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Everything posted by TurnipJF

  1. TurnipJF

    the rubber on ESC melted

    If a connector is bent or out of shape, it doesn't make proper contact and has more resistance than it should. Resistance leads to heat buildup, which will discolour and eventually melt the rubber like you have seen here. Since you say it was difficult to connect, chances are it was out of shape. This is not uncommon with stock Tamiya motor connectors. The way to remedy it is to either solder the ESC leads straight to the motor if you don't plan on removing it often, or replace the connectors with a more reliable system such as bullets for example if you plan on frequent motor swaps.
  2. TurnipJF

    Is this real? GF01 Monster Beetle...

    As long as Tamiya continue to also bring out innovative racing chassis like the M-07 and M-08, I don't mind if they also bring out parts bin toys like this. I'm not going to buy one, but I'm sure many people will, and if that means that the company continues to survive in the current economic climate, that can only be a good thing for all of us.
  3. TurnipJF

    M-03 Question

    The M-06 has a very long rear overhang compared to most Mini chassis. In what respect does it not fit? Is the wheelbase wrong or is the motor interfering with the back of the shell? If the former, I'm afraid the wheelbase is the going to be the same so it won't be any different. If the latter, there is virtually no rear overhang on the M-03 so it should be a far easier fit.
  4. TurnipJF

    M-03 Question

    Many of the Kamtec banger bodies are designed with a bit of wheelbase flexibility depending on how you trim the wheel arches, allowing them to fit either a 205mm Mardave or a 210mm Tamiya mini chassis equally easily. I have a Kamtec Hotrod Beetle shell on a M-06 and a Morris Minor van shell on a M-03, both of which fit just fine. The Beetle has scope to adjust the rear wheel arch position and the Morris Minor has scope to adjust the front wheel arch position.
  5. TurnipJF

    Motor choice again

    It also depends on what ESC you are running it with. Can it deliver 63 amps?
  6. TurnipJF

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Some bits for my racing teapot, F103 and FF-03. The teapot receives some proper old school plates with a number registered to a full-size red Morris Minor van, googly eyes for some character and a genuine Spektrum receiver to replace the glitch prone ORX one it is fitted with currently. The F103 receives the Sport Tuned motor. This is for my 15th Anniversary Edition one which is set up to the brushed spec rules that our club had back in the day. The FF-03 receives the screws to replace a couple with damaged heads due to use of a Philips rather than a JIS screwdriver.
  7. TurnipJF

    Recommended kit

    Deans (T) connectors are not to everyone's tastes, but I like them, for the following reasons: Once plugged in, they stay together firmly. As others have pointed out, this does make them a bit difficult to unplug at times, but it also means that they don't come undone by themselves while running. (That happened to me with XT60s.) They are very widely used. This means that, while they can be a bit tricky to solder, the chances of having to solder them is reduced as you are likely to be able to order your components with them pre-fitted. It also means that I can lend/borrow equipment from my clubmates as they use the same connectors. They are physically very small. Yes, this might make them a bit more difficult to work with, but this also makes them easier to fit under compact bodyshells. Not a concern for touring cars, but potentially useful for some buggies, and very useful for the F1s that I race. As for wear and sparking, not an issue in my experience. They are sturdy and easy to clean, and no more prone to sparking than any other connector. It is just easier to see the spark as it is not hidden by the plastic parts as it its with many other connector systems.
  8. TurnipJF

    Tamiya 57409 - Lunch Box Mini (SW-01)

    I am a bit surprised that it bears a Lunch Box shell. The chassis is more mini Heavy Dump than Lunch Box. I suppose the LB is more iconic though.
  9. TurnipJF

    Recommended kit

    Courtesy of TA-Mark:
  10. TurnipJF

    58669 M-08 Chassis Kit confirmed

    There doesn't seem to be much material keeping the rear end attached to the rest of the car:
  11. TurnipJF

    58669 M-08 Chassis Kit confirmed

    The wheelbase adjustment slider thing looks a bit odd from below in anything other than 210mm IMO.
  12. TurnipJF

    58669 M-08 Chassis Kit confirmed

    Box art gives a better idea of gearbox layout:
  13. TurnipJF

    TT-02 Aluminium part upgrades. (Fastrax)

    Fastrax is not a manufacturer. It is a brand owned by CML Distribution, a UK-based importer of model products. They import their products from a variety of (typically Far Eastern) manufacturers and slap their own label on them. Unfortunately they don't seem to be too picky as to who they buy from, and quality is highly variable. Chances are the parts simply won't fit as they have been poorly manufactured. It might be a case of having to return or bin these parts and buy some from a reputable manufacturer with better production tolerances. 3Racing, Yeah Racing and GPM, while not perfect, are generally pretty good in this regard. And of course Tamiya items are pretty much guaranteed to fit without a problem.
  14. The CC-01 rear diff needs threadlock on the screws that hold it together otherwise it will work loose with use. Most metal screws going into metal threads need threadlock to stop them coming undone, and these are no different.
  15. TurnipJF

    Recommended kit

    The stock ESC does permit lipos, it just doesn't warn you when they are about to run flat. An external lipo alarm can help with this, or a lipo cut-off switch. The former beeps at you when the battery is about to run flat, the latter shuts the car down.
  16. TurnipJF

    Recommended kit

    In my experience, a hard steel pinion doesn't wear out the spur prematurely! If anything, it prolongs its life. A soft pinion wears its teeth to a shark fin profile which places uneven pressure on the teeth of the spur gear, accelerating its wear. The metal particles that wear away from the pinion mix with the gearbox grease, turning it into a grey sludgy grinding paste which also accelerates wear. A hard steel pinion holds its shape for longer, maintaining even pressure on the teeth of the spur, helping it to last longer too. Plus, since it sheds fewer particles, the gearbox grease isn't contaminated as quickly, retaining its lubricating properties. Tamiya acknowledge this and provide a hard steel pinion as standard with the DF-02 and TT-02B. So by all means use the stock one, but if you want to fit a different pinion, why downgrade to soft alloy? Best keep with steel IMO.
  17. TurnipJF

    Build problem - dodgy nuts

    If you have a spare sacrificial screw, I'd say yes, try forcing it. It is useless in its current state. You can't make the situation any worse.
  18. TurnipJF

    Build problem - dodgy nuts

    Can it screw in from the other end at all? It might be that just part of the thread has been malformed or damaged, and screwing something in from the other end can straighten it out again.
  19. TurnipJF

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    This is the one I use: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-4000mahr-7-4v-30-60c-2s-lipo/rc-car-products/388538
  20. TurnipJF

    WR02C Sandscorcher

    One of the things I prefer about JennyMo's version is that it has the body proportions of a 1:1 shortened bug, rather than the distorted "comic" look of the one at the show.
  21. TurnipJF

    Recommended kit

    The DF-02 has the backbone as well as the metal diff gears, metal dogbones, etc, but it also has a Achilles' heel - the lower front suspension arm mounts are not as strong as the suspension arms themselves, so in a crash, there is a good chance that the arm will remain intact and rip the mount out of the chassis, requiring a full strip-down to fit a new tub. The TT-02B on the other hand, while also having strong arms, has a system whereby the front arm mounts are separate from the chassis, so if one is damaged in a crash, you don't need to take the whole car apart, just fit a new arm mount. And it doesn't need a backbone due to having a stiffer tub. It does however have plastic diff gears. It is said that the best option is a hybrid of the two - a DF-02 geartrain in a TT-02B chassis. And a good starting point for such a vehicle is a TT-02B kit such as the one you are considering buying. So it sounds like you are on the right track!
  22. TurnipJF

    Recommended kit

    That is correct. 0.6 module for the TT-02B and other chassis in the TT range (as well as most other Tamiyas for that matter), 0.8 module for the DT-03 and other buggies in the DT range, as well as some older designs such as the Grasshopper and Hornet.
  23. TurnipJF

    Recommended kit

    Hmm. Maybe a Star Unit? Or perhaps one of the 380-powered models such as a Grasshopper?
  24. TurnipJF

    Recommended kit

    Tamico are a reliable supplier. No reason not to buy the kit from them. Might as well get the servo, motor and pinion from Modelsport, as well as the batteries, charger, transmitter and receiver if you need them. The electronics are the parts more likely to go wrong and need exchanging, and Modelsport customer service is good when it comes to returns. The pinion pitch will be 0.6 Module, with the tooth count dependent on your motor choice. If you want to go brushless and choose a Speed Passion motor, you need not worry about soldering. The terminals on the back of the motor can be easily removed and soldered to the ESC wires without risking damage to the motor itself, and they have little channels in them to hold the wire in place while you solder. If that still sounds like too much hassle, you can ask the folks at Modelsport to do the soldering for you for a small fee, or buy some adapters. The most important upgrade to include while building the model is a set of bearings. Rubber sealed ones last longer of the car is to be used off road. RCBearings.co.uk sell complete rubber sealed sets of good quality for not much cash. Since the shell comes pre finished you don't need to worry about paint or bodyshell trimming tools, so as long as you have a suitable JIS screwdriver and a means of cutting the parts from the sprues, you should be good to go!
  25. This thread will detail the restoration of the Sand Scorcher belonging to @Grumpy pants. I retrieved it from the local UPS "depot" (actually a dodgy corner shop) earlier this evening, and brought it home to find the following: It looks a bit worn and sandy, but certainly not the worst example out there by a long shot. With a good cleaning, a fresh chassis plate and a few other bits, it should turn out very nicely!