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About howaboutme

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  • Birthday 03/08/1976

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    Fairfax, VA, USA

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  1. I don't have the 1060 but use their XR10 escs. You need to program them. You can do it the fast way w/ the program box or the hard way using buttons (I think, again, I dont have the 1060). 1. It's the drag brake setting. 2. do you have this reversed?
  2. Agree with the above. Part of the fun is to upgrade, modify or otherwise adjust the base model. I find that more interesting then building the perfect machine out of the box..unless your sole intention is racing. Then yes.
  3. This is me too. I like the building and tinkering parts but hate to spend some of the money being asked of us....But yet I still do it.
  4. Trim the battery wires and soldered the XT60 onto it. Then proceeded to program the ESC. Although the photo doesn't show it, I connect it my computer to do it. Once I got the ESC programmed, I can officially close the case up and add back the front bumper: I will tackle connecting the motor next.....
  5. Yes, you're right. The specs say 132mm long and I just measured approximately 136.5/137mm. It's still shorter than some of the others so I can't complain too much. Luckily, things should work out alright.
  6. Got my battery today! I chose to go with this because of the size and price. It's as close to the Nimh as I can get w/o getting products from all around the world. Plus, already having an XT-60 is a big bonus. 1 less soldering exercise to do. 20C is nothing to die for but for this purpose, likely fine. Some comparisons: Venom is just a bit longer. Thickness is pretty similar. It fits! It does stretch the brackets at the ends a tiny bit but the battery "strap" does close though I am not showing it here. Not liking the motor wire tabs though...
  7. Rear shocks in! I did use the long eyelets from 50950. Fits great. Did some preliminary wire management and realized that the motor tabs are still a bit too far away for the wire length. So I decided to turn it 180 but in doing so the tabs are now on the lower part closest to the battery. I'm waiting on my battery before continuing so not sure what I'm going to do.
  8. I had some momentum so I continued. Front shocks are in! I realized that I already have what is needed from 50950 because it is included in the CVA shock kit for the TT-02 54753. For the front, I used the spacers from 50950/54753 and the typical screw/nut for the top and same minus the spaces for the bottom. It fits pretty well. Good clearance at the top w/ the spacers. It is tight between the springs and the front stabilizer rods though. I will have to keep an eye out.
  9. Shocks built! Despite knowing there may be binding using the gmade shock caps as others have already stated, I wanted to build them as intended first. Mostly because they look pretty awesome and second so I can see for myself depending on how I install them. I do have the Tamiya 50950 for when switching the rear and front eyelets.
  10. I'm a fan of Spektrum. I use their radios for my helis (but not batts or chargers). They do a lot of good things to get people into the hobby and for this hobby to be less intimidating. However, I think they are doing no one any favors with their mini charger offering. If you've decided to take the plunge w/ lipos, do yourself a favor, get a real charger that provides all of the basic information (it's basically standard in a full sized charger) you need to stay safe and keep your batteries healthy while understanding the information behind it. At some point, being "smart" is too smart by giving someone a false sense of security or awareness.
  11. Thanks for the suggestions! To be honest, I'm trying to simplify and since I'm not racing, tires should last a while. In the meantime, I'm still figuring out which wheels.
  12. Ah okay, thank you. I'm torn as to which wheels to get. I will always keep the kit wheels for display but prefer to go with something more robust when running as I'm going to add a good amount of juice to the car. I started out by wanting to go w/ the Dark Impact wheels but sourcing them are difficult/near impossible right now. That led me to look at the contemporary wheels/tires (which led me to this question). My issue is that I don't want to have to source new wheels each time I need to replace worn tires as I glue them on. If I went with contemporary wheels, that will not be a problem. Currently, neither the dark impact wheels or the egress wheels are easy to find.
  13. Need a pro tip, please. I'm looking to replace my hotshot re-re w/ hex wheels and in doing so, realized there's a huge sub category of wheels. Take Amain for example, one of my go to online shops (US). They have the following sub categories under buggy: 2wd front, 4wd front and rear. I understand that a 4wd car's front is different and usually thicker than 2wd. But what's the difference between a 4wd front and a rear wheel? I find some info that 4wd front are 27mm but can't find credible information for others. Is a 4wd front the same as a rear? When looking at the actual tires (as opposed to wheel specs), there seems to be differences in width for 4wd front from one to another. Anyone want to give me a lesson? Thanks!
  14. Yes, that is an option. Side note. Once I put the cage on and secured the bar into that, it gave a bit more room between link and motor. After thinking about this, I will want to keep the bar so will make adjustments as necessary. Thanks!
  15. One of the things annoying about these types of chassis is that you have to be all done with your electronics, settings and all, before you enclose the electronics box. I don't have everything I need to do that yet so I can't really finish this update just yet. But I did secure both the receiver and the ESC. It's tight but more than enough room for the wires and enough room for me to pull the ESC wire for programming later. I did dremel the hole facing the motor to allow for the 3 motor wires, the sensor, receiver antenna and the switch to exit out. The key here is to make the hole large enough so the wires don't bind but not too large so it allows bad stuff to get in. I mean, that's why Tamiya designed these enclosed chassis, right? The Hobbywing switch obviously doesn't fit in the originally designed location (I was secretly hoping it would) so it has to go outside on the side. I was disappointed that I had to order extra hardware/screws (expensive), etc but they arrived so I could proceed on the shock upgrades. The rear tower is now in. Again, was hoping to keep the fake heat sinks but oh well. I will eventually change to hex wheels. The kit wheels will get torn up w/ the brushless power, I'm sure. I still need to figure out battery. I think I'm going to get this: https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-2s-100c-sigraphene-hv-lipo-stick-pack-tcs-battery-7.6v-5000mah-ptk-5129-19/p942346 I haven't checked the fitment but it's supposed to fit. I like the 100C, will give the car some extra juice. I will change the to an XT60 though. Since I don't have another 2C battery w/ an XT60 plug, I will wait to do the ESC programming until I do so it can be powered up. Next step: Gmade shock assembly.
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