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About didcos

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  1. There might be some japanese/korean rivality in the fact that tamiya never provided adapters for hitec servos.
  2. I have yet to see a smooth gearbox on these kyosho trucks (I have three of them). I dont think the problem comes from the gears but rather from the gearbox casings.
  3. I also fell into the "bad boomerang trap". Overall it cost me more than a re-re kit ;-) At least it was fun bringing it back to life. Back to the subject: I have yet to see a vintage used hotshot-based car without any split arms or geabox. But an hairline crack doesn't mean you have to change the part. Sometimes it will last a while before being broken. Most of my geabox have splits in the screw pits but none of them have given up yet. Same cannot be said about the arms. If you intend to run it, do so until you really breake something. Usually the rear arms will go first. 10£ later it runs again. Or, as other people said, sell it and buy a rere. It really depends if you want the real deal or if you're not that bothered. I'm aso restoring a vintage supershot. I maybe shouldn't say restore because I put some rere rear arms on it! I understand collectors willing to keep their vintage models 100% original but personnaly, when the part looks exactly the same (even if the material itself is not), I'm not too bothered. It's all about bringing the car back to life, with whatever is available. Rere, 3D printed or whatever.
  4. Well, 1800$ for a blazing blazer or $166 for a blazing star, I don't know which is the better deal
  5. It's not a tamiya motor. It was sold in two different packagings with 2 slightly differnt stickers on the motor, one saying "produced by corally" and the other saying "produced by orion". It was one of the motor authorized in the tamiya cup in some categories, during the mid to late 90s (TA03 era). Regarding specs, I seem to remember 18T but I'm not 100% sure.
  6. As you asked about the 89-92 period, here's what I know: Tamiya had their CPR units. The PF-100 and 160 could handle some modified motors but they were never competition grade.. Futaba had their MC110, MC111, MC112. The later was pretty common but only good for standard silver can. The other two could handle some hotter motors but I'm not sure they were that common at high level competition KO Propo had their CX-1 and CX-2. The first one won some world championships. The ZX400 and ZX500 might have appeared during that period but I'm not sure if they were used in competition. Novak released their "410" series ESC around '91. Good stuff.
  7. Hi there. As you mentionned swizerland I few times, we might be neighbours 😄 Very interesting long post. Sorry if it seemed I was listing "facts", I was just giving my opinion on why I think it will not happen anytime soon, using whatever little information and knowledge I have available. I am in no way an insider or even have any link to insiders. Just a fan, like most around here. Regarding the molds, you are right, we need to be careful about rumours. I might be repeating what people have been saying for years all over the internet. But a few of these people seem to be well connected so I take that into account when forming an opinion. I didn't know about the king cab beeing blow-molded, I was under the impression that this techique was forgotten after the problems of the 959/celica bodies. I am in no way an expert on making lexan bodies but I was under the impression that some parts of these bodies would be difficult to make using the standard technique. Maybe I'm wrong. Your comment about the MF-01X chassi is interesting. I was thinking that IF tamiya ever decide to make a 959, it would be on some kind of M-Chassis.. As I said, I really hope I'm wrong. Even tough I have a few of the originals, I'd probably buy both the celica and 959 if they were re-released again, just to be able to drive them without worrying too much.
  8. I use 12% peroxyde hair cream. It usually only take a few hours in direct sunlight for the parts to be good enough.
  9. Here they are the main ones: 1) The body. Tamiya doesn't have the mould for the Celica and 959 bodies anymore. These body were made using a "reverse mould" in order to have some really excellent details (and the result was some very fragile bodies). As far as I know, this technique hasn't been used on other models since then. Sure, Tamiya could create new mould using the standard method but that costs money. And a lot of detail would be lost. I'm not even sure the lower part of the bumpers could be moulded correctly. We could also talk about licensing, not really from toyota or porsche but from all the companies which have their logos on the cars. 2) The chassis. It sure looks very nice but the way the gearboxes are attached to the main chassis is a joke. Especially the link between the main chassis and rear part. Any small jump and the chassis will break there. A realy lack of rigidity and definitely not strong enough to be driven nowadays. Up to now, Tamiya has tried to correct the weaker points in their models when re-releasing their models. Well, at least some of the main ones 😄 . I can't see how you could make that chassis strong enough without some major re-design. Don't get me wrong, I like those cars. Despite their faults, they are really iconic. I just can't see them being re-released, expecially when there are so many other models that tamiya could make a buck from re-releasing with a lot less trouble. I hope I'm wrong
  10. Don't get your hope up guys, the 959/celica is one of the least likely tamiya models to be ever re-released. Not impossible but too many factors against it. The Super Astute was a good surprise this year. Let's hope we get something as fresh next year. A lot of people are hoping to see a Falcon. It might take a few years but my guess is at some point it will happen.
  11. ABS bodies can be repaired using products such as "plastic weld". As it names sais it will weld two styrene parts together and the bond will be much better than any glue. You can also dillute some styrene bits (part trees with the PS symbol for example) in acetone and use the resulting paste as a filler.
  12. If Mark doesn't take it, I would be interested. I also have half a hotshot that I 'm trying to bring back to life. Let me know
  13. 1) I don't own any rere but my understanding is this: all vintage Hotshot/supershot/Boomerang/Big Wig/Super Sabre/etc. gearboxes are more or less the same. There are a few little differences between early and late ones but they should all fit each model based on the hotshot/boomerang chassis. Re-Released gearbox are not the same as vintage ones. They have been modified to allow the use of e-clips and you cannot used e-clips in vintage gearboxes because you don't have room for them. 2) Original Boomerang, Super sabre and Hot Shot II use the same identical 4 dogbones. These 3 models have the same front/rear suspension arms and uprights. Hotshot and supershot have other front uprights and rear arms. So front dogbones are slightly shorter. Hotshot and Supershot dogbones shape is different but I think they should fit each model. I think re-Released dogbones, axles and cups are different, they look like manta ray parts.
  14. Hi, I'm in the process of rebuilding an old 959 that was in a really bad condition, with lots of broken parts. Over the last few months, I found almost evething needed but now the only parts missing are the R1 and R2 rear hubs. Mine are just too damaged to do anything. Does somebody have some spare to sell or a clue on where I could find them? Thanks.
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