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About TurnipJF

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  1. Aye, those will fit fine. You'll want to build the rears with short eyelets and possibly both internal spacers to get the length down a bit, but all the parts you need come in the set. You might also consider some really cheap Chinese alloy ones and a set of Tamiya o-rings to stop them leaking around the shafts. That is the route I went with mine.
  2. To my eye, now that you have switched from red to grey dampers, you need the brightly coloured wheels to brighten things up a bit. They also seem to tie in nicely with the orange on the decals, as least on camera. How close is the colour match to the naked eye?
  3. So far, just a sprayed coat of primer and a brushed coat of "flesh tone" acrylic. Not sure which morgue occupant they used as inspiration when concocting their "flesh tone" paint!
  4. Made a start on my Blitzer Blackfoot driver figure's face by trying to give him a vaguely human skin tone. I think he looks ill... Jaundice maybe?
  5. I'll take some more pics and include a side-on one. In terms of arches, the rear axle is centered on the rear arch, the front one is well towards the front of the arch, kinda like this fullsize example: I took it out for a run around the Postal Racing track before the body was done, but I haven't taken it out since then, and I told myself that it will only get its first proper offroad run when it is fully complete. I am using this as incentive to get myself to finish the driver figure.
  6. It looks like adjusting the camber has sorted the clearance issue. At full lock, the tyre clears the end of the bumper. Not by much, but it clears: The chassis looks a little better too IMO, with shiny metal adjustable upper links rather than fixed plastic ones: There was nothing wrong with the camber at the rear, but it got adjustable links too, purely for aesthetics: I think the reduced camber improves the looks too, making it appear more monster-truck-ish and less like a failed JDM wannabe: The eagle-eyed amongst you will have noticed by now that the adjustable upper links are not of the turnbuckle type. This is because I have two DT-02 buggies, one of which received a turnbuckle upgrade not too long ago, and has been receiving envious glances from its non-turnbuckle-equipped sibling ever since. To prevent squabbling, I fitted the turnbuckles to the second DT-02, so now they each have a set. Thus, with one purchase, I have two upgraded vehicles:
  7. When planning a build and considering upgrades, my approach is to start with the "Big 3" - oil shocks, bearings and a steel pinion, unless already supplied with the kit. Next is to research any known issues with the model and their best solutions, such as the MIP ball diff for the ORV, the metal A5 part brace for the Thundershot, etc. I also look into upgrades considered significantly beneficial to performance, such as high-speed gear sets, steering rack improvements and such. I then source these and include them during the initial build.
  8. Things are coming together! The body has been polished, stickered and assembled: I like its stance: However putting the body together and placing it on the chassis revealed a potential issue. I didn't have the front grille/bumper moulding installed when checking clearances, and with it in place, there isn't a massive amount of clearance between the tyre and the end of the bumper. When turning, the tyre hits the bumper end before reaching full steering throw: This may not be an issue as I usually turn down the steering rate on my models, so I may not need full steering throw anyway. However if it is, I may need to reconsider my wheel/tyre choice. There is something else I can try first though. In stock form, there is a lot of camber on the front wheels: If I fit a DT-02 turnbuckle set, I ought to be able to dial some of this out, setting the wheels more upright and increasing the clearance between the bumper and tyre. I'm quite sure I don't need this much camber!
  9. Sounds like you are on the right path. None of the options you have on the table are bad ones. 👍
  10. I have one of these in my fleet, and it is certainly eye-catching, be it on the shelf or on the track. The bodyshell is really difficult to do well though, and having succeeded in finishing mine without any glaring errors, I am very reluctant to give it the beans in case I damage it. However since the body on yours is already less than perfect, you probably won't have this issue. Unless you are sure you won't be getting any fun out of running it, I'd say finish it, run it, enjoy it, and maybe get a second bodyset that you can finish to a pristine standard and use for shelf display.
  11. The Blackfoot 3 is based on the WT-01 chassis, as is the Blackfoot Xtreme. The Blackfoot 2016 is based on the ORV chassis. There has yet to be a WR-01 Blackfoot officially released, but you can turn a WT-01 into a WR-01 by adding a front motor, gearbox and drivetrain to make your own. The WT-01 and WR-01 are identical bar the absence/presence of the front motor, gearbox and drivetrain, and both can be set up with 4- wheel steering really easily too. (Okay, yes, the front bumpers are also different...) I have both in my fleet, so I think I am qualified to say that all else being equal, the WT-01 is the better performer. It is wider and longer than the ORV, giving it greater stability, which means you can set the ride height to be taller without it falling over as easily as the ORV. The WT-01's lower centre of gravity thanks to the lower motor position also helps with this. It is also tougher and easier/cheaper to maintain as it shares a lot of parts with other chassis. This also makes it easier to hop up. Don't get me wrong - I like my ORV for its classic status and interesting period engineering - but if I was wanting to drive fast and trouble-free for extended periods over rough terrain, I would choose my WT-01 over it every time. (Actually if it was just performance I was after, I would choose my 10.5t brushless DT-03T Aqroshot on Mad Bull wheels and Heavy Dump tyres over both of them. The combination of light weight, generous contact patch and abundant power allows it to skim over the top of long grass with ease, and the soft spike tyres grip well even if the grass is wet. The WT-01 beats it in terms of toughness though.) P.S. Sorry I haven't posted ground clearance measurements yet. Got home late to a sleeping family, who would be woken up if I went clattering around in the hobby room at this hour. I'll try again tomorrow after work.
  12. I have a couple of cars at home that work well on terrain such as yours. I shall measure the ground clearances this evening and post them up here.
  13. I reckon the shocks are sorted. After doing the mods described earlier, I gave them a good workout on rough ground fitted to my Twin Detonator. Afterwards there was no visible oil leakage, but it was clear from how they felt that air had mixed with the oil. I let them settle overnight, topped them up again and bled them, then sent them out for another off-road workout. This time they came back just fine - no visible oil leakage and no bubbly feel. I reckon that I simply hadn't allowed enough time initially for the oil to displace all the air around my rolled up foam strips. I will continue to run them and see how they hold up long-term. For now though, I am happy to consider the experiment a success. These shocks can be made to work if one replaces the o-rings and makes provision for volume compensation, and an effective way of achieving the latter is with closed-cell foam in the piggyback reservoirs. 👍
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