Well the time has come to find out what works on my nearly 30 year old boomerang. I will be adding photos along the way and acknowledging other builders who have given invaluable advice.
so how does one go about checking what works and what doesn't on something old? Well you get something new (in my case it was a re release super shot ) so you can test all the old bits.
first up the battery and charger are toast but they were on there way out in 1990. Surprisingly the motor still works, sort of. It has a nasty rattle and puts out a small cloud of burning electric smoke. On the plus side the mechanical speed controller still works. The next step is to see if my futaba remote still works.
i have stripped down the gearboxes and bagged up everything. I plan to give everything a good scrub and clean out before installing the shinny new metal bearings thanks to nitro master in the USA (ebay). It was a one stop shop really. New front wishbones, wheels, tyres, gears and a full set of super shot shocks! (Metal parts included). I also got the dogbone shaft that connects the gearboxes.
A local oz seller (the twokeytwokeybird) had the df03 cvd shafts as well as hex drives and blue aluminium wheel nuts.
kontemax (who answered all my questions, legend) pointed me in the right direction on the mechanical side. I don't think I am at the ball diff stage yet but maybe one day.
so the plan for the boomer is simple. Rip out the old stuff and put in the new stuff. Depending on how the radio gear goes, the esc and gt motor from the super shot will end up in the boomer. The super shot is going to be brushless eventually. The body on the boomer will get a strip and re spray but I am thinking either red bull stickers or martini. The martini look would be closer to the original and would look cool. The lucky stipe hotshot has made me think of going down a non original road.
I have two ideas for the body. One is to use the original shell to create a mould and do a carbon body shell. The other is to do an aluminium shell from thin sheet. I think I can pull the aluminium one off but the carbon one may take some learning.
one thing I did realise is the the boomer chassis has a bit of twist in it (if you grab the front and rear boxes the chassis twists). I think if I put a strut brace between the front shocks ( mad inventor did one for someone) it might stiffen up the chassis. If not I have a crazy idea of building a tubular frame with a thin aluminium sheet wrapping it. Weight will be the issue. I do have an old boomer chassis that I might experiment on.
To everyone that has answered my queries on electrics, mechanics and body fixing thank you. It has made my jumping back into this hobby a lot easier.