Jump to content

Jonathon Gillham

Members
  • Content Count

    2693
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2105 Excellent

About Jonathon Gillham

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Zealand

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Could you also stiffen up the front shocks to prevent so much weight transfer forward?
  2. Cleaned up my Kyosho Lazer to sell, a guy is picking it up on Friday. Commented to my wife that I got excited about having money coming for it so i could buy a new charger then realising I spent it on the replacement HB nack in June. She said "don't buy more RC stuff, it soundee like you were asking for permission". Busted, I was totally asking for permission Also got all the offroad racers ready for a practice day tomorrow. Public holiday, what better way to spend it than at the track.
  3. Check rcmart for 3Racing titanium turnbuckles. They have heaps of sizes, are cheap and I haven't bent or broken one yet
  4. I remember those Norfolk Island catalogues. I so wanted the Monster Beetle and all the Lego but got none
  5. Finally got around to ordering 50529 for my Top Force to get higher gearing, and a bunch of pinions. I procrastinated for so long (nothing to do with my wife being off work and seeing the deliveries, honest) and it is now out of stock at RCMart, where I get the pinions. So 2 orders today, I really hate paying that extra $7 shipping! The worst part is they will probably sit in the packets and never get used as the current gearing seems ok, I'm just paranoid I'll be cooking motors.
  6. I've found cutting carbon fibre plate to be the easy part, a dremel makes light work of it. The challenge is getting the holes perfect. I've played around with it to make shock towers but I would want some kind of CNC mill to do the holes. I just bought the plate from Banggood I think, but Aliexpress have it, Amazon etc. When you say the Kyosho Mantis, is that the rwd touring car with little springs and no dampers and the 2 plates, forward and back? They look to be pretty straightforward to do, but how are you planning on attaching the middle section which has the screws in from the side?
  7. Thats absolutely flattery! I bet there are loads of them running exactly the same thing. I have the RZ motor too which is in theory faster but I doubt I'll notice any difference. I'll find out next month when I take it to a vintage race. Its pre-95 and open brushed motors so I could easily be outgunned by a 12T motor but meh, mine will look cooler. This club runs 2 pre-95 classes, silvercan and open brushed so I was planning on running both with the Top Force as the more capable chassis in open brushed, I have a HW 1060 so can go for a much faster motor if I decide. I suspect the Super Stocks will be as fast anyway as some of the lower turn motors around now. I got my high speed gears from Stella but they are sold out now too. My usual places were sold out when I ordered back in November, it could be a limited part. It accelerates really well in its current form, I'd say on par with my Boomerang running a TBLE-02S and a 13.5T Trackstar v1 motor with 17T pinion. I'm only worried about cooking the motor, so the lower FDR would be good. Unfortunately to go higher than an 8 or lower than about 8.4 means changing the spur, so the 23T Super Stock is right on the edge of the 2 spurs. You can use the kit setup for the bigger spur, it just has the alloy drive gear in it which is apparently bad but I don't know from experience.
  8. Welcome to the club. I like Banggood.com for electronics, they carry a huge range and shipping is generally included. Search SkyRC charger and you will see their range which includes the B6. Look at the S60 as well, its basically the same spec but is AC rather than DC so doesn't need the additional power supply. Or accept you're going to need it and buy a dual (D100) or quad (Q200) now - these can charge 2 or 4 batteries at once. Check local prices too as often when Banggood have it on sale so do the local shops. Banggood is my goto for connectors, wire, cable ties, random tools you don't use much etc. Servo. I have started using JX 4409MG for my bashers. Its about US13 delivered and has 9kg and .1sec (give or take). I don't believe the specs but for the price it is great - even if the specs are out by 20% its a decent servo for the price. @Juggular have you tried yours out? Radio gear. I know you've bought some already but you'll get more. You definitely get what you pay for, so either never buy Futaba or Sanwa so you don't know what you're missing, or up your budget. We have a mix of Flysky, Futaba and Sanwa and all perform well (I haven't tried flysky in the race cars though) but the Futaba and Sanwa are definitely nicer units. My son runs a 3PV which is their entry level good one and its great for him. Its small though so not ideal for adults. Receivers cost more but you can always find secondhand ones for more reasonable prices. My Sanwa MT4S is another step up again. Even the 3PRKA is a decent unit and has the key things, no multi model memory though. One thing that holds true for most things in life and definitely for RC - when you go cheap at first you regret it and end up getting the better one anyway. Chargers are the one for me, I have 2 which is barely enough racing 3 cars and wish I had just bought a quad to start with. I have been through a series of cheaper ESC, motors etc and they are never as good, either limiting what you can do or fiddly to use etc. Also, if you get your kids into it the available budget skyrockets, the home office seems to be a lot more forgiving of kids toys
  9. What motor are you planning to run? I have the speed tuned set and the highest FDR I can get is 8: which seems ok for a Super Stock 23T motor. If you are running a low turn brushed motor you may want the rally gears instead to get lower gearing options
  10. What about the Exotek RS7 conversion? I wondered about the Jazrider chassis too as it came with more stuff and was cheaper but I have heard mixed things about Jazrider. There is also HK lab as well who do one and they have a good reputation. I doubt Tamiya will release an upgrade kit and I don't think any of those MS parts are available separately either so aftermarket is the only way to go. As for whether its worth it, I have no idea. Its not for me, my onroad cars didnt get out once in 2019.. I suspect the hard chassis with the carbon stiffeners will be very stiff anyway. The carbon chassis is probably lighter. Do you race or just like a hopped up shelf queen?
  11. Yep thats right, no settings to change or anything, just use it as normal
  12. To add to @Juggular explanation, the FDR will also depend on the motor. Motors have an optimal point where they operate best (don't even start on adjusting the timing). Usually this will be a range of say 3.5 - 4.5 FDR (for a touring car in 21.5T blinky). This may require a change of spur gear and pinion to get this range (but thats fine on a modern Touring Car as its easy to swap them out). You would go with 3.5 for a track with long straights and not much infield. 4.5 for a small tight track where acceleration is key. Probably end up somewhere in between for most tracks. You can adjust on the day depending on how hot your motor is getting (3.5 may mean the motor is working too hard and overheat it) how fast your competitors are (you find that you keep up in the infield but get blown away on the straights, then lower FDR) etc. Brushless motors can run crazy low FDR compared to brushed motors. Most Tamiya buggies would be suited to 8.5T - 13.5T motors (Boomerang for example, biggest pinion would suit a 10.5T motor). I run FDR 5.5 in my 4wd race buggy with s 17.5T motor, and am probably going to go lower as my new motor is very torquey. Basically in this car its heat that determines it, a 17.5T motor always accelerates well so its going for the max speed.
  13. Interesting, will remember vinegar as lately I've had all sorts on my hands. Once after cutting up chillis my hands were burning. The internet said wash them with vodka. I tried it, should've drunk the vodka, it may have numbed them enough. Vodka didnt wash chilli off. So back on topic, I take the mixing thing is inconclusive right now?
  14. Where did you hear the rumours? From people who may have a clue about it? The DF03 and DB01 were on a similar level when released weren't they, but the DB01 could be upgraded with TRF parts and was the better buggy right? So a DF04 wouldn't be a bad thing?
  15. Really? I thought they mix fine but its almost impossible to get what you want as they aren't a linear scale. Eg 50/50 mix of 400 and 800 in theory gives 600 but it doesn't and you need to work out ratios so its really hard. They are the same oil, Tamiya gives 900CST shock oil with their diffs (TA07Pro). However the 1m oil is like a paste so I'm not sure how that would work. If you had 10k and 50k it would probably be worth mixing to see what happens. Yeah racing make a mixer pack where you can mix any thickness but I'm 99% sure thats for shock oils not diff oils. When going through the same thing for shock oils I ended up buying a pack with a range of grades, Losi ones are really good value in the pack but really expensive inidividually. The only thing I would say is buy the same brand. They all have their own scales so at least this way you will get consistency between the different weights
×
×
  • Create New...