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About TurnipJF

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  1. All you need to convert is a set of normal grippy tyres. All of the other bits that come with the drift version are just as useful on a race car.
  2. As I am discovering with the restoration of my brother-in-law's full-size Mini, there are many different kinds of automotive paints with different chemical compositions, adhesion properties, flex characteristics, etc. I would be very surprised if it was not the case that some automotive paints stick very well polycarbonate, while others flake off almost immediately. It would be a case of experimenting to find the right kind of automotive paint for your purposes. I would perhaps start my search with those formulated for use on bumpers and other plastic mouldings?
  3. The LRP V10s suggested by @BuggyGuy would be a good shout then. Noticeably better quality than the generic ones I suggested earlier, with a sturdier end bell and an overall nicer feel, they wouldn't be out of place on a "special" car.
  4. You can get them with Reedy branding too: https://www.makeitbuildit.co.uk/reedy-radon-2-19t-3-slot-3200kv-brushed-motor-as27427-61504
  5. They make canned bread, so it wouldn't surprise me if they did!
  6. Any one of the generic Chinese 540 brushed motors with the removable endbell and (typically) green anodised brush heatsinks would do the trick. They come branded as anything from Reedy to Yeah Racing Etronix to Surpass to name but a few, and can be had with a plain black can too. Various turn counts are available. They look like this: (same motor, different labels)
  7. I enjoy the variety, and the ability to mate scale bodies with chassis that have the motor and drivetrain in more-or-less the right position. So for me, RWD and FWD M-chassis both have their place. The M-07 is the latest and most competitive offering from Tamiya in the FWD Mini category, and is a great choice if you fancy going racing. However it is only designed to be built in MWB and LWB configurations. You can get aftermarket rear hubs to move the rear wheels further forwards to achieve the SWB M-chassis wheelbase, but this leaves a significant portion of the chassis sticking out the back, interfering with fitting a classic Mini shell for example. I would also describe the gearbox as shielded against dirt ingress rather than sealed, so it is best kept for running on reasonably clean surfaces. If you fancy a FWD Tamiya M-chassis that has a sealed gearbox and the ability to be built as a SWB without aftermarket parts or massive rear overhang @museguy, the M-05 may be a better choice. Typically sold as a kit with a bodyshell and decals, and easier to set up for predictable and consistent handling, it is perhaps not as fast as the M-07, but on anything other than a prepared track, you are unlikely to tell much difference. I have an M-07 in my fleet, but I still enjoy driving my '05. Either way, I'm sure you'll enjoy the little something different that a FWD M-chassis can provide, be it an '05 or '07, or even an '03 if you fancy going a bit old-school.
  8. If you want to adjust toe angle, yes you do need adjustable tie-rods. However toe is used to alter the balance between straight line stability and turn-in. @djmcnz is correct - pulling to one side is unlikely to be solved with adjustable tie-rods, so it might be easier to track down the issue first before doing the tie-rod upgrade. When you do upgrade, which is a good idea I think as toe is still a useful adjustment to be able to make even if it doesn't address this particular issue, a set like the Yeah Racing one would be best. The TT-02B one won't fit as all but one of the turnbuckles will be too long, and due to the upper arm design of the non-S TT-02 suspension, you need model-specific adjustable arms rather than simple turnbuckles to give you adjustable camber.
  9. Glad you like it! It is a custom shell for a GF-01 inspired by a small Russian offroader. More about it here:
  10. Anyone else rocking vinyl wrap on their shell? Why yes indeed!
  11. Back in the very early days of RC drift, one would simply lock both diffs. No need for a 1-way.
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