Jump to content

TurnipJF

Members
  • Content Count

    4946
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5654 Excellent

5 Followers

About TurnipJF

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Flysky is a good shout. If you want to use your existing receiver though, you might want to look for one of those 27MHz Finespec transmitters as supplied with XB models. They ought to cost next to nothing. I generally just give them away when they come my way.
  2. As for the upgrades being worthwhile, they all look very pretty, but but I am not convinced that they are all extremely useful. For example, the heatsink is in two parts, a disc that fits between the motor and gearbox, and a set of vanes that clip onto the motor. The former works well, but the latter shorts out most motors other than a silver can or a brushless with the connections on the back plate like a Speed Passion for example. Universals are another questionable one. I am sure that they are are a distinct benefit at the front of a four-wheel drive, but on the rear of a 2-wheel drive, I find their benefit to be minimal, at least in my experience. I see your chassis has plastic dog bones, axles and outdrives, so you might want to simply go for the Sand Viper all-metal dog bone arrangement instead. I would also question the usefulness of a ball diff. I find them fiddly to set, and once you have it at the desired setting, it tends to wonder by itself. These days I run a gear diff filled with a suitable amount of grease, which maintains its settings and requires minimal fiddling. Finally, the hardened turnbuckles with their black steel and blue alloy finish certainly look nice, but the the plainer looking silver DT-02 turnbuckle set works just as well and is both cheaper and easier to source.
  3. In addition to the gubbins you get with a standard Sand Viper, the MS has the following included: ITEM 51205 Front Astral Dish Wheels ITEM 53881 Rear Large Dish Wheels ITEM 53926 DF-03 Aluminum Damper Set ITEM 53863 DT-02 Ball Differential Set ITEM 53791 DF-02 Assembly Universal Shaft ITEM 53831 DT-02 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink Steering Tie-Rod from ITEM 53828 Hard Turnbuckle Shaft from ITEM 53942/53943 ITEM 51000 High Torque Servo Saver (Black) You might also need a few other little fixtures and fittings to add the upper adjustable arms that typically come with a Sand Viper, as I see your chassis has the fixed length ones fitted. No idea about the cost though, I suppose it depends on where you source the above items and how long you are willing to wait for postage.
  4. Anticlockwise it its then. Any input from lap monitor users as to where the start/finish line should be for them to work best?
  5. In the absence of objections or alternative suggestions, I hereby decree the above track to be the layout for Round 11. Race on! This round will run until midnight GMT on Sunday 30 May. Rules as per the first post in this thread, results to please be submitted via Google Forms by following this link: https://forms.gle/1xzhEZAPsWDeez6D8 Hope everyone has fun!! 😀
  6. Slowly reaching completion on the shelf display shell for my Monster Beetle Black Edition. Still need to paint the driver and attach the little separate rear license plate light piece, but today saw the attachment of the license plates themselves and the windscreen wipers.
  7. I agree that Fusion are very pleasant and the discount is nice, but I have yet to order anything from them that has actually been in stock. If I am wanting a part that is not for a long-term project, I prefer to go with Modelsport or Tony's Tamiya Parts.
  8. That looks good - I think the offset makes it more interesting. How about moving the upper and lower markers further up and down respectively, so the numbers on the right are 2m; 1m; 2m?
  9. I quite like the one marked "PARCOURS EN T". Shall we keep it to a 5m by 6m space, or are people happier with a larger track now that coronapocalypse restrictions are not quite as severe?
  10. Another approach is to take a file to the plastic outdrives and remove some of the unnecessary material to make them smaller. Spinning them in a drill while holding the file against them works well to get a balanced result. They are very over engineered, so you can remove a lot of material without risk of weakening them unduly. This is a relatively mild trimming: You can take more off, making them more of a cone shape. You can't see them too well, but that is what I did with the ones on my rally car: They have held up to years of strenuous running with no issues.
  11. The TT-02B isn't hugely impressive in stock form, but it is cheap and has loads of hop-ups available that address most of its shortcomings. If you get a base spec one and fill out the rest of your budget with hop-ups, that might give you what you want?
  12. What I hope it is: a 4WD buggy designed to the same standard as the latest TA, TB and M cars. What I think it is: a light-up Mini 4WD track.
  13. Although full-size aerodynamics don't scale down to one-tenth particularly well, in general, a model of a full-size car with good downforce will produce reasonable downforce itself. So any supercar or or thoroughbred race car should do the trick nicely. For example I know the Honda NSX was a popular race shell not too long ago.
  14. As I understand it, the F&F option is risky for the buyer, but not for the seller. If you are the seller in this instance and the buyer wants to use F&F, I see no reason not to let them. Yes, there is the risk of them using a dodgy card, etc, but this is no different to if they used the non-F&F option for payment.
×
×
  • Create New...