didcos

This looks like a TL-01 clone (HBX Bonzer or similar). I've had a few and they had the same elctronics.

This is bad news for those of us hoping for a madcap re-release. Not sure how it affects the prospects of an astute or even king cab release but it certainly doesn't help.

What kind of motor pinion are you using? compatible pinions are quite difficult to find for the hilux. The orignal motor had the pinion pressed on the shaft.

Nice but the shouldn't the AS3 be on the other side?

The two Hilux gearbox I opened had a mixture of brass and aluminium gears but I read somewhere that later gearboxes only had brass gears. It will be interesting to see yours.

Very nice! I remember reading somewhere that there were 2 versions of the hilux speed controller but I had never seen this one before. If I had to guess, I'd say you probably also have the updated gearbox. Looking forward to seeing more photos of the truck!

Personnaly I like to use JBweld. Easy to apply and sands really well. Only downside is the long drying time (20 hours).

No surprise here, the solvant in the spray cans softens the putty underneath, even if there are many coat of paints in between. It's usually okay until you do the last wet coat hoping to achieve a good finish. Then you end up with that. After ruining a few paintjobs, I now only use 1 component putty like the tamiya ones to correct very very small defects. Whenever you have to fill a gap, 2-components putty is the way to go. The hardener will prevent the solvant from attacking the putty. Other good solutions are using CA glue, styrene dissolved in acetone or 2-components epoxy.

That looks good. I had similar results with peroxyde which I was very pleased about. But after storing the car for 6 months in a box, I pulled it out and noticed the yellow has come back. Has someone had lasting results using peroxyde?

a brand new TA01 grey chassis is quite rare and therefore sought after.

I like the lego servo mounts!

Take that kind of info with a pinch of salt. I'll believe it when I hear it from tamiya. They're usually very good at keeping everything inhouse and It's very rare that information about future re-release filters though.

I don't have a fixed cut off point, I collect what I like. But most of what I like is pre-92, which roughly corresponds to the first 120. But I've also got quite a few newer models, mainly rally/touring cars from the mid to late 90s, because I like the bodies. And a few special models like the juggernault, because they're cool.

Similar to the previous release, the front fenders still look like the regular Cosworth fenders. On the Escort WRC, there should be a bump in the center of the wheelarch. Nevertheless, I'll probably get a body.

Out of the four models you mention, the vintage 3 speed (Hilux or Blazer) might be the one that would be the most enjoyable. They are so different from anything else and technically quite interesting. At some point in a vintage tamiya collection, you gotta get one. Prices are a problem, especially if you look on ebay. Four figures is too much but you can probably find a nice project for the price of a few regular kits. Whenever I buy something a bit expensive, I say too myself: with the same amount I could have bought X TT01 kits. And then I realise it makes sense, from a basic enjoyment perspective as well as from a financial one as you would probably get your money back should you decide to sell it in a few years. I like the three others but they are no as special. As you said, the ORV chassis is pretty common so It's difficult to splash hundreds on the 037. The Kyosho monster trucks are cool but having restored a few, they feel quite 'cheap' compared to a clodbuster for example. I'm not sure building a NIB one would be such a great experience. You can find used ones for little money so restoring one might be the way to go. I've never had one of the early on-road 1/12 cars. They look great, especially the Datsun Z, but I've always felt they are a bit too "simple" from a technical point of view to justifiy paying the price. Personally, I don't. I've never bought much on ebay so I don't feel I'm beeing priced out of much. Also, I've never actively looked for a particular model. I usually buy whatever good deal I can find on the local market and it's served me well up to now.

I'm usually quite critical of repro bodies and stickers, as some are quite bad. But the TBG 959 body fits the chassis quite well and small details are OK. The 959 MCI stickers are good quality.

Very nice! Did you paint it camel yellow? I did mine and i turned out way too orange. Yours looks quite close to the boxart.

If you can't find someone willing to part with an original one, just order these https://www.shapeways.com/product/XW9YBXW6C/959-fronthub-ball-cup-8-sprue?optionId=60858932&li=marketplace

Congrats, you got a great deal there. Sometimes when something's too good to be true, it actually is true! There are 8x E12, which are specific to the 959. The hold the ball ends on the front knuckles. I think you can probably order a set of 3D printed from shapeways.

There are a lot of good deals out there. Nowadays you gotta look beyond ebay. Local classifieds, local auctions, swap meets etc. I found many nice models this year. Lots of people who are not rc enthusiasts had time to sort through their stuff and list their old rc cars for sale.

My hornet would enjoy some new decals ;-) But maybe someone local to you might benefit more if postage to europe is too steep.

Nice job! Regarding the axle guards, it's just a bad design. Mine have cracks at the exact same spot. I stopped driving before completely breaking them and reinforced them with CNC-made small aluminium plates on each side, using metric screws through the 3 available holes.

I'm interested in those if still available. I've got some QD stuff to give away. Four brand new red rims, 2 used white rims and a gearbox with broken casing.

Tamiya putty (as well as other products that dry with air) should not be used to fill holes. The solvent from the TS spray will make it shrink. These kind of products should only be used to correct very small defects or scratches. For anything bigger, you're much safer using 2-components fillers. Another good way to fill holes is to use styrene and acetone.

are the Fire Dragon and Focus WRC manuals still available? If so, can I have them please?