Kingfisher

We get that, but in Lemon-Lime, and add 2 shot glasses of gin to it. Makes for a more refreshing drink.

@ALEXKYRIAK I'm using the QuicRun 860 ESC for a pair of silver cans. Just remember to connect one of the motors backwards (reversed polarity) so that the wheels all spin the same direction. http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=357 There is no dual motor ESC for brushless that I know of. You would have to run two ESC's like Nitomor did. If that's the route, I would suggest my future plans. A pair of GoolRC brushless motor / ESC combo's.

Thanks. These are Bolink bodies. Both are 9" wide. Here's one of them. http://sabulatech.com/storefront/index.php?id_product=4733&controller=product The other I got from their eBay store and isn't listed on their website. Thanks for the information. I do agree that having the wrong body doesn't justify a new chassis, but I figured that since I had the bodies, maybe i'll explore that option. Otherwise, I don't know what to do with them unless I monsterize them for a truck. I'll hang onto them for now and keep checking eBay. Maybe something will come up at a decent price now that I know what to look for.

I bought two bodies not realizing they were for 1/10 pan cars. I should have read the specs, but I didn't. So, I could cut out the wheel wells to make them fit my WT-01, but I am curious to know who makes 1/10 pan car chassis'? Would I be better off getting new, or finding something used that's not produced anymore?

Also, Oldrc.com makes bodies. I've recently acquired 7 of the bodies they sell.

Shake it up real good and test it on something else before attempting to use it.

In December, I got my girlfriend a RTR Axial Wraith Spawn. She liked it so much, that she went and got me the kit version. I've got it just about finished and thought I would show what I have done so far. Metal front diff cover digital servo moved all of the electronics and battery under the hood for better weight distribution Dinky RC rear tray for a more scale interior look Axial 20T motor and AE-5 ESC Roof rack with working switchable LED's Treal adjustable metal steering rack Integy lowering kit Yeah Racing Desert Lizard 120mm shocks Traxxas battery posts being used as body mounts (2 in front 1 in rear) I brush painted the interior and used a Tamiya driver figures head. Body is painted using Tamiya Translucent Green backed with Bright Silver and I cut out the door windows to give it the "windows rolled down" look. Currently, my rear upper links are made from M3 threaded rod. I broke the plastic links that came with the kit. I had the slipper clutch too tight and tried to go full trigger on carpet, which ripped them right out rather than allowing the clutch to slip like it's supposed to.

I'm curious to know how much articulation you can get out of that rear suspension.

I locked my rear diff and left the front open. I used Tamiya grease in the front. Handling isn't bad, but 4 wheel steering tracks kinda funny on grippy surfaces.

Very cool. I try to get close with the camera, but no way am I letting a spider crawl on me.

Imagine you went to ship something of value, such as a watch or jewelry and they made you open the package. Then, suppose the package was "lost in the mail". I'd be pointing fingers left and right at the mail clerks that had to see the contents. Anti-siphon valves or anti-drain back valves. The city here requires us to have them at all times. I hate them. When one of them goes bad, and you go to turn the water off, it sprays all out of the valve and all over you.

Do you know what kind of spider it is? My guess is some sort of Orb Weaver, but I don't know many spiders outside of Texas.

Watch @Nitomor's videos on page 4 of his thread. He's using HPI Flux Shots, which I think are 4300Kv brushless (9Turn?).

Going on what @TurnipJF says, look at @Nitomor's build. He used dual ESC's and has his set up to be FWD, RWD, or 4WD. There's videos of his running in that thread. For mine, I used a single ESC and reversed the polarity of one of the motors, so mine is always 4WD. I also found it cheaper in the long run to buy a used WT01 for parts to go with my existing kit rather than buying all of the needed parts separately. So, technically, you need 3 trucks. Two to make one into a 4WD, and one to keep as a RWD.

Two threads that may interest you. and

You can feel free to add it to my collection.

Thanks. I have a few batteries, so run time isn't that big of a deal. I'll try @speedy_w_beans ' suggestion and try both. I like a faster car, so the 540 with a bigger pinion may be the way to go. Only one way to truly find out and that's to finish building it.

Thanks. I am building this one.

I'm curious. How big of a bucket, how much water, and how much salt?

Currently building my RM-01. I've opted to not use the 380 motor that came with it and installed a 540 silver can instead. I've never ran a 380 motor, so I am wondering what the power difference will be if I were to use the little 380. The kit comes with a 14T pinion. Will this cause excessive wheel spin with the 540, or should I go with a bigger pinion for more top speed?

Is the charger set for the correct Lipo? 2S, 3S?

Moving pictures aren't my thing, though I did show them off. So, the mars mission to the South American government should be okay.

Have you contacted the seller to see if they have any info? ....also, UK ebay has much better used listings and A LOT of them don't ship to the US.

Where did you get the picture? It looks like it has an eBay link to it.

It's only a matter of time before someone buys both the Tamiya and the clone. Then swaps the Tamiya contents for the clones contents, and lists it on eBay in the Tamiya box to make some of their money back.