GooneyBird

So a Full-Option M4 Sherman, sans radio, fell into my lap. (Long story) I've never owned a tank before, so I have no idea what I'm doing here or getting myself into, but it seemed like a fun vehicle to have in the fleet. I've driven (commandeered?) both of @Fuijo's tanks before, and had a blast with them just rolling over stuff and taking fake-shots at each-other, so yeah, I decided to take the plunge. It even came with a box, the manual, the whole nine yards! It was disassembled in three main components (hull, upper body, turret) to fit in the box, but all were quickly assembled. I ordered a 4 channel radio from the Far East, and when that arrived I assembled the whole thing and gave it a rundown. (yeah, I'm a Linux nerd) https://youtu.be/3v5KaDRBpIo Anyway, it runs just fine after I fiddled with the radio and the MFC. Usually I'm pretty good with electronics, but having a radio with no instructions to speak of, combined with an ESC/MFC/Fancy Box that I'm not too familiar with at the same time is daunting. It works now though, and with clever usage of dual rates I never have to touch the trims again. I'll make a follow-up post detailing what I've done to get it to work. Now what, though. I like the thing as a RC vehicle. It's great fun to roll around the living room and... ... terrorize the cats. But as an object, I feel ambivalent. As an RC vehicle I can appreciate the effort that went into making it as realistic as possible, and it's technically Tamiya's first RC vehicle so it has that going for it. Also, the electronics on it are so unbelievably advanced for...what, mid 1990s? Using a camera flash module as the light effect for the cannon (not to be confused with a camera flash for a Canon) is quite clever usage of existing tech for something new. However, I'm not much into real-life tanks. Or anything war-related for that matter. I can appreciate the intricacies of planing and what it does on a social and economical scale (I'm Dutch. Hellooo Marshall-plan and cultural imperialism!), and can consider myself somewhat of a history buff. badword, I wrote a whole novel set in the East-Berlin of 1989, and got complimented on it by people actually from the GDR on capturing the spirit of their Heimat. But the actual, physical act of going out and harming people? No, not really my thing. But, it's a model of a tank sitting pretty on my shelf regardless. So I've decided to take it on a slightly different route. And no, I'm not going to paint it metallic purple and put flames on it, tempting as though that sometimes can be. My job sometimes takes me to and through Arnhem, of Operation Market Garden-fame. Sure, it's just another city today, but there are still traces of where the liberation started for 'us' all around. One of them is a Sherman M4 parked in a WW2 museum that I regularly drive past. What I'm going to do is model the tank as it looked when it rolled through the streets of Arnhem. What that entails, from easy to difficult: - Paint a name on it, preferably badly with visible (1:16th scale) brush strokes and all. I'm open for suggestions. Keep it family-friendly. xD - Find a scale lady and drape her across the tank in the best of "hello boys.."-fashion -... and maybe add a couple of soldiers ogling aformentioned lovely gal. - Improvised flag post or something on the back, so I can stick the Dutch (or whatever's historically accurate) flag on the back - Maybe weather/wash it a bit? I mean, those tanks did do a lot of traveling before arriving in The Netherlands... - Find a TINY TINY MP3 player or Bluetooth speaker so I can play the sounds of crowds cheering and/or the Dutch anthem as it rolls around. Regarding the last item on the list: I've thought about tapping into the wiring for the speaker playing the engine sounds. It's a good speaker, loud as heck, and already on the tank. However, the wiring is old, and not easily replaced in case something goes wrong. So, separate speaker. Either an MP3 player with its own speaker, or a Bluetooth speaker running from my phone. Space is at a premium, so it'd have to be quite small, or modular so I can start hiding it in leftover spaces. And preferably battery powered. I've got two ports free on the (6 channel) receiver, but I don't know how much BEC overhead the DMD-05 has to play with. Having it be a standalone system means I can remove it in case I ever decide... I dunno, to indeed paint it metallic purple with flames. Anyway, not sure if this is going to be something that's going to be finished in two weeks, but watch this space for updates.

I call mine Steve.

Welcome to the rabbit hole of the Chinese rebranding stuff. I'm actually convinced there's, like, maybe three factories actually producing stuff, and the rest just sticks labels on things and prints boxes.

There are a couple of markets Tamiya currently has no stake in. Some might work for them, some not at all. Firstly; there's the basher market. Like it or not, but RC cars sell to kids who wanna 'go fast' and jump over stuff. Plus, never underestimate the wallets of the XTREME-sportz dudes who want the baddest-looking toy on the market. I'm talking the same people who buy powerboats and jet skis. Currently ARRMA and Traxxas have that market. Tamiya could butt in. How? By building something that - is RTR, and built well out of the box. So, ball bearings, oil shocks, metal drive train, universals on all four corners. - Has electronics that are 3S-capable. Yes, I know.. but it's what the market wants these days. I'm sure they've still got the molds from the TRF801XT kicking around. Take the suspension of that thing, and combine it with a new base chassis that can hold a 550 or 750-sized brushless motor, 3S-battery, and a waterproof receiver box. Also, mold everything out of that tough-yet-flexible plastic that RPM uses. Shouldn't be too hard to reverse-engineer. Then take the body from either the Rock Sock...thing..., or the actual TRF801XT body, pre-paint it in some multi-color vomit color scheme, stick some dark chrome wheels and 2.2 allroad tires on there and watch the money roll in. What does this thing bring to the table that something like a E-Revo or Kraton can't? Not much, but undercut the pricing slightly and you've got a seller. For the nostalgia factor you could smash a lexan squarebody Chevy on there and call it Son of Clod or something. Then there's the scaler market. I personally can't believe that the best Tamiya has come up with is the CC02. Look at what the aftermarket does with TLT1 axles! Or Clod-axles for that matter! Alright, here's my plan; keep the CC02 going, and put as many beautiful hard bodies on as you can. Restart the line that made the Toyota Tundra, F350, and Hilux, and find a way to adapt them to the CC02. (And change the F350 to an F250. I've never seen a short-cab, long-bed Single Rear Wheel F350...) For the American market you can 100% repop the Clod-body and put that on there too. (Blackfoot body? Would that fit?) Then see if you can do a pretty Land Rover Discovery 1 or 2, maybe a newer Hilux for that Technical/Middle-east look, things like that. Then, as a step up from that, you take the TLT1/High-lift axles and mate them to a bigger chassis. 4-link them, and make a 1:8th-ish scale lexan body on top. Keep the High-lift 3 speed but change the gearing down by a LOT. First gear should be a crawler gear, second gear an inbetween, and third gear should barely do stock-TT-speeds. For bonus points see if you can engineer a retrofit kit to remotely lock and unlock the axles. Not sure if it can be done with High-lift axles but it's a fun experiment. Look at a TRX4 or MST CFX-W. And for those looking for a 'real' crawler; they've got the perfect axles sitting RIGHT THERE. Look at the Clod-axles. They've been in production since the late stone age (Like, there are cave drawings of Neanderthalers chasing mammoths with their Clods) so the tooling is more than paid for. Then, 4-link them by basically doing a race-Clod-chassis, and make new gear sets to gear them down. (Bigger spur and smaller pinion. Do Maths so that you can use the original screw holes in the gearbox side). 2.2 wheels on there from above-mentioned TRF801XT-derivative, but this time clad in proper rock-crawley tires. Smash some random body on top, maybe try something outlandish like the Wild One body or something (with full exo cage because why the heck not?). Go mad and make a full 2.2 comp crawler. Then; actual monster trucks. And not of the X-Maxx-y kind (see above for the basher) but a solid-axle truck. Keep making the Clod. I'm serious. Just. Keep. Doing. It. Maybe change the livery once again (Purple Ultra Clod Buster?) and for the love of all things, include bearings. As a hop-up, make a Behind-The-Axle steering set. Do what JConcepts did, but better because you're Tamiya and you can swing that scale advantage when it comes to molding stuff. Also, since you've restarted the line for the F350 (F250, really) and the Hilux, plonk those on top of the Clod chassis with a couple of trick body posts. Call the F350 the Super Juggernaut, the Hilux the Super Bruiser, and the Tundra the Ice Giant (Ice? Tundra? Get it?) and have your marketing department go nuts on liveries. Next to that, make a modern solid-axle truck based around the Juggernaut's axles and a new center gearbox (obviously...). 4-link it, and take a very very good look at an Axial SMT10 or Losi LMT when designing it. Make a few roll cages to fit different bodies, and make a few different bodies to fit it. Of course include a few hard bodies from the NewClod and make a few lexan pickup trucks. Doesn't matter if they're generic bodies, modern day monster trucks aren't exact copies of Dodges/Fords/Chevys anymore either. Make it single motor out of the box, but make a hop-up for dual motors. And for the love of all things plastic, do not make the same mistake as you did with the original Juggernaut and really really make sure the gears can handle more than a pair of silver cans on a NiMH. Make sure it can do at least 2S on a pair of 1800Kvs or something. Moving on to racing: I don't know much about offroad racing, but people generally seem pleased with the TRF201-range. Produce that, and maybe make a few conversion sets like a laydown transmission or a carpet-setup. Basically, a Tamiya XB4 2WD. Then; using as many parts from the TRF201 as you can, make a 4WD version, and a suite of parts to convert one into the other. (IE: start off with a TRF201 2WD, then convert to a 4WD or back again). If you're feeling particularly adventurous you can use the same platform to re-release the Stadium Blitzer Now; onroad. The mid-class TC range is fine, actually. The TA07 and TA08 seem to be the ones to beat in that class, and the FF04 seems to rock pretty hard at the new Fronti-class. But for the love of all things, Keep. Making. Parts. For some reason they've all but stopped production on the FF04 Evo and relevant spare parts. And no-one's going to run a car where you can't get parts for it. Bottom range TCs: The TT02, again, is fine. It's cheap, easy to build and produce, and just keep on churning them out by the dozen. The R and RRs are nice and well-received, and anyone looking for a serious TC can look at the TA or TB-range. Maybe, eventually, make a TT02 Type E with an upper deck, revised plastics for the shock towers (the TT02D-plastics seem to be the golden ticket), and keep churning them out. Also, I'm loving the funky colors. Do more of that. Make every sprue in every color. I want to see purple suspension arms on green tubs with blue hubs and a yellow center shaft. Go full bananas. Bring back the clear cars while you're at it! Top-flite TCs are generally fine too. Make yearly update packages so the owner of a TRF420 '21, can update their car to a TRF420 '22. Go back to the old naming scheme of only increasing the digit when the bulkheads change. (TRF419 to TRF420 was confusing...). Then there's the M-chassis'. The M07 and M08 are fine. More bodies! Listen to the market, occasionally poll the importers in different parts of the world to figure out what people want, and try to license them. I can see the American market wanting things like MX5s, S2000s and MR2s, whereas the European market will love (more) old RWD rally cars like the Escort, a Stratos, or similar. Similarly, put a Peug 205 Rallye (the road-going version) on the M07, and for the SWB-fans out there; MG Metro. (who owns the British Leyland license anyway?) Brings me to the bodies; see above for polling importers. You're Tamiya fercryingoutloud, you can license pretty much anything and everything if you desire. Things I think would sell: TCs: Old-school European racing cars. Things like a Sierra Cossie, Opel Manta GSi, Jag XJS... Also, I'm sure the Americans wouldn't mind a couple of cool old muscle cars done right: Fox-body Mustang, F-body Camaro/Firebird, things like that. Maybe a Dodge Charger Shelby GLHS on a LWB M-chassis? Re-release the SN95 Mustang, and do a road-version of the current Mustang next to the GT4 version. Note how I'm not touching the semi-trucks. Those are actually fine as is. Maybe make an MFC04-module where the user can link the thing with their PC, Beier-style, and do their own sound sets? Overall; I'd like to see bearings and oil-shocks become standard across the board. I mean.... come on. I can live with the JIS-screws (they're NOT Philips heads!) but not bushings and pogo-shocks. The TBLE04S finally seems to have decent lipo support, so that's nice. For the bashers you might want to look into making a 1:8th-ish scale 3S capable ESC. Maybe license something from Hobbywing so you don't have to go about reinventing the wheel. Radio's? Never mind that. Put a bottom-range Futuba in the box for the RTR models, maybe strike a deal with them to make a 3 or 4 channel version for the crawlers, and leave it at that. Everyone and their uncle runs their own radio set anyway, and you can't please them all. So yeah, that's my 2 yen on this. Maybe not do all of the above things, but a general move in this direction would be nice.

TT01 or TT01E? (with the top deck) The TT01 had that issue, yeah. They fixed with the Type E, which had a far more solid build to that area (not to mention TA05-inspired steering)

Nice! I like! They look scale enough to work, LED-ready body sets are always a big plus in my book, and it's something uncommon. The cars look to have Traxxas' clipless body system, which is either brilliant (e-Revo, (X)Maxx, 2021 Bronco), or sucks so hard because the slope of the front of the body leaves no room for it to come off (...Rustler 4x4). Time will tell. Couple of hmm-moments though; - No front bumper = massive damage when you hit a curb. Those bodies are going to get WRECKED. - Those staggered wheels look amazing, but how will tire support be in...say...10 years?

You can kinda run silvercans on 3S, but they'll get crazy hot with extended use and/or heavy gearing. The ESC is the limiting factor here. The cheapest 3S-capable ESC I can think of is the Hobbywing QR1060. I have a couple and they're stupid reliable on 2S. Never had one on 3S, but they'll do it according to the spec sheet.

I remember there being a technical change in the SIM spec sheet about 4 years ago.... How old is the old SIM? Also, modern phone =/= smart phone. There are a couple of normal phone models still out there. Nokia makes the 105 and the 110, Alcatel still does them as far as I can remember. Not sure if you can still buy a modern day flip phone, but a non-smart phone is still very much a viable option. PS: I looked into the Nokia 105 professionally, and they seem like decent devices. With Nokia being a subsidiary of HMD Global it was inevitable that they'd move production to China, so don't expect the cockroach-style indestructibility of the 3310 of days yore, but prices are reflected accordingly.

Tamiya plugs are decent when matched to what you're doing with them. I ran them on my old scaler because I was too darn lazy to solder over all the plugs, and they were fine. But then, I was running NiMH packs in that thing, and the 45t motor meant that I got runtimes in the hours, so little current draw. All my other models run Deans, with the exception of my track toy, which has 5mm bullet connectors straight into the pack. I find Deans generally covers what I need, and they're easy enough to work with, small enough to not be in the way too much, and can be had for cheap from the Far East if need be. The track toy, meanwhile, has 5mm bullet connectors because that thing dumps a 5Ah pack in about 10 minutes.

I love how this thread keeps providing helpful information.

It has some great graphics on it, doesn't it? Plus, the technicolor vomit hides any scratches and spots quite well. Almost as if that's intentional.

And through the magic of the internet, parts had arrived! Traxxas parts are actually surprisingly easy to come by, and the cars themselves are quite modular. The Rustler 4x4 shares a common platform/drivetrain with the Slash 4x4, the Hoss, and the Stampede 4x4, so it wasn't too difficult to acquire: A new spur gear A new spur gear holder-thing A slipper clutch rebuild set New bearings for the hubs and the outdrives 4 shock rebuild sets. (Actually, just 2 sets for 4 shocks, but you get the idea) and get the thing back together. I was going to bind it to the same radio as my TRX4, and leave the other radio as a spare or something. I had previously cleaned up the battery tray with a bit of soda, and after a test I found it was in fine functioning condition. Removed the batteries (!), and put it away in the box. The radio for the TRX4 has telemetry. Or rather, a Bluetooth module on the back, along with a 3D-printed phone holder. So I also got a voltage/temperature sensor and RPM sensor for the truck, so I could get live voltage, temperature, RPMs, and speed from the vehicle. After reassembling it, shimming it out to make the drivetrain nice and quiet (I'm still an indoor racer at heart, not gonna lie), I took it out for some fun. Now, keep in mind that I've never had a sensorless brushless vehicle, and my only frame of reference for quickness is my 13.5T sensored touring car. This thing is RAPID! I've only driven it on 2S (because that's all I own), but it's quick! I've yet to do a proper high-speed run with it and get a top speed from it, but from just bashing around on a local skate park and on some roads I'd say it'll hit 55 kph/35 mph. And that's far quicker than anything this size has any right to be. It has a good amount of body roll, pitching up and down with acceleration and braking, and it seems mostly unstoppable/unbreakable. xD Once the RC tracks start opening up again I'll have to take it to an offroad track or something, see what it can do in a controlled environment. And now I desperately need to go clean it again. Dirt magnet this thing is... Also, I've found that these 3 holes in the front of the chassis are a perfect fit for a MyLaps transponder holder. Soo....future track-Rustler coming up?

I'm sitting in the home office/hobby room, pretending to work from home but really watching our two young cats doing...well... cat-things, when the phone rings. *Insert stupid gimmicky ringtone here* " 'ello?" "Hey man, it's [friend I haven't seen in a while]. How you been?" "Decent. Coping with this whole Covid-nonsense. You?" "Same. Hey, you still mess around with those little RC cars? 'cause I need your help with something." "Sure, what's up?" "Well, I got my boy one of them RC cars a few years ago, but it's all kinds of broken and sitting in the back of his closet. With this whole lockdown being a thing for almost a year now we figured we'd try to get it back up and running, but I can't for the life of me figure it out. Wanna come take a look at it?" "Sure! Tell you what, I'll swing by later tonight so we can sit outside for a bit and not have to worry about getting too close indoors, and I'll see what I can do." So I figured it's one of those crappy knockoff things from eBay which has broken a part that is all kinds of unobtainable due to it being aformentioned crappy knockoff eBay thing. Thus, the whole comparing OEMs and brand-names dance would begin and eventually end up concluding that it'd be cheaper just to buy a whole new car from Aliexpress or something. But I was wrong. So wrong. I rolled up to his place later that day, and outside he had the truck, with box and all, and some other odds and ends that came with it. It was not what I had expected. Apparently he had, in a stroke of 'what-could-possibly-go-wrong' bestowed his 6 year old son with a Traxxas Rustler 4x4 VXL. Yeah. I took the thing home, tore it apart and found several things wrong with it. First and foremost, it was disgusting. Sand everywhere, bearings felt gritty, and the spur was toast. I'm guessing the last run was on the beach? The spur gear had a wobble, and looked partially melted. This caused the motor to lock up. Likely due to the... ...slipper clutch being loose. The pads were mostly gone, and I'm surprised it held together to begin with. Scuffs all over the thing. Was to be expected. The lipo was SO FAR out of balance I couldn't save it anymore. It was a 3S pack and the values were something like 1.5, 2.0, 0.9. Gone. Completely flat. Hooked it up to a car light bulb to fully drain it, cut the plug off, soldered the leads together and took it to the recycler. On that note, the AA batteries in the radio had gone sour and leaked. Probably the least of the issues. A bit of soda took care of that. Everything else on the car looked surprisingly decent. Probably had maybe 4-5 packs on it before it blew up and got relegated to the back of the closet. The charger still worked, too. I priced out what needed to get done it get it back up and running from my local hobby store, and shot my friend a phone call back. "Hey man, it's me. I took your car apart and found a bunch of stuff broken on it. In parts you'll need about €X, and that's without a new battery." "Oh. Well, I have batteries here. AA? AAA?" "More like a squarepack 2S lipo." " A wha..? Anyway, I've been thinking it over, and with that price in parts I don't think I'll repair it. Do you want it?" "... err? Yeah, sure. Seems like a fun project for me." "Cool. Tell you what, you give me a fair amount for it that I'll add to the boy's piggy bank for a PS5, and it's yours." So I gave him what I deemed fair for it, plus a bit extra because, hey, PS5s are worthy causes, and ordered the parts I needed (and, y'know, hopups) I now have another Traxxas. This is...worrisome. xD

It actually does matter. One motor spins in reverse. Don't worry if you hook them up incorrectly, as long as you give it a try with all wheels off the floor first it's quite obvious which is going backwards. From memory it's Yellow to Yellow, Blue to Green on the front motor, and Yellow to Green, Blue to Yellow on the rear motor. But! I could be mistaken as I don't have the truck in front of me right now.

@ThunderDragonCy, you're correct in thinking that they won't fit with the stock outdrives. What I did is switch to the 'smaller' style outdrives, in combination with TG10 axles in the rear, and 'normal' universals in the front. If the arms are worth it, that's entirely up to you. They give a couple more options for mounting the lower shock (yay!) and provide the means to install an anti-roll bar (does exactly diddly-squat on a TT IMHO). The real gain lies in the adjustable upper arms, and I'd focus on those over the lower arms. I don't know if aftermarket alu-outdrives will fit. The plastic ones foul quite badly, so they'd have to be a LOT smaller.

I do believe I've pretty much hit peak Clod with this thing. Ever since I installed the JConcepts steering lockout set it's been a completely different truck. It's responsive, doesn't flop all over the place when landing a jump or wheelie, and is just generally a far nicer rig to run. Plus, the crab-walk steering is SO MUCH FUN to play with. Having it on a switch means you can throw it around on the fly. Recent observations: Made a lead to put direct battery voltage on the lights. They ran through the BEC previously, but I noticed with the dual servos the BEC was struggling to keep the lights lit. Will running 6V LEDs on 8.4V explode them? Probably. But I have plently, and I'll get a bigger resistor behind them when they do. For now though, nice and bright. The mirrors look AWESOME. It wheelies on a fresh battery! (Once you get about 10 minutes in it'll only barely pick up the front axle. But on a fresh lipo it'll run the rear bumper into the lawn!) .... but the body is cracking from old age... ...and the wheels are getting more and more yellow. I should probably paint the wheels at some point. The tires glued to them are still good, but the wheels are getting bad. There's a hairline crack developing in one of them. And the body is starting to split right down the middle where the bed meets the body. I've glued it shut again, but at some point this does need attention. Maybe tilt bed, staying in theme with the 1980s Monster Truck-vibe?

It's only been like a month. That's not a bad price, honestly. Is it a Revo 1 or 2(.0)? If an all-out stunt truck is something you desire, I'm sure you can do a whole lot worse than a Revo. Parts supply from Traxxas seems to be spot-on (and you're American so it's probably even better for you!) and they are more than capable enough. They're pure, unashamed bashers. Made to wheelie, jump over improbably large items, and come back asking for more. What they aren't, are racers, anything remotely resembling a scale model of a real thing, or nice tinker objects. You buy them, pull them out of the box, smash some batteries in them, and go. Whereas a solid axle monster truck is way more 'tinkerable'. So what I'm saying is; it's up to you. If I had access to a place to run a Revo (like a skate park, or dirt playground or something), I'd do it. If all you have is your lawn and the beautifully manicured rose garden next to it, maybe not.

Nice to hear you’re dialing in the car! Those TTS are lovely to drive once you’ve got them working right. I miss the track. Everything here is still closed. Seeing your pics makes me hope they’ll allow us in soon. (Also, should I ever make it to the UK I need to grab a race or two of that series. Sounds like fun!)

Well, white doesn’t become anything, it just happens to work as a ground in this situation. Maybe that’s just how your receiver works, maybe it’s common. Never tried it actually. :p The slightly longer version of how a radio works is that it gives pulses of a certain duration, and that tells the servo to move to a certain position. the fact that an LED will light up on the white wire is because inbetween the pulses the white wire is at 0V (neutral), working as a ground to the +5V the receiver sees. The pulses themselves are +5V, and the only reason you’re not shorting stuff out is because the LED itself works as a diode, only letting current pass in one direction but blocking it in the other. I’m not sure what would happen if you plug in an incandescent light bulb the wrong way around, but I can imagine you’d short out your receiver and severely upset your BEC in the ESC. Don’t try that at home I’d say.

A normal servo plug has 3 wires, white for signal, red for 5V, and black for negative. Signal is a pulse, so nothing 'useful', leaving 5V + and -. When you plug in your LEDs, they get 5V through the red and black wire, and thus, will turn on. When you plug them in backwards, they still get 5V through the center red wire, and ground to the signal part of the receiver, which works because that uses 5V as a reference and thus, can act as ground for 'simple' stuff. (That's about the really really short version of it). If you want to turn lights on and off remotely you'll need a separate switch. Our friends in the far east sell one (I have one on the Pajero, which is currently for sale, hint hint wink wink), and I'm sure that you can buy many of those unbranded switches on eBay.

My workhorse of a TT, after surviving 8 hours of gruelling enduro racing.

It's in the diffs. Tight diffs will keep the power going once a wheel lifts. A loose diff will spin away excess power to the airborne wheel, slowing the car down and planting it back on all fours.

Nice! Aren't TTs great fun when raced? Everyone's always so dismissive of them, but they're stupid-reliable, and with proper setup can be great track-day cars. I love mine, and as soon as this stupid lockdown lifts, will absolutely shred some more tires with it.

@Effigy3: the YR set feels solid enough, and from the stock setup pretty much anything is an improvement. The GPM set was fine, right up until the point where it snapped because I kinda overstressed it. I'm willing to bet the stock setup would have failed under the same conditions. Speaking of selling stuff, it's now FOR SALE. Should anyone like this to the point of wanting to own it, now's your chance!

For sale, my CC01 Pajero And she’s off to a new owner! II've owned this thing for 5 years now, and have used it quite a lot on walks all over the local forests. But, it's time to move on, and free up space and money for other things. (RC things, don't worry!) It's in good shape, and the box is sharp with the original shrink wrap protecting the art work. It comes ARTR, all you need to do is add your own 3ch receiver + NiMH pack with Tamiya plug. I'm including the ESC, servo, and LED controller in the sale. Price? I'm thinking €250/ 220 UK Pounds / $300. Or best offer, obviously. I'm open to offers, so shoot me a message. Shipping to most European countries (+UK) is around €30. Contact me for exact shipping rates. The build thread can be found HERE, but it's a little out of date. 49490 Mitsubishi Pajero Metaltop wide Full ball bearings, obviously Steel pinion. Junfac 4-link rear suspension (makes ALL the difference to the handling!) Junfac steel skid plate Yeah Racing steering set (brand new!) Amazon-special 25KG Waterproof steering servo. Works well! Yeah Racing universals, and I removed the steering stops so you get a nice tight turning radius. 55t RC4WD Crawler motor. Epic run times and more than enough torque! Tamiya TT02 receiver box in the rear Hobbywing QR1060WP ESC with custom power lead to the.... ...Tamiya TLU01 LED controller with full lights, yes that includes... ... Loops Model complete light bucket set front and rear. See pictures. Off-brand crawler tires on Tamiya Land Cruiser wheels painted black. Original wheels and tires are included. Custom license plate light. Again, see pictures. Custom 3rd channel switch to turn the lights off and on remotely from a free channel on your radio Custom brass tow hitch receiver. Meant to build a trailer for it, but it never happened so it's never seen any load behind it. Custom license plates. Are glued on with school glue, so should pull right off without damage. Orginal license plates are still on the decal sheet, obviously. Original box with inserts, all the leftover plastic bits, unused decal sheet, and all the header cards of the included hopups A bit of sound deadening on the roof. Is stuck in with dual sided sticky tape, and will easily pull out. (I walk in quiet areas and wanted to muffle the sound a bit) So what are the flaws? Well, the chassis has some usage marks here and there, and the body has a few nicks and scratches from usage. No splits, no cracks, just paint missing here and there. The worst one is on the door. See pictures below.