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Jonathon Gillham

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About Jonathon Gillham

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  1. What turn motor is it? The Rocket motors have a lot of torque so you can gear up compared to other brands. Depending on the motor turns, you may need the high speed gearset and yeah racing motor mount to get the right FDR
  2. Thats how I got my FF04 Evo, its the best way. Actually yesterday I was in such a boring meeting that a new 21.5T motor ended up getting bought, it turns out boredom is a lot like wine...
  3. This is the last blue bit I need for my TA07, does anyone have any sitting around they don't want? Unlikely, but can't hurt to ask
  4. Yes you do need to adjust the FDR, I would use the upper end of the range with turbo and boost. It adds another element to how you want the car to perform. With blinky running (ie no turbo or boost) you have motor timing and FDR. With this, you have those plus boost plus turbo, so you get a much better result in the end, but it can take some playing around with.
  5. Thats probably safer than window shopping with a wine...
  6. One thing with endbell timing, boost and turbo, its culmulative. If you normally have say 40deg timing on the endbell, then set another 15deg from boost, that effectively gives you 55deg, and all the heat that goes with it. When you do play around with boost, drop the endbell timing, say from 40deg to 25deg, then put say 20deg of boost timing in. You get the benefit of having lower timing for low rpm, and more timing for high rpm rather than the compromise of having to set timing for all rpm. Also, turbo is usually only for very short bursts when racing as it normally comes on after a few seconds at full throttle, ie if you were racing on the main straight but nowhere else on the track. If you're driving in a carpark you'll probably be on full throttle a lot. So take that into account when setting boost and turbo as well. You don't want to end up running most of the time at very high total timing values as it will create a lot of heat.
  7. If the TD2 is similar to the TD4 then I suspect if you get the slipper then you have a wide range of options as the slipper converts to 48p. This should mean the Team Associated gears will fit (the TRF201 was basically an Ae B4 clone and I think the TD4 slipper is basically a TRF201 slipper) but probably best if a TD4 owner chimes in, or you can compare the manual when it becomes available. The TF (and Manta Ray) has the high speed gearset available (or out of stock) which allows a big range of gearing options. Its a bit of a hassle to change spurs but you only have to do it once. You're limited to FDR's from 6ish - 11ish from memory as the spurs are specific to the DF01/TA01/2 chassis with the other gear moulded in as well. The TF can handle a much faster motor, its a really nice chassis, but probably fragile if you make it too fast... I converted my Super Astute to 48p spur gears as the Mod 0.5 spur and pinion gears are near impossible to find. Team Associated B4 spurs fit (you have to ream the centre hole a little bit to fit but its easy to do), are cheap and easy to come by, but you need the slipper pads to match as well. This works for me as I already have a heap of 48p pinions too. This one can have unlimited gearing options because you can swap to normal spurs. Obviously the cheapest option is just get the Super Stock motors and run kit gearing, and they go really well so you won't be disappointed.
  8. I have seen a TBLE-02S run a Super Stock just fine in a Fox, but it overheated and cut out very quickly in my Top Force and both on that same backyard grass track. You may get lucky and it runs fine. Nothing was damaged, it just doesn't run for long and isn't worth trying. I've heard people say they need maintenance every 10 - 20 packs but I'm not sure on that. When I started I tried a few different motors and settled on brushless pretty quickly. That motor Juggular linked has a matching ESC which has programming options. Its worth the USD100 for the motor, ESC and program card to play around with and see what can be done. You also need a lipo if you go down that route to make the most of it, once you add turbo and boost you need a battery that can supply enough power. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-trackstar-80a-turbo-sensored-brushless-1-12th-1-10th-esc-roar-approved.html?queryID=722ff9cca83e344331de56507f569503&objectID=47126&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics What cars are you running? The type of car would help determine which option is best
  9. They are a standard size, I have Team Orion and Gens Ace here and they are around 95mm long. They are standard now for 10th offroad cars and all the ones i have seen are the same. They are becoming more popular in onroad as well now, which makes sense as they have big capacity so you can move the weight around
  10. Where did you hear this? Or just keeping the thread going? Tamiyablog suggested a retail price of 190euros, seems steep for a TT01...
  11. They are all essentially the same and I doubt you'll notice much difference when using them. The TZ and RZ are marketed as onroad motors. The RZ revs higher than the TZ, its not much but maybe 1,000rpm or something. I assume this will mean a small tradeoff, maybe a smaller pinion or it will run a bit hotter (my assumption is they have a bit more timing in it, so it moves the power band higher but I don't know for sure) The BZ is marketed as offroad (it comes with the endbell foam cover) but the stats look identical to the TZ. Note that the suggested FDR on the box is different for the TZ/RZ and BZ which is because of the application. FDR is the ratio at the hubs and doesn't take wheel size into account, so the offroad buggies need a higher FDR than the onroad cars as their wheels are much bigger, effectively increasing the gearing. For the use you have described I would get whatever is cheapest. They are great motors and run really well, but require a bit of maintenance. Brushes wear out, the comm gets dirty and needs cleaning (do you have a comm lathe?). I have a TZ in my Top Force and RZ in my Super Astute. They are a bit too fast for my backyard but fun. I realise that many people prefer brushed motors, but for the same money you could get cheap but decent quality brushless motors (Trackstar, Surpass Rocket v3 etc) which don't require any maintenance and you can choose your performance level. My 17.5T powered race buggies are much faster than the Super Stock powered cars, BUT you need to gear them properly. For example a Top Force standard gearing is fine for a Super Stock, but you need the smallest spur from the high speed gearset to get the right FDR for a 17.5T (and even then the motor could run a lower FDR) so if you just put a 17.5T in a standard Top Force you'd be disappointed. 10.5T - 13.5T seems to be a good compromise here as they require an FDR which is closer to what Tamiya come with standard.
  12. I must have about 20 of them (including 2 Kyosho) but unbelievably I couldn't find one when racing this weekend. I wore out the 5.5mm on one which was the sign I needed a 5.5mm driver, but this weekend that was too long and I actually needed the cross wrench. Must all be lost at home.
  13. Sounds DOA to me, especially since the S3003 works fine. I have quite a few of those SPT servos and all mine work well, including with that exact radio (not that that matters) The only thing would be check that its plugged in the right way (different colour wires between those 2 servos), but most likely its faulty.
  14. I have the same problem with those gensace packs. Fine for many cars, too long by a few mm for others. No idea if its an option for the TA03, but in the F103 I was able to put shims under the top deck and raise it enough to fit a shorty. The CoreRC CR293 is the one you need, I think. @TurnipJF can confirm as he has some that fit the F103 and I'm pretty sure its that one. Easy to get in the UK, I can't get them delivered down here in NZ but you would probably have more luck as the US is arguably a bit bigger than NZ so more likely to get a better range
  15. My panic bought F1 tyres arrived today, 5 days from Hong Kong. Shipping cost as much as a pair of wheels, but they got here. Ride R1, they're old now but better than nothing if my old Shizimus give up over the weekend. Also, 6 of these https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-angle-type-4mm-and-5mm-connector-plug-wpt-0121-00076201 They look too good to be true, can swap between 4mm and 5mm (come with both, they screw in) and little handles to stop my son pulling on the cables. I need more than 6 sets, but thats an excuse for another order later, and soldering is the job I always put off so no doubt next xmas I'll be saying in the 'what did you do today' thread that i swapped bullets over.
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