Jump to content

geniusanthony

Members
  • Content Count

    422
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by geniusanthony

  1. I like your trucks and appreciate that someone else is giving the CR01 some love. This was the first crawler type truck I built, before clods and txts.and bruisers. The first time I drove it over a bed of 6-8 inch stones (rip-rap) I was amazed at how well it just wen My BF bodied one is below just to share, though I don't want it to seem like I'm doing the Facebook group thing and just attaching images.
  2. My first true monster truck was a super clod and I really enjoyed building and running it. I don't think that a good monster can be beaten for general backyard running. Can't go wrong with either really. The only negative is the gateway drug aspect. At present I have 3 Clods 2 TXT2s an SMT and a pair of black editions for a rainy day. With prices where they are now, a clod makes for a really good deal as well. Juggs are seemingly rare. You really have a tough choice. If you get a black, I would suggest getting some runner wheels as the black chrome wheels are not available seperately
  3. Is there any follow up to this Willy?
  4. https://www.youtube.com/user/geniusanthony No worries, You must be on mobile. Signatures don't show up except on PC or desktop view.
  5. If you click down below and find the Blackfoot videos I had a whole saga of getting my BF CR01 just right.
  6. Thanks Ax. It was a bit tedious to get the matching of colors. The recipe for turning blue parts purple for instance turned out to be diluted hot pink RIT dyemore until the right shade got picked up. Incidentally I still need to re -dye all those test parts for putting together the next truck. I am custom machining my own ally frame using stock clod dimensions. If you have seen it in one of the FB pages, the tailgate has something special for my daughter. It's all masked, just awaiting some more ps-5. Masking is TPU at 0.5 mm stuck with glue stuck to the lexan with glue stick. I used that for adhering it to my print bed for easy release with hot water.
  7. Not as long as the base coat has cured thoroughly. You used TS (lacquer based) paint which cures relatively fast. I used the same mountain peak masking sheets on my coral and purple Super Clod, you'll find that the stripe border will help to conceal the masked edge a bit too. When it comes time to decal do you know about the soapy water/ window cleaner trick for extra positioning time?
  8. I still haven't picked which tires to run, the lighting kit is designed and built for the JConcepts Silverado body. I am deciding the best way to do the lights. I have small polycarb lenses I have printed that I think I will utilize. The grill itself is installed inside of the shell and I think looks realistic enough for what I was trying to accomplish while still offering some protection. I don't think that it needs it, maybe on a future version I will see how it works to actually cut out the opening for the grill and taillights to install flush. That is how they are designed but I don't believe it necessary. I do realize that actual monster trucks don't have lights but this is a Clod, and Clods look best with a detailed nose to me. Here is the first vid below.Next one is recorded, should get edited relatively fast. Feel free to comment or give me ideas for this or the next one. I sort of want to do another with at least a color flip or...
  9. I'll start this one how all project start as first the idea of a modern Clod with a few subtle changes to add some influences from the same model of Hornet. Namely the few challenges were how to get enough pink and purple on the axles and chassis without going overboard. I have a JW Hornet unbuilt with a few spares such as gearbox in purple, bumper and some other parts that I could use as samples to try and mix the right color. This begins my path down the rabbit hole Somewhere I had read from a restoration thread that PS paints work well on abs parts and that they take the paint well, perhaps that it etched into the plastic a bit and left a reasonable shine. So that's what I tried on some test pieces only to find that PS purple is much too dark, too much blue and not bright enough. Eventually through some tests I found that where I had sprayed florescent pink and then purple next to it the transition color was very close. I next tried decanting PS spray using a a straw and a few videos as guidance. It worked but made an awful mess. Some quick work in fusion and I had designed a reasonable nozzle for a press fit straw that worked well after printing it out. The 3 pictures below are the roller I bought for parts, somewhere in the middle and recently.
  10. I didn't catch where you were from, something to keep in mind regarding the annoyance is that we are now in a rtr world. It seems very few outside of the Tamiya community even bother painting their own shells, all over FB you see questions like, will this body fit this car etc...when in reality the only variables to what fits are dimensions that are usually stated if one is willing to read a bit of documentation. In the end, clear coat or not, the choice is left up to the builder in determining the path that they want to take. The only benefit to clear is sealing the edges of the decals and evening out the gloss due to the inherent black magic of painting with spray cans. Point is, you can't be sour at the shop because they probably don't know any better, again b/c of this rtr world we live in.
  11. I've finished this little Clod, the details on the grill and taillights for the Jconcepts 88 Silverado shell are forthcoming in a full video with purchase links. Not trying to sell so much as to share my work
  12. You are not wrong, I offer that we have our weaknesses and they have theirs. On the bonus side of the equation she doesn't mind a new kit showing up because presents. I did say that I have become a bit more mindful of my purchases, which isn't the worst thing. The attic is only so big for the NIB collection. That's not to say a few might slide through before I start getting the look.
  13. I have a deal with my wife. She doesn't get mad or do any of the "you bought another truck" stare down, instead she or I order a new color of those Tieks flats that are popular in the states. Kinda forces me to be slightly choosier to what I buy.
  14. What I would do is mask and respray the damaged part on the outside, possibly feather in to the surrounding area and then hit the whole body with ps55 flat clear, then ts13 clear then polish. Maybe mask the windows for that part. Filler I would think to be bad juju. I see you have a printer, print a .1 millimeter panel of lexan and sand sand sand. Or. Got any favorite stickers about "yay big"? Bear in mind I haven't tried any of these things, I'm just thinking through what I would try.
  15. It is only day 1 of the fair. Do they typically leave anything on the table to release later in the week? Personally I am excited for the Miata as I don't yet have an M06 same for the 911 (no TA03), R5 and CLK for the bodysets even though I already have one of each boxed. New touring truck is good, I'll have to bring mine to the track one if these days and see if others start to turn up in time.
  16. Well written thread. I like the path you are taking with the truck as well with the home sawn components. I have to ask as I'm in a similar stage of my own project and also using Fusion360 for my design work. When transferring a paper printout to the material, do you pick up any errors from original design to printout and what format are you exporting your drawings to for patterning your final part? I had intended to blue the aluminum, scribe, punch, drill and mill based on dimensions but didn't want to commit without a means to double check as I go from a digital design to a physical part.
  17. Good job on that. When I read the title I too though of the touring car movement as having started the chassis naming convention. I have a 58099 in the attic, I should have a look if it says TA01 on it anywhere. Also have the D2 Benz, nib, I am certain it reads TA02 by that point though.
  18. Same, I will offer to make some If anyone on the east coast could loan me a f350 shell, I could model and print some bolt on body mounts for the TXT-2 for their trouble. Is the wheelbase close enough or would the truck have to be shortened?
  19. Having never driven one of the leaf spring trucks I cannot comment on the drive. TXT-2 on the other hand remains one of my favorite trucks with regard to performance and looks. The Jug is lovely, I have contemplated building another with the f350 body and some Imex puller tires to get closest to the look.
  20. They are 6mm on both sides, transfer case and axle input shaft.
  21. I may go off-topic here but I may as well share. My monster truck experience prior to receiving the SMT was a stock clod, a four linked locked up mod-clod and a TXT-2 all silver cans and 2-3S. After receiving the SMT my initial impression was poor. The plastics all felt rubbery and soft. This was the rtr max-d model so there were a few rtr bugs to work out right out of the box. The output gear to the axles was loose so no 4wd. Getting the trans out the first time was an effort since I didn't put it together. Since you are an experienced builder I wouldn't expect to have the same grief since you say you were interested in the kit version. Post that with everything working as it should, first week drive a few times and get frustrated with the lack of power. Swap out clod wheels and then the overgrown stance irritated me. Shorten the wheelbase and put in more power, lose the crawler esc they used to come with and yeah, it was quick enough at that point. Plastic gear trans melted next. Put in steel gears, and alloy trans case then it was were a bit noisier.Next problem after that was the axles started clicking. As LC said above, AR60s are not up to MT duty. I still haven't opened up the axles, I imagine they were built correctly though, perhaps they needed shims to tighten the mesh from the start but that's the current state of the truck. It sounds like some of the weaknesses have been addressed from the marketing, I am personally sour on the truck and the amount of upgrades it needed . At $200 for the kit, I think it's not a terrible price for a slider but at least there is enough aftermarket support to keep it running and to correct weaknesses.
  22. Like most I have had a few problems with my used purchases. What generally makes me pull the trigger is if there is a rare or period correct upgrade on a car that I think I really want. In the attic presently is a box or hornets, grasshoppers, super hornets and a super g that were all bought for one reason or another. One of the cars was so trashed I bought another to donate it's parts to the rest. In this example I got a few good parts and accessories like a black endurance motor or a white futaba attack radio set but mostly it is a when I get to it box. No real interest in doing them up and sorting the broken bits from the good bits, counting the NIB candy green, black special and Watanabe, I might have ten. No one needs ten hoppers but the few color editions will make a nice pairing with the box art cars at one point. Used cars are generally dirty, broken, neglected or otherwise incomplete. I have learned to study the text and pictures much more closely when looking for that gem On the other hand, sometimes it works out. I got an 88 Avante that is nearly perfect. Since I didn't build it myself though, I feel a bit apprehensive to dig into it and see how it works and if it's broken in any way. Haven't even run it yet. Maybe that's the case with buying rtr or premade trucks, you just don't appreciate it the same as if you'd built it from a kit.
×
×
  • Create New...