PapaJulietRomeo

I've reversed the controls on the remote and think I can fix it by reversing the motor through the ESC program card. According to HobbyKing technical support, this ESC/ program card combo requires me to connect to a PC. It's not written anywhere and I wish I'd known when I bought it as there's no Mac software. Will have to borrow a PC. Hopefully that'll sort it.

Hadn't noticed the above two responses when I originally posted. Thanks it all makes sense. The car is now going forwards and backwards according to the remote, but is going backwards a lot faster than forwards... Similarly, the left and right steering is switched. I assume I need to flick the servo reverse switch for both channels on the remote, then programme the ESC to reverse. Two problems: 1. I can't find the servo reverse switches on my Code Core 3 channel remote. They don't seem to be mentioned in the confusing manual. EDIT: Now fixed. 2. My Trackstar ESC programmer connects and allows me to change and select the options. It then looks like it's made changes as I select them but everything stays at default. Any ideas?

Im pretty sure the diffs are set correctly (spent ages on them!) and am reassured the wiring looks ok. Gonna try and programme the ESC this evening so will hopefully get it sorted. Cheers for the help. Hopefully I won't need to post back here and I'll finally have a car I can use!

Seven months (and significantly, another child) later I've still not finished this build so thought I might get the reassurance I need here to continue...! I've done all the assembly but it's going backwards. The reason I ask is because the same thing happened with my DT-02. Easy fix was to flick the switch on the transmitter but just wanted to check it's not something I'm doing wrong. As far as I can see, I've wired it correctly. Do these motors (Trackstar) have a forwards and backwards? Then just gotta program ESC and place stickers...

I’ve now pretty much finished the build and need to paint and install the electronics (I mentioned in another thread how it looks like I bought the wrong ESC - Hobbyking have yet to reply to my email). I went for 501 outdrives on the rear diff as I hope it’ll be less problematic. Everything went smoothly except for the wheel installation. The front hexes are a very tight fit and the first time I did it, I lost both hex shafts as they weren’t on properly. I found it easiest to put the buggy on it’s side and hold the drive shaft still with one hand while rotating the wheel till I could feel the hexes line up into place. I did this on the rears too. However, the gap between the front of the rear wheels and side the chassis is quite different on each side. I carefully measured the length of the arms so I would have thought they'd be about the same. Is there any reason for this? As suggested, I used two O rings on the rear TRF dampers, though I still wonder if the ride height is going to be a bit high. I was dubious about whether getting another brand of shock oil would be worthwhile so used Tamiya soft 300 cs oil and figured I could mix in some higher weight if needed later. On recommendation, I used Associated Green Slime. Here’s my full list of hop ups (I know I got a bit carried away!): 54204 High traction chassis 54040 Motor heat sink 51286 TRF501X differential joint 54390 Large differential plate x2 53124 Tungsten carbide diff balls x2 42143 Aluminium serrated wheels nuts 54039 Aluminium suspension block x2 54037 Aluminium front suspension mount 54038 Aluminium rear suspension mount 50994 Metal suspension balls 54140 Reinforced drive belt x2 54028 TRF buggy aeration damper set 54035 Reinforced L parts (pointless really as diff cover not used, just the steering parts) 54036 Reinforced M parts (damper stay) 54018 Slipper clutch I wanted to get a TA05 carbon fibre battery strap but despite ordering it from three different stores, no one seems to have it in stock. Rather than using scissors for the lexan, I scored the cut line and bent the cut like I’d seen on YouTube. I found this way easier!

Cheers guys. I'm about to email Hobbyking. I'm *******ed they've given me poor advice and don't think I should cover the return shipping cost. I'll stick with the 8.5T as it seems the best motor option and change the ESC. Their 80A ESC also doesn't look suitable either. I thought the 120A was the best solution? https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-genii-120a-1-10th-scale-sensored-brushless-car-esc-roar-brca-approved.html Shame it's £40 dearer but then I'm finding this isn't a cheap hobby!

I'm in the process of building a DB01 and have just received the electronics from Hobbyking. Despite being told otherwise three times by their customer support, I'm wondering if I've got the right esc. I've got the Trackstar 8.5T V2 sensored motor paired with a Trackstar Sportsman 60A sensored esc. The motor specification gives a 'Suggested ESC' of 120A, while the ESC specification gives a 'Motor Limits' of 11.5T or greater for a 1/10 buggy. I'm going to be using a 2S Lipo. I first asked them a few months ago whether the pair were suited and they confirmed they were. Then, just before purchase, I asked again, and then asked them to confirm this. It was three different members of their staff giving the advise. Am I going to have overheating problems? I was going to open the rear 'intake' vents on the Durga and leave the front vent closed on the basis that it looks like enough air will come in at the gap between the front of the lexan and chassis. I'll mainly be bashing but would like the option to race.

I found the general consensus is as Nobbi says. So of course I went and bought the shiney ones... I justified it to myself as I'll be bashing it around a skate park... As Hobbimaster says though, you can get third party ones way cheaper. I wasn't able to find out much about them though. The Peak Power Max looks a good option. Is it a good fit in the battery bay?

Cheers Hobbimaster. Made a bit more progress today but am waiting for shock oil, the 501 overdrives, and paint so things will slow down over Xmas. I also found some of the 3rd party hop ups were a lot cheaper, but found you could often get Tamiya stuff for sensible prices if you shopped about (definitely not the shocks though!) Interesting what you say about electronics: I think I'm set on the 8.5T and was wondering about the suitability of the 60A ESC, especially as it says on the spec that it good down to 11.5T buggy motors. However, I emailed HobbyKing tech support and they've still recommended their 60A. I've just emailed them again to double check... Thanks, will def have a look at the Team Peak batteries. The high traction chassis has a rounded battery tray, whereas the stock tray would have taken a rectangular battery.

On advise from your good selves I bought a DB01 (no R/RR/RRRs available). Unfortunately, I didn't follow the advise about just the essential hop ups and got carried away with shiney, ££, blue bits. Any mistakes or advise on the build would be appreciated. Observations so far: You don't seem to need hex screws or tapping tools (not done the turn buckles yet). A good JIS screwdriver is sufficient. If you've bought a load of hop ups, acquaint yourself with the R-RRR manuals as I've had to jump around the instructions a bit and go back a couple of times. Diff build No clue if I've got this right but here are a couple of tips that I hope are useful (I've gone for a 501 outdrive on the rear): "Use 10 ceramic balls, 2 steel balls, one at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o clock (this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth). Use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build up. Use Tamiya anti-wear grease in thrust race. Then cover sides of diff with a sticker or die cut covers.... PS this technique came from a TRF works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!" Use Unibond Repair Extreme glue due to its high temperature tolerance. "Some people offer the advice of tightening the diffs -all the way- and then backing the screw off a couple turns. All I can say is "PLEASE Don't Do It!!". The diff spring will become crushed an ineffective before too long and your thrust bearing and K4 parts will most likely get damaged as well. A damaged thrust bearing alone will cause problems with the diff loosening itself continually.. Replace any parts that may have already become damaged before proceeding with the steps below.. "The best way to set the diff is via the instructions on page 5 of the manual.. Unfortunately Tamiya does not explain these steps very well and the diagram they show is kind of confusing. "What they are trying to show is that it is best to tighten your diff 'just enough' so that the pulley cannot turn freely when both of the diff joints are held in place.. Basically you should tighten the screw a few turns, stick a couple allen keys between the joints, hold them in place and try to rotate the plastic pulley by hand.. If you can turn it easily, then it is too loose. Give the diff screw another turn or two and test it again until the pulley will not turn freely while the diff joints are held in place.. This is pretty much the perfect setting." Electronics Since I've already broken my budget and having read good things, I was gonna go for Trackstar electronics. I'll mainly be bashing but would like the option to race. I was gonna go for the TrackStar 8.5T Sensored Brushless Motor V2 3807KV (ROAR approved) but noticed the spec says maximum 50A. Is a 60A ESC a no go? It also says 1-2S Lipo. Does that mean it won't take a 3S? I was thinking of going 2S anyway as I'm new to rc and don't want to smash the thing up (it fits the chasis better too)? Trackstar TS-920 servo seems an easy choice.

Not been able to easily find the EZRun ESC so was thinking about a Trackstar combination. Would these be suitable? TrackStar 8.5T Sensored Brushless Motor V2 3807KV (ROAR approved) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-8-5t-sensored-brushless-motor-v2-roar-approved.html TrackStar Sportsman 60A 1/10th Scale Sensored Brushless Car ESC (ROAR APPROVED) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-sportsman-60a-1-10th-scale-sensored-brushless-car-esc.html For convenience, for the time being I plan to share batteries with my DT02. Is there much difference between the 6 cell Nimhs? If so, could anyone recommend a suitable option please?

Or an EZrun 60A with Trackstar 8.5T?

Cheers for looking. I suspect that neither Tamiya USA nor Tower Hobbies have them either. I've emailed a couple of US companies that list them as in stock but have been told that they're supplier stock and Tamiya have said they've not got any. I'm going to cut my losses and stick with my DB-01 and the £100 or so I've already spent on hop ups (I'm UK based). I don't think I'll be far off an RR/RRR set up once it's assembled, for not much more money (still reelling at the price of dampers though!) Just looking at motors/ ESC. I want something that I can race, if I want to, but that isn't so expensive it's wasted on me. I'd also like to be able to swop the batteries between my DT02. Would the EZRun 9T/ EZRun 60A be a reasonable solution that I won't outgrow too soon? (I could probably afford £20 or so more but would rather not spend if I can avoid it.)

Cancel that. Asiatees have the RR's listed in error. They're out of stock. Assume it'll be the same with Stellamodels...

Cheers for the advise. I'm look into returning the DB01 and getting the RR. I'll put the hop ups I've bought on eBay (bit irritating!) Would there be any changes I would need to make to the RR? Is all the plastic reinforced? In which case, I thought perhaps downgrading the suspension arms to the thicker basic ones. Theibault, I've seen your video. It's exactly what I'd (initially at least) be using my car for.