Kalameja

I'll post for sure when done. In the meantime.... I'll be asking around for who in my network of friends knows a machinist. If I could even find someone that could machine down the inside of the aluminum hub (the 5 starred he part) by a 1/4 inch, that would suffice and I could use the original axles and lock nuts.

I'll give them a try for sure. Are there not longer axles out there?

For $6 I'll give them a try!

They do have rear adapters as well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/REAR-WHEEL-ADAPTER-Tamiya-Blackfoot-Tire-to-Futaba-FX-10-Tyre-RC-Team-CRP-1565/352952016081?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225085%26meid%3De600192435754afa813400b7634b0d2a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D352999084969%26itm%3D352952016081%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 For $6 i'll give them a try!

I need a shallow version of one of these that will work with the 5 star coupling on the aluminum wheel. Both of these are too deep. Or i need a slightly longer axle to accommodate.

Thanks but it's not the nut that is too deep. I can get a lock nut on. The problem is that it won't bottom out to the end of the threads on the axle. So the nut eventually will be spun off by the wheel while running it.

Hello Again! New Sand Scorcher is coming along fantastically. So glad to get this build together. I have an issue with finding the right rear wheel hubs to run the Sand Blaster tires with a one piece aluminum wheel. All of the adaptors I have found are too thick and don't allow the lock nut for the axle to grab all of the threads to keep the wheel on. Suggestions for the correct fit?

I'm using the Brat/FAV/RR tires on a set off one piece alloy rims. They look great but the rear tires continually slide off the rims. I'm also using RZ motor which rips! That could have something to do with it.I tried some clear silicone but that didn't hold. What is everyone else's experience with this issue? Super glue perhaps for a tighter firmer seal?

I love the rear shock set up! The eyelits really made installation a breeze. Thanks for the suggestion for the shocks, super cheap and work great! Looking forward to the independent rear suspension mods you're working on. I think I'll build a Super Champ in the meantime. Gotta round out the arsenal. Maybe even a Sand scorcher.

So I just put an RZ into a new Hornet build. Is it normal for the RZ not to spin freely like a 540 does? It seems to click and step and not roll smoothly. So when connected to the transmission it seems to stop the gears and wheels and not flow smoothly. Is this normal?

I think it my just be the higher torque motor that I'm using for the first time. And perhaps that I think the gears I received, even though they are correct for The Hornet, I don't think they are original Tamiya parts. Not as precise as my original set. Ive tried the new Tamiya Super Stock RZ motor on each of my two Hornet transmission, one old and one new. The motor seems to make both louder. Although the newer transmission is still a little louder than the old with the new RZ motor.

So my new Hornet is together and read for a run. However, the transmission foes not sound right. Something has to be rubbing. After inspecting it looks like to me that the "small bevel gears" are sliding up and down the their shafts and hitting the inside of the "differential spur gear". Everything test well but when you slap the motor on the transmission is definitely making a sound it shouldn't it does not have that characteristic Tamiya Hornet sound . I ordered all from eBay, is it possible I have the wrong gears? They look the same as my other hornet. Not it sure what's going on. Anyone experience to much play with the spur diff and bevel gears? Ek

The larger Brat style wheels add tons of ground clearance.

That's a wrap.