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About GooneyBird

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  • Birthday 08/27/1987

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  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    Anything that goes vroom!

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  1. Long looong loooooong overdue update: I believe the Basher has died. The last time out it suddenly swerved out of control, had a nasty crash, and ended up at the back of the closet. I took it out today, seeing what's up with my little guy, and found the chassis plate has cracked from the servo hole all the way to the side of the chassis, not only making it impossible to mount a servo, but also leaving the chassis very floppy. And of course, 6 years after the fact, spares are all but unavailable. Not sure what to do now....
  2. Hi. No, I looked all over last night, and actually went for a second dive this morning when I had daylight on my side (yay, working from home!) I found the box it was supposed to be in, but it wasn't in there anymore so I'm guessing I must have moved it on and forgot about it. Sorry to get your hopes up.
  3. I think I've got one of those... Let me check tonight. Functionality unknown though, as it came in a box with other bits when I bought my Clod, and looks suitably mad-scientist-y that I'm not touching it. Will update when I've found it.
  4. ... there's one from the Far East that fits almost too well. I got mine from Aliexpress, but I'm sure there are plenty other webshops that carry it. Anyway, the thing is almost as wide as the rear of the chassis, with the rest taken up by a couple of washers.... I had to take off a bit of the arms to prevent the body from snagging. But other than that it fits really well! (Please excuse the dust on the Clod. It's been too hot to run, and thus, has been sitting for a good while) And it should prevent the bumper from destrying itself when the fronts pop up.
  5. Quick update: I still have the thing, and took it to a track last year. It did poorly. xD I mean, this could potentially be due to the fact that: a) I am VERY out of practice when it comes to tracking RC cars b) I'm not experienced in doing off-roady stuff on track. c) the track itself was a bit shoddy and covered in dampness d) Traxxas never meant for this thing to be a track car. Still, I had fun and didn't break anything, despite my best attempts.
  6. Nice build! I can highly recommend the JConcepts servo mounts if you want decent steering without ruining the retro look. That's exactly what I did, as I wanted my Clod to appear stock but steer a little better. You can mount this AND retain the stock bumpers. https://jconcepts.net/regulator-servo-mount-kit-bas-1-set
  7. Yep, that's in the 419. I've started out running it on 0.6 mod because as a TT-racer, that's what I had. I later converted it to 64dp as my local track/shop had a lot more variety in that pitch. What I noticed is that on-power there's less 'clunk' as the gears engage. I'm attributing that to simply having more teeth engaged (or partway engaged) at the same time than a coarser pitch gear. While I agree there's a little harder to mesh correctly, it can absolutely be done well if you get a feel for it. What I look for is the slightest amount of freeplay in the gears. When meshed correctly, and with both pinion and spur fresh, it should be near whisper-quiet. As the spur wears it'll get a little louder obviously, but still nowhere near the sound of a 0.6 mod gearset. I'll have to look if I've got video, but at our old indoor track (which was carpet on a wooden floor) you could hear the thunking of the wood as the car flew down the straight. The car itself was that quiet.
  8. In my experience, going from 48dp to 64dp in my onroad race cars, it's smoother making for easier on-power transitions, and a lot quieter.
  9. Yep, I figured it was the later release. However, the upper hull still has copyright marks from 1974, making that part at least the same as the original model.
  10. Very cool to have that connection. Have you ever been there yourself?
  11. Right, so as promised, how I set up the radio to work with the tank. Tamiya themselves make a guide on how to do it, but I've found it's mostly incorrect (!) Mainly, the channel layout. Anyway, for reference, I've bought a Flysky FS-6i. It's a mode 2 transmitter, meaning channels 3 and 4 are on the left stick, and 1 and 2 are on the right. This means that the tank is completely controlled with the right stick, and the turret and special features go through the left. What I wanted was a way to have the tank be drivable without 'accidentally' shooting at something. This means messing with the dual rates and the throttle hold. What I did was: - set the end points of ch3 and ch4 to 75% in the radio - reset the DMD-T5 according to the manual, and then teach it the end points of the sticks - I then set the end points of all channels back to 100%. This means I now could control the things I normally needed the trims for simply by pushing the sticks to their very end. Now the fun part: Channel 3 was designated as 'throttle' by the radio. This meant I could employ Throttle Hold. I set Switch B to be Throttle Hold, and with it in the default (up) position, it would hold ch3 at 50% (neutral, as far as the tank is concerned). So with the switch up, I could not move the gun up and down, nor could I shoot. With it down I can (as it now goes through the normal travel, plus the extra bit because I set the end points to 75% before teaching the DMD-T5). Channel 4 is turret left/right, and all the way to the right is turning the lights on/off. The first I wanted to lock out, but I did want to be able to turn the lights off and on without touching a switch. What I did there was use the dual rates AND exponential. With Switch A up (default), the stick had 100% range (so it would hit the rightmost point required for the lights) and 100% exponential. This meant effectively that the stick would stay at 50% travel for the most part of its range, until it hit about 90% range, at which point it would jump to 100% travel. I think a screenshot explains this a little more clearly. Keep in mind the graph the radio gives isn't 100% accurate. This meant that with the switch up, channel 4 would do nothing until it hit the VERY END of the travel in either direction. For the left this still meant it did nothing (100% left = nothing), but to the right this would flick the lights off and on, but not move the turret as it was past the range for the turret to respond. Remember how we set the endpoints to 75% when we taught the DMD-T5? with the stick at 75% range it would still ask 50% of travel, only jumping to 100% travel at 85-or-so% of range. Effectively: With both switches up, the tank is drivable through the right stick, and tapping the left stick all the way to the right turns the lights off and on. With switch A down I now gain control of the turret left/right rotation, but still can't shoot. With switch B down I now have control over the gun, can raise and lower it, and I can shoot. So Switch A = turret control, Switch B = gun control. Also, I have an idea on how to remote-control the volume, but it's.... ... a bit tight for space in there, so more pondering is required. Oh, and those red tubes? Antennae. With the receiver essentially being an aircraft receiver it came with 2 aerials. I stuck both to the top of the speaker box to get them out of the metal chassis. The receiver itself is stuck to the front of the speaker box, with the wiring tucked away as neatly as I could.
  12. So a Full-Option M4 Sherman, sans radio, fell into my lap. (Long story) I've never owned a tank before, so I have no idea what I'm doing here or getting myself into, but it seemed like a fun vehicle to have in the fleet. I've driven (commandeered?) both of @Fuijo's tanks before, and had a blast with them just rolling over stuff and taking fake-shots at each-other, so yeah, I decided to take the plunge. It even came with a box, the manual, the whole nine yards! It was disassembled in three main components (hull, upper body, turret) to fit in the box, but all were quickly assembled. I ordered a 4 channel radio from the Far East, and when that arrived I assembled the whole thing and gave it a rundown. (yeah, I'm a Linux nerd) https://youtu.be/3v5KaDRBpIo Anyway, it runs just fine after I fiddled with the radio and the MFC. Usually I'm pretty good with electronics, but having a radio with no instructions to speak of, combined with an ESC/MFC/Fancy Box that I'm not too familiar with at the same time is daunting. It works now though, and with clever usage of dual rates I never have to touch the trims again. I'll make a follow-up post detailing what I've done to get it to work. Now what, though. I like the thing as a RC vehicle. It's great fun to roll around the living room and... ... terrorize the cats. But as an object, I feel ambivalent. As an RC vehicle I can appreciate the effort that went into making it as realistic as possible, and it's technically Tamiya's first RC vehicle so it has that going for it. Also, the electronics on it are so unbelievably advanced for...what, mid 1990s? Using a camera flash module as the light effect for the cannon (not to be confused with a camera flash for a Canon) is quite clever usage of existing tech for something new. However, I'm not much into real-life tanks. Or anything war-related for that matter. I can appreciate the intricacies of planing and what it does on a social and economical scale (I'm Dutch. Hellooo Marshall-plan and cultural imperialism!), and can consider myself somewhat of a history buff. badword, I wrote a whole novel set in the East-Berlin of 1989, and got complimented on it by people actually from the GDR on capturing the spirit of their Heimat. But the actual, physical act of going out and harming people? No, not really my thing. But, it's a model of a tank sitting pretty on my shelf regardless. So I've decided to take it on a slightly different route. And no, I'm not going to paint it metallic purple and put flames on it, tempting as though that sometimes can be. My job sometimes takes me to and through Arnhem, of Operation Market Garden-fame. Sure, it's just another city today, but there are still traces of where the liberation started for 'us' all around. One of them is a Sherman M4 parked in a WW2 museum that I regularly drive past. What I'm going to do is model the tank as it looked when it rolled through the streets of Arnhem. What that entails, from easy to difficult: - Paint a name on it, preferably badly with visible (1:16th scale) brush strokes and all. I'm open for suggestions. Keep it family-friendly. xD - Find a scale lady and drape her across the tank in the best of "hello boys.."-fashion -... and maybe add a couple of soldiers ogling aformentioned lovely gal. - Improvised flag post or something on the back, so I can stick the Dutch (or whatever's historically accurate) flag on the back - Maybe weather/wash it a bit? I mean, those tanks did do a lot of traveling before arriving in The Netherlands... - Find a TINY TINY MP3 player or Bluetooth speaker so I can play the sounds of crowds cheering and/or the Dutch anthem as it rolls around. Regarding the last item on the list: I've thought about tapping into the wiring for the speaker playing the engine sounds. It's a good speaker, loud as heck, and already on the tank. However, the wiring is old, and not easily replaced in case something goes wrong. So, separate speaker. Either an MP3 player with its own speaker, or a Bluetooth speaker running from my phone. Space is at a premium, so it'd have to be quite small, or modular so I can start hiding it in leftover spaces. And preferably battery powered. I've got two ports free on the (6 channel) receiver, but I don't know how much BEC overhead the DMD-05 has to play with. Having it be a standalone system means I can remove it in case I ever decide... I dunno, to indeed paint it metallic purple with flames. Anyway, not sure if this is going to be something that's going to be finished in two weeks, but watch this space for updates.
  13. Welcome to the rabbit hole of the Chinese rebranding stuff. I'm actually convinced there's, like, maybe three factories actually producing stuff, and the rest just sticks labels on things and prints boxes.
  14. There are a couple of markets Tamiya currently has no stake in. Some might work for them, some not at all. Firstly; there's the basher market. Like it or not, but RC cars sell to kids who wanna 'go fast' and jump over stuff. Plus, never underestimate the wallets of the XTREME-sportz dudes who want the baddest-looking toy on the market. I'm talking the same people who buy powerboats and jet skis. Currently ARRMA and Traxxas have that market. Tamiya could butt in. How? By building something that - is RTR, and built well out of the box. So, ball bearings, oil shocks, metal drive train, universals on all four corners. - Has electronics that are 3S-capable. Yes, I know.. but it's what the market wants these days. I'm sure they've still got the molds from the TRF801XT kicking around. Take the suspension of that thing, and combine it with a new base chassis that can hold a 550 or 750-sized brushless motor, 3S-battery, and a waterproof receiver box. Also, mold everything out of that tough-yet-flexible plastic that RPM uses. Shouldn't be too hard to reverse-engineer. Then take the body from either the Rock Sock...thing..., or the actual TRF801XT body, pre-paint it in some multi-color vomit color scheme, stick some dark chrome wheels and 2.2 allroad tires on there and watch the money roll in. What does this thing bring to the table that something like a E-Revo or Kraton can't? Not much, but undercut the pricing slightly and you've got a seller. For the nostalgia factor you could smash a lexan squarebody Chevy on there and call it Son of Clod or something. Then there's the scaler market. I personally can't believe that the best Tamiya has come up with is the CC02. Look at what the aftermarket does with TLT1 axles! Or Clod-axles for that matter! Alright, here's my plan; keep the CC02 going, and put as many beautiful hard bodies on as you can. Restart the line that made the Toyota Tundra, F350, and Hilux, and find a way to adapt them to the CC02. (And change the F350 to an F250. I've never seen a short-cab, long-bed Single Rear Wheel F350...) For the American market you can 100% repop the Clod-body and put that on there too. (Blackfoot body? Would that fit?) Then see if you can do a pretty Land Rover Discovery 1 or 2, maybe a newer Hilux for that Technical/Middle-east look, things like that. Then, as a step up from that, you take the TLT1/High-lift axles and mate them to a bigger chassis. 4-link them, and make a 1:8th-ish scale lexan body on top. Keep the High-lift 3 speed but change the gearing down by a LOT. First gear should be a crawler gear, second gear an inbetween, and third gear should barely do stock-TT-speeds. For bonus points see if you can engineer a retrofit kit to remotely lock and unlock the axles. Not sure if it can be done with High-lift axles but it's a fun experiment. Look at a TRX4 or MST CFX-W. And for those looking for a 'real' crawler; they've got the perfect axles sitting RIGHT THERE. Look at the Clod-axles. They've been in production since the late stone age (Like, there are cave drawings of Neanderthalers chasing mammoths with their Clods) so the tooling is more than paid for. Then, 4-link them by basically doing a race-Clod-chassis, and make new gear sets to gear them down. (Bigger spur and smaller pinion. Do Maths so that you can use the original screw holes in the gearbox side). 2.2 wheels on there from above-mentioned TRF801XT-derivative, but this time clad in proper rock-crawley tires. Smash some random body on top, maybe try something outlandish like the Wild One body or something (with full exo cage because why the heck not?). Go mad and make a full 2.2 comp crawler. Then; actual monster trucks. And not of the X-Maxx-y kind (see above for the basher) but a solid-axle truck. Keep making the Clod. I'm serious. Just. Keep. Doing. It. Maybe change the livery once again (Purple Ultra Clod Buster?) and for the love of all things, include bearings. As a hop-up, make a Behind-The-Axle steering set. Do what JConcepts did, but better because you're Tamiya and you can swing that scale advantage when it comes to molding stuff. Also, since you've restarted the line for the F350 (F250, really) and the Hilux, plonk those on top of the Clod chassis with a couple of trick body posts. Call the F350 the Super Juggernaut, the Hilux the Super Bruiser, and the Tundra the Ice Giant (Ice? Tundra? Get it?) and have your marketing department go nuts on liveries. Next to that, make a modern solid-axle truck based around the Juggernaut's axles and a new center gearbox (obviously...). 4-link it, and take a very very good look at an Axial SMT10 or Losi LMT when designing it. Make a few roll cages to fit different bodies, and make a few different bodies to fit it. Of course include a few hard bodies from the NewClod and make a few lexan pickup trucks. Doesn't matter if they're generic bodies, modern day monster trucks aren't exact copies of Dodges/Fords/Chevys anymore either. Make it single motor out of the box, but make a hop-up for dual motors. And for the love of all things plastic, do not make the same mistake as you did with the original Juggernaut and really really make sure the gears can handle more than a pair of silver cans on a NiMH. Make sure it can do at least 2S on a pair of 1800Kvs or something. Moving on to racing: I don't know much about offroad racing, but people generally seem pleased with the TRF201-range. Produce that, and maybe make a few conversion sets like a laydown transmission or a carpet-setup. Basically, a Tamiya XB4 2WD. Then; using as many parts from the TRF201 as you can, make a 4WD version, and a suite of parts to convert one into the other. (IE: start off with a TRF201 2WD, then convert to a 4WD or back again). If you're feeling particularly adventurous you can use the same platform to re-release the Stadium Blitzer Now; onroad. The mid-class TC range is fine, actually. The TA07 and TA08 seem to be the ones to beat in that class, and the FF04 seems to rock pretty hard at the new Fronti-class. But for the love of all things, Keep. Making. Parts. For some reason they've all but stopped production on the FF04 Evo and relevant spare parts. And no-one's going to run a car where you can't get parts for it. Bottom range TCs: The TT02, again, is fine. It's cheap, easy to build and produce, and just keep on churning them out by the dozen. The R and RRs are nice and well-received, and anyone looking for a serious TC can look at the TA or TB-range. Maybe, eventually, make a TT02 Type E with an upper deck, revised plastics for the shock towers (the TT02D-plastics seem to be the golden ticket), and keep churning them out. Also, I'm loving the funky colors. Do more of that. Make every sprue in every color. I want to see purple suspension arms on green tubs with blue hubs and a yellow center shaft. Go full bananas. Bring back the clear cars while you're at it! Top-flite TCs are generally fine too. Make yearly update packages so the owner of a TRF420 '21, can update their car to a TRF420 '22. Go back to the old naming scheme of only increasing the digit when the bulkheads change. (TRF419 to TRF420 was confusing...). Then there's the M-chassis'. The M07 and M08 are fine. More bodies! Listen to the market, occasionally poll the importers in different parts of the world to figure out what people want, and try to license them. I can see the American market wanting things like MX5s, S2000s and MR2s, whereas the European market will love (more) old RWD rally cars like the Escort, a Stratos, or similar. Similarly, put a Peug 205 Rallye (the road-going version) on the M07, and for the SWB-fans out there; MG Metro. (who owns the British Leyland license anyway?) Brings me to the bodies; see above for polling importers. You're Tamiya fercryingoutloud, you can license pretty much anything and everything if you desire. Things I think would sell: TCs: Old-school European racing cars. Things like a Sierra Cossie, Opel Manta GSi, Jag XJS... Also, I'm sure the Americans wouldn't mind a couple of cool old muscle cars done right: Fox-body Mustang, F-body Camaro/Firebird, things like that. Maybe a Dodge Charger Shelby GLHS on a LWB M-chassis? Re-release the SN95 Mustang, and do a road-version of the current Mustang next to the GT4 version. Note how I'm not touching the semi-trucks. Those are actually fine as is. Maybe make an MFC04-module where the user can link the thing with their PC, Beier-style, and do their own sound sets? Overall; I'd like to see bearings and oil-shocks become standard across the board. I mean.... come on. I can live with the JIS-screws (they're NOT Philips heads!) but not bushings and pogo-shocks. The TBLE04S finally seems to have decent lipo support, so that's nice. For the bashers you might want to look into making a 1:8th-ish scale 3S capable ESC. Maybe license something from Hobbywing so you don't have to go about reinventing the wheel. Radio's? Never mind that. Put a bottom-range Futuba in the box for the RTR models, maybe strike a deal with them to make a 3 or 4 channel version for the crawlers, and leave it at that. Everyone and their uncle runs their own radio set anyway, and you can't please them all. So yeah, that's my 2 yen on this. Maybe not do all of the above things, but a general move in this direction would be nice.
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