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GooneyBird

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Everything posted by GooneyBird

  1. If you're looking to replace a saddle pack (I think that's what they're called?) I've seen a few local racers take two 1S lipos and string them together to make 1 2S lipo saddle pack.
  2. M03: a decent set of tires, and if you race it, possibly a limited slip diff. CC01: The GPM steering kit, decent ball cups to eliminate slop from the steering. Both: Drive it until the wheels fall off, and have fun with them.
  3. Difficult to put a value on these things. I don't have the things you're looking for, but I've got a stack of random decals I can send your way. Else....5 euro ex shipping? I honestly don't know what a used and be-holed manual should change hands for.
  4. That's quite a wobble! I had a fairly straight spur on my Pajero (MTW), but I had the white G-parts. Maybe a difference in molds? For the body: My Pajero fit a bit difficult as well, with the body set too far forward. I solved it using some careful Dremeling. Are the front body posts properly aligned? Have you painted it already? Because to me this sounds like a warranty-thing.
  5. that zou echt tof zijn! Danke Schön! Translation: @waterbok and myself were conversing in our native moonspeak language about forging plans to take over the world using a paper airplane, three silver cans and a Traxxas X-Maxx. The plans are quite advanced, but lacking a bit in the financial department.
  6. The M02 Alpine was my first RC car, and since I'm now slowly starting a collection, I would like to have the box and manual as well. Mine got lost somewhere along the way. Let me know if you can help me out!
  7. I tend to buy what will enable me to have the most opportunities to run, be it because they can run where others can't, or because they're in a class I otherwise won't be able to race in. For the indoor carpet I have a 17.5T Touring car and a 21.5T F1 car. For outdoor Tamiya Cup I have a TT01E with the spec motor. For the beach I've got a DT03, and to walk around with in the forests I've got a CC01. Along with that I have an M02 (because it was my first RC car as a kid) I've looked at a Clodbuster, but that would mostly just do the same as the DT03. I've looked at getting a 1/12th, but there's not much racing going on for them around here. I've owned an M05 Pro V2, but sold it ultimately because the class wasn't my cup of tea. (Less 'close racing', more 'destruction derby').
  8. I have an Ikea Expedit next to my workspace. The open squares hold my tools and bits, while on top I have 6 foam blocks holding them up. In the living room there's a small space for my M02 Alpine, CC01 and original Delta Integrale mounted on a (hugely incomplete) TT01. The cars on top of the Expedit tend to be my runners, displayed with their wheels off the ground (or stored airtight and out of the sun somewhere), while the living room is reserved for what my wife calls "the pretty ones". (And yes, that means I have to meticulously clean the CC01 every time it's been outside)
  9. Not per se, but the TT01 does have a buggy equivalent, the DF02. It uses many different parts from the TT01, but the drive line is mostly the same. At the least your ball diffs should swap right over.
  10. You could probably mod a CVA to fit the car, but you'd be left without a roll damper to dampen the side to side movement. The easiest fix is to get part 54331 along with any damper (TRF, normal CVA). This will effectively convert the rear end into a F104X1, along with a roll damper and a different upper deck for more flex. Keep in mind though, if you're just running around the parking lot you're probably fine with a normal F104. Just keep the friction plates nice and clean and make sure you slap on decent tires.
  11. Just woke up, supposed to be at the track 45 minutes away two hours ago. No racing for me today.
  12. Just woke up, supposed to be at the track 45 minutes away two hours ago. No racing for me today.
  13. Yes, up to a point. Softer springs introduce more body roll. Too soft springs and the weight shifts in such a way you actually take away grip, either by going to positive camber on the outside wheel, or by the chassis/body hitting the ground and lifting the car. By the way, you cannot simply replace the friction damper with a normal CVA without getting a different top deck. The one that comes with the entry level F104 doesn't have the required holes in the proper places.
  14. Tamiya F1 cars from the F103 onwards they all become quite interchangeable when it comes to parts. I have an TRF102, and it's basically the front end of an F104 in tougher plastic, with the rear of an F104 Pro V2 with some fancy carbon bits in the middle. This makes the F104 a good platform to start out with, as you can upgrade and modify it as you please. The downside with the lower spec'ed ones is that they come with an unbelievably outdated system for damping; a friction damper. They work, but become dirty rather quickly as the grease attracts dirt. The higher spec'ed cars have a normal touring car style damper with spring, they work far better. I think basically it works out like this: All F103 have a wheelbase of 257mm, same as a touring car F103 - 200mm old F1 car with friction damper plate F103LM - 200mm pan car on F1 rubber F103GT - 190mm 'touring' car on TC rubber F103RM - High-end F1 car with a TRF damper All F104 have a wheelbase of 270mm, making them resemble modern F1s a bit more F104 - 190mm new-style F1 car with a friction damper plate F104 X1 - 190mm, long upper deck with a normal damper and a separate roll damper F104W GP Edition - F103 nose (so 200mm wide), roll damper and TRF damper, medium-length upper deck F04 Pro - Same as GP Edition, but with a 'normal' nose so 190mm wide F104 Pro V2 - Same as Pro, but with two side roll dampers and a different rear pod mounting system TRF101 - F104 Pro V2 rear pod mounting system, 190mm wide, super-exotic Carbon front end and TRF damper TRF101W - Same as TRF101, but with a different (and equally exotic) carbon fiber front end making it 200mm wide TRF102 - Half-T-plate car (T plate does roll, but due to a hinge, no pitch), F104 nose but made out of very stiff GRP. TRF damper but just one roll damper If I left out any other variants, feel free to add them. I think they made the Pros in a number of different color variants. Technically they're the same, but the anodizing isn't blue but some other color
  15. Yeah, I really like it too. It looks sturdy enough, and with such a rounded shape it might prove to roll back on its wheels after a tumble (one of the reasons why Fiat 500s are so popular here). I might get one to play around with.
  16. My gut feeling said it would be too big for a TC chassis, but when you look at the specs of a real one you realize the wheel base is actually spot on 1:10th scale. (257 mm for a stock TT) o.O Wheelbase 101.4 in (2,576 mm) (hatchback) https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Civic_(fifth_generation)
  17. That is essentially how I clean my brushed motors. I run a stock class, with closed end bell motors, so you can't take them apart to clean (or tweak) them. I hold the motor over a trash can or something, and blow a can of brake cleaner through it until the liquid dripping out of it becomes clear. I then water-dip it, running it on two batteries out of an old stick pack for about a minute while fully submerged. Take it out of the dirty water and blow it dry with compressed air. After it's fully dry I put a drop of machine oil (I now use Yeah Racing bearing oil, but have previously used all sorts of light oils) on the bushings at either end and wait for it to soak in. I then mount it back in the car and proceed to carefully not end up in the A-mains as planned.
  18. Isn't it funny how your monster truck has a realistic interior, whereas real monster trucks actually look like giant rc cars with just a guy and a bucket seat on the inside?
  19. DT03s are fairly forgiving when it comes to battery sizes. Their compartment is just a large empty section, and Tamiya expects you to stick some foam in there to fit the chosen battery. I've yet to find one that doesn't fit.
  20. I really enjoy tinkering with them. Sometimes I just sit at my desk for hours on end and look at the way the suspension works, shimming a few components here and there, and then calling a day completely refreshed. At the track I seem to be the local mechanic. More often than not on an evening I only go through 1 or 2 batteries on my own car, and work on other people's jalopies for the rest of the time. I'm not saying I'm really good at it, but years in IT and before that, help desk, have made me quite good at deducting problems, be it with RC cars or computers. When I do get to drive, there's nothing like working on your driving and your setup, eeking out that last tenth of second per lap while changing nothing but the setup of the car and your racing line. I feel like I then do a little justice to the racing heritage of my cars. [floaty mode]Possibly even satisfying whatever soul they may have by letting them do what they're good at, reaching deep within and lighting their racing spirits.[/floaty mode[ Lately I've been messing around with a CC01, and with that car I have great pleasure driving it in the most scale-like way I can, befitting its realism and the fact that it's "A model suitable for radio control" instead of an RC chassis with a body on it that only sorta looks like the real thing. Slowly running it across uneven terrain, watching the suspension compress and extend to dampen the ride, moving in and out of the wheel arches, and even hearing the occasional groan and squeal from the body shifting around on the holders while it slowly flexes to climb over a half-buried tree root or something. With all my cars I also enjoy taking pictures of them in their natural habitat. For the TRFs this is on the track, while the TT is more of a parking lot basher, and the CC literally goes anywhere.
  21. They sure are great devices. I have many OrangeRX receivers in my cars, and so I'm reluctant to get a newer Spektrum radio as they've blocked binding with third party RXs. Got to keep this one running for as long as I can!
  22. Aside from sweltering in the heat, I fixed my radio today. A few weeks ago I dropped it while unpacking my gear, snapping off the antenna right at the base. Ducttape saved the day, but a pretty sight it was not. I got a new antenna from eBay a few days ago, and set about fitting it. As a bonus the antenna seems to be made from a slightly softer and more pliable material than the old one, hopefully granting a longer life with ol' butterfingers here.
  23. Well, that's a bit low, isn't it? A nearby track had an open day. Normally I'm much more of an indoor racer, but I recently rebuilt the TT01E for the next Cup race, and figured I might as well give it a spin. Switched to an old set of slicks I had laying around, and completely forgot that the circumference was a bit less than the normal shoes the TT wears. Five scraping laps later.... Also, I had a blowout. The tires were a bit dry rotted (like I said, carpet racer here) but I figured they'd be fine. They weren't. Had another set with me though, along with a set of the Tamiya Cup control tire, so I was fine, but I've never experienced an actual blowout with an RC car before.
  24. I use orangeRX receivers and there seem to have been many issues binding them to newer Spektrum radios. They have a new one out at HobbyKing which supposedly would bind with them, but that still then involves replacing 6 receivers.
  25. The issue with the gear cases is that the front bumper mounts to it using two simple screws. Any hit will be transfered to those screws, causing them to eventuallly crack the mounting tabs. All M01 and M02s had this problem. My Alpine has a cracked gear case, purely because they're not available for a decent price anymore. Too bad, they make for nice runners, and with a set of sway bars actually handle quite decently despite the somewhat uncommon shock setup.
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