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Jonathon Gillham

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About Jonathon Gillham

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  1. Each end of the car uses one of the long ones and one pair of the separate ones, have a look at that RCRacer link above for pictures. Its really important to get the right ones though. I bought the same as the TA07 Pro came with in the kit, but it may make sense to buy the ones that the TA07R uses Include 54070 TB-03 Aluminum Suspension Mount (1B) Include 54072 TB-03 Aluminum Suspension Mount (1D) Include 54172 TA05 Ver.II Separate Suspension Mounts (1A-1XA) Include 54173 TA05 Ver.II Separate Suspension Mounts (1B-1XB) That way you know that they will work properly. As for gears, the TA07 comes with a spur gear mount that will take any standard fitment gear. One of the steps in the instructions is attaching the spur, so if you have bought a different one then just swap it out during that step. I have a 63T and 64T and pinions from 27T - 37T (they also fit all my other cars hence I have heaps). The gears are cheap, so I suggest buying a couple of spurs and 2 or 3 pinions which gives you a lot of ratios to olay with. Its a pretty simple job to swap spurs once you've done it before, its easy to do between races. http://www.rcmart.com/competition-delrin-spur-gear-road-touring-drift-p-77091.html?cPath=1293_1299 is an example that will fit (I have Lee Speed brand which look identical, a lot of rc stuff is rebranded) http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-mg48035-aluminum-7075-hard-coated-motor-gearpinions-p-30142.html?cPath=1293_1306 i have a lot of these pinions and the only ones that have died have had stones get in there on my buggies, but they have been great otherwise.
  2. Oils these are the sets I bought, they are from a local supplier but ebay will have them. https://www.rchobbies.co.nz/team-losi-tlr74019-certified-silicone-shock-oil-6-pack-2oz-17-5-22-5-27-5-32-5-37-5-42-5wt/ https://www.rchobbies.co.nz/team-losi-tlr74020-certified-silicone-shock-oil-6-pack-2oz-20-25-30-35-40-45wt/ Carbon Stiffeners - 54788 and 54789 and 54755 This is the bible for the suspension mounts https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html Its written by Qatmix who's on this forum. I don't know which ones you need, it depends on track width and toe etc, I just bough the aluminium versions of the ones the kit came with. Examples are 54064 for the long one and 54171 for the split ones. There are some new ones with inserts but I know nothing about them, look at 54881 for an example, they look good. The kit also comes with plastic wheel hexes, I just bought cheap Yeah Racing aluminium ones. They clamp on so they don't come off when you take the wheel off. Tamiya ones are 3 times the price http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-alloy-wheel-washer-thick-touring-drift-crawler-wa016bu-p-27207.html?cPath=595_744_1857 I also got 54706 which is the aluminium counter pulley, its cheap and I didn't like the kit one which was 2 bits of plastic glued together. I would swap to 64p or 48p gears instead of the mod 0.6. Mod .6 gears aren't very common so they can be hard to find, but 48p or 64p are everywhere. I run 48p as I run those in my offroad cars too so I can mix and match pinions. What gear ratio you go for depends on the motor you run. I run 21.5T with the ESC in blinky mode so gear around 3.6 - 3.8 FDR. FDR is spur/pinion x internal ratio (internal ratio on the TA07 is 2.15 from memory). So a 64 tooth spur and 34 tooth pinion will give 64/34 x 2.15 = 4.05 as an example. As for motor choice, any 540 or 3650 (they are the same thing) size will fit. In my experience there isn't much speed difference (especially on a track with corners) between a low or high turn motor if they're geared properly. 21.5T is a common racing class so that could be a good option, or 13.5T or 17.5T are also reasonably common. For running in the street a 13.5T will be a lot of fun and you shouldn't find it too slow after a while. Motor and ESC brands, there are a lot. I would get a sensored one. Hobbywing is always safe and no one will say anything bad about them. I have a few different brands, SkyRC TS120 is my current preferred as its pretty cheap for what it does and they seem to be reliable. RCMart does them for USD68 delivered. Look at Hobbyking, their Trackstar stuff is ok, I ran the 80a Turbo ESC for a couple of seasons before they died. If you have the budget then look at Tekin, Orion, Maclan, Orca etc. They are really nice units but expensive. Any that say "Stock Spec" or similar are designed for stock racing and will be in blinky mode, this means no electronic timing from the ESC. I would get a programmable one which can go into blinky mode but you can also play around with. The Stock Spec are cheaper but will limit you for running in the street. Boost and turbo are fun. I like the Surpass V4S motor too, its cheap and fast and you can get them off ebay or Banggood or Aliexpress. Otherwise any of the above brand motors are good. Servos - I like Savox for a good bang for buck servo. Check out Protek as well, or PowerHD which get good reviews, there are a lot of brands out there. I have found that cheap ones don't perform like they claim to though, you really do get what you pay for. A low profile servo is good in the TA07 as space can get tight. Look for around 8kg - 12kg torque and anything below .12sec transit time. If you aren't running lipo already then you should to get the most out the TA07. Also, a programmable ESC is a waste without a decent lipo that can provide the power it needs.
  3. Oh yeah, you asked about oils. The kit comes with 400cst for the shocks, and 900cst for the diffs. Advice i received was pick a brand and stick to it as they should be consistent within a brand, but not necessarily between brands. I went with Losi as I was able to buy a 6 pack with 17.5wt to 42.5wt in 5wt imcrements for a good price. Then i bought the set in between as well, so i have 17.5wt to 45wt in 2.5wt increments. This has been surprisingly useful, but then I have 3 10th buggies, 3 onroad racers and an 8th nitro buggy which all need shocks built and adjusted. I also have diff oils in 2k, 3k, 5k and 7k, 10k, 100k and 1m. I also need some more of those in between the 10k and 100k. The low weights are good for offroad and rear diffs onroad, the higher numbers are for centre diffs and the 1m i use in my TA07 front diff. You have a spool so won't need the 1m weight, but i have 2 built for the rear with 2k and 3k which makes it easy to swap out. Really, just use the kit supplied diff oil or get say 2k or 3k diff oil for the rear. It is useful to have a range of shock oils, so see if you can find a set with a few included.
  4. That was a great buy, the TA07 Pro with those hopups. Do you have the rest of the aluminium suspension blocks? They are the most important hop up for that car, you need 2 sets of the split ones like shown in the picture, and 2 of the long ones. Before I got those I had to shim my TA07, since having those there is no play, play doesn't develop (I have been known to hit things) and the suspension movement is nice and smooth and precise. I have the servo mount and carbon shock towers too. The stock shock towers are pretty flexible so the carbon are a good upgrade. Some say the servo mount is really important, I haven't noticed much difference tbh but got it cheap. The other thing you may want are the stiffeners, I have the carbon reinforced K parts and the carbon fibre stiffeners, as well as the centre stiffener. The stiffeners made a big difference, i wouldn't bother with the carbon reinforced plastic ones, just buy the carbon fibre ones. As for the TT02, I wouldn't spend much on it. I have a TT02D and TT02B and have kept them stock other than bearings. They are great for what they are, but don't spend any money on them. Replace bits that wear out with hopups, or if you find a weak spot then upgrade it. The soft bendy plastics really add to the durability. Avoid that Yeah Racing upgrade set, i'm not sure how its an upgrade. The Eagle Racing chassis kit looks good but for the money you're better of buying a better car to begin with. Any 190mm body should fit the TA07 and TT02. The standard wheelbase is 257mm but there are ways to shorten it with spacers or by flipping the arms. The body mounting holes could be different though. My TA07 has the body posts on the bumper but the TT02D has them further back.
  5. All Tamiya manuals are excellent so you shouldn't have too many problems with any Tamiya kit, but some models are harder to build than others. The TT02 is a great kit to start with as they go together really nicely and there isn't anything too fiddly or difficult. They also have a heap of hopups available so you can keep upgrading them. However as the entry level kit they are somewhat limited, there is a good thread in the racing section about the limitations so have a read of that. They are an excellent chassis though for bashing as they're cheap and durable, and people have made them into 100mph cars with the right modifications. Its probably sensible to start with a TT02 as a first build. The next level up are tye TA07 or TB05. These are the club racers and have a lot more adjustability and are better materials. The TB05 is probably better for bashing being shaft shaft drive but who knows, there is always debate aboit belt vs shaft. These also come as a chassis kit, so no tyres, body, motor, ESC etc, its just the chassis. The Pro versions of both need a few hopups, the R version of the TA07 is out and that doesn't need anything. The MS version is actually in a different league. They are a more challenging build and while you could do one first time, its probably better as a second kit. TRF cars (TRF419, TB EVO 7 and TA07MS) are the top level chassis and only suited to racing. They use carbon fibre and aluminium and while amazing cars aren't really suited to running in the street or unprepared carparks. TamiyaUSA are selling thr TRF419 on runout at the noment, but they are still USD325 - USD375 for the chassis kit. I would count the XV01 as more like the TA or TB series, but don't have one so can't really comment on those. So really, what are yoy planning to do with it, and how many will you end up getting. Personally I would get a TT02 kit to start, and then look at the TA or TB car for something better as the second build, but if you only want to buy one and just buy body shells for it then ,aybe its best to jump in the deep end and get a TB05 or TA07 to start. It will be tricky but possible to build as a first kit.
  6. I have the 53440 set but how do you tell the spring rates? Can you measure them? I run blue front and yellow rear on my TA07
  7. What is included in the TRF kit? That appears to be excellent value for money if it is a comprehensive kit and good quality. I don't know anyone who uses MIP, but a lot of people I race with use Hudy and some of the sets look old but are still going strong. In hindsight a complete Hudy set would've been a smart move as I'll probably end up spending about that amount anyway on my Arrowmax tools, but I buy as I need them. A big thing for me is the replaceable tips - can you replace the tips on the TRF set? I don't think you can on MIP, but you can on Hudy. If you can replace the tips then get the TRF set and if you wear any out quickly then replace those tips with Hudy. Do you have a link to the set? I've never seen a complete TRF tool set so would like to have a look
  8. I have the hudy guide in my kitbox and have to refer to it every time I want to change anything, i can never remember it. The hardest part i find is the running after changing something - you really need access to the track for a tuning day. I wonder the same thing, my onroad club runs a TT02 spec class with minimal upgrades. I have one now that is ideal, I just need a torque tuned motor and the spec tyres, its tempting to run it rather than Touring Car for a while to learn how to race onroad.
  9. I wish I had your knowledge of tuning and setup! Feel your pain on duff bearings, been chasing those around my sons car. I think I have that sorted, but who knows. May as well go racing on Saturday regardless, from what you've said about the others there you will have plenty of help
  10. I suspect the rere markets isn't really limited. By that I mean for many people it isn't an either/or scenario, its a case of them buying the ones they want. So I doubt the Ultima release would dent Tamiya's sales if they have cars people want. If you actually mean in the vintage racing scene then they already have with the Super Astute right?
  11. What surface are you racing on? I had no end of problems getting my TA07 and TRF102 tracking straight at the indoor track and found out after a few meets that its the surface thats the problem. Its like an indoor astroturf thing that is used for indoor football, netball and cricket and the short little fake grass things get brushed a certain way which pushes the cars around. The best way to manage it is to turn the steering expo down at out track. The rear diff oil should help too, i had 7000 and now have 2 diffs made up with 2000 and 3000 and they are much better and have calmed down the rear end. It used to spin easily and now doesn't. What are you running up front? Most run a spool but i run a gear diff with 1m oil which acts a bit like a spool. I looked at a spool and apparently you really need DCJ's too, so it would have cost about $80 for a spool vs $7 for 1m diff oil. The steering servo and servo saver are probably worth looking at too like you say. I have trackstar d99x in my onroad cars and while the specs say they're good they aren't as precise as savox. You know a lot more about setup than i do so i'm interested in your spring choices. I've been told to run 1 softer in the rear than the front, so hard front then medium rear or med front and soft rear. What made you go for hard front and soft rear?
  12. @speedy_w_beans is that the same one as the Banggood 3018 that was in the video you posted? Banggood (suspiciously) have them 50% off right now... Have you got the laser module too? I take it that you are using it to cut not just engrave (and that should be fine given you're looking at 3mm sheets right?)?. Do you know if it will do carbon fibre sheets? I've had a look at the ads and it doesn't appear to, but then that may be classed as equivalent to soft aluminium maybe? Or is it a case of getting a better laser/engraver head thing to do hard materials? If it will do carbon then this will be a great toy
  13. What kit(s) are you looking at in particular? That money (I assume you mean USD) will get you a nice Hudy or MIP kit. From what I can gather Hudy and MIP are the best around, then you have a bunch that are pretty good and much cheaper. I went with Arrowmax Purple tools for everything. The price and quality are good and they are a lot cheaper than MIP or Hudy. So far I've worn out a 2mm driver bit so bought an MIP to replace it, otherwise the Arrowmax have been great. Also, the purple handles will take Hudy tips when they wear out, so I'll just replace the tips. In saying that I never considered TRF gear as no one recommended it and it wasn't that easy to find. It also depends on what you are wanting, mine are all hex drivers for the race cars with a few extras as I need them. Some individual pieces are stupid money for what they are - shock pliers are expensive but you also need them and its hard to find a substitute. But also body reamers, they just need to cut through plastic and can be $40. Same with some hex drivers - the 17mm ones for 8th scale wheel nuts are silly money, especially when Banggood has them that work well for $6 delivered.
  14. I still enjoy both, but most of my running is done at the racetrack now or with my son or friends - having 4 cars racing around the backyard track is a lot more fun than just 1. I haven't run a car by myself for a long time, excluding the times when I have just repaired a car and give it a run to make sure it is working properly (after putting my car down and it going backwards because the diffs were in the wrong way I'm more careful about these things!). I really enjoy the build so started making the Racing Sparrow as a way to get the fix without buying a new Tamiya each time. While its probably going to work out about NZD$500 - NZD$600 which is 3 TT02 builds, it will also be about 100 hours of work vs 12 hours to build 3 TT02s so is good value for money. The other problem with building new kits is what to do with them, I'm not that keen on having 30 or 40 models sitting on shelves (that I don't have anyway). Scratch builds also mean you have to solve problems rather than just screw everything together in the right order so it is a lot more challenging. The next step for me will be when my son is able to build his own kits. That will probably be when he gets a new race buggy, when he is wanting to build the whole thing himself (probably a good excuse to get 2 so we can build them together right?!). When he is interested in doing that then I can see a few new builds happening again
  15. There are people who could enter any club or regional race series with a TT02 and win, but they are exceptional drivers. @GooneyBird is one of those (I bet he'll say he isn't but don't believe him) as he wrote about running a TT01e against allcomers and winning and getting overly scrutineered. Or something like that anyway. I don't have a TT02 Type S but have a standard TT02, TT02B, TA07, TRF102 and then Kyosho and HB race buggies so have a reasonable idea of where the TT02 Type S will have shortcomings. You're right, it has a heap of adjustment available which is more than most people will need or know what to do with. I adjust diff and shock oils, springs and thats about it. I usually have set up camber, toe etc when I build the car and leave it as it doesn't seem to go out of alignment. There are a heap of other things like ackerman, roll centre etc which you hear people talk about but I doubt any truly understand it or notice any difference. Talking to our fastest driver and national champ in offroad and he says that he adjusts stuff but most others just follow him, and even the guys close to him don't fully understand it. There are people like @ThunderDragonCy who clearly understand tuning and setup as well so it is possible. The main problem with the TT02 is the type of plastics used (generally softer which doesn't break) and there is usually slop in it so it needs shimming. It is also heavier than the top shelf cars and some parts just can't be upgraded. It will also need the high speed gear set and yeah racing motor mount to get gear ratios right as the stock stuff is very limited. As far as I know you can't adjust flex characteristics either which is a useful and easy to understand tuning tool (see below for why its easy). The quality of the TT02 is far below that of a TA series or TRF series car. For example my TA07 Pro came with plastic suspension blocks and after every race meet it needed shimming (I hit things and can't justify some of my cool cars with ability) but then i got the aluminium ones and its been great since. The R and MS come with these already. I have also standard, carbon reinforced plastic and carbon fibre stiffeners so I can adjust the flex easily, which is easy when you know people who know stuff about tuning and flex as I can tell them what my car does and they tell me what stiffeners to use. In saying that, a fast guy running a stock TT02 (bearings but otherwise kit esc, motor etc) was faster than me with my TA07 in 21.5T blinky when I first started and since I haven't raced onroad this year would probably beat me still. Add in some bumps and I would like to think I would win...luckily he won't come down to my offroad club to prove me wrong! Starting out though a class like what NZ clubs call Tamiya GT is great as it removes much of the complexity of racing. I probably should race in it.
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