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Jonathon Gillham

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About Jonathon Gillham

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  1. Personally I wouldn't buy that as its all basic stuff. It will work, but you are better to choose the components. That charger is very basic when for $50ish you can get one that will charge all battery types and you can set the charge rate. The ESC is the 105BK which is limited to brushed motors and 25T I think. Either get a Hobbywing 1060 which runs down to 12T motors (crazy fast) or a TBLE-02S which can run 25T brushed or brushless down to 10.5T. Yes bearings are essential to build from the start. The bushings adversely affect performance and also can attract dirt and wear down the shafts etc so if you add them later you could need to replace a bunch of bits.
  2. What are you wanting to use it for? Neither are race kits, so best performance is a current race kit like the HB D418, Schumacher Cat L1, Associated B74 etc. But between the 2 options it will depend where you're running it. I'm basing this off running my Boomerang and TT02B together. The TT02B performs better on smooth surfaces as its basically an onroad car with longer arms. The ride height is low so it can struggle on grass and it doesn't jump well. I think thats a combination of low ride height and the longitudinal battery. If you want to run brushless motors then you really need to look at the DF02 metal diffs for it as the stock rear diff doesn't hold up well to more powerful motors. You can get any gear ratio though with the high speed gear set and yeah racing motor mount which is an advantage. The Terra Scorcher is an old school buggy with decent ground clearance but the steering isn't as precise. Its much better on rough ground or grass. I don't have one but would expect it to have a wider turning circle than the TT02B, and suffer from understeer. It also has limited gearing options so the motor choice is more limited, but a 13.5T brushless will run well in it. Who is going to run it? I cringe when my son takes control of my Top Force or Boomerang but have no problems with him and his mates running the TT02B's around. I dont care if they crash them as very little goes wrong and they are cheap to fix. If you want old school buggy and more modern performance then look at the DF01 buggies, currently the Top Force and Manta Ray are available. I think the Top Force is the better bet due to the adjustable arms and FRP chassis, but they are essentilly the same car just one is plastic and one is less plastic. Top Force is twice the price and really needs the oh-so pretty hi cap dampers too, so the Manta Ray could be the better bet. Or get all 4
  3. I think the difference between a Grasshopper and Sand Viper will be massive. My son was having a hard time getting around our backyard track in his Novafox and we swapped cars so he ran the TT02B (current entey level 4wd buggy, the Plasma Edge looks best) and improved immediately. The Boomerang is the same, just too old. If you like the rereleases then look at the 90s on, Top Force, Super Astute etc. They seem to perform as well as the modern stuff. Why not talk yo your friend and all buy the same? Restrict hopups to the basics like bearings and then run a control tyre so you remove the cars from the equation. In saying that we've run 'run what you brung' races and found all the cars from Novafox to TT02B to be similar in the backyard races when there are enough cars as they can be carnage. 2 cars is ddifferent though as you get clear track if you pass someone. Batteries - basically the relationship between runtime and MaH is linear, so a 3000mah will give twice the runtime of a 1500mah. I have 3800mah and they give 30mins plus in the backyard. I think 3000mah is about the sweet spot as the bigger mah mean the batteries are physically bigger, so it canbe a struggle to fit them in some cars. Lipo is a good idea since you know what you're doing with them and they make the car a lot faster, similar to a 8.4v nimh probably. Just get hardcase ones that won't get damaged in a crash. Do you have to have stick radios? I find young kids find them easier but most people prefer the wheel type. There are a lot more options around for wheel. Look at how many model memory they have and the cost of extra receivers too, as some may cost a bit more upfront but be a lot cheaper in the long run. This is somewhere I think its worth spending a bit more as you can use this for years and have all your cars on it.
  4. My one is one a guy built and I bought off FB, about a third of the cost of the VRC one. Still reallynexpensive given I haven't used it!
  5. For the charger have a look at these https://m.banggood.com/HTRC-C240-DUO-AC-150W-DC-240W-10Ax2-Dual-Channel-RC-Battery-Balance-Charger-p-1242905.html?rmmds=search Can charge 2 batteries at once and cheaper than 2 chargers. You will end up with at least one more car (soon, and 10 more by the end of the year) so may as well start with a dual charger. I wish I had, I have 2 single chargers and one of these dual chargers on the way. For the radio gear, Flysky is cheap and cheerful, works fine and people do use them to race. However, Futaba and Sanwa are much nicer units, and the mid range are brilliant. You're looking at USD200 or more though, but the Futaba 4PM or 4PV, or Sanwa MT44 are great. Receivers cost a lot more too. I have a mix of Sanwa, Futaba and Flysky, but tend to use the Sanwa or Futaba more, even though the receivers cost about 10x as much because the radios are just so much nicer to use. Or, just get a cheap one and never try the expensive ones so you don't know what youre missing. If your son geta into it then no doubt you'll have his friends wanting a go, and you'll end up with a fleet of cars, so Flysky is a good option for those and keep your nice one for your cars Otherwise, what @Juggular said.
  6. Good point about the borders being closed for a long time. I agree we'll most likely be indoors for longer than 4 weeks and would've preferred they had told us the length of time they actually expect rather than hope. Its easier to plan that way. The supermarkets are mental! I bet all those people buying flour don't even know what to do with it!
  7. Seeing the responses around the world I'm so glad I live in New Zealand. Our govt has done an amazing job - lockdown early, made a stack of cash available to people and businesses to get them through it, forced the banks to play nice, secured loans for business, implemented rent freezes and said people can't kick tenants out etc etc. It seems most countries are worried about the economy, ours is worried about the people. Its not often I'm that complimentary about a govt. Still can't get any car dealers to call me though...
  8. I have a couple i need to get rid of too. Does the bucket of salt water work to discharge them? And can i do 2 at a time in the same bucket or do i need to them one at a time?
  9. A few clubs here are talking about doing that. I have a VRC adaptor and have tried the game before getting my adaptor but thats as far as i got. Is it good?
  10. I just built a Top Force and I did Hi Caps - I think these are important as they look so good, and perform better Alloy motor mount - I went Yeah Racing as it is cheap. Apparently they are essential Bearings - obviously Alloy wheel hexes Turnbuckles - I like the 3Racing titanium ones Hi Torque servo saver Gears - both the hi speed TA02 set and the standard one without the alloy idler gear, and lots of pinions Also a Super Stock TZ and HW1060 as it should run brushed motors I don't think that the chassis or shock towers are that bendy, but apparently they are. I haven't run this a huge amount to find that is an issue, and they aren't like others which you can bend with your fingers. Look at the Yeah Racing chassis kit though if you're thinking of a carbon chassis, not Tamiya but half the price.
  11. My hicaps and some PS1 paint arrived. Unfortunately the turnbuckles are still stuck in Hong Kong so who knows when they'll arrive. I also need to work out the Dynastorm tower dimensions so that could hold things up for a while.
  12. The landlord wanted to sell the building his shop was in, so he moved his business to his house. He has a big garage with all the same stock still, but its a bit further from the motorway so not as easy to get there. He is trying to get more people into online sales and revamped his website, but I still prefer going in and browsing. His is the closest I've seen to what HobbyCity used to have back in the 90s, a wall of Tamiya kits. He also races with NHRCC regularly and is helpful trackside, we both have TRF102 so have swapped parts which is useful.
  13. We're getting mixed messages here about what is essential and can be sold/bought online, so who knows. Funnily enough I just got the settlement offer from the insurer on my car, got rear endeda couple of weeks ago. Trying to get hold of salespeople right now is a nightmare, I'm amazed they aren't waiting by the phone for it to ring since they can't open their yards. I'm hoping for a end of fimancial year/lockdowm deal where I get a heap of money off. If not I have a fleet deal I can fall back on for a Mitsubishi Triton, if they ever get back to me!
  14. I know what you mean, I really wanted the Futaba 6K but it was 4 times the price of the Flysky and by all accounts the Flysky works well for yachts. In my experience they work well enough but I agree, they feel cheap. Good to know that magnets don't cause problems, will go ahead
  15. 2 packages for me today. The new T bars for the TRF102. I read on rctech that they were impossible to find now and sure enough...so I panic bought a couple of carbon ones from Bezerk RC. They arrived today, they look really good. If I can track down dimensions for the Dynastorm shock tower I'll get them to make me one too. My ae order from Amain arrived too. Ball cups and turnbuckles for the B6D and 81T, 69T B4 spur gears and slipper pads for the Super Astute. I was expecting my hi caps and paint for the Super Astute too but they never left the depot, I hope they get here soon. If they store them for a month then who knows how long it would take to sort out a months worth of packages.
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