wilysloth

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About wilysloth

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  1. wilysloth

    Vintage servo is now reversed mystery

    But only if the transmitter was modded to reverse left/right. Unfortunately, it no longer works so I can't test. It still seems unlikely though, in my case, that the transmitter was internally modded (and the left/right gymbal faceplate hasn't been rotated 180° as the trim adjust still sits below the stick) so I'm still scratching my head.
  2. wilysloth

    Vintage servo is now reversed mystery

    Aha, that might explain it then.
  3. wilysloth

    Vintage servo is now reversed mystery

    The Blackfoot was built for me all that time ago so it is certainly possible. But doesn't that imply that the steering servo in a stock Blackfoot is backwards? I.e. The Blackfoot would be incompatible with a transmitter without servo reversing (as a software option, hardware switch or hardware modification). I can't find that mentioned anywhere in the Tamiya manual and it would seem an odd design decision for Tamiya (given a lot of the beginner transmitters of the era didn't easily support it). Do all servos rotate the same way on a "right" signal? Anti-clockwise when mounted spline side up as seemly required by the Blackfoot?
  4. In the process of returning my vintage Blackfoot to running order I have encountered a mystery. Back in the day my Blackfoot steering was set up as follows: Acoms AP227 Mk3 Techniplus transmitter. Acoms receiver (I don't have the model number to hand). Acoms IC AS-7 servo. The steering worked correctly. Fast forward to now. The Acoms transmitter is no longer in working order so has been replaced with a Core RC Code 2.4G FHSS 2 Stick 3Ch transmitter (CR151) and a Core RC Code 2.4GHz FHSS receiver (CR152). The Acoms servo remains. The Blackfoot was completely disassembled and reassembled according to the manual and the servo is in the same position/orientation. However, the steering is backwards (left is right and right is left). I have reserved the steering in the new transmitter but how did it ever work before? Was there a way it could have been reversed in the old set up? Or do old receivers simply work backwards? The Acoms AP227 does not have servo reversing (from what I can see). The one extra wrinkle was that the old Acoms servo leads did not fit into my new receiver so I made adapters like so. My understanding is that if I had got the cables mixed up then the servo would either fail to work or simply fail, not reverse itself. The throttle servo, via MSC, is working as intended. Any insight is much appreciated.
  5. I still haven't got round to replacing my motor yet as I need to restore the old hardbody shell first - something I have been putting off. I need to crack on with it this year.
  6. Thank you to everyone who has shared their experience. I have been doing a fair amount of reading on motor timing and found the following guide very informative: Motor Timing: Theory I think I will be going with the Tamiya 54612 TBLM-02S 15.5T brushless motor and will report back once it (and the MIP differential) has been fitted (either in this thread or a build thread).
  7. I have considered a Speed Passion or HobbyWing 13.5T or 17.5T but for this car at least I want it all to match.
  8. This particular Blackfoot is a vintage one from when I was little and has needed a complete strip down to become run-able again. In its current form I have been keen to avoid replacing any non-broken parts (so the TBLE-02 ESC mentioned above is actually still NIP as the MSC is still attached) lest the restoration makes this not "my" Blackfoot. My plan is to run it in its original state for a while before incrementally upgrading it. I have an MIP differential for just one such upgrade.
  9. I would like to increase my run times on my Blackfoot and gain a slight boost in acceleration and top speed over the silver-can motor in the process. I am running a Tamiya TBLE-02 ESC and would prefer not to run a fan. I am aware I can get a better performing non-Tamiya motor/ESC combo for less money but I want to stay all Tamiya. Besides, given the weaknesses in the ORV's drivetrain I'm not after a big performance boost, ideally equivalent to what I believe a Tamiya Sport-Tuned brushed motor would deliver. I think these are my options: Number Descr. Type RPM Timing KV 54272 TBLM-01S 10.5T Sensored Brushless 24264 Fixed 3370 54273 TBLM-01S 12.5T Sensored Brushless 20160 Fixed 2800 54274 TBLM-01S 14.5T Sensored Brushless 17640 Fixed 2450 54611 TBLM-02S 10.5T Sensored Brushless 24264 Adjustable 3370 54612 TBLM-02S 15.5T Sensored Brushless 16560 Adjustable 2300 My Blackfoot is run hard on grass, mud and tarmac so I believe both 10.5T motors are out as they will require a fan (and will be much too "hot" anyway). Of the remaining three, I was leaning towards the TBLM-02S 15.5T (54612) but would like to ensure it will give me a performance boost over the silver-can. If not, then which one of the TBLM-01S motors (12.5T or 14.5T) would be the better fit? Will the Fixed vs Adjustable Timing make a difference for my application? I don't yet understand what Timing refers to in this context. Can anyone help here? Finally, will I need to change my pinion? With the increased torque from a brushless motor, move up from 10 teeth to 11 or 12?
  10. wilysloth

    Blackfoot body repair advice sought

    Thank you for the detailed responses. WillyChang, I have some EMA Plastic Weld Cement which I guess is similar to Bondene PlastiWeld. So my current plan is to: Clamp the shell shut such that the crack closes up. Apply some plastic weld to repair the crack. Cut and plastic weld some plastic card (0.25mm styrenne sheet sound okay?) under the crack and the enlarged body post hole. Where there were missing material gaps in the crack above the new plastic sheet, melt some plastic card shavings using plastic weld in the hole(s). Cut a circular piece of plastic card to fit the enlarged body post hole, hole punch an internal hole into it to fit the body post, and plastic weld that to the new plastic card welded to the underside of the bonnet/hood (filling any gaps as above). Sand down the new plastic when dry. I intend to run it hard so additional aluminium strengthening under the new plastic work is probably a good idea too.
  11. I am currently returning my vintage Blackfoot to running order and would like to keep as much original as I can, mostly for sentimental reasons. I need some advice on how best to repair the hard body shell making as few non-reversible changes as possible. In my youth the front body post clip broke off and was fixed by putting a screw down through the body post. Over time the hole in the body shell widened and is now larger than the new post I ordered. Furthermore there is a crack running front to back in the middle of the bonnet/hood. My plan was to use plastic weld to fix the crack but don't know how to make the hole for the body post smaller. Plastic weld a plastic washer in there or something? Basically I don't have any experience in this regard so any ideas would be very welcome.
  12. wilysloth

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Tamiya Avante 2011 (58489) High Capacity Dampers Front and Rear (84300/84301) Racing Steering Set (84256) Torque Splitter set (84257)
  13. wilysloth

    Screw Kits

    This might be of interest: http://www.rcscrewz.com/product_info.php/p/tam077-tamiya-manta-ray-stainless-steel-screw/products_id/2822?osCsid=48d6b4e3202cde8c6e39792662da571e
  14. wilysloth

    WTB Blackfoot CRP 1628 Upper Chassis Support System

    I'm still interested in finding a CRP #1628.
  15. wilysloth

    Monster Beetle re-release #58618

    Do you know where the bushings go on the CRP 1606?