Jump to content

BardsDirge

Members
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About BardsDirge

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    SoCal

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. the entire thing? you may as well buy the kit just for the savings and spare parts. if you really want to pick through the parts list piece by piece just go to kyosho's site and download the instruction manual. the #s are all nicely indexed and drawn. enjoy your build :)
  2. the cap is fake?! the cap is fake. kyosho, you smeg. sorry OP.
  3. the gold is just a scaled up red that adds a top cap. the greater volume and top diaphragm makes tuning more forgiving and proper pressurizing less tedious of a task. the reds look slightly better to me. they're more scale if the anodizing is stripped off and a short spring is used on the rear. other than that, golds are far superior.
  4. you mean, rere reds compared to original gold? or rere compared to rere?
  5. BardsDirge

    Ultima pro tires

    the original ultima wheels are 1.9 diameter. frog/hornet tires are way to tight. the axles are 4mm so you can change the fronts to any rim just by fitting a bearing with an inner diameter off 4mm or change the front axle to 5mm with a CRP kit on ebay.
  6. the gears from a rere ultima, and even rere optima, will fit an original ultima just fine. you need to go all or nothing though as the gears are of different pitch and slightly different diameter.
  7. you never know when you might need a mono-shock chassis for a hardbody project. let the little girl dance. she's no optima mid but she's well balanced and very forgiving.
  8. ...uhmmm... the biggest buggy wheels back then were 1.9" and i believe the raider had smaller rear wheels; even the pro. a full set of ultima re-re front & rear rims and tires will certainly work but tamiya sets will run cheaper and only require a different front bearing to fit. i don't know where 4x11mm are now but we had them back then. tower didn't have them... hmmm... OP, ignore my ***. just get ultima re-re front & rear rims and tires. i'm being stupid. time = $$$ anyway so take the easy route.
  9. outrage is an ultima basically. anything you see people putting on their short ultimas will fit about the same. ...except the cool vintage narrow rail buggy, of course.
  10. it was ahead of it's time really. back then we raced on loose dirt that demanded rear motor and 'longway' batteries for weight transfer. on today's indoor carpet tracks you'll outshine other vintage economy buggies. put kyosho gold shocks, or any modern 4"rear/3"front shocks on her and stiffen up the articulation with ball-end turnbuckles everywhere. ball bearings are all 4x8 & 5x10mm IIRC. i forget the diff size. if the shafts are worn from the previous owner running without bearings you can increase the diameter back up to stock with a drop of super thin super glue.
  11. BardsDirge

    my little mini

    super alta ! my 1st real r/c
  12. it will bother pro racers but it would make an awesome club racer. of course kyosho will ruin that niche by charging to much for it.
  13. how short were the mf-01x chassis that people cobbled together for WW jeeps? they were shorter than the standard 210, i thought...?
  14. i bet this is a preview of how they'll do the Ultima wing as well.
×
×
  • Create New...