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geniusanthony

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Everything posted by geniusanthony

  1. I can't answer that without knowing the geometry involved. TBH if everything clears and the distance between the servo center (screw) and the ball studs is similar it won't matter too much.
  2. I'll play. 2wd or 4wd?
  3. Axial EXO Rear Light Bezel and Radiator Set #AX80103 Found it.
  4. As far as rear lights go, someone and I do not know who makes a class 4 rear bar that also echos the 4 light bar at the back of a prerunner. Class rules for the err... Classes dictate two reds and a blue and orange for dust. Would be appropriate on a desert buggy. Does anyone here know that company and part number?
  5. Also, not directly addressed here but my Agrios scheme was painted on the inside. It was a lot of work
  6. You can also get reverse printed decals. Apply to clear polycarbonate on the inside. Paint over top.
  7. The FWD m cars are pretty fun. Can recommend. The handling is different and very fun. I would hesitate due to the lower ground clearance but you could always get the mf01 parts trees to get the m05RA parts. Put bearings in during assembly because the chassis is the transmission.
  8. HS-645s are great servos non-standard 24 spline though. The kit supplied servo saver parts fit a 23 and 25 spline. If you have a shop nearby, it should be a simple matter to find an aftermarket servo saver with the appropriate dimensions. If you are in the US, I recommend Kimbrough #123 as they are generally very available.
  9. Not at all, just share pics so I will know if they look right on the Agrios shell before I use mine😁. Kinda off -topic but I have always thought about putting the xtraspeed ABS raptor shell on a TXT-2, since all the other monster releases came with a hardbody. Rcmart shipping to the US makes it a tough pill to swallow though.
  10. I would hate to waste good decals, they seem to be harder to find than a new shell usually.
  11. Luckily, any broken parts for the SRB cars have been rere'd. Glad that you are giving it new life. I would think that a soda blasting should be enough to make quick work of the paint. Glass bead might make for some difficulty in polishing back up. Good luck with the resto.
  12. Could it have been the backing color and are bodies still available? If you have to get it off, better sooner that later I would think. I have never had much luck removing PS paint due to different chemicals in different regions at least for the US it seems.
  13. Got an HKS Skyline and a Top Force and 3 sets of Hi-caps. Happy days. Also a licensed Bigfoot 18 decal set from JB scale graphics
  14. I tried a set on my Wild One, they do fit and are ever so slightly wider than the standard 3 rib buggy tire. Have not driven them as I am waiting to test the RC4wd 1.9 sand paddles at the same time.
  15. Another pricing thing to look forward to is the Black Friday sale. Should be on at Tamiyausa in 6ish weeks. I got an M05R last year for 150 shipped. I will definitely save a few purchases until then.
  16. Good news, thanks for sharing. I had all but stopped looking at tower. All my business was going to Tamico.
  17. From what you mentioned, on your list, TXT is without a doubt a worthy addition. Old design but years ahead of the other shaft drive monsters. Handling is nice, trans and axles are strong. People spend bookoo money on SMTs to make them decent versus the only thing TXT needs is silver cans on 3s and will be plenty to start. Building and running vids here https://www.youtube.com/user/geniusanthony
  18. The color editions are fun on the cheaper models. I have a few lunchy colors as well as a candy green grasshopper and happened across the body, wheels and decals for a black edition. Unless there is a unique decal pack or hopefully a re re or even re-hashing of og clod decals I too am unimpressed.
  19. Something interesting about the Kyosho Re-re's is that they seem to keep making them. There was a time when the Tomahawk and maybe some others were shown as discontinued and I was only able to find one in stock at Tamico. Presently, all of the legendary series continues to be available. Hopefully people keep buying them and the new owners continue to bring back the classics.
  20. The grey is what I use, the red is a bit much for and plastic as it adds noticeable scrathes
  21. That's too bad, with my Blackfoot hardbody, I am fairly certain that the problem was incompatibly if not bad paint ( which sounds suspect ). Here is a chart of the different pads just as an fyi https://www.vikingtapes.co.uk/collections/3m-scotch-brite-hand-pads You say you use them for weapons? I'm nearly retired from the military but can't say that I've ever though to use my auto body stash on them. Doesn't that remove blueing from the bolt and components?
  22. A thread is a forum topic, e.g., you started a thread on "just bought loft find". The entymology of the word probably has to do with world wide web, just guessing on that last bit...
  23. I am intrigued, Is there a thread on this one?
  24. @Apollo11 I don't know if I ever covered it in the vid but my problems early on had to do with the incompatibility of the different kinds of paints, Eg, Urethane Enamel(which was the custom mix) and the Lacquer primer. Tamiya TS spays are to my knowledge all lacquer based, Which is great because they go on thin, dry quickly to a hard finish and are durable. To answer your question, yes, thin coats always to avoid runs. Keep it clean and keying the surface (green Scotch-Brite pad) aids adhesion as well. For those that didn't know, those 3M scotch pads come in 5 colors with 5 levels of abrasive. Quality auto store should carry them, worldwide I would presume... because 3M.
  25. @Apollo11 I agree with all of the above and can add the following moving picture show. I nearly ruined a Blackfoot with several problems during painting. Eventually got it. See here
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