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Jonathon Gillham

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About Jonathon Gillham

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  1. @Collin would those parts that you are designing mean you could take a Super Astute and turn it into a Dyna Storm? Or would it require a Dyna Storm restoration project?
  2. The lightest I've got is Losi 17.5 which is about 180 CST (its hard to find a comparison chart). Searching around it looks like the lightest Tamiya do is 200CST and thats about where most manufacturers start. I saw Losi 10WT and AE 7.5WT are in theory 100CST but I have never seen them for sale. RCMart have Mugen 100CST which is probably the lightest - I say probably as CST is an actual measure and Mugen is a good brand so it should be correct. However, I think some manufacturers make up their own ratings and I don't know anything about Mugen's oils.
  3. Yes thats the exact models I was talking about. I have all of them and have found them to be really good. The TS120/Surpass combo is currently in my 2wd race buggy and it keeps up with the guys running Orion, Fantom etc. The surpass motors are available from a number of places, so have a look at ebay, banggood.com and aliexpress as well to see which is the cheapest. That price looks pretty good though. Those SkyRC TS120 are available from a lot of places too, but that deal with free shipping at RCMart is the cheapest I have found.
  4. You mean your cars don't move like that? I just build to kit specs and mine float on clouds too, honest
  5. Last 8th meet I collected a pin holding the piping down at the end of the straight and almost ripped the hub off. I tried fixing trackside but thought I needed hammer so went home. Turns out I just needed to look properly and loosen the grubs screws (that are everywhere) that was holding the pin in. You only need a hammer when maintenance has been neglected for so long bearings are falling apart and you need to get the inner race bit off the hub. So I have legitamately used a hammer because of the previous owner, but also used them because of my own stupidity. Not sure what that says about me!
  6. I used to get 20,000km (yes, km, you know that metric system that is so logical that other parts of the world use?) on my 'toy' cars like my WRX, VR4 and FXGT track toy but they were also reasonably cheap, as in $200 a corner. I was terrified on my current car as it came on Pirelli P Zeros which are $500 a corner, but they lasted 50,000km. The replacement Bridgestones are supposed to last the same, so it really does appear that yoy get what you pay for. I know taxi drivers who get 100,000km though, but they buy tyres specifically to last a long time
  7. Interesting, I just got 2 new tyres on my wifes car and they put them on the front. FWD, Mitsubishi Mirage, so no real issues with traction or understeer/oversteer since it can't go fast enough to get a speeding ticket. My only experience with this on RC cars is my F1 and over here its definitely sticky rears and hard fronts to control oversteer. Overseas it seems to be different but they run on high grip carpet and use tyre additive so that will mean physics doesn't apply.
  8. I have never kept a kit more than a few weeks before building it, and then it was only because I had bought a couple at the same time so built one first then had to wait til I had the time for the next. I never understood why people would keep them sitting there unbuilt. Things have changed a bit this year though, partly I think because of the new race cars I've bought in the last 12 months (only 2) which have had deadlines to get them built before the next race meet. Building under pressure isn't nearly as fun as building when you want to. Then I bought the Top Force which has been on the radar for a while (you guys never knew though eh, I kept that real quiet) and when I ambushed my wife with it one afternoon she agreed (I have a self-imposed rule about clearing bigger purchases with her, usually around $100 and up) but only if I wait until Christmas. She won that round, last night she said she had my Christmas present sorted but I needed to get her something. She wants a hedge planted, I am going to argue that a hedge means I have to buy the plants, plant it then maintain it for years to come so I should get a Super Astute as well. But I digress. I also bought a bunch of hop-ups which I've never done before (yes, none of you probably realise as I never mention it, but I'm a fan of buying a better kit, say a TA07, rather than a TT02 and spending heaps on hop ups). They've arrived in a few packages and been added to the kit, which has also been a bit of fun. So I now have this Top Force sitting there on my couch which is NIB with a bunch of hop ups and can't be touched (except opening it up and looking at it and stuff) until Christmas (well, mid-Dec as I've negotiated an early Christmas as we are going away). I am actually starting to appreciate having a NIB kit lying around and can understand why you would, especially if you have one already built. This one will get built over summer, but I think it may have influenced me a bit, to buy and hold on for them a bit longer and research some hopups, maybe.
  9. I don't know what a 19x2 would be equivalent to but this may be useful. Silvercan stock classes got replaced by 21.5T onroad and 17.5T offroad. These are also blinky classes so they have no turbo or boost from the ESC. Superstock which was 23T got replaced by 13.5T, again in blinky. Mod is still open, and in offroad people tend to run around 6.5T brushless compared to 10T - 13T brushed, and onroad they can go as low as 4.5T. Around 8.5T - 10.5T would probably be about the same at a guess. The good thing about a sensored brushless setup is you can program the ESC if the car feels too slow. Also make sure the ESC has decent specs, look for something like the SkyRC TS120 as a minimum which is 120amp and can handle low turn motors with turbo and boost, or go for the name brands race spec ESC which tend to be 160amp plus. Then you will need to look at your batteries to make the most of the setup. A NiMH won't be able to deliver the power, so look for a lipo for racing, usually claiming 100C or more discharge rates. I've run a 13.5T with mild ESC settings and on NiMH it was slow. Switching to a decent lipo made a massive difference.
  10. I finally succumbed and ordered Tamiya JIS screwdrivers and got to use them today. I had high expectations, expecting fireworks like when Harry found his wand, or something. They....work....fine...what am I missing? I wonder if my stanley set happen to be JIS or something? They stayed in the screw nicely but they are strongly magnetised so not sure how much impact that had? Maybe I'll notice when i build a kit, only 6 weeks to wait now... Anyway, the GPM servo horn is now on the Monster Beetle which has broken 2 plastic horns in 2 runs, hopefully this one is strong enough to survive a 6yo Also, just watched England put on 241 in 20 overs. Not a great way to spend a Friday evening, unless we chase it down, then it will be one of the best games ever
  11. Interesting, I only checked Futaba sensors and then ended up buying a sanwa radio. The Futaba sensors are about the price of a reciever, but Sanwa are really cheap, good to know. I have a couple of the telemetry recievers to...
  12. The TBLE-02S is rated down to 10.5T brushless but I think it needs a fan for that. I've had no problems with a 13.5T brushless in a Boomerang, it runs really well and the ESC is low in the tub without any airflow to cool it. Its rated down to 25T or Sport Tuned brushed motors, but a friend runs Tamiya Super Stock 23T motors on his with no issues. He's brought his cars over and run them for about an hour without any issues, so I think that the TBLE-02S is fine on those too. I've read that people have run 17T brushed motors with them but that is well out of spec. The Tamiya Super Stock is a very good brushed motor and I've read that they perform as well as the cheaper 17T motors too, but since I don't own any I can't confirm that. I run TBLE-02S in all my basher cars, and either stick with the kit motor for backyard running, or go to a 13.5T brushless if I want to go faster. I like the versatility of them. I'm in the minority though, most on here it seems prefer the HW 1060 with a lower turn brushed motor. I've got a TBLE-02S for my Top Force and will either run the silvercan or one of my spare 17.5T to give it a go at the track.
  13. The fans can be removed (or are usually supplied with the screws to attach them), so don't worry about that. You will need one if you go for a low turn motor or run a lot of turbo and boost, but by then the car will be uncontrollable. If you run a 13.5T or 10.5T with some turbo and boost that SkyRC TS120 shouldn't overheat. The Trackstar may as you're getting closer to its limits at that point. I don't run fans on any of my racecars, but they are all blinky and 17.5T or 21.5T motors. I haven't bought a single brushed motor other than what comes in the kit. Brushless motors are cheap enough, don't require maintenance and if you stay with 13.5T then you can use the TBLE-02S which are often included in kits, or are very cheap on ebay in the UK (I buy mine from UK sellers as its cheaper than buying them over here). I know others swear by the 1060 ESC and lower turn brushed motors though.
  14. I haven't bothered although my Sanwa MT4S can do it. I asked a few people around and they said that it just adds weight to the race cars and no one used it. I then looked at the price of sensored and agreed with them. @ruebiracer hit the nail on the head - it would be useful for keeping an eye on motor temp as even if sensors are expensive a motor is even more expensive...
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