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Problemchild

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Posts posted by Problemchild

  1. The only way I’ve found is to limit the extension of the suspension 

    in  another post I showed a picture of how it’s done in the 1:1 world

    Y0kYj9N.jpg

     

    so I made my own temp solution 

    YuMOrrp.jpg
     

    this has worked really well but it needs a slightly better solution (this is for my beetle running 3s brushless)

    JJ

  2. 2 hours ago, Saito2 said:

    Thanks for the tip.

    Nothing is overly precise in those ORV 'boxes but this re-re is noticeably sloppier than my vintage ones. I imagine that's not doing wonders for maintaining a good gear mesh inside. 

    I'm kinda stuck on what to do. On one hand, the right rear dogbone end of the universal looks ready to pop out as others have found out. Not wanting to deal with that, I just installed the re-re Frog full dogbone setup. I considered the MIP diff as a solution to the sloppy bearing carriers but they supposedly don't work with the Frog dogbones, only the stock Blackfoot universals. It looks hard to obtain both goals. I will give the Shoegoo a shot so I can retain the Frog axles. Thanks.

    What you need is a @Xeostar gearbox brace rather than the expensive MIP diff ;)

     

    JJ

  3. On 3/7/2021 at 8:33 AM, Nicadraus said:

    I posted a new topic in "The Builds" thread. It's been two already and it still hasn't been approved. I'm not sure why it even needs approval to post in "The Builds" section.

    So any admins or mods around here to check?

    You need to type @administrator or the like 

    has your post not been approved in the build thread?

    JJ

  4. I’ve been running my wiltoys 144001 for a few days now 

    it’s great fun 

    cost me £97 woth 3 x 2s LiPo

    the 550 motor in the small 1/14 scale car makes it fun and it does 20mph easy (not the 60kph it says on the box)

    i also bought the bling pack of red anodised metal parts which I will use as spares. Tbh thoigh it’s already making creaky diff noises (and yes I stripped it down and greased the diffs)

    I also put a phat bodies shell on it 

    UEdbWBf.jpg

    11Amzz0.jpg

    mit bling 1.0...

    J4IoRj1.jpg
     

    however, building my comical hornet when that came out was amazing fun and last week I lowered and widened it using baja champ lower arms, longer drive shafts and steering arms and gave it a new shell in Jun Watanabe colours - Tamiya is better for this very reason 

    mGgZinN.jpg

    lQXOGI3.jpg

    ogGGFsY.jpg
     

    When Tamiya have finished fleecing us nostalgic middle aged men, it will change its business model but while we are still around then long live driving crap RC car’s on nimh haha

    JJ

    • Like 4
  5. 4 hours ago, Shergar said:

    £19:19 delivered for the shell, and however cheap you can pick up the Tamiya PS main paint colour (and backing colour).

    https://www.kamtec.co.uk/epages/BT4645.sf/sec278bdd767d/?ObjectID=47703489&LastProductObjectID=33006037

    Stickers/decals take your pick off ebay for around £10. So probably £45 all delivered.

    Awesome - great info mate 

    I’ve ordered some fibreglass and resin to try and rescue the hard shell haha

    JJ

  6. The reason they don’t show pictures is because if you saw what it was then

    1. you wouldn’t buy it and 

    2. if you still wanted it you’d buy it elsewhere at 1/10th the price.

    I haven’t bought one but I would speculate that it’s just a shim to take up the slack in the side wall movement - keeping the diff cogs tighter and thus reducing slippage BUT adds tightness into the system under normal loads that could lead to excessive wear.

    You want to maintain the standard gear face contact pressure but stop them moving apart as the power is applied and the angle of the gears naturally forces things apart 

    hence @Xeostar and I designed the brace as the next step on from the amazing work @mheald did with his solution 

    JJ

    • Like 2
  7. On 3/1/2021 at 1:24 AM, TurnipJF said:

    If your standard shell is taking such a beating, would you consider a polycarbonate replacement if the repair doesn't hold together? Kamtec have some nice-looking ones that should significantly out-last the injection moulded stock item.

    Did consider this 

    i like the monster beetle look and decals 

    I’d have to shell out £30 to just get it smashed up again 

    wheelie bar needed most as it’s the shell tearing across the grass that’s damaging 

    JJ

  8. Have a read through my project pages - I started with 1 (lunchbox rere) and had that for a few years then beetle rere and then terra scorcher and then boom - 20+ now and a new shed but not quite a new wife yet :)

     

     

    • Haha 1
  9. My monsterbeetle (same ORV chassis iirc) is running 3s LiPo and a bushless Combo

    the only mod I needed to do was to design and manufacture a gear box brace (now for sale)

    it’s now fast as *******

    Get bearings 

    follow the instructions 

    enjoy 

    (a hard shell is harder to paint that a clear one)

    JJ

  10. 5 hours ago, Exit13 said:

    This looks like a fun modification. Any idea how similar that chassis is to say something like my Honda city Turbo?  I’d like to do something like this. 

    Looking at Tamiya base it’s exactly the same chassis so looks like no reason why you couldn’t just buy the 2 parts trees and drive shafts and steering arms to lower and widen the  car

    assuming you have the rere city turbo 

    JJ

     

  11. At last....!!!

    the gold wheels finally arrived 

    10 months after I paid for them - covid haha

    so I finally got to finish the hotshot and i think it looks amazing 

    lvyXdw2.jpg
     

    zAXSG6Q.jpg
     

    uqfgXc4.jpg
     

    Another project to hang on the wall 

    JJ

    • Like 4
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