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Jonathon Gillham

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Everything posted by Jonathon Gillham

  1. My RCMart order from 8th December finally arrived. The alloy lower gearbox mount for the Top Force so i can finally fix that. And some random bits, m3 washers, bearings etc too. That took far longer than expected, not sure whats happening with SF Express, Banggood is really quick atm
  2. Yes I agree, all my race cars have bearings in the steering. The argument I've heard against it is that they don't rotate fully so you don't need bearings, but I don't agree and used them. Look at the manual for those 730s though, they have no rotation in them at all so I think the bushings are better.
  3. I didn't replace all those 730 bushings. They are in the arms, keeping the shafts tight. I don't think they need to be bearings, and bushings are probably better than bearings The ones I was meaning were the 850s in the steering setup. I replaced them but some people say then that the bushings are better
  4. I notice it on my 4wd buggy, its faster the first half of the race and thats with a pretty new Gens Ace Redline 6000mah 130C shorty, so there isn't really anything better available. I got the same with Orion batteries too, but only in the 4wd buggy which has aggressive gearing and timing. The 2wd doesn't suffer from it. Thats why touring car racers will buy 8000mah batteries so they don't lose punch towards the end of the race. Its not such an issue with mod racing as the cars are overpowered anyway, but is for stock classes. The only thing that I know you can do is buy bigger capacity batteries and charge between runs.
  5. Where are you based? I'm pretty sure the Top Force kit comes with one on the parts tree, if it does then I should have one unused. But I'm in New Zealand... Otherwise most of the DF01 models will use them, Dirt Thrasher, Terra Conquere, Blazing Star should all have them?
  6. I think the VQS are the period correct hop up. These are the same as the Egress shocks I think. I went with Top Force hi caps and a Dyna Storm tower from fibrelyte, just cos I like the look and the VQS shocks hadn't been released. Personally these are the best options for the period correct look. From memory the DF03 shocks are the official hop up which would be great just not look as good. It comes with adjustable links but not turnbuckles. I swapped the upper arms and steering tie rods to turnbucklss but didn't bother with the single link on the steering setup. It is fully ball raced but I swapped 850 bearings into the steering setup. It comes with bushings, which probably work fine and I did see some debate about bearings vs bushings. Gears. I swapped out the mod .5 spur and pinion for Team Associated B4 48p spur and 48p pinion. You need to buy slipper pads too. I bought 2 spurs, one for 23T Super Stock (or 10.5T brushless), the other for a 17.5T brushless so I can run either. Its a simple swap and worthwhile as .5 mod gears are impossibke to find. Think thats it. It has been really robust with my son driving in a small (big by UK standards, small by rural Australia or US standards but no alligators/crocs/snakes or scary spiders) backyard track with a super stock. The only thing is, it doesn't take a silver can, or I've done something wrong. It needs quite a long motor shaft, so the Super Stock is the only motor that fits for me (or brushless) Also, I got the decals all wrong
  7. Welcome back, the Boomerang is a great car. I buy quite a bit from rcmart, search for Boomerang, Hotshot etc. Tyres and wheels are available as new parts since it was rereleased a few years ago. https://www.rcmart.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=Boomerang Bearings, they replace the brass and plastic bushings. I think the Boomer takes 1150 and 850 bearings. You can buy a set or buy packs of them. I just buy packs of Yeah Racing bearings in both metal and rubbed shielded as they are pretty cheap (USD4 for 10 bearings) and spares are useful. 1150 = 5mm internal diamter, 11mm outside diameter and the ones you need are 4mm thick. 850 = 5mm x 8mm x 2.5mm (I think the 2.5mm is right) Check the manual for how many of each https://www.rcmart.com/RC-Car-Bearings/RC-Metric-Bearings I woukd replace the manual speed controller with an ESC, and the old radio gear with modern 2.4GHz gear. Look at the Hobbywing 1060, a great ESC for brushed motors at a good price. This ESC will happily run the Super Stock motors whuch are great. Your car will probably be slower in a straight line than the Frog because 2wd vs 4wd. Just make sure you race him on loose dirt. The servo may work fine with a new radio, or you may need to replace it too. For not much money you can get much better than what is in it. The old servos are around 3kg torque and.2sec speed. For about USD15 you can get 10kg torque and .1sec speed with full metal gears. Radio gear ranges from USD30 to USD500. Flysky is cheap, Sanwa and Futaba are much better but you get what you pay for. Wheels and tyres. You can buy 12mm hex adapters which are a direct fit and then buy modern wheels and tyres, or just buy new Boomerang ones, up to you. These would work https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-alloy-wheel-washer-set-thick-5mm-bu-for-1-10-rc-touring-drift-crawler-wa-015bu-00027206
  8. The HTRC C240 is an inexpensive dual charger that works well. I got one from Banggood a year ago now and it has worked great. SkyRC D100 is also amgood option but more expensive. If you don't want a dual charger then they make them in a single version too, the only issue with the SkyRC S60 is its limited to 4S lipo (thats usually plenty) but the balance plug is also smaller as a result, so I had to cut one down.
  9. I would get a sensored system, and that car coukd handle a reasonably low turn motor if you want. I would look at 8.5T or 10.5T though, and gear it properly. This is always a good option and has plenty of headroom for any motor you choose https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl120-sensored/rc-car-products/425021 As for motor, my current preferred brand is Surpass. I have the Surpass Rocket V4S or V5R in a few of my race cars, but the older models are fantastic bang for buck. Banggood sell them for about US35 and they would be perfect for bashing. Any motor will be fine though if you're not racing, buy your preferred brand of sensored motor
  10. I was interested in the FF cars since seeing a FF01 Mondeo racing against the 4wd cars back in the 90s and doing pretty well. Local clubs are also adopting a frontie class, its not FF because the conversioms are allowed with mid motor and belts running to the front wheels. It looks really fun. I have taken it to the track and it ran really well. Basically kit setup and it was really neutral and easy to drive. Of course that could all change when I'm driving in anger (not that I get angry racing toy cars, cos, you know, toys, but you know) I went for the FF04 Evo because it comes with everything except the alloy suspension blocks, but the hopups end up costing a fortune if you bought a stock FF03 and brought it up to Evo spec.
  11. Spent the whole weekend at the track. The shop I buy a lot of my offroad gear from hired the club track for 2 days, test and tune kind of thing. Ran about 25 tanks in my HB D817, good times. New track layout and I haven't run that car for a year. Got my times down from 47sec laps to 41sec and a lot more consistent through a combination of better setup and practice. Still a long way to go to get to the a main when the season starts. My son loved it and wants an 8th e-Buggy now and is working on my wife. If he gets one then I can go to all the 8th scale meets...
  12. Its not a case of overkill, its whether you want to spend the money on them. I would, but look for Yeah Racing and just get ones that work, not worry about the size so much (obviously you need the same FF FR and RF and RR matched to get the right toe in) as its much cheaper that way. Since swapping them into my TA07 i've had no slop or need of shims, they make a massive difference.
  13. A big difference between 10th scale and 1:1 (1th?) is that you can easily overpower a 10th scale car, so drivetrain loss etc is removed from the equation. Slower on the straight? Go from 5.5T to 4.5T or turn up boost. A 2wd mod car will probably run 8.5T - 10.5T depending on grip. A 4wd mod car will run 5.5T - 8.5T depending on grip. Then you have the ESC programming to add in, so 4wd will always be faster in 10th scale. However, 1989 4wd vs 2020 2wd is an interesting one...
  14. I thought it was better to use the box as art than throw it out? They take up a lot of space otherwise...
  15. The Manta Ray should be a good performer. I have a Top Force set up for the same thing, just in a silvercan class. From what I've read the motor mount and prop shaft are the only essential upgrades. I would get those and just run it like that to start. It would probably be worth looking at replacing the upper arms with turnbuckles so you can easily adjust camber (its cheap if you buy Yeah Racing etc) and steering rods too for toe adjustment. I would also try and stay in the slowest class, its just as fun but you will break a lot less.
  16. Most batteries (and clubs where I race) say charging is capped at 1C. I always charge at 1C anyway as its generally accepted as safe for the gear and not going to cause problems, even though some of my batteries can handle upto 5C. Its probably safe charging at 2C but who knows. I don't actually know what would happen if you charge a NiMH too fast.
  17. I copied @Re-Bugged and have very similar pictures. They aren't cheap when you need a box and then to pay for framing...or do you mean print the picture and then frame it, not use the box?
  18. Don't rule out Futaba yet. Clone/generic/compatible receivers exist and they work well. I have a couple of different clones and they work well. Banggood sell them (search futaba FHSS) and they are less than half the price of a Futaba rx. I have 7 sets of radio gear, 3 are Flysky and they're fine, but the ones I prefer to use are Futaba and Sanwa. You really do get what you pay for. Also, you will have the radio gear for a long time. If you are committed to the hobby then consider the Futaba 4PM or Sanwa MTS (you can get clone Sanwa receivers too). Also, one reason i have 7 sets is buying wrong the 1st time...
  19. Does the Fighting Buggy count as a 'proper' SRB? As in, if someone (a *cough* friend, honest) had never had an SRB and likes the Buggy Champ best but sees the attraction of the Sand Scorcher was looking for a proper SRB and not worried about performance (lets face it, they don't, I, er, my friend, has modern race buggies for that) but something for the shelf with some gentle running, would you advise to get the Fighting Buggy?
  20. Have you seen this thread? I don't have a DT03 but would expect there to be a Tamiya option that could be made to work. The aluminium shocks all seem to be a similar (expensive) price, so TRF or not won't make much difference. The DF03 shocks are often suggested as an upgrade for Tamiya buggies, thats what I'd look at first. The CVA dampers are actually pretty good and probably perform better than cheap alloy shocks, although I've heard good things about Yeah Racing as a bang for buck upgrade. I don't think I would replace tamiya oil filled shocks with them but would definitely look at those for a kit that came with friction dampers.
  21. My offroad club runs both 8th and 10th scale and the track is big and dirt. I think a 17.5T blinky 4wd buggy would be about 40 - 45secs, 2wd 45 - 50secs. 4wd mod about 38secs, nitro 8th buggy low 30s (for the fast guys, we get a lot of the top NZ drivers come along). I'm vague on the numbers as racing was interrupted a lot last year and the track was just rebuilt in December for a big meet and I've only run once on it. Will know better after the weekend as we're due to spend the weekend there. My onroad club (and the indoor offroad club uses the same venue) runs in an indoor sports arena, using 2 indoor cricket pitches/netball courts for a track. They run 13 - 17secs per lap depending on class. Offroad is similar as they just add a few jumps but will be essentially the same layouts. My backyard track is about 12secs (Top Force on a good day) but really about 14secs consistently, or 18secs for people who don't race it often or in a Lunchbox. Its about 14m x 8m I think (from memory, it was a few years ago when I measured it) with quite a long straight as it has an easy curve (around the lemon tree). We have jumps made of plywood which we sometimes use. Those stock spec tend to lighten the drivetrain a lot, hollow shafts, thinner gears etc too and so some of that weight reduction is taken from rotating mass to reduce loss of power from the (relatively) low power 17.5T motors. I used to run a slipper eliminator on a Kyosho RB6.6 but was faster with the slipper. I'm also faster with a centre gear diff than a slipper in 4wd. a 200g weight saving will make a difference, but for most people that advantage will be offset by their first crash! Its true that more weight at the back is better for low grip, but there is the caveat now that means a 4 gear standup provides the most rear grip as no one makes rear motor anymore. Then 3 gear standup, then 3 gear laydown gives the most steering. The Kyosho RB6.6 had all 4 options (incl rear motor), but the RB7 only comes with the laydown transmission. You can convert it to rear motor with 6.6 parts. The trend is definitely towards more weight up front, and the change between front or rear bias is moving the motor by about 25mm. Funny that a guy 2 seasons ago used to be a mid-pack racer (front sometimes, he's a good driver but not taking it as seriously now) with an RC10 Worlds rere. Rear motor. He said that the new Yokomo he bought gained him 2secs a lap over the RC10 Worlds. Doesn't seem a huge amount for 30 years development! But then we run low grip dirt, which is what the RC10 Worlds was designed for.
  22. Sorry I meant that anything that is measured in CST (like Tamiya and Kyosho) should be consistent across different brands, so a 400CST Tamiya will (should) be the same as 400CST Kyosho. WT is a manufacturers own measure, so a 25WT Losi will be different to a 25WT Associated oil, and you need to convert to CST to see which one is lighter/heavier. WT is only useful if you are comparing within the brand, so you know that 25WT Losi oil is lighter than 30WT Losi oil, but 25WT Losi oil may be lighter or heavier than 30WT Associated oil. I have these 2 packs giving me a full range of Losi oil from 17.5wt - 45wt. The price has gone up since I got them though! https://www.rchobbies.co.nz/team-losi-tlr74019-certified-silicone-shock-oil-6-pack-2oz-17-5-22-5-27-5-32-5-37-5-42-5wt/ https://www.rchobbies.co.nz/team-losi-tlr74020-certified-silicone-shock-oil-6-pack-2oz-20-25-30-35-40-45wt/
  23. Interesting thread. One thing I would say is, on low grip surfaces 4wd is far faster than 2wd. We see this at our club days where 4wd times are signifcantly faster than 2wd. 2wd mod and stock times are essentially the same, and 4wd stock is much faster than either. When we run our cars in our backyard track (its roughly the same size as yours) the race cars have no advantage over a box stock Boomerang, and while they are a lot faster on 17.5T brushless(properly geared with motor fans for heat) and 2s, they dont have any real advantage over a silvercan on NiMH as the track is too small to take advantage of the speed. 2wd tend to be slower as they don't steer as well (I think that is actually too much rear grip and needing weights on the front. We run dirt tyres which grip really well in grass so the nose can lift). I don't change the setup as they are setup for our clubs track. We run Ae B6D (4 gear standup) and HB D413/8, and a mix of rere.
  24. CST is an actuak measure so if you find them rated in that then it should be consistent across brands. I say should, can never be sure about these things. WT is a made up measurement and a lot of manufacturers use it, but they're all different, so only useful if you know whcih brand it is, or to compare relative wt within a brand. Its best to buy shock oils from 1 brand and stick to it. I bought Losi oil as I got a 6 pack for about NZD30 which had a whole range. Then another 6 pack with the rest of them. When I was trying to find a range I usually couldn't find someone with the whole range in stock, and they can often be $12 a bottle which adds up quick. I would stick to a known brand for shock oil, mostly because they should remain consistent over time. If you get a brand like Trackstar the oil will be fine, but the 25wt oil you buy this year maybe different to the 25wt oil next year. That probably isn't a problem though for bashing(or even racing,it will be close enough).
  25. @Carmine A I would say the aluminum suspension blocks are one of the essential upgrades. When I had the plastic ones in my TA07 it developed slop after the first race meet, I shimmed it then it had more slop after the next race meet etc. You don't need to buy Tamiya ones, I bought Yeah Racing for US1.99 per piece for my FF04, except for 1 Tamiya one which cost more than the other 3 just to get the right size. The Yeah Racing ones appear to be just as good as the Tamiya ones. You also need the balls to go in them, there may be some on the parts tree, but its worth looking at the steel or coated ones when you order the blocks as to me the plastic ones may not last that long.
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