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About TurnipJF

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  1. There appears to be a lot of support for @jupitertwo's track suggestion, which is great as he is the person who has the honour of choosing the track for round 9. What do you say @jupitertwo? Care to make it the official Round 9 layout? Or would you prefer to revisit a previous track?
  2. Anyone is welcome to suggest a track layout. The previous round's winner (in this case @jupitertwo) then chooses one of the designs, or designs his own as he sees fit. Once this choice is made, the next round begins.
  3. Aye, during the summer months, my workmates who are into the hobby and myself often race in the car park after work or over lunch. We also often bring our cars into a lab for electronic repairs, as the pro-grade diagnostic and soldering equipment we have at work is vastly superior to the hobby level stuff we have at home.
  4. @Silver-Can has hit it on the head. Your speed controller needs a sensored motor to work. You could get a sensorless speed controller to work with your new motor, or a sensored motor to work with your existing speed controller. Either would solve your problem.
  5. I put a 54129 spacer between the motor and the gearbox. Not sure if it does anything hugely useful, but the motors stay cool enough to hold after putting a 4000mAh battery through them, so it doesn't do any harm either. Plus, even though it isn't visible when installed, it is blue alloy, and I know it is there, so it makes me happy.
  6. Track suggestion for Round 9: We start on the main straight (A) then head into a right-hander which takes us through the sand dunes (B), where we need to avoid being hit by "Tusken Raiders" with Nerf guns. If a dart hits your car, you don't count that lap. A sharp left followed by a sweeping right leads to a tabletop jump (C) made more challenging by a ring of fire for the cars to jump through. An S-bend takes us to another jump, this time over a crocodile (D). A gentle right-hander takes us to a narrow bridge (E) over a pond infested with sharks (lasers optional). Another right turn and we are back on the main straight!
  7. Which ones are you getting? The Tamiya "sealed" gear diffs as supplied with the TT-02RR, although intended to be filled with oil, lack an O-ring seal on the outdrives and are thus prone to leaking all but the thickest oil. Have you found some better aftermarket options, or a way of improving the Tamiya ones? Or are you just planning on using really thick oil or living with a bit of seepage?
  8. Once you have ballraced it, swapped out the soft alloy pinion for a steel one, and the floppy plastic propshaft for an alloy or carbon one, they are good to go. The rest of the drivetrain is pretty rugged even in stock form.
  9. Another approach to improved acceleration without adding more speed is to switch out the oversize wheels and tyres for standard buggy size ones. This reduces the rollout and doesn't sacrifice a great deal of offroad ability if you go for nice spiky ones.
  10. They are the same shocks, just packaged differently. 50519 comes with springs and more mounting hardware but only two shocks, 53619 comes with no springs and less hardware, but twice as many shocks. You don't need the extra hardware that comes with 50519 for the Overlander, and you can re-use the stock springs, so 53619 would be better value.
  11. Sound interesting, but might be a bit tricky to standardise everyone's animals in order for the contest to be fair. Last thing we want are cries of "They only beat me because their sharks had a lower tooth count than mine!"
  12. This is one of the simplest chassis to twinmotorify - basically, you just buy another gearbox and bolt it on the front in place of the bulkhead which holds the front suspension, add dogbones and drive axles, wire up the motor and you're done. If you compare the manuals for the WT-01 and WR-01, you'll see exactly what bits you need. Mini CVA shocks are a great upgrade, but an even better one is tall shock towers and standard CVAs. I use these shock towers on mine: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GPM-Tamiya-Upgrade-Aluminium-Collars/dp/B07L88PG62/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=wild+dagger&qid=1614637148&sr=8-1 The monster pin spike tyres are the same as the ones used on the Monster Beetle, rear of the Farm King, etc. Here they are: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-Monster-Pin-Spike-Tyres/dp/B07GSYWH3F/ref=sr_1_2?crid=VD7UJ28WGWAO&dchild=1&keywords=tamiya+monster+beetle+tyres&qid=1614637256&quartzVehicle=121-1619&replacementKeywords=tamiya+monster+tyres&sprefix=tamiya+monster+%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-2
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