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About didcos

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  1. I think it will work. From what I remember, Astute and King cab dogbones are the same length. Original King Cab dogbones are howerer slightly thicker in the center section.
  2. Today I had a vision, I saw a Bear Hawk for 2020
  3. You won't get the right red color with only 1 coat. I recently painted a clodbuster body. I gave it easily 3 or 4 coats of red over white primer and a few coats of clear varnish on top. When painting an ABS hard body, preparation and patience are key. Take your time, let the paint cure, lightly sand any imperfection before doing another coat. It should take days or even weeks to properly do it.
  4. If you want to correctly test your rear gearbox, remove the motor and center prop shaft. Turn the propeller joint by hand. Everything should turn smoothly, without any hard spot. In my experience, with the avante gearbox, problems often comes from the 2 bevel gears that are too close to each other, either because the center ball diff has not been tightened properly or has not been correctly assembled. Once, I spent hours figuring out what was wrong and it turned out that the 5 spring washers inside the center diff were not the right ones (0.4mm instead of 0.3mm thickness). A few 1/10s of mm and bevel gears won't mesh correctly.
  5. Try to fully tighten the diff if that's not already the case. Unless i'ts properly tightened, conical gears won't mesh properly.
  6. My guess is that we'll see something on the Thundershot chassis
  7. Thanks for sharing. I really admire your masking skills. I hand painted all the window trim and details on mine, which looks quite good. But your work is clearly another level!
  8. They are not meant to be opened. They are quite collectible and performance wise, not that different from a silver can. So even if com and brushes are very worn, it would make a nice display motor.
  9. Looks like tires from the Kyosho 405 T16 and RS200
  10. Current projects: Clodbuster: detail painting, stickers, strip paint on rims, install electronics Bear Hawk: body paint & stickers TXT-1: reinforce bumper mounts with small aluminium plates on the bottom where the links are attached. Install electronics. 959: Stickers Celica Grp.B: paint some yellow rims in white Striker: too many things to do.... TB03: 3D print some servo mounts Terra Scorcher: paint driver Toyot Hilux 4x4 Pickup #1: body paint & stickers Toyot Hilux 4x4 Pickup #2: strip, clean and put back together. Repaint body. Blazing Blazer: body paint + stickers. Work on the resin roof. Try to find some Blazier wheels since it was originally an Hilux. Audi quattro 58036: buy TBG body, repair front grill Blackfoot: Find an original body Hilux Monster Racer: body paint + stickers Some of these will be finished soon, some might take a few more years, depending on motivation. I have to restrain myselft not to start something else until I finish a project. Very difficult since there are some very interesting cars waiting.
  11. There might be some japanese/korean rivality in the fact that tamiya never provided adapters for hitec servos.
  12. I have yet to see a smooth gearbox on these kyosho trucks (I have three of them). I dont think the problem comes from the gears but rather from the gearbox casings.
  13. I also fell into the "bad boomerang trap". Overall it cost me more than a re-re kit ;-) At least it was fun bringing it back to life. Back to the subject: I have yet to see a vintage used hotshot-based car without any split arms or geabox. But an hairline crack doesn't mean you have to change the part. Sometimes it will last a while before being broken. Most of my geabox have splits in the screw pits but none of them have given up yet. Same cannot be said about the arms. If you intend to run it, do so until you really breake something. Usually the rear arms will go first. 10£ later it runs again. Or, as other people said, sell it and buy a rere. It really depends if you want the real deal or if you're not that bothered. I'm aso restoring a vintage supershot. I maybe shouldn't say restore because I put some rere rear arms on it! I understand collectors willing to keep their vintage models 100% original but personnaly, when the part looks exactly the same (even if the material itself is not), I'm not too bothered. It's all about bringing the car back to life, with whatever is available. Rere, 3D printed or whatever.
  14. Well, 1800$ for a blazing blazer or $166 for a blazing star, I don't know which is the better deal
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