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Problemchild

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Posts posted by Problemchild

  1. so after sorting fitting the brushless 8.5T and the TT02B going backwards fast and forwards slow (flipping the diffs but i'm sure there MUST be a way using the ESC and transmitter) i've spent 20mins running it and the tamiya ESC held up well (c50degC according to the laser thermometer)  with the motor running at only about 35degC and the tamiya battery connector just being a little warm.

    so all good (for now)

    11230471-2B8F-45C6-A5CD-95D88552F4E9.jpg

    Yeah racing bearing steering fitted too 

     

    i tried the 12mm metal hex but they just dont grip the drivershaft and they come off too so sticking with plastic for now

    JJ

     

    • Like 1
  2. No - the instructions for the receiver tells you to always have the plug the one way round with the black wire in a certain position - this is confirmed by them having the little tab

    it doesn't say anywhere in the guides or the web to try the "servo" plug round the other way

    seems silly and probably something really simple but I followed all the set up processes

    there were a few posts on here about it actually but the solution was to swap wires to the motor which only works on non sensored motors

    oh well

     

    JJ

  3. the instructions for the ESC have instructions for reverse BUT this is about switching the reverse function on and off

    looking on the internet, it seems like a VERY common problem and when it comes to sensored brushless motors there is no real solution unless the ESC has a reverse (the paired speed passion isn't able to resolve this either simply)

    I tried setting the ESC up with full throttle and reverse but didn't help tbh

    seems v complex for something simple

    JJ

     

  4. ok - all in and running BUT, as with the model before, i couldn't get it to run forwards 100% as it was only available in reverse.

    Easy fix with the brushed as swapping the motor wires worked 

    on the sensored brushless thats not possible

    reversing the transmitter does not solve as it just reverses the trigger and it still goes faster backwards (just when trigger is for accelerate)

    ESC reverse is on

    JJ

  5. so, what we are doing with this mod is replacing the 4 plastic cog diff of the TT02 with the 3 steel cog diff of the DF02

    Because the tougher diff is a 3 piece the diff casing is needed and this is the diff cup PLUS the large bevelled gear that screws onto the back of the cup from pack A (you WONT need the large white spur gear as yoou can keep your TT02 one

    DSC_0006_zps4df839cd.jpg

    parts bag A (mine ordered this week from here awaiting stock) http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-parts-bag-a-df-02/rc-car-products/26642

    with the diff casing make sure you get the set and not just the spur gear (i got mine off ebay this week http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-0555104-DF02-Diff-Gear-Case-Gravel-Hound-Plasma-Edge-Aero-Avante-New-/182268919474?hash=item2a7012feb2:g:t-8AAOSwv0tVO5n1)  <<<< i think sellers have cottoned onto this and are splitting the set and making double

    JJ

    • Thanks 2
  6. Lunchbox - it does wheelies and looks cool and is lovely and basic

    however I'm in the same situation as you and I've decided to go for the Kyosho Nexxt as its a simple build so won't have me taking over and parts are mega cheap and it looks supe funky and its Kyosho so a good make. Plus it has ESC inc for £55

     

    JJ

  7. ok - i see what you mean

    yes, my beetle and lunchbox have just under 1mm of play

    the nut should tighten up to the shoulder of the stub axle 

    with the 2 bearings in the wheel hub the wheels spins soooooo smoothly for ages

    if you shim the wheel you may just add additional friction

    the only play i would worry about is if the wheel rocks wobbles in the stub axle

    Just trying to understand your other issue....

    (sat with beetle on lap - haha)

     

    JJ

  8. Ha - yeah :)

    i meant between the T and the R 

    has anyone used the fake BL hobby wing rip offs on ebay

    the hobbywing ESC I currently have seems pretty nice with the waterproof/dust proof switching

    i know ESCs are all of different rating, quality, capability but maybe it's the fault of the motor spec sheet not stating peak or standard. 60A is already massive current and would warm up a hefty spanner quite nicely - 100A is crazy ;) 

    im not dismissing the advice - just asking questions to understand like I do with the uber high voltage activities I deal with at work.

    If a 3000W kettle draws 12.5A then you fit a 13A fuse so if a motor draws 55A and you have a 60A ESC am I not covered?

    can massively over engineer if that's deemed safest  but am I missing a bit? Is it just about the additional heat generated from being close to the rating?

    JJ

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