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TurnipJF

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About TurnipJF

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  1. Today's arrival, a nice shiny new front bumper for my Thundershot: When I did the restomod on mine, I was able to replace or refurbish all of the parts to my satisfaction, with the exception of the bumper which was too worn for successful refurbishment and too expensive for replacement. I did what I could with it, but it remained the only somewhat tatty part on an otherwise pristine car. However since the Terra Scorcher re-release, the part is once again available at a decent price, so now my Thundershot will be exactly how I want it to be. 😀
  2. Hello and welcome to the club! Everyone will have different views regarding the ideal way to configure any particular model. Here are my opinions: 1. The M-06 is a capable chassis with a robust drivetrain, so there is no need to hold back on the power. I find my M-06 easily handles a 13.5t brushless motor with no undue wear or nasty handling vices, and is loads of fun to drive! 2. A 20T pinion in steel is a good bet for reliability's sake. 3. I find the chassis is nicely balanced without any anti-roll bars. 4. It will be different to anything in your fleet so far, with a tendency towards oversteer, and will need a different driving style, light on the brakes since they act only on the rear wheels. However as far as RWD chassis go, it is a pretty forgiving one and is unlikely to give you too steep a learning curve. 5. I use Tamiya Mini CVAs on mine, 3-hole pistons up front, 2-hole pistons at the back, Tamiya soft damper oil. I have the Renault Alpine bodyshell on mine, so I have set it up with a tad more ground clearance than stock as befitting its iconic rally status. 6. I find that Tamiya's M-size rally blocks are a great fit for this chassis, broadening your choice of potential running areas. 7. The stock steering isn't terrible, but the Yeah Racing set is stronger and less sloppy. I run it on mine and it works really well. 8. I agree regarding the AW grease in the diff. Good shout! Here is mine next to its FWD M-05 sibling:
  3. I use Super Mini CVAs on mine, but pretty much any 50mm shock set will fit.
  4. I suppose another thing to consider is how they would go with your future bodyshell. Of your shortlisted shell options, which is your favourite?
  5. Them front ones look good! Should give you more terrain options too with those knobbly tyres.
  6. Now it's the time! Why not dust it off and join us in the postal race for a bit of fun?
  7. I would go for the spiked Monster Beetle tyres. They grip well on grass.
  8. Bearings, oil shocks and a steel pinion are good basic hop-ups, as well as a metal motor mount if 13.5t brushless is on the cards. A ballraced alloy steering rack is also a good idea as while the stock plastic one isn't terrible, it is a bit weak and floppy. As for the price differences, I'm guessing it has to do with licensing fees for the different bodies, as mechanically they are the same.
  9. Converting a QD to use hobby-grade electronics is a worthwhile project for an adult modeller looking for something different, and can be very satisfying, but if the end goal is to get a tough and capable runner for a youngster, you might be better off with your original plan to sell the QD and get a hobby-grade Pumpkin. While the QD models are quite tough and capable, their smaller size means that they aren't as good offroad as their larger non-QD brethren, and spare parts/hop-ups are easier to find for the hobby-grade models too.
  10. The high torque servo saver fits a wide range of Tamiya models. It would be a worthwhile upgrade for your Manta Ray, as long as your steering servo can handle it. If the servo itself is a basic model with plastic gears, you run the risk of stripping it. However if you are running a metal geared servo, go for it! As for other upgrades, the alloy ballraced steering rack reduces slop, and turnbuckle tierods/track rods improve adjustability, but neither really offer enhanced durability, which I'm guessing is what you are looking for at the moment.
  11. Earlier today I had a go at recording a lap total. Not going to say what I was driving or how many I got, but I will say that even though I didn't get above half throttle, it was fun to watch the car hustling around the tight little course, making very realistic tyre squealing sounds when cornering...😁
  12. Earlier I received notification from @netsmithUK that he is willing to donate a year's Tamiyaclub subscription to whoever wins the car, along with a Tamiyaclub bumper sticker and stuff! Thanks very much Mr Netsmith! This will make the car even more desirable, and hopefully raise even more money for the mogs!
  13. Update time! The livery is finished, which means that the car is ready for donation. I have been in touch with Cats Protection, who say they are going to organise a bit of a social media campaign around the project in order to help maximise its fundraising potential. As soon as this goes live, I'll post a link here.
  14. The BEC slot is just a power port. It doesn't give out any signal data. For the ESC to work, it needs a signal, so has to be plugged into one of the numbered channel slots. This provides a two-way link. The ESC gives the receiver power, and in return gets a signal to tell it what to do. As for colours, I'd vote for black and gold, maybe with some JPS decals!
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