyBird

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    Nürburgring decals are included I see. Very important. I'll be following this build as well. I've always liked the scale aspect of F1 cars, but I don't seem to be able to grasp how to set them up properly. WIth this being 3/4 of a Touring Car I might be able to get this to handle halfway decently.
  15. GooneyBird

    Traxxas Blazer

    Agreed! The wheels and hubs are spot-on! In fact, if you lower it a bit and put in on scale-sized road tires (as opposed to the 35+ scale inch swampers it's on out of the box) you'd be hard-pressed to tell this from the real thing when photographed correctly.