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GooneyBird

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Everything posted by GooneyBird

  1. Hi, I have two M03 C-parts spruces that are (nearly?) complete. Interested? I tried PMing you but for some reason you seem to be unable to receive them. Inbox full perhaps?
  2. No problem, but due to the whole Brexit kerfuffle that does mean shipping is €6. Despite it being an envelope I still need to send it as if it were a package. Is that okay with you?
  3. I recently converted my Clod to the Regulator BTA servo setup, and the kit came with a rear steering lockout kit. Specifically, THIS kit. Since I'm running dual steering, I now have two rear lockout kits and zero axles to put them on. They're unopened, unused (obviously) and come with all the hardware that came with it neatly labeled and in a bag. I'll do €10 a piece, or both for €17,50. This is excluding shipping, but they fit in a sturdy envelope so I'm sure that won't be too crazy. I accept Paypal.
  4. For sale, the two carbon shock towers for a TT01E. I ran these in a single race, and was then politely told they were all kinds of against the rules. Whoopsie! Ergo, my racer has been converted back, and these two beauties are for sale. They come complete with all the hardware I used to mount them on my car, as well as the plastic sprues with body posts and such. As far as I can recall none of the plastic parts have been cut off, but they've been in my pit bag for over a year so.. Ideally, I'd like €25 per tower, and I'll do €40 for the pair. This is excluding shipping which is obviously dependent on your location. They should fit a good sturdy envelope, so I don't think it'll be too expensive. I'll accept Paypal, obviously.
  5. As promised, a couple of vids. Note how the servos are able to throw the wheels from lock to lock at a standstill. Improvements! This is how the dual steering setup works. I've mixed the aux-channel/ch3 (rear servo) with ch1 (front servo). As soon as ch1 moves, ch3 moves. I've then programmed the switch to control dual rates for ch3. With the switch up, the servo goes from 0% to 100% (a bit less, actually, to account for the servo throw). With the switch down the servo goes from -100% to 0%, effectively reversing it. This means... ... it can crabwalk! I've seen a couple of real old-school monster trucks do it, and to have this ability in the Clod is just too cool. It takes a bit of getting used to while driving. I can throw the switch with my thumb, meaning I can go from normal to reverse steering while also giving steering inputs at the same time. Occasionally, you misjudge and you end up in the grass. I love this thing so much. Some people complain that it's too slow, but it's perfect for what it is. Especially now that I've improved the steering its so much fun to drive. In the spring I'll get some ramps up in the back yard, see how it flies (and lands) now. And yes, I'll get rid of those branches.....eventually. There's no need to ask me every 6 months.
  6. Look, my Clod is completely different now! You can't really tell, can you? And that's exactly my intention! There's less stuff here now! With the removal of the drag link and the steering link the front end has cleaned up a bit. Anyway, back to what I was doing... After building another axle exactly like the post above, I reattached them to the chassis, and set about giving the electronics a spot in the truck. With the servo gone from the main tub, and no mechanical bits down in the hole anymore, I had quite a big hole to fill. \ Not that I'm short on things to stuff in there! On the bottom is a TT02 receiver box holding my receiver (and a bunch of excess wiring). On top of that I've stuck the Hobbywing QR860 ESC. From the receiver box come four pairs of wires. One going to the ESC above it, two going to the servo, and the bind/aux-port has an extension wire on it should I ever need to re-pair (not repair) it. That fourth lead then goes into another extension wire and up toward the body to power the headlights. That thing on the left side you ask? That's my Lipo alarm. The ESC has one built-in, but with the distances the Clod is away from me at times (beach runner!) I'd rather have it beep its head off so I know something is up. The drop in speed as it goes into low-voltage cutoff is sometimes hardly noticable. (The Clod is...not fast). That Lipo buzzer is situated right where the old Power/Economy switch is, and the cutout in the tub is a neat window into the voltage display. Pretty neat, eh? It's attached using two halves of a tie-wrap, creating a double-headed tie-wrap that's pulled through the holes with a washer behind it. I couldn't find anything else to hold it, and the red plastic tie-wraps kinda tie in (no pun intended) with the iconic Clod-red. And yes, you can still totally see it with the body on. I used to have the receiver box right underneath the antenna mount under the bed of the truck, but with the relocation I didn't want to run the antenna all the way through the car. Solution, stick it on the little antenna holder of the receiver box! Somehow magically that ends up in the cab of the truck, and that's just the right height for it too. I love it when things work out like that. Ye Gods, it's big. Normally my green mat comfortably holds just about any car, with room to the sides for my tools. I really have to maneuver around the Clod when working on it. I've given up using the computer behind it at the same time to play music... And yes, the lights still work, and are still not actually this sickly shade of yellow in real life. Because the chassis is mostly symmetrical when its on your desk, I obviously: - Set the reversers wrong for both servos - Had both motors turn in reverse - Then reversed the wrong one so now I had one running correctly, and the other one opposite. - And to top it off I wrested with the body trying to put it on backwards. What have we learned? Don't do this after a long day at work.... It's weird how little play there is in the system now. There's a bit of a wobble to the tires, but that's it. It can steer at a standstill, and both axles pop to full lock with ease. It turns on a dime. Tomorrow I'll try to get some shots of it driving. I can crabwalk now! Stay tuned for that. This just about wraps up the build I guess. It was a fun couple of nights. I haven't heard from Jconcepts yet regarding the clearance issue between the servo and the motor, but when (if...) I do I'll update this topic.
  7. ... yeah, me neither. I've been running the Clod a fair amount recently, what with the whole 'rona going on outside, and while it's been a solid runner there's one thing that I just can't get over; the steering. It's vague, and the front axle is always the one steering the least. (And when driving in reverse, the roles are reversed.) I've made some improvements, though minor, but the bump steer, the slop in everything and the general vagueness remained. I've looked into axle-mounted servo solutions, but all of them required hacking the front bumper off, which is not something I'm prepared to do. That red underride-guard is just such an iconic look for the truck! I mean, that's just such a good look! However, recently, Jconcepts came up with a Behind-the-axle servo mount set, and from the looks of it, it seemed like I could retain the bumper and basically hide the servo completely. As a bonus, this also deletes the stock servo savers on top of the axle, so in theory I'd gain a little more suspension travel if I cut down on the bump stops. Step 1; tear down and 'chunkify' the Clod. I love how modular those things are. This is about to get seriously cleaned up! Wrapping the servo in CF-wrap proved to be a mistake later on. The intentions were good, trying to hide the things a bit more... Looks great though! Right, let's get cracking on the first axle! No wonder the steering felt gritty.... In with the new! The set comes with a rear lockout bar, but since I want to run dual steering I bought two sets and won't be needing the rear lockout. I'l put it up for sale at some point, someone else might get some use out of it. Since the Jconcepts kit came with no instructions, here's a brief recap should anyone else want to do this. 1. Build the servo holder. 2. Attach servo 3. Attach custom fancy-schmanzy servo arm to servo, making sure to center it. 4. And this is the genius part: Attach the servo holder to the upper arm (!) using the provided backplate as a stopper. 5. Marvel at how neatly tucked-in the servo sits there, almost as if it was meant to be there. 5.5. Scratch head as to why the servo is hitting the motor.... Remember the wrap I put on? Yeah, take that off again. It helps a bit, but there is still contact. I've contacted JConcepts about this, asking what size motor and servo they built this set for. I have a suspicion that either something changed in the long run of Clod axles (because I've seen reviews online of this set and they did not have this problem), or that a silver can is somehow thicker than most other motors... I decided to soldier on with the build as I wait on a response from Jconcepts. It's early January, so I suspect their offices are closed for the holidays. I can always easily remove and remedy whatever's needed. Step 6, insert screws through upside-down steering knuckles, adding the weird bearing hat-things while humming the Mexican hat-song. Step 7: Build a turnbuckle. [Imagine a picture of me swearing and hurting my fingers here...] Step 8: add a ball connector to both the C/F steering link and the servo arm, pop the bearings in the C/F link, and assemble. Step 9: Pop all the ball connectors in their sockets, hurting yourself in the process Step 10: Bumpers. Note how the bumper is on in the above picture. You need to remove a TINY amount from one lug to make it fit over the screws of the servo holder, and that's it. The whole assembly is scarily play-free, and aside from the issue with the servo hitting the motor, feels well-designed and engineered. As soon as I get an update from Jconcepts I'll update this post with what I did wrong. (or rather, if my servo's too fat or something).
  8. I had a transmitter with rubber that was perishing. I trimmed off enough so that a large piece of shrink tubing would fit. Worked like a charm!
  9. While traveling in the US I've seen a couple of indoor offroad clay tracks. Basically hard-packed dirt that'd been treated to stay put somehow. Also, realistic offroad? Look at trophy trucks. They move, lean, and behave much like their 1:1 counterparts, and the Traxxas Slash is the de-facto control cup car on those tracks.
  10. Oh, it's great. It's my first motorcycle I've built, and the first model kit in at leat 5 years, so if I can build it to a reasonable standard so can you. The new 125cc Monkeys are surprisingly roomy! The seating position on them isn't that much different from, say, my wife's CBF. They're tiny bikes, but surprisingly roomy for what they are.
  11. Very cool mod! Next year (when the world has gone back to normal levels of insanity) we'll need to hit the beach again, see if she'll pop a wheelie in the sand.
  12. *sound of John Lennon rolling in his grave. A while back I told you guys I was looking for something else, a new challenge. And with this whole corona-thing I couldn't really go to any track anyway (something about being labeled a Essential Worker in healthcare, even though all I do is make computers go beep-boop) I decided to do something I hadn't done in years, while still staying true to Tamiya. I bought a plastic model kit! Yes, the venerable Honda Monkey! I've ridden one in real-life, and fell in love with it. They're a bit expensive still, being quite new, but once they drop in value a bit on the second-hand market I'd love to get one as a town runabout. Mount a giant basket to the rear and go grocery shopping with it. It'd probably fit down the aisles! Anyway, I haven't taken many pictures during the build, as I was doing things out of order to make painting a little easier, but here's a couple. That moment when your model is in that post-modern art phase. And after about a month of building a couple of hours on the evenings... ... we have a Banana Yellow Honda Monkey! It was nice building a plastic model kit again. The fumes, the teeny tiny parts, the perfect fit and finish Tamiya gives their kits. Tamiya has moved on to giving clear parts a clip-in construction. As you might know plastic model glue fogs clear plastic, and this way it's not needed for the head and taillight, making sure they're crystal clear. The turn indicators are still glued on, but glueing them with wood glue makes sure they stay clear. The rear spring is an actual metal spring. I primed it using regular metal primer, and painted it yellow along with the rest of the frame and tank-parts. Regardless it's a slightly different hue from the rest. Ah well.. It was very nice of Tamiya to include rubber tubing (it looks like tiny shrink wrap?) to simulate brake hoses and throttle cables. As on the real bike it all sorta packs together under the tank. Getting the tank to sit straight was.... a challenge. I can imagine the real bike being a little easier in that regard. So how small is it? Well, this is Link, our 6 month-old kitten. He's not very large. (And rather fuzzy) My Monkey is considerably smaller than him. And no worries, 0 destruction happened after I took this picture. He's (mostly) a well-behaved cat.
  13. Yeah, yeah, I know, but hear me out. As we all know, the Clod Buster is based on mid to late 1980s monster trucks. The true old-school giants, just before Bob Chandler and Bigfoot 8 would change the face of monster trucking forever. The Clod, as Tamiya made it, seems to be heavily inspired by Taurus, as pictured below. Notice something? Yeah. The Clod sits too high on the chassis. On Taurus the tops of the tires seem to just about hang below the wheel wells, wheras with the Clod they're not even close. And the more I look at it, the more I start to wonder. Could you lower the body of a Clod over the chassis? The battery holders look like they just about fit inside the body without distorting it, so that should work. Nothing on the top of the chassis seems to foul the chassis either. The front bumper and its brackets would have to go, but that's a minor modification. All one needs are lower body posts.... hmm... Does anyone know if someone makes/prints Clod-sized body posts, but lower? Has anyone ever done this?
  14. No worries, that's what we're here for. Any 'straight' body post set will work. The Tamiya-sanctioned option would be 51253 (from the TA05 onwards), 51102 (TA04), or 19005741 (CC01). Though all will leave you with more parts than you really need or can fit. There are a lot of aftermarket body post sets for all manner of cars. As long as they mount with a single screw from underneath it'll work.
  15. Having driven (or rather, tried to drive) an M04 and made an attempt to make it handle, I can say that you need a LOT of weight over the rear wheels. A TT is a rather well-balanced car, which is what you want for a 4WD car, but not RWD. Contrary to 1:1 scale RWD cars you'd need about an 80/20 split rear to front to get a RWD car to do anything. Look at an M06, with its motor and gearbox hanging out the back. That was done for a reason. An M08 has the motor inboard again, but moves all the electrics and battery back. Look at RWD buggies; same deal. Now look at succesfull FWD cars like an M05 or M07, or a FF04 Pro. No weight at the rear, everything over the front wheels. You could probably convert a high-end TC into a RWD car if you flip the rear gearbox/diff around and move everything back. Basically a Frontie-conversion in reverse. xD EDIT: @Juls1: *high five for posting at the same time, saying the same thing*
  16. Good question, and one that can probably only be answered in long form. The Alpine is around because it's my very first RC car, ever. The one that started it all. I raced that thing, bashed it on parking lots, burned through the original tires so badly they were basically no longer there, and still it held together. It's up in a display cabinet, and when I run it (which is not very frequently), it gets run very gently. The TT01 is such a versatile platform that I'm sure I can find some use for it somewhere. Be it as a parking lot basher, or a serious racing car in its own class. There's another endurance race (which is maybe cancelled, maybe not, depending on Corona) later this year where I plan to deploy it, assuming I can get enough people together to form a team. Basher is around...well... for a track that might not be around this winter. There's a track in Utrecht that's built and torn down in a gym hall once every month in the winter, and the little dude just owns there. If that track does not reopen (or rather, gets rebuilt), of which there is talk unfortunately, it makes no sense to sell it on. It was a very cheap car to buy, and there's little demand for it now that all the indoor tracks are gone. So I'm looking at maybe €25 if I'm lucky, and for that price I'd rather have it around on a shelf should something pop up again. The Clod...well.... it's a Clod. I've always wanted one as a kid, and now I have one. Also, it's great fun on the beach, and an amazing object to look at. The Pajero is my walking buddy. I take it out on trails nearby, and while it's not very capable (Hence the mind wanders to a TRX4) and a bit outclassed by some of the ruts I do appreciate its scale looks (which is why I'm not going to turn it into yet-another crawler that looks nothing like its 1:1 counterpart). Plus, I have a tow hitch for it and the weird idea to build a car trailer for it. Which might actually make a great project if I can get that mentally un-stalled. The TRF is a similar story to Basher's. It's not worth a lot of money right now as demand is low. It's a 419 so it's a tad too old to be ultra-bleeding-edge competitive (IE: it's not a 420XR with all the hopups), but it's not so old that it's a cool rare classic. (IE: It's not a TRF414M, or even a 417 MR). Plus, that thing absolutely shreds carpet like it's nobody's business. It makes me look like a way better driver than I actually am. Ask @Fuijo, he's seen it go-go-go at our old track. @Silver-Can, the more I look into tanks the more I start to dislike them. Which is weird, because it's usually the other way around. I think that running a tank could be a lot of fun if you have a couple going at the same time, but in confinement they seem a bit...I dunno... 1-sided? Also, I'm not much into tanks and/or military stuff. I dig some cold-war relics (ergo the WPL truck I mentioned earlier), but I don't like the shooty-shooty stuff. I've thought about going back into RC helis, before I was reminded why I got out. With RC helis it's either a good flight, or an expensive flight. There's no in-between. I had a couple of fixed-pitch birds I liked flying around indoors, and flew my dad's Trex600 on numerous occasions (he's an RC flight instructor at his club. This is a real thing. Baffled me too), but eventually got out because most of my flights were of the expensive kind. (Or rather, ended expensively). RC Boats: I have a LOT of water around me, so in that regard a boat would work for me. I'd have to find something I'd like to own as a model, too, which is a bit difficult as I know exactly jack-squat about boats. xD Plus, if I could find something remotely 1:10th scale-sized it'd give me another reason to finish that trailer for the Pajero. Hmm... maybe a small speedboat with an outboard motor? @Fuijo: Thanks for the offer! I know both your tanks are hilariously good fun to play with as a pair, and I know you and therefor know they are built well. But like I said above, I'm not sure I'd want to have a tank as an object, as a model. As a play-thing (especially with you around running the other one) sure, but as a thing to look at? Hmm... And the same could be said about the boats. Tempting, but then I'd rather find something 1:10th scale to add play to the cars. Or rather, the Pajero. I am overthinking this, aren't I? I'll have a sit-down at my desk at some point, lay out the half-finished trailer, give that thing some attention.
  17. So I sold a few cars. Notably, the Street Scorcher is getting re-homed at my dad's house. He loves the thing, and has plans for it to actually be a runner. (As far as I gathered at least. Not too sure what's happening with it.) I wasn't using it at all, so it getting some usage and a good home is nice. I also sold the TA03F David Jun to a Belgian who built a gorgeous shelf queen out of it, which is probably a better existence than it too sitting on my shelf with a body half-on, half-off of it. I also sold a Mini Z to a man who had always wanted one since childhood and was over the moon with it, and Froggy got re-homed to another person who runs DT03s in a local cup. That leaves me with: - The Clod - The TRF - The TT01DRE-thing - Basher - The Pajero - and of course my M02 Alpine A110. And here's a video I took this spring of them all together. At this point the Mini-Z, Froggy, and the TA03F were already re-homed. Anyway, this means I now have some extra electronics, namely three receivers, two steering servos and an assortment of motors and ESCs. And it'd be a shame to let them go to waste, right...? The issue is that my local track has closed, and has been for a while now. There's an outdoor track somewhat nearby (where I did the endurance race last year), but I just.... I dunno.... I don't like the track much, and I can't seem to gel with the people there. Is that my fault? Possibly. I am mentally not exactly in a great place right now, with the whole COVID-19 running around, my work is still ever uncertain. My wife's job has basically ceased to be per 1st of August, and we're both suffering from cabin fever. I can go to the outdoor track. It's recently re-opened, and there's a couple of races. The issue is, however, that every time I go there it either rains, or it's too hot, or I'm the only guy there running laps by myself. Which is fine for a bit, but I crave the social thing too. I've been looking at other tracks (there's one about an hour away in Utrecht), but they don't do open track days due to Covid, and the races are member-only. So I've been thinking. I have a bit of money in my fun-bin. (that envelop of cash that you hoard when you sell stuff) I miss building stuff, and I'd like to find something that's fun to build, fairly realistic, and mostly; is fun to run by itself. I have a couple of nicely paved parking lots and basketball courts nearby, aswel as a in-land beach. The forest is rather closeby too, where I regularly take the Pajero out for 2+ hour walks. I've been looking at: - A WPL B36KM. They're inexpensive, look like fun builds, and can be detailed and scratch-built to amazing levels. Plus, they ooze cold-war cool. - A Traxxas TRX4. I know, wrong T-word, but it's everything I like about the Pajero, but in a more capable package. The downside is that they come with fairly meh body shells, and while the aftermarket for them is HUGE there's nothing that really strikes my fancy. Plus, the kits aren't great builds from what I've heard. - A Tamiya Cascadia or King Hauler. Yes, the good ol' Tamiya semi-truck rabbit hole. You start out with just a basic runner, and three months later you're €1000+ euro down the hole and you still need a trailer. And possbly another truck. Which needs its own trailer, obviously. They seem like REALLY good builds, can be made to look amazing, but are limited in terms of where you can run them. And are they fun to run solo? Hmmm... They do seem like they could take weeks of building, which is something my brain needs right now. - A Tamiya Tank. Any one will do. I'm not much into the whole military thing, but the tanks seem like good builds, and unlike the semi trucks I can take those into the local forest and do some... scouting there. But are they really decent outdoor runners? And they feel like they're the same kind of money pit that the semi trucks are. I've looked into the infra-red battle system, but that would require a second tank (and someone to drive that tank...*sob*) What would you guys do? Brave the other track, try to get along with the people there and pick up racing outdoors instead of on carpet? Become a scale trucker (*honk honk*)? Get a TRX4 and finally do make it over that one difficult trail where the Pajero keeps getting stuck? Take the TRF apart, clean everything even though it literally hasn't moved since the last time I cleaned it, and put it back together?
  18. I did it once. I had a broken balance lead inside the hard case. I pried it open using plastic tools, soldered it back on outside with my hand at the ready to chuck it at the first sign of trouble, and got the job done. Nerve wrecking, though if you know what you're doing not all that scary.
  19. Nope, that's a bone-stock 419. @qatmix's TRF419 from his review of it, to be exact.
  20. So do I still use this thing? Yes, I certainly do! We've recently 'discovered' a bunch of new trails in our nearby forest, and we've been taking full advantage of it. It's a good mix of what you see above combined with sandy trails, and the occasional climbing over tree roots and such. A full walk is usually about 2+ hours, and I bring along 2 3000mAh NiMH batteries. One lasts for about an hour and a half, and then I swap to the other which lasts me the rest of the walk. Afterwards, the car is just a bit dusty: Of course this is easily cleaned off. So; things I've changed over the years from stock: - Steel pinion - New gear set as the fine sand ruined the old gear set over time - Junfac 4-link set. This alone made SO MUCH difference in the car! - New chassis. Not because I broke the old one, but a battery exploded during a run and melt it. - Tie-wrap around the stock servo saver. Low-budget way to make sure the saver doesn't snap and leave me stranded. - Different tires. I hate their looks, but love the performance. Torn!
  21. Here's how I used a bunch of spacers to make my rear axle all nice and smooth. For the record, I use my CC01 as a trail rig, taking it along with me on 2 hour+ long walks, and I take 2 3000mAh NiMH packs with me. I usually end up swapping them about 90 minutes in, and the remainder of the second battery lasts the rest of the walk. The 55t motor hardly uses any power! Also, my front diff is fully unlocked, and the rear diff is fully locked. While it's gotten stuck once or twice with all wheels losing traction I've yet to come across a situation (on normal trail driving, think 1:1 offroading instead of rock crawling) where the Paj gets stuck due to wheels unloading.
  22. If you look at the way modern TC arms are setup then they're the same, with a ball socket at the top and a kingpin at the bottom. My TRF419 is a great example, there's absolutely 0 fore-aft play in the front or rear hubs when shimmed correctly. And they're plastic, not alu.
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