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About TurnipJF

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    Lincolnshire, UK

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  1. I got them from a Far Eastern seller on EBay. They are the steel GPM ones, which seem to be rated a lot higher than their aluminium equivalents from the reviews I've seen.
  2. The TL-01 is notoriously narrow for what is nominally a "190mm" touring chassis. TG10 axles and chunky 10mm hexes and/or wide-offset wheels can get you close, but then you start running into scrub issues up front, as the kingpins end up well inboard of the contact patch centres. IMO, it is best to either go with a long-arm conversion (either Tamiya LA original or Yeah Racing aftermarket) or pick one of Tamiya's similarly too-narrow bodyshells which suit it in its natural state. The older Subaru rally shells come to mind as suitable options.
  3. The short, tight layouts typical of postal racing tracks are more demanding than most, as you are typically either hard on the throttle or hard on the brakes. This leads to higher motor temps than you might be used to on longer layouts or when out bashing when loads on the motor are less severe.
  4. The project is pretty much complete. Thanks to everyone who provided input. This is how it turned out: In the end, these are the hop-ups I decided on: Steel pinion Steel propshafts Steel suspension links Alloy motor mount bridge Alloy heatsink Alloy wheel hexes 6mm offset wheels Rubberier tyres Sealed bearings 35t motor Yeah Racing diff guards (still on their way) I also swapped the electronics around compared to the manual's way of fitting them as it worked better for the servo cable routing, and attached the rear bulkhead with screws for rigidity rather than having it unclippable for rear battery access as I would always take the the shell off to access the battery anyway.
  5. I also reached a point where I am happy with with my Defender's marker lights and front indicators. I was not all that impressed with the stock arrangement, which consists of little domes moulded into the grille piece which you are expected to paint to represent lights. My results looked anything but convincing, so I drilled out the domes and replaced them with 5mm domed LEDs. Better, but still not all that great. Today I made up some little 1.5mm bezels for them, which I think finished them off nicely. The bezels could do with being even thinner still for scale fidelity, but with the combination of my eyesight and coordination, this is as thin as they're going to get. 😁
  6. Soldered some motor cables for @Juhunio:
  7. There was one going a while ago - a fun thread in which people would post obscure (and in some cases not so obscure) part photos and challenge others to identify them. However in that scenario, the poster of the photo knew the answer, and the idea was to see if anybody else could get it.
  8. All of the above holds true for a standard TT-02 in my opinion, however if you are lucky enough to be able to start off with a Type S, all it needs is the sloppy steering sorted and you have something that is every bit as good as a TB-03. ( I actually get better times with my TT-02 Type S these days compared to my TB-03, as I can drive it harder without worrying about spares availability, which is always on the back of my mind when driving anything higher end.)
  9. All it needs is one part to get the ball rolling! 👍
  10. What is the distance between the two screw holes on the back of the motor pod? 3cm centre to centre is the spacing between the screw holes that the F103, F104, TRF and the vast majority of aftermarket wings mount to. (And probably F102 wings too, although I don't have one to hand to check.) I'd be very much surprised if the F101 didn't start what seems to have become the standard mount spacing for 1/10 F1 rear wings.
  11. Chinese amps are smaller than the ones we use in the West. 😁
  12. I'll need to double check my build photos to be certain, but I seem to remember using just the V1 spacers inside the shocks.
  13. I believe the bumpers are different too, but they may come with the bodyset.
  14. Correct on all counts.
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