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About Quailane

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  1. The Dark Impact uses ball differentials in the front and rear. They are more maintenance intensive than gear differentials. Take the ball differentials apart and rebuild them as per the instructions. Also check to see if there is anything amiss with them.
  2. For sure it will come with a glass-reinforced chassis, probably the new black one that will be coming out. It will also definitely have hopped up diffs. It could have a front spool and rear oil-filled diff or two oil-filled diffs. An alloy propshaft and motor mount seem likely to be the other hop-ups to differentiate it over the original TT-02S kit.
  3. The TT-02 is also a lot simpler, spares and hop-ups are a lot easier to find, and new ones in kit form, including the body, are half the price of an XV-01. That being said, I'm no longer very interested in the TT-02 after having hopped it up as much as possible, looking at the price, and the performance, and tunability.
  4. It is easy to screw into soft plastic, but much more difficult for harder things. I bought the thread forming tap and the handle. It serves no purpose for soft plastic, and can actually make things worse if you're not careful. It is helpful on glass reinforced plastic, and amazing with carbon reinforced plastic. Without it you risk some wrist pain trying to screw anything in. I really dreaded screwing things into fresh plastic before, but now it is a breeze. It is just a bit more time consuming.
  5. The TA06 rear ball diff is a direct fit into the XV-01, M-07, and M-08. It has aluminum outdrives that require you to use the plastic parts over the end of the axles. I bought two for my XV-01, but I installed one on my M-08. I'm a little worried about the diff being able to take punishing crashes in the rally XV-01. The FF03/TRF201 diff uses hardened steel, so I might try that. Thanks for the tip. The parts number for these is 19804410. The plastic gears used for the TA-06 and FF03 are the same part though.
  6. Modern radio gear is so much more reliable. I have bought some older cars with vintage radio gear installed, some of it the most expensive available in the 90's. Rarely does it work properly and sometimes it is irreparable at my skill level. It also doesn't compare to the cheapest used FHSS Futaba transmitters and receivers you can buy rather cheaply these days. Back in the day when these older radios failed on cars and trucks, the worst that happened was running into something. My father was very active with aircraft, and I saw some pretty horrific radio-related accidents in my youth. When he brought home his first spread-spectrum frequency hopping Futaba radio, that changed the whole game. It isn't fun to drive around and have radio glitches. It really isn't. If you want to run your car or truck with older radio gear that is fine, but I for one will never go back to it.
  7. Yes. I bought a Sport Tuned in 2017 and it was greenish brown. I thought it was very strange that it wasn't black like all of the pictures I saw.
  8. Did the cracks occur through the screw holes? Did you tap the threads first? Were you gentle and patient with screwing them in? I don’t think TA01/2 gearboxes shouldn’t crack so easily, but I’ve only seen them with self-tapping screws. I have built one car 90% with machine screws. Now I’m worried.
  9. I thought the gray ball cups were lower friction? That is probably what makes them last longer for you, although I feel they can get sloppy faster than the black ones. They are definitely softer than the black plastic ones though. Tamiya makes reinforced ball cups, but they are black and use a lot more material. They are for buggies but you can use them on whatever you want if you trim their length. Tamiya's ball cups I think are fine. I have no problems with them during usage, but putting them together can be a pain. I need to buy Tamiya's ball cup adjustment tool. That should help a lot. The cheap steel turnbuckles that Tamiya provide in their kits are usable, but not very user friendly. The tiny part where you are supposed to use a wrench on them rounds off too easily, and the steel rusts easily as well. My plan now is to never use them again. Tamiya makes nice aluminum ones which look nice and are a lot easier to adjust with a turnbuckle wrench, but I find that the blue coating scratches off too easily. Tamiya makes titanium ones which I don't want to buy. It is easy to find turnbuckles. They are all the same across brands. You just need M3 turnbuckles in the correct length. I'm planning to buy some titanium turnbuckles from a company called RTW for less than the price of Tamiya's aluminum ones. The best part is that they don't have a blue coating that can scratch easily.
  10. By long dampers, they mean to be used for something longer than the super-short big-bore dampers. Don't know if they mean something as long as the regular TRF dampers or something in-between them and the super-shorts.
  11. I think you were able to find it now because Tamiya just released a much improved modern version of the exact same body and stickers.
  12. I bought my first TT-01, just for the body. I bought a TA-01 or 02 a few years ago and it had this same body and stickers. The stickers were peeling a little so I threw the body in the trash. Finally I can have a fresh one. I also got the new Audi rally body. I think it looks so cool and would be perfect for my new rally XV-01 I’m building.
  13. For an XV-01 it came out to be about half the price of the Yeah Racing titanium screw kit for the same car. I bought them online from China. I had to go through he manual and count all of the screws, but forgot about the different screws used by the various hop ups. Good thing I ordered extras! Also got titanium nuts and washers. Only problems were that the maximum length I could find was 20mm per screw and the smaller M2 screws Seem to have a thread pitch that looks to be too fine for me to feel comfortable using. EDIT: I just checked, and grade 5 titanium screws are very expensive. Grade 2 screws are 1/4 the price and I can’t even find grade 5 torx screws.
  14. I’ve spent some time this evening with the thread forming tap and the torx screws. I’m very happy with the way everything is working.
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