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About howaboutme

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  • Birthday 03/08/1976

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    Fairfax, VA, USA

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  1. Looks great. What wheels are those?
  2. Last 2 photos w/ the body and wing on: I definitely could have done a few things better but all in all, a good time and worth the effort. This will be put away for a bit before I return to put hex wheels on and have it a go outside. Until then, next project:
  3. Most chargers have the capability to set a maximum charge time. This is often used as a second safety or maintenance check as taking a long time to charge may indicate your battery is having trouble balancing (since that takes the longest usually) or something else worse. mah doesn't matter to me. Voltage is the only thing that counts for lipo. 3 #'s that you should care about, what your LV cut off is (# changes depending on your comfortability), storage charge (again, that # is fluid too) and max (full) charge.
  4. I tried w/ my HotShot re-re, no good for me. I documented it here (about half way down the page):
  5. Well, I made a mess of soldering the wires onto the motor recently. The solder went from one tab to another and I couldn't easily get it off so I had to order a solder wick/remover to help suck the extra up. Once done, I finally was able to get the three wires on. It's still tight w/ the battery but I was able to shim the battery closer to the front to leave some room between the battery and the tabs. Not great, I know. I still need to do some wire management, trim the body a bit to accept the new on/off switch but it's close to done. I did run it on the stand and slowly inside and it works fine. I will not dare to run it outside w/ the kit tires and are still looking to replace them (at least for running) with contemporary hex wheels/tires with inserts. Once I get those sorted, I will post up. I'm already looking for the next project even if this is not 100% done yet.
  6. I don't have the 1060 but use their XR10 escs. You need to program them. You can do it the fast way w/ the program box or the hard way using buttons (I think, again, I dont have the 1060). 1. It's the drag brake setting. 2. do you have this reversed?
  7. Agree with the above. Part of the fun is to upgrade, modify or otherwise adjust the base model. I find that more interesting then building the perfect machine out of the box..unless your sole intention is racing. Then yes.
  8. This is me too. I like the building and tinkering parts but hate to spend some of the money being asked of us....But yet I still do it.
  9. Trim the battery wires and soldered the XT60 onto it. Then proceeded to program the ESC. Although the photo doesn't show it, I connect it my computer to do it. Once I got the ESC programmed, I can officially close the case up and add back the front bumper: I will tackle connecting the motor next.....
  10. Yes, you're right. The specs say 132mm long and I just measured approximately 136.5/137mm. It's still shorter than some of the others so I can't complain too much. Luckily, things should work out alright.
  11. Got my battery today! I chose to go with this because of the size and price. It's as close to the Nimh as I can get w/o getting products from all around the world. Plus, already having an XT-60 is a big bonus. 1 less soldering exercise to do. 20C is nothing to die for but for this purpose, likely fine. Some comparisons: Venom is just a bit longer. Thickness is pretty similar. It fits! It does stretch the brackets at the ends a tiny bit but the battery "strap" does close though I am not showing it here. Not liking the motor wire tabs though...
  12. Rear shocks in! I did use the long eyelets from 50950. Fits great. Did some preliminary wire management and realized that the motor tabs are still a bit too far away for the wire length. So I decided to turn it 180 but in doing so the tabs are now on the lower part closest to the battery. I'm waiting on my battery before continuing so not sure what I'm going to do.
  13. I had some momentum so I continued. Front shocks are in! I realized that I already have what is needed from 50950 because it is included in the CVA shock kit for the TT-02 54753. For the front, I used the spacers from 50950/54753 and the typical screw/nut for the top and same minus the spaces for the bottom. It fits pretty well. Good clearance at the top w/ the spacers. It is tight between the springs and the front stabilizer rods though. I will have to keep an eye out.
  14. Shocks built! Despite knowing there may be binding using the gmade shock caps as others have already stated, I wanted to build them as intended first. Mostly because they look pretty awesome and second so I can see for myself depending on how I install them. I do have the Tamiya 50950 for when switching the rear and front eyelets.
  15. I'm a fan of Spektrum. I use their radios for my helis (but not batts or chargers). They do a lot of good things to get people into the hobby and for this hobby to be less intimidating. However, I think they are doing no one any favors with their mini charger offering. If you've decided to take the plunge w/ lipos, do yourself a favor, get a real charger that provides all of the basic information (it's basically standard in a full sized charger) you need to stay safe and keep your batteries healthy while understanding the information behind it. At some point, being "smart" is too smart by giving someone a false sense of security or awareness.
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