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Ray68

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Everything posted by Ray68

  1. Thanks for the input I have ordered 2off 9115264 which are M sprues which means i still need to sort the front number?
  2. Thanks I will have a look but the Pajero sport shell is polycarbonate not hard body. I have looked into this a bit more and I think I now need parts 9115264 x2?
  3. I want to fit the Tamiya Bronco shell to CC01 chassis which was a Pajero Sport do I need to buy any mounting kit sprue? I can't find the Bronco manual online to check what is required. Due to the crisis I am trying to avoid buying things at the moment that aren't essential so hoping the Pajero mounting kit can be utilised? Thanks
  4. Dunks are in Trowbridge Wiltshire and do have a lot of tamiya stock or did when I last went in.
  5. Thanks Doc i can buy set of originals on ebay quite cheap so I thought it would be a better option than the re release solution.
  6. Do the original SRB one piece axles fit in place of the re-release two piece type? i have a Buggy Champ which has wheel plate ,clip and pin missing so I thought the original version might be a better option?
  7. Thanks Kev , max I might look around for some thin m3 nuts as the Tamiya ones are very thin section which is the main thing I need.
  8. I have nearly finished body restoration on Buggy Champ just need screw bag C for fixings does anybody have one to sell? Thanks
  9. In the end I gave up with the TBLE02 and went with Hobbywing 60a BL /sensored and it all worked straight away. Now have two redundant TBLE 02 in the draw .
  10. i found why the gearbox was tight and binding. i had replaced the plastic hex's with some gmp aluminium ones and one had bound tight to the hub whilst it turned it was very stiff. I think the esc may be cooked as its just flashing red and other setting motor mode I can't set throttle high point.
  11. I am going to try a sliver can as I seem to collect them and see how that goes. Question the comment earlier if a silver works fine then the ESC might be cooked?
  12. Thanks for advice I have removed motor from gearbox so I can deal with the motor and gearbox as separate issues. When the throttle is moved the led lights red as you would expect but nothing happens same with reverse motor is dead. I did change the TX throttle position from reverse (correct position) to normal and motor jumped across the bench then esc got hot again and was dead. I will strip the gearcase to check for anything a miss but its so simple I can't see anything wrong.
  13. Hi, I have a Trackstar 13.5 B/L motor fitted into DT03 with a TBLE-02S plus 2S the motor turns for a few seconds then stops the esc gets hot and I think has a thermal shut down. The gearbox with the motor fitted was very noisy to turn which I put down to the motor and the pitch of gears as with motor out it is smooth. is the 13.5BL too much for the TBLE-02 or does it sound like something else? Thanks
  14. I live in West Wiltshire and I have been interested in RC for around 38 years. Sorry if this is a bit of ramble. When I was a teenager my first introduction to RC was when my parents bought me an original Holiday Buggy for my Birthday complete with Acoms and 6v Ni Cd I think the deal price back then was about £75 a Sand Scorcher was too much money and the Holiday Buggy was a stretch for my parents. I run that buggy for years with various homemade modifications as buying parts was not easy as there weren't the suppliers back then ,only GK Models in Bournemouth did a RC catalogue which was mail order if your parents had a credit card which they didn't plus i did not have much pocket money. Whilst still at secondary school I bought a brand new Sand Scorcher for £50 with intention of building then buying radio gear etc,being honest I got frustrated by the design as it was an obsolete model at the time so I never managed to get it running. I remember buying a Renault F2 single seater with 380 motor for £16 from a Melksham Toy Shop which I subsequently sold to a friend. I got into RC again when I was working with reasonable wages and the Manta Ray was launched so I bought one as a deal with the luxury of bearings. I was lucky to find a model shop in Chippenham (saldy gone) which opened up a new world of modifications but at the time still using Ni Cd's. Built Manta Ray with as many Top Force parts as I could then sold it for a Nitro Ten which was noisy and fast. Whilst the Nitro was fun it got boring and lonely just running it on my local school field on my own plus other pressures got in the way. People said I should grow up and stop playing with toy cars! I gave up RC but continued with plastic modelling as I have throughout my life. Years passed when we purchased our own house and got married I bought a M03 Mini Cooper which I ran locally locally with my wife. What really got my interest back was around 2006 when the Dark Impact was launched and Castle Brushless combo started appearing producing rocket speeds compared with what had gone before. Since then I have bought DB01,TA05IFS,CC01,DT02,DT03, Rough Rider plus others Today at nearly 50 I must be the oldest person here but I still enjoy building models and the scale side of things plus trail/rock crawling. I have three boys but none are particularly interested in modelling /RC
  15. Thanks for the replies. I will try the Kimbrough one tonight and see how that one fits. Does anyone know difference between the black and white high torque saver kits if there is any difference?
  16. Hi All, Has anyone managed to use the GPM aluminium servo saver with the remaining standard tamiya saver parts? Whilst the parts fit together the 'spring' is stretched slightly more by the GPM part making the whole assembly have a few degrees movement side to side. I originally thought i could use the GPM part with an old white Tamiya heavy duty saver but it seems the design is not compatible. I also I have a Kimbrough 114 would this be a better option? Many Thanks
  17. i read today somebody else on one of the scale forums had similar problems and they ended up throwing it away. i reset the transmitter to factory defaults but this hasn't helped. Does anybody know how to switch off mixing functions as the manual is not great.
  18. Thanks for the suggestions but the esc (TLBE02) needs configuring which is what highlighted my problems in the first place. Until I sort the esc which to be honest is not responding to any setting procedure I don't think I can establish if the wheel works at all. My thinking is to connect a receiver battery pack to the esc and connect two servos to see if wheel works?
  19. i have tried switching the steering to channel 2 and rx1 and i get the same result as previous. Thanks
  20. Hi All, I thought I had successfully bound the TX to RX with solid green light but the throttle trigger operates the steering servo not the steering wheel? The steering servo is connected into the correct channel 1 slot on RX and esc into channel 2. Any idea why these controls would be reversed? Thanks
  21. I notice there has been some forum activity around the good old DB01 Durga chassis cars and I realised I still have some parts which might be useful for someones's build. Double Slipper 54061 TRF501X Diff Joints x2 51286 Buggy Aeration Dampers 54028 All brand new never opened packaging. PM if you are interested or I will eBay next week.
  22. Thanks for ideas The light buckets could work if I could create a lens for light bucket.
  23. Hi All, Has anybody got an ideas how to add more realistic headlights to the polycarb body shell of the Pajero Rally? I know the moulded body does not lend itself to this sort of detail easily but seeing other people's wonderful work ,I wondered if there were any aftermarket parts I could make/add? The other option would be to buy a Bronco or Landfreeder shell.
  24. Thanks for ideas i will look to some sort of bracket to fix the driver to chassis.
  25. Just finishing a DT03 frog homage build with all the usual hop hops which everyone seems to use but this time I would like to install a driver figure. I have the driver figure sprue from a hornet which I intend to use but other than screwing the drivers helmet to the top of the shell which might stress the thin polycarbonate shell. Is there a better way to mount the driver moulding to the shell? Anyone have any ideas please? Thanks
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