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About didcos

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  1. Take that kind of info with a pinch of salt. I'll believe it when I hear it from tamiya. They're usually very good at keeping everything inhouse and It's very rare that information about future re-release filters though.
  2. I don't have a fixed cut off point, I collect what I like. But most of what I like is pre-92, which roughly corresponds to the first 120. But I've also got quite a few newer models, mainly rally/touring cars from the mid to late 90s, because I like the bodies. And a few special models like the juggernault, because they're cool.
  3. Similar to the previous release, the front fenders still look like the regular Cosworth fenders. On the Escort WRC, there should be a bump in the center of the wheelarch. Nevertheless, I'll probably get a body.
  4. Out of the four models you mention, the vintage 3 speed (Hilux or Blazer) might be the one that would be the most enjoyable. They are so different from anything else and technically quite interesting. At some point in a vintage tamiya collection, you gotta get one. Prices are a problem, especially if you look on ebay. Four figures is too much but you can probably find a nice project for the price of a few regular kits. Whenever I buy something a bit expensive, I say too myself: with the same amount I could have bought X TT01 kits. And then I realise it makes sense, from a basic enjoyment perspective as well as from a financial one as you would probably get your money back should you decide to sell it in a few years. I like the three others but they are no as special. As you said, the ORV chassis is pretty common so It's difficult to splash hundreds on the 037. The Kyosho monster trucks are cool but having restored a few, they feel quite 'cheap' compared to a clodbuster for example. I'm not sure building a NIB one would be such a great experience. You can find used ones for little money so restoring one might be the way to go. I've never had one of the early on-road 1/12 cars. They look great, especially the Datsun Z, but I've always felt they are a bit too "simple" from a technical point of view to justifiy paying the price. Personally, I don't. I've never bought much on ebay so I don't feel I'm beeing priced out of much. Also, I've never actively looked for a particular model. I usually buy whatever good deal I can find on the local market and it's served me well up to now.
  5. I'm usually quite critical of repro bodies and stickers, as some are quite bad. But the TBG 959 body fits the chassis quite well and small details are OK. The 959 MCI stickers are good quality.
  6. Very nice! Did you paint it camel yellow? I did mine and i turned out way too orange. Yours looks quite close to the boxart.
  7. If you can't find someone willing to part with an original one, just order these https://www.shapeways.com/product/XW9YBXW6C/959-fronthub-ball-cup-8-sprue?optionId=60858932&li=marketplace
  8. Congrats, you got a great deal there. Sometimes when something's too good to be true, it actually is true! There are 8x E12, which are specific to the 959. The hold the ball ends on the front knuckles. I think you can probably order a set of 3D printed from shapeways.
  9. There are a lot of good deals out there. Nowadays you gotta look beyond ebay. Local classifieds, local auctions, swap meets etc. I found many nice models this year. Lots of people who are not rc enthusiasts had time to sort through their stuff and list their old rc cars for sale.
  10. My hornet would enjoy some new decals ;-) But maybe someone local to you might benefit more if postage to europe is too steep.
  11. Nice job! Regarding the axle guards, it's just a bad design. Mine have cracks at the exact same spot. I stopped driving before completely breaking them and reinforced them with CNC-made small aluminium plates on each side, using metric screws through the 3 available holes.
  12. I'm interested in those if still available. I've got some QD stuff to give away. Four brand new red rims, 2 used white rims and a gearbox with broken casing.
  13. Tamiya putty (as well as other products that dry with air) should not be used to fill holes. The solvent from the TS spray will make it shrink. These kind of products should only be used to correct very small defects or scratches. For anything bigger, you're much safer using 2-components fillers. Another good way to fill holes is to use styrene and acetone.
  14. are the Fire Dragon and Focus WRC manuals still available? If so, can I have them please?
  15. I wouldn't use glue. If it's styrene based, with products like "Plastic Weld" or even acetone, you can weld it back together. After that, I would suggest drilling it back to 2.5mm as the hole might have become a little bit smaller. Then use an M3 metric tap to make a new thread and replace the tapping screw with a metric one.
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