Kingfisher
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Posts posted by Kingfisher
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6 minutes ago, wolfdogstinkus said:
It's on it's wheels. A very rare sight for an original un-modified pumpkin. They are usually spotted in the wild scrabbling about on their backs, or bouncing from one back wheel to the other in a desperate bid to gain traction, while the steering does nothing but deflect air and act as a massive rubber wind sail, as it wheelies along crashing into anything in it's path and somersaulting over it, briefly landing on its wheels again for long enough to catapult it over once more.
Edit2add: It looks like it may have double wishbone front and oil dampers, but the above still stands.
All is true. The diff is locked and it also has the ampro tranny brace.
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8 hours ago, Krankster82 said:
Is that your yellow truck? Looks awesome! Great work! 👍🏼
Thanks! Yep, it's mine. Build thread here:
32 minutes ago, Kevin_Mc said:Why does that Punpkin look so good?! Is it as sumple as the lack of decals and the chrome wheels or is there something else going on too?
Thanks. I think it's the lack of scratches.
(It also sits a bit higher with the longer shocks.)
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Which Blackfoot were you originally considering? Same chassis as the Monster Beetle, or the WT01 chassis? If the WT01 chassis, I change my vote to that. You can make it dual motor, 4WD with 4 wheel steering if you wanted.
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You need both. Not want. NEED. You have to have both. It's the only way.
j/k- I vote for the Pumpkin. I also vote for the metallic special with getting a spare black body to run. It's going to flip and tumble. Use the black body for bashing and the metallic for show. Or vise versa if that's your thing.
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Rear stripped.
Rear cut.
Front cut. The point of no return.
I was using the CC01 C-hubs and knuckles, but the front wheels kept binding up when steered left or right. It was so bad that I couldn't rotate the wheels anymore because the dogbones were trying to slip out, but just couldn't do it. I swapped the CC01 knuckles out for WT-01 knuckles (still using CC01 C-hubs), and the binding was gone. Also notice how much longer the tie rod mounts are on the WT01 knuckles.
I got this GPM 4-link kit over a year ago and never put it on. Test fitting it now, though I plan to make my own 4-link with longer links. I also extended the wheelbase to the longer mounts from what the Landfreeder was using.
An underside shot.
Some pre-shock articulation.
This is about where the servo will mount. I need to trim the tub a bit more and make the mount.
Almost there. The servo is still a bit too far forward.
More to come.
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Windows and interior for the hilux body.
SCX10 shock hoops.
Eagle Racing TT02 one-way diff to put front brakes on my speed run car.
WT-01 dogbones.
Desert Lizard shocks for my CC01 project.
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10 minutes ago, Juggular said:
Is it just me? Those trucks look way cooler than Dynahead.
It's the wheels on the dynahead. They look so out of place that they make it look like a kids toy. Those wheels are nice, but they don't look right on this one. If the wheels were more proportionate to the body and maybe even tucked in under the body a little more, it would look better IMO. It needs to look more "scale-crawler" and less "clearance bin at toys-r-us".
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Sounds nice. I want to hear it scream at full throttle until it's got no more to give.
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7 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:
Maybe "Legless Laurence" lost his legs in a Landfreeder crash.
Probably due to the poor steering, right?
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On 10/2/2018 at 8:34 PM, Juggular said:
I meant to add that it's fun enjoying RC in my head.
(Until I save enough for RM01, F103, F104, etc...)
I fixed your post for you.
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It's crazy how many different cars those arms will fit. M-chassis, WR02, WT01, and CC01 with minor filing. Nice work, and I like the reverse one wheel wheelie in one of the videos.
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1 hour ago, nowinaminute said:
I used cheapo 30mm ones on my Feiyue FY03 and they seem to work ok. No bending so far but it's quite a light vehicle. The only downside with the ones I got is that they weren't 100% snug on the stub axles so there was a little wobble which exaggerated the wobble that was already there due to it being a budget vehicle and not built to NASA tolerances. This turned out to be an easy fix though with the simple addition of a layer of clear sellotape around the stub axles before fitting the extenders.
I'm not sure how they would cope with hardcore trailin, on the one hand you have quite big forces working on the wheels but on the other hand there's not much speed involved normally. I reckon it's worth a dabble!
Thanks. I'm going to try the wheel spacers first. I'm still searching for rear axle ratio info. I've also got a 65-turn motor in it, so it's not fast at all.
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For cutting the wheel arches, I have used this tool on 3 different shells now with great results. Just like what you've done, I mount the body on the posts first before doing the wheel arches. I put the needle at the center of the axle and poke a tiny hole into the shell to keep the needle in place. Then, open it up to put the blade at the top of the tire where you want the arch. Then screw it to lock it in place and make the cut for all 4 wheels without changing its position. Just remember to put the needle at the center of each axle each time. When I make the cut, I do just as if you were trimming a shell with a hobby knife. Don't push too hard, just enough to score it so that you can break it on the score line.
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1 hour ago, OldSchoolRC1 said:
Eventually I swapped a Vaterra Ascender rear axle and it's much, much better. The width is pretty close. I make up the difference with 5mm hub extensions on both sides. The gear ratio works out perfect - puts a slight underdrive (approx 6%) in the rear which helps steering and climbing. In fact, my 1.9 CC01 now runs a narrowed Ascender axle out back as well. It's a beautiful mod.
I hope a few pics are ok?
The more pics the better! Feel free to add them as you please. Yours is awesome. I know I have seen it somewhere, but don't remember too much about it. In fact, the only thing I remember about it is that your skid plate is made out of a pizza pan, right? I may have come across it on rccrawler. What driveshaft, suspension links, and shock length are you running in the rear? Thanks for the response.
At first, I was going to try to use lower arms from a TT02B, but it would have required a bit more filing on the CC01 side, and I doubt I would have found a rear axle to match the width.
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I'm working on making my CC01 a more capable crawler. My plans are:
- TL01B front suspension
- front mounted servo
- widen the rear axle or replace with a wider axle
- 2.2 wheels
- longer shocks
- raised shock mounts
- Bruiser hilux cab with hand made flat bed.
So far, I have started on the front suspension.
In order for the lower arms to fit, I had to file somewhere between 0.5 - 1mm off of the CC01 mounting location.
I made the upper arms from 3mm threaded rod. These are the same length eye-to-eye as WT01 upper arms. I'm currently waiting on the dogbones to arrive.
With these arms, I gain close to 25mm ( 1 inch) of track width on each side. Here's pics with the Landfreeder body showing the difference.
With some larger 1.9's.
No rubbing at full lock with this body.
Here's the cab that I am going to use with 2.2 tires. Still collecting parts to complete the cab.
There is a gap where the side of the grill meets the body. Is that gap supposed to be there, or do I have mismatched parts? Maybe I just need to screw everything together.
For widening the rear axle, how would 25mm wheel wideners / spacers do? Once I measure the track width of the front, i'll see if any other Tamiya axles will fit back there.
I'll update as I make more progress and gather more parts. I'd like to use as many Tamiya parts as I can to complete this, though I don't think that is possible.
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11 hours ago, GregM said:
Regarding RWD type bodyshells on FWD type M-chassis:
Excellent points. I can confirm that the MX-5 fits the M06.
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8 hours ago, Yalson said:
tended to wear the rotor tips away, causing the engine to fail. They also had terrible fuel economy,
Apex seals and poor fuel economy is a trademark of rotaries, so that's understandable. It's also what so many people complained about with the Mazda rotaries. Thanks for the info.
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1 hour ago, Yalson said:
If they wanted to build an FWD NSU, why didn't they lengthen the chassis and put an Ro80 on it?
Wow. A FWD rotary. Never knew something like that existed.
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8 hours ago, MadInventor said:
black '78 "screamin' chicken" Trans Am.
You must be referring to the one at rccarkings.
http://www.rccarkings.net/bodies.htm#topsellers
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I have an M06 and an M05 already. I'll just get the body sets and put the drive wheels where they should be.
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3 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:
Its happening @Juggular, look at all the extra information you're getting, you're going to have to buy some to see for yourself...
Time to throw some logs on this fire.
and
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10 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:
see what I did there, blamed others.
No. It's okay. I blame that thread too.
8 hours ago, Juggular said:Maybe I could buy NSU TT Jagermeister...
Oh, no... is this how it starts?
You can get the NSU, but you'll still eventually come back to this thread and end up with an F1 car. Think about the maintenance costs... The F1 has less parts and smaller springs, so it should be cheaper to maintain, right? .......right?
4 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:Pan car suspension I would say, isnt it?
Looks like it's the same parts as the RM-01.
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2 hours ago, Juggular said:
I am probably not going to own F-1
I used to say the same thing. Then, I got an RM-01 (I know, not an F1) and found a flat parking area to run it. I fell in love and now have two RM-01's, an F103GT, and an F201 with plans to get an F104 soon. This thread will plant a seed in your head. I'll be watching for it to grow.
Also, look through the manual at the RM-01. It's a 2 piece chassis with a damper for front to back movement, another single damper with individual springs for side to side movement, and springs on the front kingpins like posted above.
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Found this and thought it would be fitting.
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All is true. The diff is locked and it also has the ampro tranny brace.
Blackfoot or Pumpkin
in General discussions
Posted
Not sure. It could just be the picture. I'll have to compare it to the windows that came with the metallic body, though I don't think there is a difference between the two that I have.