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Everything posted by Gasquatch

  1. See myself getting one of these instead of a tractor. Anyone know if the wheels/tires are 2.2 ?
  2. Looks great! I'm especially envious of your carbon shock towers. I've been looking at other cars for a set to adapt to Blitzer Beetle.
  3. I do like the look of that system. Was also considering a GoolRC setup. I've heard pretty good things about both of those brands, especially for the money. Thanks for the tip!
  4. Some pics from it's first run!! @ThunderDragonCy was correct. It's gonna need a faster motor... But it ran beautifully!
  5. If you're referring to the "green label" motor with the built in fan, I tried one in my Midnight Pumpkin. Seemed a bit quicker than the stock silver can, and better torque. Was very noisy however. A Sport-tuned motor should be faster ( better RPM ), but may produce less torque. Sounds like you already have one, so just run it and have fun. If it puts a smile on your face, it's doing it's job!
  6. Looks great! Some really nice upgrades you've made.
  7. And a few pics with all the lights on... And that, folks, was the first build thread I've done. Thanks for looking!
  8. Now, the moment all three of you have been waiting for! The finished product!
  9. Overview shot of the chassis with the GPM center shaft. Didn't want blue, but seems like the only color it comes in. At least it's a nice blue! And a few shots with the tires and wheels on... Thanks for looking!
  10. Motor install. Using the alloy motor mount from Pargu. Seems like a quality product, well made and has the little tab like the factory one, to prevent it from getting installed backwards. The Pargu mount and Robinson Racing 21t pinion mounted up. I did find out that I had the pinion too far out on the motor shaft. It should protrude just slightly less than the mount posts, otherwise it'll contact the opposite wall and bind.
  11. In the home stretch now! Electronics installed. Have some tidying up to do with the wiring yet. Next, installed the GPM steering rack. The GPM rack feels pretty good. It came with the bearings for the arms , and feels very smooth and slop free. I did have to run a 5mm longer screw on the side that attaches to the servo however, to keep it tight and bind-free.
  12. Built up the shocks using the kit 400cst oil and some Associated Green Slime on the o-rings. Going with the kit springs until I get some driving in and see if changes are necessary. I've never been a fan of the clamp-type pre-load collar, so I added some of the clip-on style I found in my spares.
  13. I took some of your advice here and picked up a 21t Robinson Racing steel pinion. I has originally gotten a 18t, thinking I'd need to gear down for the more powerful brushless motor. Again, I will probably pick-up a 13.5t or even a 10.5t brushless to run in this and the RC-10T3. Thanks for the heads up!
  14. Close up of the GPM alloy front knuckle. I went with silver instead of blue, so it left more paint options open for other bodies. And a few pics of the front assembly... Thanks for looking!
  15. I was finally able to make some progress on my build. Installed the front diff. After this pic was taken, I decided to open both diffs back up. I cleaned out the Tamiya grease and regreased them with Lucas Red N' Tacky to get a little limited-slip feel. We'll see how it drives once I eventually finish this thing.
  16. Glued up some new tires and wheels! These for my Blitzer Beetle project.. Pro-Line Trencher 2.2 on some JConcepts Tense wheels. These took a lot of fussing to get seated and glued right. I think the wheel may be designed for JConcepts own line of tires, they had a very shallow inner bead rib the Trenchers didn't like. And these for the RC-10T3 I'm fiddling with... Pro-Line Gladiator on HPI Split-Five wheels. These went together very easily. I'm converting both trucks to 12mm hex front axles
  17. Managed to get front diff built today. Like the rear, I used the factory screws instead of the stainless steel. Hoping to get the front gearbox assembly done tomorrow!
  18. I'll be using a Speed Passion 17.5T MMM that I share with my other cars. It's a great motor, will wheelie my Blitzer Beetle , and is borderline ridiculous in the Midnight Pumpkin. I may eventually source a 13.5T to use in this and the RC10T3 I'm refurbing. I've gotten to be a little conservative with motor power. I got tired of replacing parts every time my TMAXX whacked something.
  19. Ugh. Somewhere in this house is an actual camera. I'm sure I've seen it. Somewhere...
  20. Found a little time tonight to work on the buggy. Got the rear section assembled. I recall reading that the last Manta Rays had driveshafts with plastic at the ends. This one has full metal shafts! Looks like the front assembly is next on the agenda.
  21. I ordered a 3mm thread forming tap to make it easier to install the stainless steel machine screws from RCScrewz. If you use this method, lightly grease the tap. For reasons you'll see in a bit... Diff installed with rubber shielded bearings from Fast Eddie's. Alloy gears begone! Tamiya Touring & Rally car gears in place. You can also see the GPM aluminum driveshaft cup behind the spur gear. Top cover bolted down. That lower right screw doesn't look stainless steel does it?? Remember what I said about greasing the tap? I forgot until it generated enough heat to pull the threads out when I started to remove it. Fortunately, I found a suitable replacement screw to through-bolt the hole with a locknut. Other builds of this chassis and it's siblings say this is worth doing anyways, to help prevent the cover from lifting under power. More on the way when I can get some time!
  22. Building starts with assembling the rear differential. I used a cotton swab to spread the grease around the gears. I also used the factory steel screws here instead of the stainless steel from my RCScrewz kit. Here it is buttoned up for installation.
  23. I got this for my birthday in May, but I was waiting for my upgrades to get here. Everything is finally here, so let's get started!
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