Kingfisher

Thanks. I think just the wheel hexes would be all I need. I wouldn't know what to do with the cad file. I have all of the other parts you listed. I can make the wheelbase work with one of the extra bodies I have. I've collected a few reproduced bolink 1/12 pan car bodies that don't have wheel wells down the sides. I don't race them on a track. My girlfriend and I just use the RM-01's to chase each other around a parking lot.

Will you be selling these adapters on shapeways or anywhere? I have a pair of RM-01's and have been curious on how they would do with rubber tires.

Seems to be working fine for me now.

I'm sorry, but since the GPS went flying and tumbling off of the car, doesn't that disqualify it from being an entry, just like if the car flipped as previously discussed? Also, the GPS left the frame of the camera there at the end, something I was disqualified for. @Jason1145

Link please?

That makes sense. I only have 1 contact (the coworker) and no activity so far. It's probably flagging me as a suspicious account until I get more contacts.

For a moment, I thought the first pic was the final result. Had to scroll back up and read. The 2nd pic looks pretty good.

I get this every time I click anything in the forums. This page isn’t working www.tamiyaclub.com is currently unable to handle this request. HTTP ERROR 500

That's what I am saying. I've never posted a picture of my face on the internet. I prefer to be behind the camera, not in front of it. I'm wondering if they use the EXIF info in the picture to see the time and date, to tell if it's a recent picture or not. I'm also wondering if I could take pictures of unknown people from the internet and change the EXIF to a recent time and date and see if they would accept it. I've read about FB and all of the things they do. I just want to have a profile setup for a design business idea I have been working on. I also cannot upgrade my Instagram account to a Business account without a Facebook page.

If you find that the undercarriage gets hung up on everything, I recommend the Junfac skid plate. http://junfac.com/product/cc01-chassis-skid-plate/390/

In trying to be more socially active on the internet, I setup a Facebook and Instagram account. I have no friends or family members in real life, and my girlfriend doesn't do social media. My only contact on Facebook so far is a coworker who helped me set it up. Other than that, I haven't had a chance to do anything with the account. After a couple days, my account got locked out. It said that they saw suspicious activity on my account, and I now need to upload a photo of myself to prove that it's really me. How could a photo prove that it's me if I hadn't uploaded anything yet? So, I uploaded a photo, which they claim won't be posted publicly. A day later, and I got my account back. I was too busy to mess with it, and a couple days passed. They locked me out saying the same thing. So, I had to send another photo to get my account back. A few days later, and repeat. Locked out again. What is the point? The coworker told me that I might need 5 people as contacts to vouch for me to say that I am who I say I am. Anybody know anything about this? I don't know 4 other people, and anyone else that I may personally know, I don't want to be connected with online. I thought it would pick up contacts as the account progressed.

I plan to take it more places than it was capable of in the beginning, and i'll have a Tamiya that can keep up with my girlfriends Axial.

I vote for a 10 x 10 with multi-wheel steering, and make the 2 middle wheels have tank steering.

A few months back, I picked up a 12 inch canoe kit off eBay. It was an unbuilt kit from the 1990's. My plan was to carry it on the top of a crawler. I've never built a boat like this before, so naturally I thought, how hard can this be? I opened the box and found a bunch of strips of wood and a diagram. I then put the lid back on the box, and it's been on the shelf since. This build thread has been helpful as I now see how things are supposed to go together. What kind of glue did you use? Are the pins easy to push through the wood without splitting the wood?

I'd like to suggest a book. https://www.amazon.com/Subtle-Art-Not-Giving-Counterintuitive/dp/0062457713

Nice work and congrats. Once you get used to it and learn to read food labels, it gets really easy to keep up with. The zero exercise is the icing on the cake.

I agree. The price seems reasonable, but given the time of year, I bet if you wait until after Christmas, you'll have a much better chance at selling it.

Update. Got some different wheels for it. These are Hot Racing 2.2 beadlocks in raw steel finish. From my understanding, they're bare steel and will rust and weather on their own. I like the scale looks of them, including the tiny little valve stem. They have a nice bit of weight to them too. Rear axle is most of the way done, and in. Just need 2 more bearings to complete it. Rear shock mounts are from an SCX10. I went back to the short wheel base for the time being as this meant that I could have it running a bit sooner by using one of my existing driveshafts. Unfortunately, I lack the correct grub screw for the vaterra axle and will need to collect that. Pinion angle for the rear also needs to be corrected. Will be done when I make new links for the 4-link. With the Landfreeder body, it loses its scale appearance. It now looks like a mini-monster truck.

I'm running a Creative Soundblaster 116db sound card with Logitech z906 speakers. With that, we have an Audio-Technica turntable connected. The sound quality is amazing with old albums. You can hear sounds in music that you don't hear in CD's and MP3's. For example, on a Queen album, you can hear fingers move along the frets of the guitar. Before the sound blankets went up, I could rattle the windows to the neighbors house with it if I wanted to. I don't care so much for going deaf as I do for sound quality, so it rarely ever gets the cops called.

I'm tempted to get another one and use it for its intended purpose, just to see how it works and what changes with it. I have a TT01 built as a touring car and another TT02 built as a rally car. Any idea where it would be most useful between pavement or dirt?

Haven't had a chance to run it yet since putting this in, but the car is built for the top speed thread. It's meant to hold a straight line more than it is for turning. Trying to stop a 60mph car with foam tires on concrete, and only rear brakes wasn't easy. That's also the reason why I have had to do another body shell. The other got destroyed.

Got some parts in. Still waiting to find or waiting for the rest to arrive. I've decided to go with the Vaterra rear axle as @OldSchoolRC1 has done. I got this shaft conversion from GCMRacing which converts the Vaterra axle to accept the CC01 driveshaft. Also, I got 5mm boat couplers to make my own drive shaft if I decide to extend the wheelbase longer than the CC01 driveshaft. Here's the tires I am going to run. 2.2 RC4WD Mud Slingers. Currently mounted on RPM Revolvers, though i'll move on to beadlocks before the build is complete. Here's some pics of a mock-up of the current progress.

Sorry, I do not have a Clodbuster yet.

I have a 1:1 MX-5 Miata and disagree.