Kingfisher

I'm interested in participating, but it may be a month before I can do anything due to my current work schedule of zero days off.

Currently using the small tupperware from the kitchen that never gets used for food and spends its life in the cabinet.

I'd be tempted to run over the fathers face with my fist. Sorry about your car. I see why you're interested in the YR parts.

I wondered what the purpose of the aluminum battery posts were for, and assumed it was just a dress-up item. Now I know that the battery can slip out. Thanks!

I've got them on mine (along with other YR parts). Other than a small 5min test run, I haven't had the chance to actually drive it yet to see how well they perform, but I can tell you that the fitment is very nice and the steering is smooth.

I've wondered this question as well. I pronounce it like this: Tameeyuh.

I agree. Those cutters are amazing. One cut, perfect smoothness.

Everything that I have to say about the metal DF-02 gears has already been posted. I don't want to stray off topic, but I have a TT02B buggy running a 15T motor and was looking to get taller wheels. I am curious as to what your rims and tires are. Are they 1/8?

You know you're an RC nut when....

I sure would love to have the real thing.

I've done 3 so far. What works for me is the scoring method followed by some curved body scissors. When doing the scoring method, I have found that you do not need to press the blade into the material hard at all. Just enough to where it feels like you are cutting through the plastic overspray layer. When doing curves (such as wheel wells), do them in one slice of the blade. Do not start the curve, then pick up the blade and restart the curve again. You'll end up with jagged areas. Go slow and take your time. Think of it more as "dragging" the blade, rather than slicing. It's better to cut off not enough than too much. If you've made your slices with the razor blade and are at the point of snapping it apart and find a tricky section that doesn't want to just pop apart, this is where the curved body scissors are helpful. If you've made your cuts, snapped apart the material, and find that you have a jagged edge, or a not so perfect cut, sandpaper is a big help. Don't sand the sides, only the cut line.

I've decided to build another Neo Scorcher, but in kit form with minimal upgrades. I assessed all of the left over parts from my Neo Scorcher build and realized that I had almost 3/4 of a car, lol. I'll be using the spare chassis tub that I got as a backup. I found the screw bags and parts tree's at JR-RC. They shipped from Hong Kong to Texas USA in 6 days. I thought that was pretty amazing considering other popular HK vendors took almost a month. All I have left to gather are shocks, tires, and another metal drive gear. Instead of the Neo Scorcher body, I want to do something crazy. Something like taking a Muscle car body and fitting it to the chassis to make a Muscle Buggy. The suspension will stick through the wheel wells, or at least that's the idea in my head at the moment.

Did you have any trouble getting the gear filed down correctly? I held mine against a wide flat file and rubbed the gear down it a couple times, checked fitment, and refiled until it was a nice fit.

Welcome! Thanks. Another car added to my ever-growing want list.

The wagon body is awesome. Nice work. I like that the exhaust tips look burnt.

That's exactly what I did, except that I used the YR diff locker in the rear. If I end up taking the locked diff out, I'll put in the 4 metal bevel gears.

Nice. Have you noticed better traction on pavement with those new rear wheels?

I will happily trade you my MX-5 for that white one.

I started this thread less than a month ago. At that time, we had 1 car built and 2 waiting to be built. As of now, we have 4 built and 2.5 waiting to be built. It's time that I thank you all for your ideas and go run some wood through the table saw.

Looks great. What is the wing from?

Does the MS kit you have come with a metal or plastic drive gear?

I've gotten two kits from TamiyaUSA and used Paypal both times without a problem. Thanks for the credit card info.

Going with the thought of TT02. The Subaru XV TT02 is $92.99 USD from TamiyaUSA. http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/4wd-shaft-drive-on-road-(tt)-36110/rc-subaru-xv-58567 You could always find another body for it if you don't like the one that comes with it and still come out pretty cheap in the end.

Good question. I have been wondering this myself having only bought Tamiya's.

I changed wheel hexes and that didn't fix it. I swapped tires around and that didn't fix it. I think that the rim wasn't drilled perfectly center. You can see this when looking at the lugnut and running the car on a stand. I'm going to try another rim and see if I get different results.