Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

215 Excellent

About howaboutme

  • Rank
  • Birthday 03/08/1976

Profile Information

  • Location
    Fairfax, VA, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

1407 profile views
  1. It doesn't have to be the exact one. You can piece the parts bags together separately. If you correlate each part w/ the hardware needed via the HSII manual you can start to jot down what you need. That's essentially what I did. To be honest, I only used less than 15% of the hardware that I ordered so it was a bit of a waste. But I did add to my parts stash.
  2. Hi there, glad the thread was a help. I think it'll be difficult for me to provide the screw specs. However, what I did was pretty simple. I just used the HSII manual. Since I used 99% stock parts, I knew the screws would work. Even w/ the 3rd party suspension system, the attachment method was similar. After long research, I realized the most of what I needed was in a parts bag set. You can get those on Ebay. Here is what I bought exactly, not very expensive: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TAMIYA-SUPERSHOT-Screws-Hardware-HOTSHOT-BOOMERANG-SUPER-TP17/132417183557 I did have to dig in a few times into my own stash. If you have a long history w/ Tamiya, your stash may have what you need already. My stash wasn't up to par so I had to supplement w/ the extra parts bags. Let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck!
  3. Thank you very much! Just wondering what else I can do w/ it? LOL!
  4. Check out my build thread here: Go to the 2nd page. I documented everything. My upgrade was also part of adding a brushless setup so it's a bit more in depth. I have to be honest, I have not run it. Got distracted and I'm much more of a tinkerer on the bench than a runner anyways. Let me know if you have questions. If you need actual part #'s (that are not documented here or in my other thread), it'll take some time but I'm happy to do it. Thanks!
  5. Looks great. What wheels are those?
  6. Last 2 photos w/ the body and wing on: I definitely could have done a few things better but all in all, a good time and worth the effort. This will be put away for a bit before I return to put hex wheels on and have it a go outside. Until then, next project:
  7. Most chargers have the capability to set a maximum charge time. This is often used as a second safety or maintenance check as taking a long time to charge may indicate your battery is having trouble balancing (since that takes the longest usually) or something else worse. mah doesn't matter to me. Voltage is the only thing that counts for lipo. 3 #'s that you should care about, what your LV cut off is (# changes depending on your comfortability), storage charge (again, that # is fluid too) and max (full) charge.
  8. I tried w/ my HotShot re-re, no good for me. I documented it here (about half way down the page):
  9. Well, I made a mess of soldering the wires onto the motor recently. The solder went from one tab to another and I couldn't easily get it off so I had to order a solder wick/remover to help suck the extra up. Once done, I finally was able to get the three wires on. It's still tight w/ the battery but I was able to shim the battery closer to the front to leave some room between the battery and the tabs. Not great, I know. I still need to do some wire management, trim the body a bit to accept the new on/off switch but it's close to done. I did run it on the stand and slowly inside and it works fine. I will not dare to run it outside w/ the kit tires and are still looking to replace them (at least for running) with contemporary hex wheels/tires with inserts. Once I get those sorted, I will post up. I'm already looking for the next project even if this is not 100% done yet.
  10. I don't have the 1060 but use their XR10 escs. You need to program them. You can do it the fast way w/ the program box or the hard way using buttons (I think, again, I dont have the 1060). 1. It's the drag brake setting. 2. do you have this reversed?
  11. Agree with the above. Part of the fun is to upgrade, modify or otherwise adjust the base model. I find that more interesting then building the perfect machine out of the box..unless your sole intention is racing. Then yes.
  12. This is me too. I like the building and tinkering parts but hate to spend some of the money being asked of us....But yet I still do it.
  13. Trim the battery wires and soldered the XT60 onto it. Then proceeded to program the ESC. Although the photo doesn't show it, I connect it my computer to do it. Once I got the ESC programmed, I can officially close the case up and add back the front bumper: I will tackle connecting the motor next.....
  14. Yes, you're right. The specs say 132mm long and I just measured approximately 136.5/137mm. It's still shorter than some of the others so I can't complain too much. Luckily, things should work out alright.
  15. Got my battery today! I chose to go with this because of the size and price. It's as close to the Nimh as I can get w/o getting products from all around the world. Plus, already having an XT-60 is a big bonus. 1 less soldering exercise to do. 20C is nothing to die for but for this purpose, likely fine. Some comparisons: Venom is just a bit longer. Thickness is pretty similar. It fits! It does stretch the brackets at the ends a tiny bit but the battery "strap" does close though I am not showing it here. Not liking the motor wire tabs though...
  • Create New...