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Jonathon Gillham

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Everything posted by Jonathon Gillham

  1. I don't have any that would make me run out and buy. The one for me was the Boomerang which I got last run, and since then I have all the important ones. If @ThunderDragonCy got his wish for a TA04, would that mean that TA01 - TA08 are all in production(or readily available) at the same time?
  2. Jonathon Gillham


    The TA07 is my favourite onroad chassis and I've been looking forward to seeing an MS built, so this deserves a bump.
  3. It looks like a good deal to me. You might be disappointed with the speed as 3000kv is around sport tuned level, unless you up the gearing. Add the biggest pinion you can fit and it should be a blast
  4. Yes that should go well without needing the high speed gearset as the kit FDR should suit that motor. The kit diffs may last depending how you drive it. Mine get ruined because kids drive them and just stay on the throttle - they can be stuck against a wall at full throttle and don't seem to notice the gears grinding. Landing jumps is another one, let off the throttle as you land. See how it goes, the stock diffs are very cheap its not the end of the world if you ruin one or 2.
  5. First things first. The Neo Scorcher and Plasma Edge II are the same buggy with the difference being the Plasma Edge looks far better, so rule out the Neo Scorcher (I'm joking, but only a bit. The Plasma Edge looks like a 90s buggy and is cool, the Neo Scorcher is a bit pants) I only have the TT02B but also have others to compare, other brand race kits and some rere buggies. The TT02B sits low, is heavy and can't jump very well. The only weak point is the rear diff and you have easy options there. Buy DF02 metal diffs which are a direct drop in and handle much more power, or treat the diffs as disposable (which i do now) as they are cheap enough and my TT02B's are now loaner cars for my sons friends and our neighbours. The DF02 diffs seriously suck power from the kit motor, but are bulletproof. They are a great upgrade to run say 13.5T brushless. Otherwise you just need bearings and you have a decent runner. Don't go crazy on hopups, they are expensive and won't really improve it. Save the money for a better kit. It is fast on tarmac though as its a touring car with longer arms and shocks. The DF03 has to be more capable than a TT02B but parts sound hard to find. I don't have one. If you can find the key parts (a gear, proper diff parts) then it should be bulletproof though, @Wooders28 will know more as his 5S powered DF03 is still alive! I would recommend a DF01 based car, so Top Force, Manta Ray etc. There are heaps of parts available as they share a lot with the TA01/2 as well, so Tamiya and the aftermarket providers are still making them. They handle well and are a proper buggy with good ride height. The TT02B is probably the safer choice just because of parts availability
  6. https://nz.banggood.com/Surpass-Hobby-ROCKET-540-V5R-Sensored-Brushless-Motor-V2-160A-ESC-Combo-for-1-or-10-RC-Vehicles-Car-Parts-p-1906349.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6296638&rmmds=search I got this one as it came with the latest, V5R, motor. There is another combo they have with the V4S motor and its tempting because the ESC's are red. They only come with 10.5T or 8.5T motors which are common here for indoor offroad racing. I don't race those classes but they should be easy to sell on as many do. I already use these motors (but 17.5T and 21.5T) and have been eyeing up the ESC as I've heard really good things, but at NZD200 an ESC its hard to justify just to try them out. However, I have about 8 race cars (my son's an mine, onroad and offroad) so an ESC failure isn't unheard of with that many. If you buy more than one they discount further which is why I got 2, saved another 10%
  7. @Willy iine you make painting those beetles look so easy. I have everything I need to attempt a boxart Sand Scorcher (and the chassis sits on my printer next to my desk and leaks shock oil all over the feeder tray) but everything I think about starting I find an excuse. I only have one more body to paint other than the SS so I am running out of excuses...maybe the second yacht will get electronics installed... Last night ordered 2 ESC/motor combos based on beer-maths. Combos are so cheap right now (half price) that I ordered 2 with the hope that my wife doesn't check the credit card and I can sell the motors which I can't use anyway. If it works out I either get 2 160a Surpass ESC for about NZD50 each (retail NZD200) or my wife finds out and I get 1 for free after selling all the other stuff. Seems too good to be true, but you know, beermaths.
  8. Received a couple of cheap 1060 type brushed ESC's. It seems a lot of people are having problems with Hobbywing and TBLE-02S ESC at the moment (me included) I've got about 5 of these running in cars and they perform well (the brakes are a bit brutal) with no thermalling or anything. They are also about half the price of the HW1060 too, so sharing the link in case it helps anyone. They are from Surpass which I've found to be really good, they make some brilliant brushless motors which keep up with the best from other brands for about 60% of the price. https://nz.banggood.com/60A-ESC-Carbon-Brushed-110-RC-Crawler-Car-Part-p-1229993.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
  9. I can't say about telemetry as its not something I've ever used on mine even though its capable of it and I have some rx which would do it. However, I have tried the DasMikro clone rx which are about US30 on banggood, and probably Aliexpress too. They work fine, i don't notice a difference between them and my Sanwa rx. These appear to be the same me as the ARX and Muchmore ones as well. There is a whole thread on rctech about clone sanwa rx which is worth a read.
  10. My point about the 21.5T is that they are really really slow unless geared properly. So while they can be fast, you'll need extra parts to get the gearing right. I suggested a 13.5T because with stock TT02 gearing it won't be that fast, as once gain you need high gearing for brushless motors. That limit on the ESC seems wrong, its 75amp, that should be fine for 10.5T in an onroad car. 60amp ESC are often rated that low.
  11. But everyone should have experience a TRF car at least once...
  12. I think the D is the best value. As already said, you have to buy something for all of them and in this case its rubber tyres, but you can still use the drift tyres for a laugh. Although the big expense in top of the S is the body which you have. I guess the kit body becomes the basher if you get the D. Do you already have a 21.5T brushless? Don't underestimate how fast they are, they just need gearing properly. You can run an FDR of 3 - 4 for a 21.5T, which i'm pretty sure will require the high speed gearset and Yeah Racing motor mount. If you don't have the motor, consider a 13.5T brushless as that should run well on standard gearing without stressing the motor
  13. You can, but it will be hard to know what you end up with. Its not a linear relationship, eg 10ml of 300 + 10ml of 400 doesn't make 350. They should mix though If you are wanting to play around i remember seeing a kit which was designed to mix your own, but can't find it now. I thought it was made by Yeah Racing but could be wrong
  14. Most of my onroad cars are race cars but we still run them at the local school on the asphalt courts when the mood takes us. This includes a carbon chassis TA07, F103, TRF102 which most people would say should stick to prepared tracks. While they are better on the track, and the stones etc can cause additional wear, they run fine. I've had no problems with stones getting stuck in exposed gears or belts, broken parts from uneven ground etc. So you can run whatever you like the look of. If you wear down a carbon chassis you can get a replacement. The Express cars are a step above any that are mentioned from Tamiya. I don't own one, but a lot at my club race them and they go well and are great quality. The XQ2S is the 10th scale touring car of the same level and similar price to the M sized one you've already seen. People run them in stock classes and they hold their own against carbon cars costing 5 times as much. The only upgrades that you may consider is a set of sway bars for more tuning, but you don't need those. Running a 21.5T or 17.5T (these are the most common stock classes around the world, you'd need to check whats run in your area) sensored brushless motor in one would also allow you to put it on a track and race for fun, and not be held back by the car. So while overkill for just playing around, they are definitely a good option. I think they're an RCMart brand now so spares will be easy to get hold of. The Sakura cars are a similar option to the Express cars, although the ones I've seen at the track break quite often (could be the mod motor in them though). I'd stick to Express. If you get a TT02 or similar, don't spend a lot on upgrades other than the already mentioned bearings and oil shocks. You'll throw so much money at it and still be left with something that isn't a great performer. They are great for what they are, but if you want performance buy something with better performance out of the box (TA, TB, FF series, or another brand). With the TT02 options, none come with everything that you need so you always have to factor in additional expense. The R and S kits don't have a body, the base kit don't have bearings and oil shocks etc. Look at the drift kits. They come with all the upgrades you need (bearings, oil shocks, sport tuned motor) and a body and drift tyres. Buy a set of rubber tyres and new wheels and then you can both drift and race/bash. This isn't the TT02 Type D as thats a chassis kit like the Type S etc, its the TT02D and will come with a body. The other suggestions like FF03 (or TB03 or TA05) are good too. They are older now but a step up from the TT cars, and you can often find a kit with everything in it for a good price. Its a much better base to start from than a TT if you do like modifying them. At the end you'll have something quite decent, rather than a really expensive TT. I often say this though, buy the better kit rather than the cheap one and modify it. I've done that for all of mine with the exception of a TA07Pro. I have modified so much of that I was able to build another TA07 from leftovers. Its cost as much/more (who's counting?!) as if I had just bought a TRF419 to begin with, and now has about the same performance. Best to avoid that path.
  15. I have both SkyRC and HTRC chargers. SkyRC are probably better quality than HTRC but both do the job nicely. The HTRC C240 was a cheap dual charger, been working for coming up 2 years and is my go to since its a dual. It canrun off AC or DC power, 10amp charge rate and 150w on AC power which is plenty. The SkyRC S60 has a lot of features. Its only 60w and max 4s but thats all i use anyway. If I was starting again I would buy the SkyRC Q200 which is a quad. Thats mostly because I always run the cars with my son, and we have 4 channels all up, regulary using 2 at home ajd 3 at the race track. Its more expensive but it can do it all. There is also the D100 which is the dual version of it. The only thing the cheaper chargers are lacking is a decent discharge circuit. Its often on 10w which means it take an age to discharge a battery that you charged but didn't get to use. Its not a major though as 5min in a car will bring a lipo down to a safe storage charge voltage. Note that both these brands are sold under other brands. Hitec are rebranded SkyRC and I've seen a lot that look identical to HTRC and SkyRC but different colours or brand. So chances are you're getting the same charger but paying more from others.
  16. Just beacuse the FDR of 8.33 is too high for a 13.5T motor. Endbell timing is the only tuning really available in this case which isn't ideal as usually you'd set that and leave it. The testing is only to be safe as the gearing will be fine, but timing could be too high, binding in the dtiverain etc. I'm pretty sure the VQS wheels are smaller than modern ones too which means the gearing is effectively lower still One problem with Rere's, the gearing is all wrong for modern electronics.
  17. The oil weights vary by manufacturer. CST is an actual measure so in theory they should be the same across manufacturers. Most work in wt, which is a made up thing and a 30wt from TLR will be different to a 30wt from Ae, so they are only usegul to compare relative to others in the same range. I bought TLR as I was able to get sets for a good price, so now have 12 different weights which is useful. So pick a manufacturer where you can get access to replacements and a whole range of weights to play around. You'll be surprised what you end up using. When I ran Kyosho buggies I used much lighter oil than what I run in my HB, and my Ae is in between them
  18. Go the biggest you can fit. A brushless motor has a lot more torque than brushed, the FDR of 8.33 (I think thats the VQS with w2T pinion) is probably suited to 8.5 - 10.5T motors. Wind the timing up on the can too. Run it for a minute, check its not too hot, then 2 mins, check again. It shoukd be fine though as 8.33 is undergeared for a 13.5T motor. What sized wheels does it have? I'm assuming the smaller Tamiya ones, not the standard modern 2.2"? That lowers the gearing even more
  19. Nice work on the wiring. I am tempted by the XQ10, there are a lot of Express cars at my onroad club as the LHS supplies them. I would go for the XQ10 as it will be cheaper than the XQ2S in the long run. Price wise though, the TRF420 from HK is about NZD850 vs NZD739 for the XQ10, so not a huge difference when comparing like for like. The XQ2S is much cheaper than a TA08 though, and wont need the same hopups so will be far cheaper
  20. I asked this same question a month ago. I needed some for my TA07 and 44mm universals or DCJs work on that. Anyway, I ended up buying these and they fit my TA07 so hopefully are what you're after. Couldn't find Tamiya brand anywhere and didn't want to pay what DCJs cost now https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-g45-steel-44mm-rear-universal-for-3racing-sakura-d5-skd5-007bk-00106824
  21. If anyone is interested, the aluminum spur adaptor is in stock here and ships worldwide (well, to New Zealand and Wales, I assume the countries in between too which is pretty much all of them) https://www.rcnz.com/categories/car-accessories/tamiya-ff-03-chassis-parts/tamiya-ff-03-aluminium-spur-gear-mount/ My question about swaybars was missed (or maybe ignored as no one knows the answer?) but will the FF03 swaybars fit the FF04? I can't find the XV01 set and the FF04 only comes with rear ones. Its so strange for what is in theory a TRF level kit, its missing aluminum suspension blocks and front swaybars.
  22. I have the Arrowmax purple and after 4 years need a replacement tip on the 2mm. It was worth spending the extra for them. Hudy/MIP are the gold standard, but if you buy Arrowmax they are decent and then replace the tips with Hudy if/when you wear them out. I got a starter set with 1.5/2/2 ball/2.5mm driver plus a 7mm nut driver for reasonable money. Have added others too and they all match (which is important). They are the most popular I've seen at the clubs I go to. On topic now, the TD2 looks good to me, not sure if I will buy one as i have enough buggies (is that a thing?) and would rather add some onroad cars before more buggies.
  23. The club I race at has used it. When it was used on its own as a lane marker it was ok but F1 cars could get tangled in it. Now they used it under the half round pipes on the long section of track and it keeps it together well. For what you're doing it should work well. Touring cars should just slide along it and just don't crash if you run F1
  24. I suspect the DCJ would solve it. My FF04 came with them, but I did swap my TA07 to DCJ and it did resolve the chatter up front. I run a spool now, but there is less chatter with a spool and DCJ than it was with universals and front diff. Unfortunately for you, they have doubled in price in the last year...
  25. Does anyone know if the FF03 swaybars will fit the FF04? I assume that the XV01 set is the one I need but thats out of stock every time I look. I have found FF03 locally at a decent price shipped, so if that fits then I'll order them
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