TurnipJF

PS14 copper looks a bit like rusty metal?

The primary difficulty with converting a four-wheel drive off-road car to an effective and nicely handling 2-wheel drive is that four-wheel drive and 2-wheel drive have quite different requirements in terms of front end kick up. While a four-wheel drive front end is trying to pull the car over obstacles and thus needs less kick-up, a 2-wheel drive is trying to push the front end over obstacles and thus needs more front end kick up. Simply taking the front driveline out of the chassis will not alter the front end kick up.

I have been giving the "strictly (3)80s" class a go with my Grasshopper Black Edition, completely stock apart from bearings. Running it straight after my 4.5t brushless Group C, it feels sooo slooooow!

That it is! How much toe are you running? I have been fiddling with toe settings on mine, and am now at 1 degree toe out. Seems to make the car feel more nimble.

That looks bloomin' marvellous!

Very nice. There is something about a carbon upper deck that really lifts the look of a TT chassis, and I'm sure the added rigidity doesn't hurt either.

Personally I'd try for a slightly longer post. It jiggles around a lot with just the rear posts clipped.

That can indeed be an issue with 5- minute epoxy, but if you go for the 24- hour variety, you won't have any heat issues with the amount needed to fill your front end. I used similar volumes to pot wing spars into model aircraft fuselages with no issues at all.

I'm thinking at least one tribute bodyshell and one way out spaceshippy one, along the lines of the TT-02B Neo Scorcher and Dual Ridge.

Mine runs fine on black plastic CVAs.

With so many liveries trying to look aggressive and edgy, I am quite happy that there is space in the world for one that is fine with just looking different and quirky. I rather like Tamiya's purple-bellied moo-cow Hornet and the only reason I am not planning to get one this time round is because I have one already. 😁

That looks very neat. Are the plastics dyed or painted?

If anyone wants to run a 380 motor in the current round of Racing by Post, please feel free to do so, and make note of your choice when submitting your lap counts. You'll see that the form has a new question - "Which class are you entering?" - with the following options: "Classic RBP" - open to all as per the first post in the RBP thread. "Open 380" - any chassis you like as long as it has a 380-size motor fitted. "Strictly (3)80s" - standard silver can 380 motor with pressed-on pinion, in a chassis with an 80's style solid rear axle/motor pod, and none of these new-fangled 3D printed parts either. If you want to use home-made parts, they have to be made manually like back in the day. If there is enough interest, I'll post separate tables of the 380 class cars as well as including them in the overall results table.

If anyone wants to run a 380 motor and solid axle in the current round of Racing by Post, please feel free to do so, and make note of your choice when submitting your lap counts. You'll see that the form has a new question - "Which class are you entering?" - with the following options: "Classic RBP" - open to all as per the first post in the RBP thread. "Open 380" - any chassis you like as long as it has a 380-size motor fitted. "Strictly (3)80s" - standard silver can 380 motor with pressed-on pinion, in a chassis with an 80's style solid rear axle/motor pod, and none of these new-fangled 3D printed parts either. If you want to use home-made parts, they have to be made manually like back in the day. If there is enough interest, I'll post separate tables of the 380 class cars as well as including them in the overall results table.