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Quailane

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About Quailane

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  1. A bunch of torx titanium screws arrived today. I hope they work better than stainless steel!
  2. Quailane

    TT02 Type-S

    I had to use a dremel to grind away the outside of the spur gear adapter in order for it to fit. I used the largest pinion and smallest spur I could get my hands on. I had to remove the motor and encountered stuck screws. I had to use a dremel to made slots in the heads in order to get them out. For the steering, I spent a lot of time getting rid of as much slop as possible. I mounted the front and rear shocks as closely as possible to the shock towers and lower arms. I made sure there was absolutely no contact between any of them at any point of travel. I'm not sure if it was a good thing or if I should have followed the directions.
  3. Oops. I completely forgot about JIS. I have never owned a JIS screw driver. Maybe I should buy a good one. When I install screws in a model, I only use hex screws unless I bought the model used. In that case I keep the self-tapping screws or used new self tapping screws and I always used a Philips driver with those. Those usually don't give me much issues though. The hex tools I bought include two with high quality hardened steel machined heads. One is a T wrench with three identical ends, and another is a 1/4" socket. I'm thinking about a couple of things that were problems. About half of the time I have an issue, it is because a hex screw is screwed into a metal part and not plastic. I think I cranked down too hard and didn't use any grease. Then later the steel screw was stuck in the aluminum. I then had to use a dremel to cut a notch and use a big flat head screw driver to remove the screw, or sometimes go to even greater lengths to rescue the other parts. The other times maybe the screw was tightened too much to begin with. With a socket wrench maybe I got a little crazy. I didn't think I did, at the time, but in hindsight maybe I did. A couple of other problems I have had may be due to the screw quality. I was buying grade 12.9 screws with silver, black, and gold finished on them. The finishes were definitely not as strong as the rest of the screw and in the hole where the hex driver is inserted, that could be a problem. I have also bought stainless steel screws and they were terrible. It was simply too easy to round our the hex hole or even shear the top of the screw off. From memory, the best hex screws were always matte black, but for me they always seem to get rusty even when they don't come into contact with water. Now I'm thinking to by a new 1/4" torque wrench. I have already ordered T8 and T10 1/4" sockets and also the tamiya M3 thread forming tap.
  4. I have a lot of trouble with screws. A LOT. It doesn't matter whether it is grade 12.9 or whatever, I tend to strip them. I bought good hex tools, which helps, but I still strip some. I noticed that uncoated high grade steel screws are the best, but they rust. Also have to use some lubricant. I have used titanium screws before once in a TT02 build 3 years ago. I took that car apart last week and I noticed that 90%+ of the screws looked brand new and were re-usable. That car had taken quite a beating. It got me thinking about titanium again. I could only find titanium grade 2 screws, which are about half as strong as grade 12.9 steel bolts, but they should be fine. But the real kicker now is that I found out that you can buy these screws in torx varieties, which should help prevent stripping. I have ordered enough screws for three XV-01's. A Yeah Racing titanium kit, and I counted the screws needed and ordered 2 car's worth of torx screws. Does anyone have any experience with them? I think a main problem I had with the grade 12.9 bolts I bought was the coatings on them. These were the weak point and if the coating rubbed off in the hex hole, then the screw was toast. It doesn't matter how strong the steel is if the coating is weak. I have good luck with flat black steel hex screws, but they tend to rust.
  5. Quailane

    TT02 Type-S

    I'm sorry I never posted anything about this car afterwards. A couple of weeks later I took it to a local track. It was a new car set up for racing, the track is pretty high-speed, and I'm a novice driver. I'm also used to using LiFe batteries and not Lipo! I also forgot to glue the tires to the wheels. I wrecked the car pretty badly. The chassis was fine, nothing that I couldn't fix at the track with some time and some superglue, but the body was rashed up pretty badly. After draining the battery with tons of lap time, I really didn't like the feel of the car and I wasn't sure what to do to it to improve the setup. Too many options for someone like me. I boxed up the car and didn't touch it for two years. I pulled it out of storage and I'm thinking about what to do with it. I'm not sure if I should use it again, build something else using some of the parts, or just sell the chassis as-is. I'll post some pictures tonight.
  6. Quailane

    TT02 Type-S

    Thanks! A spool is something that locks both shafts of the axle together as opposed to a differential which allows them to turn at different speeds. There are a lot of things I don't know either and this build has been a learning experience for me. It would have been easier and cheaper to buy a TRF419X, but that isn't the objective here. Due to experimentation and not knowing what I was doing before hand, I am left with a lot of spare parts I don't have a use for. This is my first racing build. I've never even owned a LiPo battery before, just NiCad, NiMH, and LiFe.
  7. Quailane

    TT02 Type-S

    This is my TT-02 Type-S build. I bought the kit in early January and I've slowly put it together using upgraded parts. It took so long due to so much experimentation going on. In the end, the only parts from the kit that I ended up using were some of the bearings, the differentials, and two bumper support brackets. I guess you live and learn. Some interesting things about this build: 1. It uses the same 0 degree toe hardware front and rear. I got rear toe by using 3racing 2 degree rear uprights. Their shaft hole is 3mm vs Tamiya's 2.7mm, but with the grub screw tightened it doesn't matter. I plan on running this chassis in VTA and I thought 2 degrees of rear toe would work better than 3. 2. It has a 64p 70T spur gear and 52T pinion. The motor fits as closely to the center of the chassis as possible. 3. I kept the same style suspension arms but in CF. These were expensive and hard to find! The short reversible arms are much more common, but I wanted to keep everything as close to stock as possible. One thing I don't like is that the long reversible suspension arms in both fiberglass and carbon fiber are a lot more loose on the suspension shafts and have slop that is impossible to shim away. The short reversible arms fit tightly on the suspension shafts, so force the motion to the shaft mount points but can be shimmed to have almost no slop. 4. C hubs are 2 degrees instead of the stock 4 degrees. 5. I first installed a front spool, but then changed it to a gear diff because I wanted to run front aluminum CVD's. There is a lot more I am not remembering off the top of my head. I've been tinkering with everything so long to get it as close to perfect as possible. I want to build this car again in the near future, but already know what parts to use and how before I build it. One thing I have grown to love is 3racing's 3mm and 5mm shim sets that offer .05mm adjustments.
  8. I bought two of the 40th anniversary TA02SW Porsche 934's, and those kits aren't cheap.... I bought a TT02 Type-S and by the time I bought all the hop up parts, all that was missing was a steering servo and receiver to make a second kit.
  9. I came home from work today to see a box filled with this stuff outside my door. The Yeah Racing aluminum DF-01 front arms are an almost perfect replacement for the TA02 front arms, but the rear ones are each a few millimeters wider than TA02 arms. On the labels I can make out TA02 under the permanent marker. My plan was to see if I could make a 251mm wheelbase RWD TA01 or a 231mm wheelbase TA02SW. Nope. The black Manta Ray chassis looks 100% identical to my gray TA01 chassis minus some scratches.
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