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TurnipJF

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Posts posted by TurnipJF

  5. Posted

    The only incomplete set that I would really like to complete in the short to medium term is my selection of WR/WT/G6/GF chassis, which I consider to be one big family of trucks that is only lacking a GF-02 to round it off.

    Apart from wanting it to complete the set as it were, I also think it would make a fantastic base for a racing teapot in four-wheel steering configuration.

    • Like 3

  9. Posted

    12 hours ago, skom25 said:

    Central shaft was obligatory, because I damaged it badly in TT-02. Rock started to grind it during run. Even if we skip this, for some reason it was bent. Probably it was another victim of TT-02B crash, but was still fine enough to use it in TT-02.

    In a hard impact, the chassis can flex enough to compress the propshaft, causing it to bend. An upper chassis brace helps prevent this. Something to consider adding to your hopup list perhaps?

  10. Posted

    My C11 saw its first proper endurance test today, and I am pleased to be able to report that the motor cooling fan performed admirably - after 30 minutes, the motor was only 14 degrees above ambient.

    Weirdly, the servo also got rather warm - only 2 degrees cooler than the motor. I suppose it is moving back and forth almost constantly on a twisty track, so I guess it is to be expected. 

    • Like 4

  11. Posted

    Monday's planned testing had to be put on hold due to other commitments, but today I did my first full 30-minute tests with my C11, and found out a few things, some of which surprised me.

    The first surprises were to do with temperatures. It was 23 degrees out, and at the 15-minute point my motor was only at 37 degrees, ESC at 42 degrees and battery at 35 degrees - all cooler than I thought they would be. However my servo was also at 35 degrees - warmer than I expected. After 30 minutes, the temperatures were virtually unaltered. I was really expecting things to be running warmer.

    The second surprise was how tiring it is running for the full race time at no more than 20% throttle, which is what I have to do to keep speeds reasonable with my 4.5t motor. I think I might turn down my throttle endpoint rather than having to keep my finger from pulling the trigger too far next time.

    I also found myself becoming slightly disoriented after staring at the car for so long, and found that I needed to lean against a lamp post for stability. Not sure if this is a result of my aging eyesight, having skipped breakfast or something else, but I wasn't expecting it.

    How is everyone else faring with the endurance challenge?

    • Like 3

  12. Posted

    My skateboard bearing oil has been taken over by my wife for use on her roller skates, but I never thought of yo-yo oil for use in RC. Back in my yo-yo days we used linseed oil, which has just the right amount of grab for reliable string re-uptake, but is perhaps a bit on the sticky side for RC use. I'm guessing your yo-yo oil has a synthetic base?

    • Like 3

  13. Posted

    I'd second the idea of a pan car. Kamtec/Mardave sell the individual bits that might be hard to scratch-build, as well as the materials for making your own chassis to fit them to.

    For buggies and trucks, the WR-01/WT-01/WR-02 gearbox is a good start, sold as a complete unit with housing, gears and motor, to which you can attach the gubbins of your choice.

    • Like 1

  14. Posted

    If you are willing to look beyond the RC industry, might I suggest looking at the oils sold for use on the valves of brass instruments such as trumpets, tubas, etc? They are typically very low viscosity so as not to slow the valve action when playing quickly, have excellent anti-corrosive properties to help the valves cope with exposure to condensation from the musician's breath, and can be found in most music shops or online. I have a bottle left over from my tuba-playing days, and can tell you that it makes excellent bearing oil!

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1

  15. Posted

    The hexagonal top caps and lower seals retained with clips, along with the size of the eyelet plastics, strongly suggest generic Far Eastern items sold under a number of brands, and in some cases no brand at all. I had some Ansmann branded ones that looked identical apart from having black anodising.

    Or were they Fastrax? I can't recall for certain, not that it is all that relevant since they come from the same place anyway. 😁

    • Thanks 1

  16. Posted

    17 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

    I decided that I would not keep the giant blue thumb nuts and pondered how cool it would be if someone would make the same thing but a quarter of the size, since that particular application does not require any sort of torque at all. Hmm, a quarter of the size... That's about the size of these serrated M3 nuts that I have.

    I think thumb nuts are a great solution for this particular application. I use them on my F104V2 Pro battery hold down. Although I get it that yours look a bit, um, large. Exotec make more compact examples specifically for battery hold downs that might suit your tastes better, being about the same diameter and height as an M4 wheel nut - a great match for the flanged nuts up front. Here they are on my F1:

    20240410_124246

    Mine are black as the car is a Black Special edition, but you can get them in Tamiya blue too under part number #EXO1191MBL.

    https://rcracecontrol.store/en-gb/products/exotek-m3-twist-nut-medium-blue

    • Like 2

  18. Posted

    3 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:

    Just wouldn't calibrate full brake with a 10BL120 esc on her race car, not sure if I had something set wrong in the TX throttle settings, but switched channels, and used the steering, and it did it first try 🤷‍♂️

    It is an odd phenomenon, and one which I have experienced as well. It seems that different manufacturers, and sometimes even individual esc's, have different ideas as to what a maximum endpoint should be. I had the same occurring when trying to calibrate a M-tronics ESC. It would calibrate to the steering channel but not the throttle channel, however when I adjusted the end points on the throttle channel from 100% down to 99%, it calibrated just fine.

    • Confused 1

  19. Posted

    Strong winds over the weekend have left my favorite running area swept free of debris, so since I have a day off today, I am going to take advantage of this by having my first proper endurance testing session with my C11. My batteries are pretty decent, but I suspect that I will still need to use the mandatory pit stop to change batteries due to my hungry 4.5 turn motor. It will also be interesting to see if I can maintain concentration for 30 minutes, and if my running area, which is outside the local council garages, remains free of other traffic for a whole 30 minutes! 😁

    • Like 2

  20. Posted

    Proper race grade tyres make a huge difference. I use Sorex tyres when I am making a serious bid for the podium with my TT-02 Type S or TB-03, and the difference is night and day compared to when I am running them for fun with more scale appropriate tyres.

    I wouldn't be surprised if you are a contender for top spot with your new tires!

    • Like 4

  22. Posted

    19 minutes ago, TomGee said:

    As a ‘returner’ to the hobby, I come from an era of crystals and interference when it comes to transmitters and receivers. So, I’m just getting my head around 2.4ghz…

    I bought a basic buggy for both my sons and a different receiver/transmitter set each. As expected, the transmitters and receivers automatically paired out of the box. However, is this because the two units are linked somehow by the manufacturer or does the receiver just detect a signal and ‘lock on’ to it? Would the two units still find each other if, for example, several transmitters were all switched on at once?! 

    The reason I ask is that I’d like to buy one of the sets again and run it in my new car at the same time as my boys (IE three of us racing/bashing different cars at the same time, with the same model of radio gear in two of the three cars). Is there a chance the gear will interfere with each other, or will the two sets from the same manufacturer pair independently and operate fine alongside each other?

     

    If they do have some sort of link ‘out of the box’ does that mean that these budget sets cannot be unlinked and then paired to different gear later if, for example, one of us wants to go wheel instead of stick but only change the transmitter?

     

    For info, the set I’m thinking of getting two of is this cheap and cheerful fella: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/absima-sr2s-2-channel-24ghz-radio-control-system-stick-radio-407387

     

    You can bind and rebind those as many times as you like, and the receiver will only listen to the transmitter to which it was most recently bound. You and your offspring won't have any difficulty running your cars together with those radios.

    As for pairing the receivers with a different transmitter further down the line, that is where things get a bit iffy. Some manufacturers use different protocols to others, and some manufacturers even use different protocols within their own model ranges, so it may or may not work depending on whether the new transmitter and your existing receiver use the same protocols.

    • Like 1

  24. Posted

    Right, let's give this a go!

    Anderstorp is the track for the 5-minute April postal races, so we'll start with the same circuit for our endurance races, but at 1.5 times the size.

    This is the track in 5-minute postal racing size:

    20240404_152228.jpg

    If anyone fancies scaling it up to 1.5 times the size, please do! Not sure when I'll get to doing it myself. 😁

    Results submission form is here:

    https://forms.gle/Pw6Zpnv4guBxZmw18

    Shall we run the round until midnight UTC on 28 April, same as the normal postal racing?

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