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Jonathon Gillham

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About Jonathon Gillham

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  1. There is also the TB05, they released this in Pro and R spec. I would buy the Pro as it has adjustable motor position and is much cheaper. However when I needed a shaft drive pastic tub chassis the R was the only on available and its a fantastic kit. For parking lots don't rule out the older TB and TA cars (except the TA06, that was awful by all accounts)
  2. Hudy and MIP are the best of the RC brands. I know people with both who have had them for years and years without issue. I have the Arrowmax purple tools which were fine for about 5 years. They are quite a bit cheaper than MIP or Hudy and I have heaps of types and sizes so it made sense. You can replace the tips, so I now have Arrowmax handles with Hudy tips on the 1.5mm, 2mm and 2.5mm so its worked out really well. I'm about to add a 2.5mm ball driver and will get the arrowmax purple for that too. I probably use mine more than most too as we run 10th on and off road, plus 8th scale off road cars so can be racing up to 3 times a month.
  3. We have been using the 15T pinion with the kit silvercan with no issues for years. Thats running on grass too which is generally harder on the motor. A sport tuned may have an issue though as I'm pretty sure the manual specifically says not to use one. A 14T pinion may be better for sport tuned? Or the 15T if you run on concrete This is in a Boomerang and it has bearings installed.
  4. I've used Yeah Racing and 3Racing and found them to be decent for the price. They even do titanium ones for reasonable money which are a lot stronger than the kit aluminium ones. Those brands are a good compromise of price and performance
  5. MAH - this depends on a few things. Higher MAH will usually mean a bigger, heavier battery which lasts longer. How long is the race? 1:10 are usually 5 - 6 min so 4000mah to 6000mah is usually ok. Longer races need more mah Class - stock classes with high turn motors and no esc timing generally needs more mah. The bigger battery will give more punch for longer in the slower classes which matters in the last minute or 2. It doesn't matter for mod classes as they're overpowered anyway so you can run a smaller battery. Weight distribution. If the car is under weight you can add weight where you want it, which can include running a lighter battery with a weight underneath, lowering your COG I usually run 5000 - 6000mah and at the end of a 5 -6 min race the battery will have arounf 7.6 - 7.9v which is well above the loq voltage cutoff. If in doubt buy around this size C rating - I'm sure they all lie but bigger is better
  6. Its about weight distribution, if you lower the rear more weight is transferred to the rear wheels. When we put adjustable suspension in the 1:1 race car it was amazing to see how ride height was used to adjust this. Put the car on corner weights, raise or lower slightly to move weight on or off that wheel. Also, with the base setup the car (fwd) felt tail happy on some sweepers off power and the advice was to lower the rear by a whole rotation on the shock body, or stop backing off so much to keep more weight on the rear (i guess thats what adult diapers are for?!) You can download the Hudy setup guide which is worth a read. It has tables in it which have the 'issue' like oversteer mid corner, with suggested fixes in the order you should do them. So it may say reduce rear rollbar, increase front roll bar, lower rear or raise front, stiff front spirngs or softer rear springs etc etc so you can go through step by step and make changes. Its quite easy to do for onroad but I really struggle with (dirt) offroad as its not so clear whether its setup or there is a big whole mid corner which you need to avoid.
  7. I always forget about those. They would work well, with the caveat that you'd need to be experienced to set it up to work properly. There won't be any parts or setup support at the vast majority of places, but I think people on here have them running successfully Unfortunately the answer to this question always comes back to running something else, and starting out its best to run what the majority run so you can get help (and you can often buy secondhand from someone there).
  8. They did, the FF04 Evo but its almost TRF level (missing some bits) with a price to match. Its basically a XV01 without the belt and all the hop ups. I stripped down and rebuilt my TA07 Exo7 today, just over a year after the flood. Plugged it in, it worked for about 5secs and then smelt funny...but its been replaced by a Yokomo BD11 so this is being rebuilt for the shelf. Loads of rusted screws and bearings, but after about 4 hours of work plus new bearings and screws its actually in pretty good shape. It looks so pretty, it has pretty much every hop up (even bulkheads) so looks amazing!
  9. Thank you, have ordered a couple of sets - hopefully they are the old ones.
  10. Which shop was that? I've bought all mine from rcmart, should have looked closer to home!
  11. Funnily enough I've just rebuilt a RC10B6D (2014ish i think?) today (yep, flood was a year ago, race meet this Sunday so figured I should rebuild it!) and needed a few bits and found all locally, although admittedly 2 different shops. And there are places like Bezerk RC that make things like shock towers too, so if keeping it all Ae isn't an issue I expect these should keep going for a while yet. You raise a good point though, it would make sense to get the B74 rather than a B64 if going Ae as they are a lot newer so should have parts support for longer. Just picked up a Yokomo YZ2 DTM3.0 with 1 meeting old electronics (HW XR10 Pro, G4 17.5T and Savox 1267) for NZD580, definitely the best way to buy!
  12. @Marchie where are you based? Those prices sound like NZD...and those tracks could be Counties or West Auckland...
  13. For around the backyard or in the street, you can't go past the TT02B as its cheap, durable (its made of rubber) and parts are cheap and easy to get. Just don't expect much from it, and don't upgrade it at all except for bearings. If you are going to the track, then avoid the TT02B as its the worst performer on track than all the others listed (probably even worse than the Grasshopper). Its heavy and the battery placement means you have no control when its jumping. Also it becomes a lot less durable when landing jumps (rear gears will die quickly and the front arms will split and come off). I've run the Boomerang and Top Force at the track and they actually go pretty well. The Fire Dragon is very similar to the Boomerang so that will be fine too. I've heard horror stories of the Avante from BiTD but haven't run one (have a Black Special which needs building) but also know someone who used to run an Egress in Vintage and it did ok (he could win with a Grasshopper, so that probably helped). Funnily enough while the vintage scene has taken off here, you don't see Egress/Avante being run but you do see Top Force and Boomerang (variants) being run. Of course with the Kyosho, Associated, Schumacher and Yokomo rere's available now they are more popular than Tamiya. I don't have the TD4 and haven't seen one, but hear good things. They'd no doubt be good too. Now the obvious answer which totally ignores your original criteria - pick up a second hand B74.1 or B64 variant (B74.2 just out) or HB D418 (EVO is out) etc and run that. Will be much cheaper in the long run and outperform the Tamiya's (and other brand rere) mentioned above. The main advantage really is the durability though as they just don't break like a Tamiya would. Keep the motor sensible and you probably won't need any spares.
  14. Most likely it needs the throttle reversed on the tx, and possibly swapping the motor cables over. ESC usually give lower power in reverse and go slower in reverse. So its probably set up so the forward input from the tx is actually telling the esc to go reverse.
  15. Yep, the manual should show the sizes you need. I buy Yeah Racing bearings from rcmart in packs of 10. Never had a bad one and the price is between the bulk lots and the kits you can buy. They have all sizes available and usually the choice of metal or rubber shields.
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