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TurnipJF

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  1. Ah, thought you were running brushless. If it is doing this with a brushed motor, it may be the motor itself at fault - possibly a sticky brush. Do you have another one to swap test with perhaps?
  2. I don't see why not. It looks like something has already had a nibble out of the tub edge, so no need to worry about keeping it pristine. You could see how it goes with a Dremel on this tub, and if successful, get another and remove the bits on a mill for a better finish.
  3. It could be that one of your sensor wires isn't making proper contact. Perhaps check that all the contacts in both plugs are fully inserted?
  4. Alturn AAS700STD servos do steering duty on mine. Ballraced, waterproof, affordable and so far trouble-free.
  5. I think Tamiya have realised that few people buy F1s for bashing, so are focusing their development efforts on their TRF F1 line.
  6. "Bluebottle" is a generic term for the unbranded blue-canned sensored brushless motors available from various online sellers, usually around the £25 mark but sometimes for as little as £12. Here is an example: (although this one is rather overpriced - I would shop around) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/540-4-5T-13-5T-Sensored-Brushless-Motor-for-1-10-Scale-Remote-Control-Car/164030764146
  7. Like many Tamiyas, bearings, oil shocks and a steel pinion are pretty much obligatory if you are to enjoy anything approaching the chassis' true potential. If you plan to run it on gravel, rubber-sealed bearings are preferable as they do a better job of keeping out the dirt compared to metal shielded ones. Tyre foams are also highly recommended for offroad use, as without them, dust and small dirt particles get into the tyres through the vent holes in the rims, weighing them down and unbalancing them. The M-05 also benefits from a metal motor mount, ideally with a heatsink attached, as the motor doesn't get a lot of airflow buried in the side of the chassis like it is. Ballraced alloy steering is also worth adding, as the stock plastic rack has a fair amount of slop in it. Yeah Racing make a nice one that is considerably better value than Tamiya's offering.
  8. The G6-01 chassis is a fun one, with a fair few customisation options. One of them is that you can build it with front wheel steering or 4-wheel steering out of the box - all the steering parts are included for both configurations. You can drive this via a second servo on a Y-lead connected to your steering channel, or even better - via a switchable mix on a multi-channel radio. Some (like the Spektrum DX4S I use on mine) have built-in 4WS mixes which make setting this up very easy indeed, but any radio with mixing options ought to be able to do it. The chassis isn't hugely demanding on the servos thanks to the geometry of the linkages, so you don't need anything fancy with heaps of torque. However it is loads of fun in mud and snow, so you may look at getting waterproof ones so your driving opportunities aren't limited by having to keep the electronics dry. Likewise with the ESC - the good ol' 1060 is a good shout if staying with brushed motors, the WP-10BL60 worth a look if going brushless as both are waterproof. Waterproof receivers are not available for all radio brands. I know Spektrum make them, not sure who else does I'm afraid. However it isn't hard to waterproof a receiver yourself, and if you go for Flysky or similar, receivers are almost cheap enough to be considered expendable anyway. Other than that, and the obligatory rubber-sealed bearings, steel pinion and oil shocks, you should be good to go!
  9. Very well put. The Top Force has a very pretty chassis, a distinctive shell and a look all its own, so if you want it to look at as well as use, then go for the Top Force. However if you are after a runner, the Manta Ray doesn't need much in the way of upgrading to keep up with a Top Force, so perhaps this would be a worthwhile route? If nothing else, new plastics are likely to be less brittle than 15 year old ones.
  10. The cheapest option would be to keep the TBLE-02 ESC if you get one with the kit, and obtain a "Bluebottle" 17.5t or 13.5t brushless motor. A slightly more expensive but better-performing option would be to get a 10BL60 ESC to go with the Bluebottle. This has a wider range of adjustment, which can be accessed via a program card or the built-in button.
  11. The letter at the end typically indicates spec level or intended use. RA for rally, S for sport, RRR for really really racy, etc.
  12. Those plastic propshaft pin things didn't inspire me with confidence either when I built my TB-03, so I decided to get the necessary bits to change them, and fit these when they broke. Only thing is, they haven't. Something you might consider though is the alloy K9 part. The stock plastic one is easy to strip, and even with careful use the plastic thread wears out quickly when changing pinions frequently.
  13. Of those options, the most capable is the DB-01, but if the plan is for it to be a shelfer after a bit of running, the Terra Scorcher and Top Force are more ornamental and would probably look better on display.
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