Jump to content

TurnipJF

Members
  • Content Count

    5330
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TurnipJF

  1. I heartily agree with the advice above. The M-08 is just as at home on a reasonably clean parking lot as it is on a proper track. Mine is also a regular entrant into the postal races, where it acquits itself very well. The M-07 is more forgiving, but the M-08 is better at getting the power down after a corner, so there isn't much in it in terms of lap counts after 5 mins.
  2. That is a tough call. All three options are a lot of fun for general driving, all benefit from the "Big 3" upgrades (bearings, oil shocks and a steel pinion) if not already fitted, and all can potentially be taken to a club and raced. You have more choices of body and wheel style with the TT-02 though, and if the kids are running them, there is also an argument to be made for a common spares stash.
  3. Here we go: Position Username Lap count Car Motor Battery Running surface Surface modifiers (Optional) Running weight (Optional) Best lap 1 Ferruz 56 2020 Terra Scorcher 17.5t Flash Racing A series 7.2V NiMH Cracked old tarmac partially on a slight incline No - the track surface was clear and dry. 2 TurnipJF 56 FF-03 Generic Frontie Race Blob 13.5t Speed Passion 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 3 TurnipJF 55 M-07 Fiat 500 13.5t Speed Passion 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 4 Ferruz 54 DF-01 Manta Ray 2018 13.5t Bluebottle 7.2V NiMH Cracked old tarmac partially on slight incline No - the track surface was clear and dry. 5 TurnipJF 53 M-05 Suzuki Swift 13.5t Speed Passion 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 6 TurnipJF 52 FF-01 Honda Civic 27t Etronix 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 7 TurnipJF 50 FF-02 VW Scirocco 27t Etronix 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 8 TurnipJF 49 M-03 Mini Cooper Sport Tuned (black can type) 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 9 Grastens 47 Striker 23T Brushed (Twin Star Racing 23T Inter) 7.2V NiMH Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry., I am bad at driving! 1682 5.39 10 SlideWRX 46 DT-03 Torque Tuned 7.2V NiMH Tarmac Flurries 5.97 11 Re-Bugged 46 M08 Mini Sport Tuned 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 12 Re-Bugged 46 M06 Alfa Giulia Torque Tuned 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 13 SlideWRX 44 DT-03 Torqued Tuned 7.2V NiMH Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 5.9 14 nicksincrc 43 m05 mazda mx5 27t silver can 7.2V NiMH Tarmac It was wet., It was damp. 15 Re-bugged 43 TA02SW Porsche Sport Tuned 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 16 SlideWRX 42 DT-03 Torque Tuned 7.2V NiMH Tarmac Darn Leaves 6.16 17 Re-Bugged 42 Wild One 13.5t Brushless 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 18 TurnipJF 42 Grasshopper II Torque Tuned 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 19 MontyMole 40 TT-02B Plasma Edge II 13.5t Hobbywing XeRun Justock Sensored 7.2V NiMH Dirt It was damp. 6.34s 20 MontyMole 38 Terra Scorcher 17.5t Hobbywing Quicrun sensored 7.2V NiMH Dirt It was damp. 6.81s 21 Tamiyastef 34 DT-03T Mabuchi RS380S 2S LiPo Tarmac It was wet. 7.79 22 Tamiyastef 32 Grasshopper (original) Mabuchi RS380S 2S LiPo Tarmac No - the track surface was clear and dry. 7.98 23 Andreas W 30 Grasshornet 23t Sport Tuned 7.2V NiMH Dirt It was sandy. 24 Andreas W 29 Tomahawk 17t YR Hackmoto 7.2V NiMH Dirt It was sandy. 25 Grastens 10 Bruiser 27T stock 540 7.2V NiMH Snow There was snow. Well done @Ferruz for achieving top spot, and thanks to all who joined in the fun! Where will we be racing next I wonder?
  4. If anyone has any lap counts that they haven't submitted yet, please do so ASAP as I'll be closing the form and collating the results this evening!
  5. Pretty simple really - just a soft cloth, some "Brasso" metal polish and a drill to hold and spin the hardware. The screws had a piece of 3mm I.D. plastic tube around them to stop the chuck from damaging the threads, and the nuts were attached to the end of a piece of threaded rod, with a locknut to stop them from moving as the rod was spun in the drill. It was really quick, with most pieces only requiring a few seconds of spin time to regain their shine.
  6. The name has quite a ring to it. I'm tempted to go this route for that reason alone! 😀
  7. Thanks for the offer, but in homage to the original Bear Hawk's hard plastic body, if I go the buggy route I think I want to try to get a hard body to fit, even if it isn't a Bear Hawk one. The offer is appreciated though!
  8. @Grumpy pants Thanks, that is very kind of you. I think I'm good though - I can't see any of the missing bits amongst your stash, and my wife has kindly offered to get me the remaining sprues that I need as part of a Christmas present. 👍😁🌲
  9. And that brings the project to a pause, for now. More sprues will be ordered come next month's payday, and we'll continue with the suspension and other bits. Until then, I need to give some thought to what this chassis will become. I have a set of spare long spindles from my Mad Bull and some unused Stadium Blitzer wheels left over from my Aqroshot build, so it could become a stadium truck. I also have a Blackfoot bodyshell in my stash, which might look good on the chassis. The Monster Beetle shell works nicely in Blitzer Beetle guise, so perhaps a Stadium Blackfoot might work equally well? I don't have a Bear Hawk bodyshell, neither can I find any for sale at an affordable price, but I do have a Mad Bull and Super Fighter GR shell in my stash. Neither are a direct fit on this chassis, but both could be adapted to fit without major surgery. An idea I had was to take one of these shells, cut off the rear and build a cage to replace it, paying stylistic homage to the Bear Hawk. A third approach I could take is to go non-Tamiya with the bodyshell, instead adapting a Kamtec one to fit. I rather like their Morris Minor van shell which I have used on a couple of projects. I was thinking I might fit one of these, lengthened to suit the wheelbase, and pair it with the Aqroshot road tyres and Stadium Blitzer wheels. Or even better - fit Aqroshot front tyres and some other brand of rears with a similar on-road tread that are wide enough to fit the wheels without the weird stretched sidewall look. But the bodywork will need to wait until January at least, so plenty of time to ponder it!
  10. With the gearbox having progressed as far as possible until I receive the pinion and decide on a motor, I turned my attention to the tub. This moulding dates back to the Falcon with its trailing arm rear suspension. The mounts for said suspension are blanked off with two little plastic plates. The stock screws are 10mm items which protrude 2mm into the battery bay. Not sure why these were chosen by the designers as the extra 2mm doesn't seem to serve any useful purpose, so I replaced them with 8mm ones which end flush with the edges of the moulded recesses in the tub.
  11. The gearbox was then closed up with a mixture of new and freshly repolished hardware. I am quite pleased with how the nuts came out. I can't even tell which are new and which are repolished.
  12. The cleaned, greased and reassembled diff went into the gearbox casing along with the cleaned and greased spur gear. The diff rides on fresh rubber sealed bearings and the spur on metal shielded ones as it is protected inside the gearbox. The spur gear has some ingrained greying from being used with an aluminium pinion, but the tooth profile remains undamaged so it should be good for many runs to come. (I will be using a steel pinion to help prevent further wear.)
  13. So, after the requisite cleaning of the parts, reassembly started with the diff. The internals are slowed slightly with AW grease, while the external teeth got a thin smear of standard kit grease.
  14. The first step was to disassemble and assess the parts, dividing them into three categories: too hacked, cracked or otherwise damaged to be of use, worn but restorable, and pretty much good to go. There were also some parts that were missing entirely. Category 1 parts included the gearbox casings (cracked at the upper arm mounts), the main tub (cracked in several places and hacked at the rear), the front bulkhead (bumper mount hacked off), the front shock tower (cracked at the shock mounts), one of the rear upper arms (stretched and stripped by the oversize wood screw mentioned earlier), the spindles (damaged through fitment of oversized ball connectors) and one of the rear uprights (cracked and stripped upper suspension arm attachment). Category 2 parts included the lower arms, a few of the screws and nuts, and the hinge pins. Category 3 parts included the universals, gearbox internals and the rest of the screws and nuts which were in need of a cleaning but showed no significant wear. Missing parts included the motor cap, rear shocks, rear shock tower, body mounts, front bumper and a few other fixings. I have a system of ensuring that my hobby remains affordable by only spending £50 per month on it. That way, I don't need to feel any guilt at all about whether my projects are cheap or expensive in total. The more costly ones just take a bit longer. So with the monthly hobby budget remaining after the purchase of the roller, I bought a set of gearbox plastics, a main tub and a set of D parts. These would allow me to make a start. However further progress will have to wait for next month.
  15. Hello everyone! This thread is to document the restomodding of a chassis that I bought off @SteelRat recently for the princely sum of £15.00. As expected from the low price, it needs a lot of work, but I am confident that it will come out really well in the end. The end might be a way off yet, but by popular demand I am starting the build thread now. Just expect a delay or two while I wait for parts and the budget to buy them. Anyway, on to the project. This is the starting point: The chassis is a tad odd, appearing to contain a variety of pieces from different places. The front spindles indicate that it was a buggy, but the red uprights of the Bear Hawk are absent. Some of the parts are attached with stainless hex hardware, but there are also standard JIS screws and a totally unsuitable wood screw in the mix. The rear features universals riding on rubber sealed bearings, but the gearbox internals still ride on plastic bushings. I suspect that this is the remains of several Blitzer-based cars, possibly assembled from the leftovers of another restoration project. As such, it will need a few bits to bring it back from the brink, but most of the hardware is present, so a restomod is quite achievable.
  16. There will definitely be one, but I'm not sure when that will get underway. I have started the restomod process, but it is now on hold until more parts arrive, which will be Christmas time. Shall I start the thread now and leave it hanging for a while, or wait until the process can be documented as a whole?
  17. I run mine in MWB configuration. I found this worked well with my M-03, so have been running my FWD M chassis thus configured ever since. Fiat 500 and Suzuki Swift shells feature a nice rounded roofline which helps the car land back on its wheels when it rolls over.
  18. Yes, by FWD M-chassis standards, primarily because you don't need to split the whole chassis to get at the gearbox. The plastics are also of a higher quality than Tamiya's other FWD M-chassis models, so they can survive multiple screw insertions and removals without stripping. Definitely! Out of my FWD fleet which currently consists of an M-03, M-05, FF-01, FF-02, FF-03 and M-07, I would rank the M-07 as my favourite runner. It took a bit of setting up though, being a more race-oriented chassis. Before I had it set up to my liking, I preferred my M-05. The plastic diff internals are said to be a weak point - some racers having claimed to have blown them on their first outing. Personally I haven't had any trouble with them, but I have a steel set ready to go in when/if they give up the ghost. The motor doesn't have a great deal of airflow so an extra heatsink might not go amiss. I also managed to break a stock rear upright in what seemed to be a minor collision, but I haven't had any further issues since fitting the carbon-reinforced ones.
  19. Today a Falcon chassis tub arrived, which along with the gearbox and skid plate sprues that arrived the other day will allow my poorly Bear Hawk to take the first tentative steps on the road to recovery. It will be a long road, hampered as it is by seasonal expenditure reducing the availability of hobby funds, but it will get there in the end.
  20. The manual would no doubt help: http://generation-g.ning.com/photo/albums/ls-lm-406fb-manual
  21. Just placed an order for some bits to help bring the Bear Hawk roller I bought off @SteelRat back to life. I am not sure yet which direction I want to go with it, either restoring it as a Bear Hawk, restomodding it into a Bear Hawk-esque custom-bodied buggy or turning it into a Stadium Something, but a fresh tub and gearbox plastics will come in handy whatever it ends up becoming, so they are on the way.
  22. For a price guideline, perhaps look at what they are going for elsewhere online? For example, RCModelStore.com sells them for €19.00 and Delta Plastik sell them for €20.00.
×
×
  • Create New...