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TurnipJF

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  1. It is easy to get confused, but no, having built both cars, I am confident that I am correct on this one. The version II Pro has a carbon chassis and PBLR arrangement at the rear, and enough carbon and alloy hop-ups available to take it to TRF101 level. The Pro II is not just a re-bodied Pro - it has other updates too, most notably a more robust motor pod integral with the T-bar which addresses the most common point of breakage on the original Pro (and standard F104s), but it remains a fibreglass chassis T-bar car which will never be TRF spec unless you replace the whole chassis and pod, at which point I would argue that it is no longer a Pro II.
  2. You can hop up a F104 II Pro to TRF101 spec, and it is a brilliant car in every way. The F104 Pro II uses an entirely different chassis despite the virtually identical name, and while hop-ups won't get you to TRF level, it is a fine club racer out of the box. The latest and greatest is the TRF103, but to be honest, even the venerable F103 is still a contender. The chassis are all very sensitive to driver input, probably more so than any other class, so a good driver can be competitive even with an old box-stock car, and even the latest car with all the latest bells and whistles won't get a poor driver onto the podium.
  3. "SHERP" stickers, roof rack, lights and plates installed, just a few more accessories to add and then I'll call it done. The problem shell continued to look awful even with attempts at weathering to hide the paint issues, so I have given up trying to paint it, and wrapped it in carbon effect vinyl instead: Not ideal as the fake weave is 1:1 scale, but it hides the dodgy paint and also provides some added strength, so is fine for the bashing shell I think.
  4. You ought to be fine with the vehicle in motion. Give it a try and see!
  5. Window and windscreen stickers affixed:
  6. It has taken a while, but the third shell has primer, paint and lacquer on it with no wierd reactions, so is now ready for the next steps being the application of decals and attachment of accessories. Hope to do some work on that front later tonight. The body with the messed up paint chemistry isn't being discarded quite yet. I am thinking of giving it a quick and dirty spray job, hiding as much of the crackling as possible with stickers and weathering, and keeping it for use in situations where damage is all but inevitable.
  7. I like a good bit of screw biting into the shock mount, so with ball collars I use Tamiya 18mm long 3mm self tappers, part number 19805575.
  8. What? You made your own parts?? How dare you!?!! Just joking - we'd love to see what you came up with! 👍
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