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GooneyBird

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About GooneyBird

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  • Birthday 08/27/1987

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  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    Anything that goes vroom!

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  1. Nice! I like! They look scale enough to work, LED-ready body sets are always a big plus in my book, and it's something uncommon. The cars look to have Traxxas' clipless body system, which is either brilliant (e-Revo, (X)Maxx, 2021 Bronco), or sucks so hard because the slope of the front of the body leaves no room for it to come off (...Rustler 4x4). Time will tell. Couple of hmm-moments though; - No front bumper = massive damage when you hit a curb. Those bodies are going to get WRECKED. - Those staggered wheels look amazing, but how will tire support be in...say...10 years?
  2. You can kinda run silvercans on 3S, but they'll get crazy hot with extended use and/or heavy gearing. The ESC is the limiting factor here. The cheapest 3S-capable ESC I can think of is the Hobbywing QR1060. I have a couple and they're stupid reliable on 2S. Never had one on 3S, but they'll do it according to the spec sheet.
  3. I remember there being a technical change in the SIM spec sheet about 4 years ago.... How old is the old SIM? Also, modern phone =/= smart phone. There are a couple of normal phone models still out there. Nokia makes the 105 and the 110, Alcatel still does them as far as I can remember. Not sure if you can still buy a modern day flip phone, but a non-smart phone is still very much a viable option. PS: I looked into the Nokia 105 professionally, and they seem like decent devices. With Nokia being a subsidiary of HMD Global it was inevitable that they'd move production to China, so don't expect the cockroach-style indestructibility of the 3310 of days yore, but prices are reflected accordingly.
  4. Tamiya plugs are decent when matched to what you're doing with them. I ran them on my old scaler because I was too darn lazy to solder over all the plugs, and they were fine. But then, I was running NiMH packs in that thing, and the 45t motor meant that I got runtimes in the hours, so little current draw. All my other models run Deans, with the exception of my track toy, which has 5mm bullet connectors straight into the pack. I find Deans generally covers what I need, and they're easy enough to work with, small enough to not be in the way too much, and can be had for cheap from the Far East if need be. The track toy, meanwhile, has 5mm bullet connectors because that thing dumps a 5Ah pack in about 10 minutes.
  5. It has some great graphics on it, doesn't it? Plus, the technicolor vomit hides any scratches and spots quite well. Almost as if that's intentional.
  6. And through the magic of the internet, parts had arrived! Traxxas parts are actually surprisingly easy to come by, and the cars themselves are quite modular. The Rustler 4x4 shares a common platform/drivetrain with the Slash 4x4, the Hoss, and the Stampede 4x4, so it wasn't too difficult to acquire: A new spur gear A new spur gear holder-thing A slipper clutch rebuild set New bearings for the hubs and the outdrives 4 shock rebuild sets. (Actually, just 2 sets for 4 shocks, but you get the idea) and get the thing back together. I was going to bind it to the same radio as my TRX4, and leave the other radio as a spare or something. I had previously cleaned up the battery tray with a bit of soda, and after a test I found it was in fine functioning condition. Removed the batteries (!), and put it away in the box. The radio for the TRX4 has telemetry. Or rather, a Bluetooth module on the back, along with a 3D-printed phone holder. So I also got a voltage/temperature sensor and RPM sensor for the truck, so I could get live voltage, temperature, RPMs, and speed from the vehicle. After reassembling it, shimming it out to make the drivetrain nice and quiet (I'm still an indoor racer at heart, not gonna lie), I took it out for some fun. Now, keep in mind that I've never had a sensorless brushless vehicle, and my only frame of reference for quickness is my 13.5T sensored touring car. This thing is RAPID! I've only driven it on 2S (because that's all I own), but it's quick! I've yet to do a proper high-speed run with it and get a top speed from it, but from just bashing around on a local skate park and on some roads I'd say it'll hit 55 kph/35 mph. And that's far quicker than anything this size has any right to be. It has a good amount of body roll, pitching up and down with acceleration and braking, and it seems mostly unstoppable/unbreakable. xD Once the RC tracks start opening up again I'll have to take it to an offroad track or something, see what it can do in a controlled environment. And now I desperately need to go clean it again. Dirt magnet this thing is... Also, I've found that these 3 holes in the front of the chassis are a perfect fit for a MyLaps transponder holder. Soo....future track-Rustler coming up?
  7. I'm sitting in the home office/hobby room, pretending to work from home but really watching our two young cats doing...well... cat-things, when the phone rings. *Insert stupid gimmicky ringtone here* " 'ello?" "Hey man, it's [friend I haven't seen in a while]. How you been?" "Decent. Coping with this whole Covid-nonsense. You?" "Same. Hey, you still mess around with those little RC cars? 'cause I need your help with something." "Sure, what's up?" "Well, I got my boy one of them RC cars a few years ago, but it's all kinds of broken and sitting in the back of his closet. With this whole lockdown being a thing for almost a year now we figured we'd try to get it back up and running, but I can't for the life of me figure it out. Wanna come take a look at it?" "Sure! Tell you what, I'll swing by later tonight so we can sit outside for a bit and not have to worry about getting too close indoors, and I'll see what I can do." So I figured it's one of those crappy knockoff things from eBay which has broken a part that is all kinds of unobtainable due to it being aformentioned crappy knockoff eBay thing. Thus, the whole comparing OEMs and brand-names dance would begin and eventually end up concluding that it'd be cheaper just to buy a whole new car from Aliexpress or something. But I was wrong. So wrong. I rolled up to his place later that day, and outside he had the truck, with box and all, and some other odds and ends that came with it. It was not what I had expected. Apparently he had, in a stroke of 'what-could-possibly-go-wrong' bestowed his 6 year old son with a Traxxas Rustler 4x4 VXL. Yeah. I took the thing home, tore it apart and found several things wrong with it. First and foremost, it was disgusting. Sand everywhere, bearings felt gritty, and the spur was toast. I'm guessing the last run was on the beach? The spur gear had a wobble, and looked partially melted. This caused the motor to lock up. Likely due to the... ...slipper clutch being loose. The pads were mostly gone, and I'm surprised it held together to begin with. Scuffs all over the thing. Was to be expected. The lipo was SO FAR out of balance I couldn't save it anymore. It was a 3S pack and the values were something like 1.5, 2.0, 0.9. Gone. Completely flat. Hooked it up to a car light bulb to fully drain it, cut the plug off, soldered the leads together and took it to the recycler. On that note, the AA batteries in the radio had gone sour and leaked. Probably the least of the issues. A bit of soda took care of that. Everything else on the car looked surprisingly decent. Probably had maybe 4-5 packs on it before it blew up and got relegated to the back of the closet. The charger still worked, too. I priced out what needed to get done it get it back up and running from my local hobby store, and shot my friend a phone call back. "Hey man, it's me. I took your car apart and found a bunch of stuff broken on it. In parts you'll need about €X, and that's without a new battery." "Oh. Well, I have batteries here. AA? AAA?" "More like a squarepack 2S lipo." " A wha..? Anyway, I've been thinking it over, and with that price in parts I don't think I'll repair it. Do you want it?" "... err? Yeah, sure. Seems like a fun project for me." "Cool. Tell you what, you give me a fair amount for it that I'll add to the boy's piggy bank for a PS5, and it's yours." So I gave him what I deemed fair for it, plus a bit extra because, hey, PS5s are worthy causes, and ordered the parts I needed (and, y'know, hopups) I now have another Traxxas. This is...worrisome. xD
  8. It actually does matter. One motor spins in reverse. Don't worry if you hook them up incorrectly, as long as you give it a try with all wheels off the floor first it's quite obvious which is going backwards. From memory it's Yellow to Yellow, Blue to Green on the front motor, and Yellow to Green, Blue to Yellow on the rear motor. But! I could be mistaken as I don't have the truck in front of me right now.
  9. @ThunderDragonCy, you're correct in thinking that they won't fit with the stock outdrives. What I did is switch to the 'smaller' style outdrives, in combination with TG10 axles in the rear, and 'normal' universals in the front. If the arms are worth it, that's entirely up to you. They give a couple more options for mounting the lower shock (yay!) and provide the means to install an anti-roll bar (does exactly diddly-squat on a TT IMHO). The real gain lies in the adjustable upper arms, and I'd focus on those over the lower arms. I don't know if aftermarket alu-outdrives will fit. The plastic ones foul quite badly, so they'd have to be a LOT smaller.
  10. I do believe I've pretty much hit peak Clod with this thing. Ever since I installed the JConcepts steering lockout set it's been a completely different truck. It's responsive, doesn't flop all over the place when landing a jump or wheelie, and is just generally a far nicer rig to run. Plus, the crab-walk steering is SO MUCH FUN to play with. Having it on a switch means you can throw it around on the fly. Recent observations: Made a lead to put direct battery voltage on the lights. They ran through the BEC previously, but I noticed with the dual servos the BEC was struggling to keep the lights lit. Will running 6V LEDs on 8.4V explode them? Probably. But I have plently, and I'll get a bigger resistor behind them when they do. For now though, nice and bright. The mirrors look AWESOME. It wheelies on a fresh battery! (Once you get about 10 minutes in it'll only barely pick up the front axle. But on a fresh lipo it'll run the rear bumper into the lawn!) .... but the body is cracking from old age... ...and the wheels are getting more and more yellow. I should probably paint the wheels at some point. The tires glued to them are still good, but the wheels are getting bad. There's a hairline crack developing in one of them. And the body is starting to split right down the middle where the bed meets the body. I've glued it shut again, but at some point this does need attention. Maybe tilt bed, staying in theme with the 1980s Monster Truck-vibe?
  11. It's only been like a month. That's not a bad price, honestly. Is it a Revo 1 or 2(.0)? If an all-out stunt truck is something you desire, I'm sure you can do a whole lot worse than a Revo. Parts supply from Traxxas seems to be spot-on (and you're American so it's probably even better for you!) and they are more than capable enough. They're pure, unashamed bashers. Made to wheelie, jump over improbably large items, and come back asking for more. What they aren't, are racers, anything remotely resembling a scale model of a real thing, or nice tinker objects. You buy them, pull them out of the box, smash some batteries in them, and go. Whereas a solid axle monster truck is way more 'tinkerable'. So what I'm saying is; it's up to you. If I had access to a place to run a Revo (like a skate park, or dirt playground or something), I'd do it. If all you have is your lawn and the beautifully manicured rose garden next to it, maybe not.
  12. Nice to hear you’re dialing in the car! Those TTS are lovely to drive once you’ve got them working right. I miss the track. Everything here is still closed. Seeing your pics makes me hope they’ll allow us in soon. (Also, should I ever make it to the UK I need to grab a race or two of that series. Sounds like fun!)
  13. Well, white doesn’t become anything, it just happens to work as a ground in this situation. Maybe that’s just how your receiver works, maybe it’s common. Never tried it actually. :p The slightly longer version of how a radio works is that it gives pulses of a certain duration, and that tells the servo to move to a certain position. the fact that an LED will light up on the white wire is because inbetween the pulses the white wire is at 0V (neutral), working as a ground to the +5V the receiver sees. The pulses themselves are +5V, and the only reason you’re not shorting stuff out is because the LED itself works as a diode, only letting current pass in one direction but blocking it in the other. I’m not sure what would happen if you plug in an incandescent light bulb the wrong way around, but I can imagine you’d short out your receiver and severely upset your BEC in the ESC. Don’t try that at home I’d say.
  14. A normal servo plug has 3 wires, white for signal, red for 5V, and black for negative. Signal is a pulse, so nothing 'useful', leaving 5V + and -. When you plug in your LEDs, they get 5V through the red and black wire, and thus, will turn on. When you plug them in backwards, they still get 5V through the center red wire, and ground to the signal part of the receiver, which works because that uses 5V as a reference and thus, can act as ground for 'simple' stuff. (That's about the really really short version of it). If you want to turn lights on and off remotely you'll need a separate switch. Our friends in the far east sell one (I have one on the Pajero, which is currently for sale, hint hint wink wink), and I'm sure that you can buy many of those unbranded switches on eBay.
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