Problemchild

ah sorry no - gearbox crunches but the metal diff is on its way yeah its good - pretty nippy acceleration. doesn't seem to impact on the battery life too much tbh see my thread on temps etc JJ

bargain JJ

the motor? it has no brushes and has the 3 wires and sensor cable ?? JJ

so after sorting fitting the brushless 8.5T and the TT02B going backwards fast and forwards slow (flipping the diffs but i'm sure there MUST be a way using the ESC and transmitter) i've spent 20mins running it and the tamiya ESC held up well (c50degC according to the laser thermometer) with the motor running at only about 35degC and the tamiya battery connector just being a little warm. so all good (for now) Yeah racing bearing steering fitted too i tried the 12mm metal hex but they just dont grip the drivershaft and they come off too so sticking with plastic for now JJ

tweaked the brushless tidied wiring fitted yeah racing steering upgrade JJ

yes - tried all sorts set up says to put channel in reverse mode initially do the throttle position set up (tamiya ESC states full throttle and full reverse in set up mode) JJ

No - the instructions for the receiver tells you to always have the plug the one way round with the black wire in a certain position - this is confirmed by them having the little tab it doesn't say anywhere in the guides or the web to try the "servo" plug round the other way seems silly and probably something really simple but I followed all the set up processes there were a few posts on here about it actually but the solution was to swap wires to the motor which only works on non sensored motors oh well JJ

the instructions for the ESC have instructions for reverse BUT this is about switching the reverse function on and off looking on the internet, it seems like a VERY common problem and when it comes to sensored brushless motors there is no real solution unless the ESC has a reverse (the paired speed passion isn't able to resolve this either simply) I tried setting the ESC up with full throttle and reverse but didn't help tbh seems v complex for something simple JJ

p.s. swapping the plug in the receiver just makes it beep and not register the input JJ

had a go reprogramming it all day BUT after failing with the electrical solution i took out BOTH diffs and flipped them and now it runs fine yay mechanical engineering triumphs over electrical once again haha JJ

yup - it just has a fit seems a common problem from googling (motor and ESC agnostic) JJ

i'm pretty sure thats not allowed on sensored JJ

ok - all in and running BUT, as with the model before, i couldn't get it to run forwards 100% as it was only available in reverse. Easy fix with the brushed as swapping the motor wires worked on the sensored brushless thats not possible reversing the transmitter does not solve as it just reverses the trigger and it still goes faster backwards (just when trigger is for accelerate) ESC reverse is on JJ

some bits for my brushless TT02B build JJ

so, what we are doing with this mod is replacing the 4 plastic cog diff of the TT02 with the 3 steel cog diff of the DF02 Because the tougher diff is a 3 piece the diff casing is needed and this is the diff cup PLUS the large bevelled gear that screws onto the back of the cup from pack A (you WONT need the large white spur gear as yoou can keep your TT02 one parts bag A (mine ordered this week from here awaiting stock) http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-parts-bag-a-df-02/rc-car-products/26642 with the diff casing make sure you get the set and not just the spur gear (i got mine off ebay this week http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-0555104-DF02-Diff-Gear-Case-Gravel-Hound-Plasma-Edge-Aero-Avante-New-/182268919474?hash=item2a7012feb2:g:t-8AAOSwv0tVO5n1) <<<< i think sellers have cottoned onto this and are splitting the set and making double JJ

Lunchbox - it does wheelies and looks cool and is lovely and basic however I'm in the same situation as you and I've decided to go for the Kyosho Nexxt as its a simple build so won't have me taking over and parts are mega cheap and it looks supe funky and its Kyosho so a good make. Plus it has ESC inc for £55 JJ

the fixings that the dampers mount onto do not move around once attached to the chassis the dampers rotate on the metal ball collar fixings a "softer" mounting allows for flexing in the chassis, suspension movement, impact resistance etc etc JJ

ok - i see what you mean yes, my beetle and lunchbox have just under 1mm of play the nut should tighten up to the shoulder of the stub axle with the 2 bearings in the wheel hub the wheels spins soooooo smoothly for ages if you shim the wheel you may just add additional friction the only play i would worry about is if the wheel rocks wobbles in the stub axle Just trying to understand your other issue.... (sat with beetle on lap - haha) JJ

i have ball race - just buy bearings as they aren't much more than that http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-58060-58618-Monster-Beetle-Original-2015-Bearing-COMPLETE-12-Bearings-/351525969828?var=&hash=item51d8949fa4:m:m-F00h9vbMN5QeXwNZuG-LQ also worth buying the gearbox strengthening kit from the guy on here to stop the gears crunching JJ

had no issues with my build at all - was fab! (is this a re re discussion?) JJ

^^ sweeeeet!! JJ

who knows there is no base line as i doubt there is another chassis, set up the same, running the same same motor, esc, battery combo it'll be fun and thats the good bit about all this JJ

Ha - yeah i meant between the T and the R has anyone used the fake BL hobby wing rip offs on ebay the hobbywing ESC I currently have seems pretty nice with the waterproof/dust proof switching i know ESCs are all of different rating, quality, capability but maybe it's the fault of the motor spec sheet not stating peak or standard. 60A is already massive current and would warm up a hefty spanner quite nicely - 100A is crazy im not dismissing the advice - just asking questions to understand like I do with the uber high voltage activities I deal with at work. If a 3000W kettle draws 12.5A then you fit a 13A fuse so if a motor draws 55A and you have a 60A ESC am I not covered? can massively over engineer if that's deemed safest but am I missing a bit? Is it just about the additional heat generated from being close to the rating? JJ

Not arrived yet but that's what I'll do yes then finish with something a bit finer JJ

Not arrived yet but that's what I'll do yes then finish with something a bit finer JJ